Insects attack fruit trees every summer. One of the most common pests is aphids, which settle on the underside of the leaf. You need to know if aphids appear on a plum tree, what to treat with and what preventive measures to take to preserve the plant.

Aphids are the most common pest of plums.

Varieties of aphids

Aphids on a fruit tree can be seen if you carefully examine the leaves from the inside. A small insect, about 2 mm long, feeds on the juices of leaves and shoots. There are several types of aphids that settle on fruit trees.

• The roseate green aphid on plums has a green color, an oval body and brownish antennae. Eats absolutely all types of fruit trees and some artisanal crops: roses, currants, rose hips.
• The green apple aphid has a green oval body. The head is light brown. The female aphid may have a black tummy, tail and legs.
• The large peach aphid is gray-brown in color. The body is round, the whiskers are black, up to 5 mm in size. Individuals of peach aphids come with and without wings. This species is capable of causing fungal infections on the leaves.
• The appearance of orange aphids is dangerous due to their omnivorous nature. The insect eats all the plants in the garden. It is very small, about 2 mm, so it is almost invisible. Color yellow and green.
• Mealy aphid is a small pest that settles not only on fruit trees, but also on indoor plants. A distinctive feature is the presence of small bristles on the body and a white coating. The appearance of such aphids leads to leaf fall and trunk deformation.

Signs of aphids on plums

The insect settles on leaves and shoots, eating them and causing deformities. Aphids eat most crops growing in the garden by sucking the juices from them.

The pest population is growing rapidly; a female aphid produces up to 20 offspring in 3 months, and she can give birth to aphids that can immediately lay eggs. Individuals quickly adapt to new conditions, therefore, if it is necessary to develop new areas in the garden, winged bugs are born that can fly to another place.

The insect can attract other pests. They eat the juice secreted by aphids and protect them from ladybugs.

Signs of the presence of aphids on trees:

• rolling leaves into a tube;
• yellowing and drying of the leaf;
• drying of shoots, deformation of bark and leaves;
• the presence of a sticky whitish coating;
• ant invasion on a plant.

Means for treating plums against aphids

A pesticide against aphids on plum trees during flowering and fruiting is not used due to the risk of poisoning pollinating insects. It is important to follow all safety rules when working with pesticides and strictly follow the proposed instructions. It is best to fight aphids in the spring or autumn, in the spring with the onset of a thaw, and in the fall after the leaves fall.

Chemicals are sprayed only in clear and windless weather. When working with chemicals, protective clothing and a respirator are required. The procedure is carried out early in the morning or late in the evening.

Effective insecticide

"Aktara"

The use of the drug "Aktara" will effectively rid fruit trees of pests. Treatment is carried out 2 times, with an interval of 7 days. After spraying, within 30 minutes the insects lose their appetite and die.

The drug is diluted at the rate of 2.5 ml per 10 liters of water. Spraying is carried out once a day. "Aktara" has a third class of danger, is almost harmless to birds and poisons pollinators.

"Commander"

Protects plants from aphids, whiteflies, and Colorado potato beetles. Available in the form of a soluble concentrate for systemic action. Effectively fights against adults and their offspring, providing long-term action.

Resistant to weather conditions, does not require reapplication after rain. Dilute 2 ml of “Commander” in 10 liters of water.

"Spark"

Excellent for spraying fruit trees, shrubs and indoor plants. Available in tablet form.

Preparation of the solution: dissolve the tablet in a liter of water at room temperature, strain through cheesecloth. Add water to get 5 liters of the drug. Re-treatment with the drug is required after 3 weeks.

A chemical that, upon contact with, causes the insect to become poisoned throughout the entire body.

1 ml of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Acts instantly, peak concentration occurs after 2 hours. Maintains effectiveness for 4 weeks. If you use the drug as intended and dilute it in the correct proportions, then there will be no risk of crop poisoning.

Fast acting insect repellent

"Fufanon"

An effective enteric-contact insecticide that protects fruit trees from aphids and other pests. It has a third hazard class, is moderately dangerous for animals and dangerous for bees.

The solution is prepared in the proportion of 2 ml:1.5 l of water. Three consecutive treatments are required with a one-week break.

Folk remedies

Folk remedies for aphids on plums will help get rid of the harmful beetle without the use of chemicals. It is worth considering that fighting aphids on plums using traditional methods can only help at the initial stage of the invasion. Treatment should occur regularly; do not wait for new insects to appear.

Folk remedies are effective if used every week. This schedule will help get rid of the pest for a long time. Treatment should be carried out for all plants growing near the plum. Otherwise, aphids will multiply on weeds and sooner or later attack the fruit tree.

Soap solution

Fighting aphids with a soap solution is effective and safe. To prepare the soap solution you will need:

• 300 g tar or laundry soap;
• 10 liters of water;
• 250 g wood ash.

You need to grind the soap on a coarse grater so that it dissolves better in water. Boil water and cool to 70 °C, then add grated soap and wood ash, stirring until completely dissolved. Spray all trees and shrubs in the garden, carry out the procedure 2 times a week. Treatment is carried out in the morning so that the sun does not burn the foliage on the trees.

A decoction of onion peels is a natural remedy for aphids

Folk remedies allow you to fight aphids on your site at no extra cost. A decoction of onion and garlic peels is an excellent remedy in the fight against harmful insects. To prepare the decoction you will need:

• 250 g onion peel;
• 10 liters of water;
• 10 g of soap (added as desired to better fix the decoction on the leaves).

To prepare the decoction, boil water and add onion leaves, then stir in the ground soap. Leave the brew for three days, then strain through cheesecloth.

Treat fruit trees and adjacent plants twice a day until the aphids on the leaves completely disappear. Spraying should be done in the morning and evening, avoiding strong sunshine. Treatment with onion water can be carried out during fruiting and flowering.

Tobacco infusion

Aphids are perfectly repelled by the smell of tobacco. You can treat a tree with tobacco infusion at any period of plant development. Due to its environmental friendliness, the infusion will not harm the yield. To prepare tobacco infusion, you will need:

• 500 g tobacco;
• 10 liters of water;
• 300 g of soap.

Boil water and add crushed tobacco. Leave the bucket with the mixture to sit for 48 hours, then strain and add soap. Spray the plum in the morning for three days.

Soap combined with ammonia allows for better contact with leaves

Ammonia solution

Ammonia will help get rid of the invasion of such harmful insects as green aphids. To prepare the solution you will need:

• 10-15 ml of ammonia;
• 20 ml soap;
• 10 liters of water.

Add ammonia and soap to warm water. Leave to brew for 2 hours. Spray the leaves and branches of the plum tree.

Fighting ants

The main task is to poison aphids. To completely overcome the consequences of an insect invasion, you need to deal with ants that feed on the juice secreted by aphids. Ants' access to the top of the tree should be limited. To do this, put a catching belt on the trunk to prevent insects from rising. The belt is attached at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground.

If there is an anthill next to a tree, it must be destroyed in one of the following ways:

• Dig up the anthill, throwing the soil in different directions. Throw the larvae out of the garden.
• Pour boiling water over the anthill. Insects, sensing danger, will leave it.

Prevention

The fight against aphids includes preventive measures. If the plum tree has been attacked by an insect in the summer, it will require pesticide treatment in the fall. This will prevent aphids and their offspring from overwintering on the tree. It is possible to use the “Commander” and “Aktara” means.

"Commander" is suitable for use in wet weather. The solution is prepared in a ratio of 2 ml:10 l. "Aktara" is diluted in a ratio of 2.5 ml:10 l.

In addition to chemical treatment, a number of preventive measures are required:

• trim dry branches, collect fallen leaves;
• paint the trunk with lime;
• Treat cuts and broken areas with garden varnish.

Conclusion

There are many ways to get rid of aphids on plums: traditional and chemical. Pesticide treatment is used as a last resort and with great care so as not to poison beneficial insects. Folk remedies can be used at any period of plant development, without harm to the environment; they are also used for preventive purposes.

The plum aphid is considered the most dangerous insect pest of plants, literally drinking “all the juices” from them. The small size (up to 5 mm) of a representative of the order Hemiptera can mislead those who have not seen the scale of the disaster caused by hordes of aphids in their plum trees. These are diseased, twisted leaves literally strewn with small insects. Failure to take proper control measures threatens not only crop loss, but also the death of fruit garden crops.

Omnivorous insect

Aphids have chosen not only plums. All stone fruit crops (except cherries) are subject to its invasion. But the most famous situation is when the plum blossomed and was completely covered with aphids. The sugary coating on which ants crawl is also dangerous for the plant. This is a ready-made “soil” for the development of sooty fungus, viruses, and bacteria. Microscopic organisms give fruits, leaves, and stems an unpresentable black color.

In addition to being voracious, aphids are also extremely prolific. Starting in early spring, when the first greenery blooms on the trees, new populations of the pest appear every one and a half to two weeks. It is not difficult to recognize: the pale green, yellow, light brown, or pink color of the back is broken along by three dark stripes. The strength to grow and multiply is given by sap flow in plants. With a large population, when there is a shortage of life-giving food, hemipteran individuals begin to appear. They migrate well, flying from tree to tree. They leave their offspring on them up to 2 dozen times per season. On social networks, on forums, some gardeners give advice, others are looking for an answer to the question: aphids on plums - how to fight? We offer the most proven methods for your reference.

Preliminary measures

• In early spring and late autumn, all loose bark and broken branches are removed. Damaged areas and the trunk are whitened with lime. Clutches of eggs that are preparing to spend the winter are destroyed, and the possibility of new deposits is prevented.
• It is quite possible to influence the population size in another way. Do not overdry the soil. Mulch it. The birth rate will decrease significantly if you use a complex remedy for aphids on plums as a top dressing: dilute potassium sulfate (3 tablespoons) in water (a bucket).
• The space under the crown near the drains should always remain clean and free of weeds.
• In order not to attract aphids, there is no need to plant viburnum and linden near trees. But dill, parsley, cilantro, parsnips, coriander - sharp-smelling herbs - are desirable “neighbors” of stone fruits.

Interesting. Treating plums against aphids in the spring with diesel fuel is a long-time proven method. It is not used in its pure form. An aqueous solution is used for spraying even before buds appear on the branches.

• The first individuals that appear are washed off with water from a hose under pressure.
• Deformed and twisted leaves are immediately torn off and destroyed.

Saving "chemistry"

Poisonous preparations for aphids on plums differ in their mode of action.

• Contact action. Fury, Karbofos, Arrivo, Fufan. Infection occurs through the upper body shell when the poison comes into contact with an insect. You can spray the plum after flowering against aphids again with compounds containing copper: Decis, Karbofos.
• System. . The reagent penetrates into the sap through the upper integument of the plant, leading to the death of the insects that feed on it. Does not wash off when it rains.
• Intestinal mode of infection. , BI-58 New. Defeat and death are immediate as soon as the poison enters the digestive tract.
• You can also treat plums against aphids in the spring with biological products based on microorganisms: Akarin, Fitoverm. Eco-friendly for humans, bees and animals.

But if the trees bear fruit and aphids appear on the plum, how to treat it in the summer? Drug 30 is effective. It differs in the principle of action from conventional “chemistry”. When treated with “thirty”, a special thin cover is formed on the surface of the bark. The aphid caught under it does not receive air and moisture in the required quantities for life, which leads to its death.

The productivity of any drug decreases significantly if it is used constantly. To prevent aphids from becoming accustomed to the reagents, they must be changed periodically. No later than two decades before harvesting, all chemical spraying is stopped.

Attention! Aphids on plum trees are not poisoned during flowering. Otherwise, you can kill bees, drones, and other beneficial insects that pollinate the inflorescences.

Without resorting to radical methods

And if insecticides cannot be used, but aphids appear on the plum: how to fight with natural methods? Experienced gardeners attract a natural enemy to the garden - the ladybug. To do this, plant a flower - calendula - in the beds and between the trees. But ants - carriers of aphids - should not be welcomed into the garden or vegetable garden. To prevent them from getting on the tree, the trunk is wrapped with burlap, corrugated cardboard, treated with insect glue or grease.

Plums should be sprayed against aphids with solutions and infusions of plants containing insecticidal components: tobacco, marigolds, tomato and potato tops, garlic, yarrow, dandelions, etc. The crops have repellent properties and impart an unpleasant smell and taste to young leaves for aphids.

Nettle infusions and “milkshakes” are used against aphids

The most effective folk remedies for aphids on plums are:

• Cow's milk (1 l) is diluted with water in a volume of 7-10 l. You can immediately carry out processing.
• Tobacco leaves or waste, shag, grind into dust. Add hydrated lime or ash (wood ash) to it in equal proportions.
• You can treat plums against aphids after flowering (two weeks later) with a saturated soap solution, provided that the initial treatment was carried out with the same composition, but only before the inflorescences bloomed. For these purposes, not only laundry soap, but also green liquid soap is used.
• Fill the onion peel (glass) with warm water (bucket). Leave to infuse for 5 days, then strain and process.
• Chop the garlic cloves. Pour half a kilogram of raw material with water (3 l). Leave in a dark place for 5-6 days. The concentrated solution is not used, but before spraying is diluted in the following proportion: 60 g per 10 liters of water. For better fixation on foliage and wood, crushed soap is added to it (preferably laundry soap 50 g).
• If a plum is attacked by aphids, starlings, titmice and other birds that have settled in the garden in bird houses made for them can become a salvation.
• An aqueous infusion of fresh shoots of celandine, potato tops and tomatoes is kept for 3 days, after which the crops are treated with it.
• You can use nettle (1000 g of raw material per 10 liters of water for 3 days).
• Laundry soap against aphids is used in the form of a soap solution or emulsion. Take half a glass of kerosene, a quarter of a piece of laundry soap and 10 liters of hot water. All components are mixed until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
• Pour 0.3 kg of horse sorrel roots with water (10 l), bring to a boil. Leave for 4 hours.
• Many gardeners try to spray the plum after flowering against aphids with a low concentration of urea. A week after the end of the process, a solution of water (10 l) and 50 g of urea is used.

In the fight against aphids, the main thing is not to miss the moment of their appearance. To do this, it is necessary to conduct daily inspections of trees, respond to the first signs of pests, and know the list of aphid preparations and methods of applying them.

Many gardeners have often encountered the fact that the leaves of fruit trees (apple, pear, peach, plum, cherry, cherry) curl, which is why the upper shoots cannot grow and develop normally, and then the overall yield ultimately decreases. This means that aphids, a microscopically small, seemingly touchingly defenseless pest that feeds on plant sap, have “worked” here.

How to get rid of aphids on apple trees and other fruit trees will be discussed in our article.

What is the danger of aphids for fruit trees: signs of damage

When a fruit tree is overpowered by aphids, its leaves begin to curl, which in turn negatively affects the shoots and the future formation of flower buds. The fact is that the processes of photosynthesis in such branches are disrupted, as a result the plant ceases to receive normal nutrition.

Interesting! The leaves acquire this shape because aphids inject a special substance into them. Because of this, they curl up and form a kind of house, thereby protecting itself (the aphid) from other insect pests that may be nearby.

As a rule, aphids appear first on young shoots, from which it is easiest to extract juice, the small pest usually does not sit on old ones.

As you know, ants are considered forest orderlies, but at the same time they are real pests of the garden and vegetable garden. It is they, as a rule, who carry aphids to fruit trees and then protect them, since they love to feed on their carbohydrate secretions—sweet honeydew.

A capacious quote and a revealing thing! “An aphid is a cow ant.”

Advice! Therefore, if you decide to fight aphids, at the same time you need take measures to rid your garden of ants which are described in detail

Video: aphids on plums - characteristic signs of damage

Important! Aphids, as a rule, are species-specific, that is, there are apple-cereal aphids, apple-plantain aphids, peach aphids, plum aphids, cherry aphids, pear aphids, and so on. But the ways to deal with it are the same.

How to treat fruit trees against aphids: chemical, biological and folk remedies for pest control

When you spray a tree, you must try get inside the curled leaves, where, in fact, the aphids are located. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out the treatment with gloves, with which you will unwrap the infected leaves during the spraying process.

Concerning optimal timing for treating fruit trees against aphids, then it’s best to have time to do it before buds open or after that, since during flowering you can harm pollinating insects (bees, bumblebees). Of course, you may have to spray and in summer (during the growing season of fruit ripening). The fight against aphids can also be continued in the fall, after harvest.

Chemicals

If you decide to treat fruit trees against aphids using chemicals, then it is better to use enteric-contact chemicals, preferably systemic ones, which penetrate inside the plant and concentrate at the growth points, in other words, at the tops of the shoots, where the aphids sit.

Please note! The life and development cycle of aphids is about 3 weeks. New offspring can easily adapt to the chemical, so It is not recommended to use the same drug, i.e. use products with different active ingredients.

Such systemic chemical agents against aphids and other harmful insects include (the active substance, method of penetration, and chemical class of the agent are indicated in brackets):

Important! Before using any of the drugs, be sure to read its instructions to make correct concentration of working solution.

There are also non-systemic chemical insecticides:

• Aliot (Malathion (Karbofos), enteric contact, class Organophosphorus compounds (OPS);

• Neofral (Alpha-cypermethrin , enteric contact, Pyrethroid class);
• Kinmiks (Beta-cypermethrin, enteric contact, Pyrethroid class);

• Decis Profi (Deltamethrin , enteric contact, Pyrethroid class).

By the way! From overwintering stages of pests The drug has proven itself well 30 Plus(Vaseline oil, contact action, mineral oil class) and Preventative(Vaseline oil and Malathion (Karbofos), enteric-contact action, class mineral oils + organophosphorus compounds (OPS).

Biological drugs

Despite the fact that biological drugs are usually contact, their action does not cause any problems (they are harmless) and the waiting period for some of them can be reduced to 2-5 days.

The following biological insecticides against aphids and other insects have long gained popularity among summer residents (the active substance, method of penetration, and chemical class of the product are indicated in brackets):

Fitoverm, Aktofit = complete analogues, with the same active ingredient.

• Spark BIO (Avertin N, enteric insecticide, Avermectin class + biological pesticides);

• Bitoxibacillin (Bacillus thuringiensis var. thuringiensis, intestinal pesticide, class bacterial insecticides + biological pesticides);

• Tobacco dust (Nicotine , enteric contact action, class plant insecticides).

Video: how to fight aphids on an apple tree

Folk remedies against aphids

Ammonia

Perhaps the most popular and truly folk remedy for combating aphids on apple trees is ammonia.

In order to prepare a solution for spraying, you will need to mix:

The cooking process itself is as follows: grate the laundry soap, then dissolve it in a small amount of hot water, pour it into a common container and add ammonia. Carry out the treatment, and repeat again after a week.

Usually, the smell of ammonia will disappear in about a week, so if aphids are constantly come back , the processing will have to be repeated again and again.

Note! This solution can be sprayed when fruits or berries are almost ripe. In addition, ammonia is an excellent nitrogen fertilizer for plants.

Video: how to get rid of aphids on an apple tree using ammonia solution

Naturally, not only the apple tree, but also any fruit trees, and shrubs (), vegetables () You can spray aphids with ammonia. For example, the same cherries that the summer resident does in the next video, having prepared a less concentrated solution, namely taking 40 ml of ammonia per 10 liters of water, as well as 2-3 tablespoons of liquid laundry soap.

Video: ammonia is a super remedy for aphids on trees

Laundry soap

To combat aphids, you can simply use a solution of laundry soap, although, according to gardeners, tar soap, which has a stronger odor, helps better.

Infusions and decoctions of pungent and odorous herbs

Decoctions and infusions from, namely those that have a very pungent odor, will help repel aphids from your trees. For example, it could be yarrow, wormwood, St. John's wort.

Advice! Actually you can cook the same infusions and decoctions that will help get rid of aphids on currants and gooseberries, described

Hunting belt against aphids on trees

It is not necessary to fight aphids only by spraying; there is a fairly simple but very effective way to protect fruit trees from aphids.

Even in early spring, put a hunting belt on the trunk and you will forget about aphids for the whole season: ants (the main carriers of aphids) simply will not be able to climb the tree.

Such a hunting belt can be bought ready-made or made independently, with your own hands.

By the way! Many gardeners use regular Velcro (adhesive tape) for flies, wrapping it around the tree.

What you will need if you want to make it yourself:

• a small (2-3 cm wide) rubber strip the diameter of a tree trunk;
• another thinner elastic band to secure the main one;
• gel against ants (for example, Adamant, Proshka Domovoy, Taratsid, etc.)

Step-by-step instructions for creating an ant trap belt:

1. Take 2 rubber bands and secure the wide one tightly with the narrow one on the trunk so that the ants cannot crawl under the rubber band and climb further up the trunk.
2. Lubricate the belt with a special gel while wearing gloves.

Video: how to make a trapping belt for aphids on fruit trees with your own hands

A very effective belt made offluffy padding polyester. No ant can pass such an obstacle.

Using special glue against rodents and pests, you can also create a barrier, similar to a hunting belt, on the trunk of a fruit tree.

In this case, you can first wrap the barrel with masking tape or the same rubber band.

The glue itself lasts about 1.5 months, and it does not lose its properties even after rain (it does not wash off), although it is better to renew it a couple of times during the summer (after all, insects and other debris constantly stick to it).

Important! It is recommended to carry out all work with glue for the hunting belt with gloves, since the substance is very sticky and it is inconvenient to wash it off.

Video: how to get rid of aphids on a drain using insect and rodent repellent glue

Interesting! Ants are very cunning insects. They can easily crawl along the backs of stuck brothers, so to be on the safe side, after some distance, it is better to make another belt or a sticky barrier.

Natural (biological) enemies of aphids

Can help you fight aphids ladybug, which loves to eat it for breakfast, including its larvae.

Interesting to know! They also prefer aphids lacewings, ground beetles, hoverflies, predatory bugs, wasps, sparrows, kinglets, warblers, tits and other flying insects and birds.

Mechanicalways to combat aphids

Of course, you can try to knock down, or rather wash away, the aphids with a powerful stream of water. But you will not destroy all the aphids on the trees in this way: a little later they will return again.

Have aphids settled on your property and are taking over more and more areas? Don't be discouraged and give up. There are many effective ways to combat it. Use them regularly, and the attack will surely subside.

Video: folk methods of getting rid of aphids on fruit trees (pear, plum, apple)

In contact with

The first mass appearance of pests in the garden is observed in late spring and the first half of summer. Why are aphids on plum trees dangerous? How can you fight these insects without endangering the future harvest?

Plum pollinated aphid and other varieties

In nature, there are many types of aphids, which to one degree or another harm gardening and garden plants. For plums, cherries, cherry plums, cherries, peaches and other stone fruits, one of the most dangerous pests is the pollinated plum aphid.

Small grayish-green insects settle on leaf and flower buds, on young growth and the back side of already opened leaves. During mass infection, these parts of the plant are completely hidden under a layer of pests and dead whitish scales. Feeding on the juices of the most tender greens, aphids cause:

• weakening of shoots, which become desirable prey for other pests and suffer more than others from lack of nutrition and drying cold;
• deformation of young leaves taking the shape of a spoon or boat;
• massive damage to fruit plants by sooty fungus and pathogens;
• early fall of leaves and poor preparation of trees for wintering;
• reduction in yield this and next season.

While the warm period lasts, pollinated plum aphids can produce ten generations. At the same time, insect eggs wait out the winter not only in cracks in the bark, but also on nearby grasses, preferring cereals and reeds.

Green aphids on plums become noticeable when the number of insects is critical. But it is much easier to detect the black, cherry variety, which does not disdain other types of stone fruit crops. This pest, which produces up to 14 generations, is no less dangerous. Defeat by it leads to complete curling of the tops of young shoots, cessation of their growth and development of foliage.

Aphids of all types are dangerous because they can spread quickly. Winged individuals migrate independently, while wingless ones are carried from plant to plant by ants, literally grazing aphids in the hunt for the sweet secretion of insects.

The defeat of a garden by this soft-bodied pest can lead to weakening of trees and loss of crops. How to fight aphids on plums? When and what measures should be taken to maximize the effect?

The best and most stable results can only be achieved by an integrated approach, including preventive work to protect the garden, adherence to agricultural practices and regular treatments not only of plums, but also near growing crops.

Chemicals for aphids on plums

Aphids that feed on plant juices are easily destroyed by modern insecticides. The category of products intended to combat aphids is called aphicides and includes the following drugs:

• affecting pests upon contact with the treated surface;
• penetrating inside with cell sap;
• acting systemically and giving a long-lasting effect.

Commercially available formulations are available, can be used to destroy other enemies of plums, and are highly soluble in water, which simplifies and reduces the cost of processing.

It is not surprising that when answering the question: “What to do with aphids on plum trees?”, many experienced gardeners speak without a shadow of a doubt about the need for urgent spraying. There's really no point in delaying.

Without human intervention, aphids will take over the young part of the crown in a matter of days. But neglect of safety rules and failure to comply with processing times threatens not only a danger to plants, but also harm to human health.

Chemical insecticides are the only correct solution in case of massive damage to plants, as well as in spring and autumn, when insects are not yet species. The choice of a specific drug depends on the degree of damage to the garden, the presence of other insects on the branches, the time when aphids are noticed and the preferences of the gardener himself. Before going to the drain, you need to remember that improper use of insecticides threatens:

• burns of the green parts of plants;
• falling of flowers and ovaries;
• accumulation of chemicals in fruits;
• damage to the skin, rhenium and respiratory organs of humans.

Therefore, no matter what remedy he uses for aphids on plums, he must strictly follow the instructions, not forgetting about personal safety.

Features of processing plums from green aphids

The fight against aphids is carried out in several stages. If there are no insects on the trees, or individual insects are found, it is not worth spraying with chemicals. Aphids, especially on small seedlings, are easily destroyed manually or with folk remedies using plant infusions, soap or ash solutions.

A gardener who knows how to treat aphids on plums needs to know at what time it is best to schedule such treatment:

1. The first time the procedure is carried out in early spring before the buds open. At this time it is impossible to see insects. But if they covered the shoots in abundance last season, there is a high probability that there are aphid eggs near the buds and under the crown.
2. Fruit trees are re-treated at the green cone stage. At this moment, there is a high probability of destruction of the already hatched larvae, which quickly form multimillion-dollar colonies.
3. If in the spring measures to combat plum aphids were not taken or did not give the desired result, it is possible to spray the blooming garden when the flowers are just opening and have almost completely fallen.

In order not to risk your own health, synthetic preparations are used at least 30 days before harvesting. When the fruits are already filling and the degree of damage is small, it is better to use safe traditional methods of pest control.

In the fall, after harvesting the fruits, the last treatment of the year is carried out using ready-made insecticides or a 5% urea solution, which is not only effective against black and green aphids on plums, but also protects trees from scab.

Trees should be sprayed in dry, windless weather, preferably in the morning or evening hours, when the risk of sunburn of wet foliage is minimal. When irrigating, special attention is paid to young shoots and the back side of the leaves, as well as to the trunk circles.

How to get rid of aphids on plums using folk remedies

Before the ovary forms, neither folk remedies nor chemical insecticides cause harm. How to treat plums against aphids after flowering? An excellent alternative is proven folk remedies based on herbal infusions, soap-ash and other solutions.

To prepare soap-ash liquid you will need:

• 400 grams of sifted wood ash:
• 50 grams of liquid or laundry soap;
• 10 liters of water.

Before use, the solution, effective against moderate pest infestation, is carefully filtered. Tobacco infusion mixed with soapy water will bring no less benefit. Instead of ash, you can take 10 ml of birch tar. This oily odorous substance repels insects and also has a pronounced antibacterial effect. Fumigation of plantings with tobacco smoke gives good results.

Many plants contain substances that have a similar effect on garden pests as industrial insecticides. At the same time, they are safe for humans and the environment. How to get rid of aphids using plants?

To prepare such folk remedies for 10 liters of water, according to the gardener’s choice, you will need:

• 200 grams of garlic cloves;
• 300 grams of onions;
• 1 kg of herbal raw materials based on pharmaceutical chamomile or;
• 4 kg of fresh tomato or potato tops;
• 100 grams of hot capsicum;
• 1 kg of yarrow, tansy or wormwood herb.

About 10 liters of infusion are consumed for an adult fruit tree. Severely affected shoots should not just be sprayed, but should be immersed as much as possible in liquid so that it penetrates into the deformations formed by plum aphids pollinated.

Preventive measures to combat plum aphids

Since the pest migrates easily and multiplies quickly, before treating aphids on a plum with folk remedies or insecticides, it is worth paying attention to:

• fighting ants;
• correct and regular pruning of the crown;
• maintaining tree trunk health;
• digging and mulching tree trunks;
• elimination of weeds and root growth.

There are other ways to make the habitat of insects on the site uncomfortable.

The pollinated plum aphid pests not only stone fruit crops, but also reeds, wild cereals and other plants. The insect is especially attracted to peas and beans, young shoots and nasturtium, petunia, small-leaved and cultivated large-leaved. These plants are planted away from plums and other fruit trees. If this is not possible, then they are sprayed together with stone fruit crops.

Among the inhabitants of the garden there are also green repellents that repel aphids. For the most part, these are essential oil plants, which include mint and basil, lavender and lemon balm, cilantro and unpretentious marigolds. Umbrella garden plants, for example, carrots, fennel, dill and other spicy-tasting herbs perfectly attract predator insects, for which green aphids on plums are a desired delicacy.

The invasion of aphids scares novice gardeners in large numbers. However, if agricultural practices are followed, the trees are kept clean, and they are processed in a timely manner, insects, whose numbers are easy to control, cease to be a serious threat.

Fighting aphids on plants - video

This pest first attacks the leaves and then attacks the green fruit petioles. Because of this, the tree grows poorly, and the amount of harvest decreases sharply. That's bad! But on the other hand, it’s scary to apply chemicals to already formed fruits, or even flowers, because it can end up on your table... What to do?

The main “bell” will be the ants scurrying along the trunk. And in general, if you see an anthill in the garden not far from the trees, this is a bad sign: small, hard-working insects will infect all the trees surrounding their home with aphids.

Examine the tree. And not cursorily and superficially, but very carefully, because if the black aphid is clearly visible on the leaves and young green shoots, then the green one, thanks to its natural “camouflage,” can easily hide from the “punishing eye of justice.” Turn over each suspicious leaf - the pest may be hiding underneath.

If the leaves begin to curl into a tube or ball, this is the most alarming sign: the tree is very seriously infected and needs to be treated urgently.

What kind of aphid tastes plum leaves?

Most often, pollinated plum aphids settle on these trees. These “bugs” have a greenish color and grayish backs, sometimes even wings. They are very prolific: they give birth up to 10 times per season. Thanks to their wings, as well as their light weight (they are easily lifted by the wind), aphids are able to fly from tree to tree, so if one of your plums is infected, this does not mean that the rest are safe.

In autumn, aphids lay eggs, hiding them on shoots near the buds. They winter well even at temperatures of minus 20 degrees, and when the spring sun warms the air to 10 degrees, they hatch - just with the growth of the first leaves, their main food. These pests live off the sap of the leaves.

Aphids secrete a sticky liquid - honeydew. Ants simply adore her. In search of honeydew, ants climb trunks and carry aphids to the anthill, as well as to other trees.

When should you start the fight?

Experienced gardeners know: it’s worth watching trees all year round. But it’s worth starting to fight aphids in early spring, when the sap begins to actively move in the tree. If you treat the tree at this particular time, the young trees that have just hatched from the “winter” eggs will not have time to lay new eggs, so you will have time to stop the appearance of a pest colony.

You can treat a tree with folk remedies at any time, even during flowering or fruiting.

As for chemicals, it is recommended to spray the tree with them only in early spring (before flowers appear), as well as in early summer (when flowering has ended). Insecticides are such a quick method that many people buy them without hesitation. But remember: this toxic substance remains on the tree for up to 20 days. So you need to treat plums with insecticides long before harvesting. But it’s even better to take a 30-day break, and only then eat processed fruits.

Purchased methods of controlling aphids

Trees should only be treated with such substances in the evening or in the morning. However, if the day is cloudy, spraying can be done in the middle of the day. And if weather forecasters promise rain, it is better to postpone the “procedure”, because precipitation will wash the substance off the leaves and it will not act as it should.

The most popular insecticides (chemistry):

• "Aktara". Kills both aphids and their larvae. It finally kills the colony within 24 hours, after which it acts as a preventative for another month (if it rains infrequently).
• "Biotlin." Starts working within 3-4 hours after spraying. Aphids do not get used to this product, so it can be applied not only once, but also twice or thrice a season.
• "Commander". Kills everything: insects, larvae, eggs. Aphids don't get used to it. This product is almost not afraid of rain, but still works more accurately in hot weather.
• "Inta-Vir". Not suitable for prophylaxis. You can remember this product a maximum of 3 times during the season.

“Softer” biological drugs

If the plums are already large and have even begun to turn blue (yellow), it is better to apply biological substances - they are less toxic, so plums can be eaten 5 days after treatment.

The most successful “plum” preparations are: “Aktofit”, “Akarin”, “Fitoverm”.

Important: all these substances must be diluted before use.

Features of the action of biological products:

• the aphid dies after a few days (from 2 to 7),
• for the substance to work properly, a certain temperature is needed (all information is in the instructions),
• they are good for prevention or at the first appearance of aphids, but if you have an impressive colony (or several), the biological product may not completely cope.

Traditional methods

These remedies are good when the pests have not yet had time to seriously multiply. And you need to apply them immediately as soon as you see curled leaves or even a couple of crawling “dots”. Another important point in applying natural preparations is regularity. It is best to treat plums (as well as all neighboring trees) once every week.

• Soap solution. Soap can be tar, green or laundry. For 1 bucket of hot water, take a 100-gram bar of laundry soap, 250 ml of green soap, or 300 g of tar soap. You can strengthen this product with wood ash (200 g for the same bucket).
• Onion (garlic) infusion. Add 100 g of any of these vegetables to a bucket of hot water. Forget about the water for 3 days, and then strain it and spray the tree. Before processing, you can grate a little soap, any kind, here (on an old kitchen grater).
• Tobacco. The pest hates him! Finely chop 0.5 kg of tobacco (you can grow it on your own plot, buy snuff at the store, or just collect a jar of cigarette butts), pour 10 liters of hot water, let it brew for 48 hours. Strain, add soap (liquid is better, it will disperse more easily in a cold solution), and you can pour the “fragrant” water into the sprayer.
• Infusion of nightshades. Collect stepsons of celandine, tomatoes, potato leaves. Fill with water for 3 days, add a little soap or a tablespoon of washing powder.
• Destruction of an anthill, if there is one nearby. There is no way without this, because no matter how much you spray the trees, these little hooligans will again cause aphids. First, dig out the anthill down to the larvae, and then pour boiling water into the “ruins.”
• "Trapper Belt" This is another measure against ants. 30 cm from the ground, the tree trunk should be loosely tied with a cloth that you soak with long-drying glue. Don’t forget to remove this “sling” only later.

Preventive measures

After the summer fight against aphids in the autumn months, when the plums have already been picked and the leaves have fallen, treat the trees with pesticides that will destroy the eggs of the pests. A good example: the same “Aktara” or “Commander” (the second remedy will work better than the first if it constantly rains in the fall). In the spring, carry out another spraying as soon as the leaves appear (but do not delay - the appearance of flowers is already a contraindication to the application of these insecticides).

Do you want no chemicals? Strip the tree of old bark, and then whitewash it thoroughly, using garden paint. And besides, do not forget to rake away the fallen leaves and burn them.

In addition to all the methods listed above, there is one more popular trick. True, it applies only to young, thin and “ringing”, recently planted plum trees (as well as other stone fruit trees). No capital investment or hard work required, just a little bit of tinkering and ingenuity. Are you intrigued? In this case, watch this video: