Adaptation into Russian - BigMichael © 2008

Setting

This manual contains step-by-step tuning procedures for optimum performance and accuracy of your bow and arrow. It also includes tips on setting up equipment and offers solutions to most bow setup problems.

Introduction

Successful tuning can only be achieved through the use of properly sized arrows. The best place to start is with tubes recommended by one of Easton's tube selection charts or one of Easton's computer programs such as Arrow Flight Simulator or Shaft Selector Plus. The final fit is achieved through a tuning process. Any problems due to incorrectly sized tubes become apparent during the tuning process. Make sure the tubes are straight, properly feathered, and have properly installed shanks before you begin tuning.

Choose your shooting style

This guide walks you through the setup process for the three most popular types of shooting:

• recurve bow, finger release (RP)
• compound bow, finger release (BP)
• compound bow, release release (BR)

Note that some bow tuning techniques apply to all types, while others apply to only one or two. When various setup procedures require certain settings, find the settings you need in the appropriate section and follow the specific instructions.

Install all accessories

Before starting any tuning procedure, make sure that all accessories are installed on the bow, i.e. the correct string, sight, stabilizers, shelf, plunger, etc. In other words, install all the accessories you will be using while shooting. Any adjustments made to the bow or changes to bow components may affect the performance of your equipment. During setup it is very important to change only one variable at a time!

presetting

The first phase in achieving properly configured hardware is to preconfigure it. If the initial setup is done correctly, bow setup can be quite simple. By following the guidelines for preparing your equipment beforehand, you will be able to eliminate most of the possible anomalies that can lead to tuning problems, including false tuning indications. For example, you may think that the socket is in an overestimated position, while the problem is actually in poor ground clearance.

Set the nest

Install a movable socket on the bowstring. Clip-on fasteners are ideal. First, place the socket on the string about 1/2″ (1.3 cm) above the perpendicular for RP and BP and about 1/4″ above the ruler (0.63 cm) for BR.

See Fig. 1.

Find the centers of the shoulders

In order to determine the reference point from which the horizontal position of the arrow on the bow will be adjusted, it is necessary to find and accurately mark the center of the shoulders on a recurve bow, or what is called the "proportional center of the shoulders" on a compound bow.

recurve bows

To find the center of a limb on a recurve bow, stick a piece of tape across the entire width of the inside of each limb a few inches from the handle. With a thin marker, make a vertical mark exactly in the center of each shoulder.

compound bows

To find the proportional center of the limb for pre-setting your compound bow, stick a piece of tape across the entire width of the inside of each limb a few inches from the grip. Accurately measure the shoulder width (using a ruler) and make a very small mark exactly in the center of each shoulder. Then measure 3/16″ (4.8 mm.) to the left of this mark (for right-handers) and make a large vertical mark. (Left-handers place the larger mark 3/16″ (4.8mm) to the right of the center mark.) This second mark will be used to center the boom. (See Fig. 2.) This procedure is done in order to compensate for the amount of displacement of the wheel or block eccentric from the actual center of the shoulder. 3/16″ (4.8mm) is the average offset for most compound bows and does not need to be accurately measured in the pre-setting phase because you will find the true proportional center of the shoulder while fine-tuning.

"Centering" the arrow

The purpose of arrow centering is to place it on the "theoretical" or "proportional" center of the bow arm. In reality, there are two points of the arrow that must be centered on the bow in direct reference to the target. Releasing the bowstring with your fingers creates a horizontal bow of the arrow. Releasing the bowstring by mechanical release, on the contrary, entails vertical bending of the arrow. As a consequence, boom locations must be different for each type of release. A description of the settings for these positions follows.

Adjustment of the horizontal position of the boom

Adjusting the horizontal position of the plunger or extension of the shelf is done so that the tip (center) of the arrow is correctly located depending on the type of equipment you use.

Finger release (RP, BP)

Position the arrowhead 1/16″ - 1/8″ (1.6 - 3.2 mm) or less outward from the bowstring correctly centered according to Fig. 7. The arrowhead is positioned slightly outward from the bowstring to compensate for the length of stroke of the plunger or “antennae” of the shelf at the moment the arrow is released. See Fig. 4.

With a finger release, the arrow bends horizontally, first in the direction of the bow, then in the opposite direction, which leads to the descent of the arrow from the shelf. In the next bending sequence, the arrow shank is separated from the bowstring. Further, the arrow flies, freely oscillating all the way to the target. As the arrow moves away from the bow, the amount of oscillation decreases.

Mechanical release (BR)

Align the tip exactly in the center of the bowstring. See Fig. 5. The axis of the arrow must be in a straight line with the string aligned with the proportional center of the shoulders. See fig. 7.

When a release is used, the arrow bends more vertically than horizontally. Therefore, it is not necessary to compensate for the compression of the flange or plunger. To determine the best arrow position that will allow the intersection points to be in a straight line with the target, follow the instructions in the Fine and Micro Adjustment section on pages 12-14. The diagram in fig. 7 shows the correct arrow position for your type of shooting.

Head setting (recurve and compound bow)

Proper landing arm position is critical to good boom clearance.

Finger release (RP, BP)

Most shelf adjustments are achieved by adjusting the boom support arm. If this adjustment is possible on the shelf you are using, the arm should be adjusted so that it does not protrude beyond the dimensions of the boom when viewed from above. See fig. 8.

Mechanical release (CR)

On the launcher-type legs, commonly used on powered-release compound bows, make sure the launcher is narrow enough that the two lower empennages pass through the leg without touching anything. See fig. 9. This is very important for archers using a mechanical release, because the arrow is supported by a shelf all the way forward. For thinner composite aluminium/carbon and carbon tubes with smaller spacing between the two feathers, the width of the launcher blade needs to be significantly reduced.

Setting up External Components (BR)

If using carbon tubes with shanks that fit over the tube, the socket must be raised slightly so that the shank does not touch the ledge. The diameter of the shank on such arrows is much larger than the diameter of the tube. The slightly raised socket lifts the arrow off the shelf and prevents it from touching, which solves the clearance problem.

Clickers attached to the handle (RP, BP)

For clicker shooters, make sure the arrow is well supported on the shelf and not moved just by being held by the clicker. It is important to draw the bow a few times without a clicker to make sure the arrow moves and rests on the shelf without lateral movement, much less falling off it.

Front sight alignment

First, set the front sight of your scope exactly on the axis of the arrow.

Plunger installation

The plunger is not always used. Some archers use only a shelf, no plunger. For example, many athletes use the Springy rest, and some traditionalists use other types of bars that do not have side pressure settings. If your plunger allows it, set its spring rate to the middle position.

Setting the bow base (recurve bows)

All bows are different, even the same model. Therefore, it is important to find a bow base that suits your specific bow and type of shooting. Shoot a few arrows with a minimum base, then remove the string from the bow, twist it 3-4 turns and shoot again. Continue this process until you feel that the bow is at its softest and quietest when shooting. If the string is too short for the minimum base, try a slightly longer string. If the string is too long for the maximum base of the bow (and starts to twist into knots with too many turns), try a slightly shorter string. There are many bowstring manufacturers who can make a bowstring exactly to your specifications, including length, type of material, type and color of wraps, etc.

The base of the bow indicates the point at which the arrow separates from the string, as well as the amount of deflection of the arrow at the moment of separation. The best base for your recurve or compound bow will be the one that best matches the position from which the arrow is released at the end of the stroke. Determining the best base for your bow can greatly improve accuracy and uniformity.

Setting the bow base (compound bows)

The base of the bow is set by the manufacturer. Sometimes changing the bow base up or down improves arrow flight and accuracy. This can be achieved by changing the length of the string, as described for recurve bows. Remember, however, that changing the base of a compound bow affects the length and draw force of the bow.

The force with which the shank is held on the bowstring

The force required to separate the shank from the string is very critical, especially for low draw bows (30 pounds or less). The shank should sit tight enough on the string to support the weight of the arrow hanging vertically from the string (the shank is in the socket). To test this, hang an arrow on the string by the shank and flick the string sharply with your finger 1-2″ (2.5-5cm) from the shank. The arrow should separate from the bowstring. If it doesn't, the shank may be too tight for target shooting. For hunting applications, a slightly tighter fit of the shank on the bowstring is preferable.

Standard Setting Methods

Now that you have completed the preliminary adjustments, you can begin the tuning process. Four tuning methods are described (pp. 4 to 14): zeroing in with bare arrows, paper test, short range tuning, and broadhead tuning.

Shooting with unfeathered arrows (Finger release - RP, BP)

Zeroing in with unfletched arrows is useful for determining if the arrow tubes are properly selected. If the horizontal oscillation setting described in the "Horizontal oscillation" section does not help to achieve accuracy with unfletched arrows as close to fletched as possible, then stiffer or softer tubes should be selected (depending on where the arrows hit). Arrows that don't fly well and don't pack well are usually prone to the following problems:

1. They can fly with vertical oscillations ("dolphin").
2. They can fly with horizontal vibrations ("fish").
3. They can come off the bow, touching something, after detaching from the bowstring.
4. They can fly with small fluctuations. This is a separate problem with clearance.

Vertical oscillation

It is important to eliminate vertical oscillations first. If an arrow separates from a string with a too high or too low tang, a movement known as "dolphin" occurs. Vertical vibrations are the result of an incorrect nest position. To fix this, use zeroing in with unfeathered arrows. Fire at least three fletched arrow shots from 15 to 20 yards (or meters). Then fire two shots with unfletched arrows at the same aiming point. When you get close to fletched arrow hits at 20 yards (or meters), try the same at 25-30 yards (or meters) for more fine tuning.

If the fletched arrows come in higher than the fletched ones, move the socket up a bit until both the fletched and unfletched arrows arrive at the same vertical level. See fig. 10.

If the unfletched arrows arrive lower than the fletched arrows, move the socket down until the unfletched arrows arrive at the same vertical level (or slightly below) as the fletched ones. fletched arrows and making socket adjustments until both fletched and unfletched arrows come at the same vertical level.

Sometimes it is desirable for unfletched arrows to come just below the fletched ones. Unfeathered arrows that came higher than feathered arrows indicate the low location of the nest. If the socket is too low, it can cause the arrow fletching to touch the ledge, creating ground clearance problems.

Horizontal vibrations

If the arrow flies out of the bow, swinging the back part from side to side, the so-called "fish" movement occurs. The back of the boom moves from side to side during the flight of the boom. See fig. 11. To eliminate horizontal oscillations, use zeroing with unfeathered arrows. Fire 3 shots with fletched arrows from 15 to 20 yards (or meters) and then fire two unfletched arrows without changing the point of aim.

If unfeathered arrows come to the left (hard) of fletched arrows fired at the same aiming point, as seen in fig. 11 (for right-handed archers), then reduce the spring rate of the plunger, slightly increase the draw force of the bow (if possible), or increase the weight of the tip.

If non-feathered arrows come to the right of (soft) feathered arrows fired at the same aiming point, as seen in fig. 11 (for right-handed archers), then increase the spring rate of the plunger, slightly reduce the draw force of the bow (if possible), or reduce the weight of the tip.

Your equipment can be considered set when the fletched and fletched arrows arrive at the same place or very close to it. When you've completed the finer adjustments described in the fine-tuning and micro-tuning sections on pages 12-14, don't be surprised if the point of impact of unfletched arrows changes. For well-tuned bows, it is common for an unfletched arrow to hit a little lower and be slightly stiffer (comes to the left of fletched arrows for right-handed archers). Occasionally, good tuning can be achieved when the unfletched arrow is slightly softer (hitting to the right of the fletched arrow for right-handed archers), but this is an exception.

When correcting horizontal oscillations using zeroing in with unfletched arrows, you may encounter the problem of a fletched arrow hitting a fletched arrow. Your arrows may be too soft (non-feathered arrows come to the right of feathered arrows for right-handed archers) or too hard (non-feathered arrows come to the left for right-handed archers). If, after zeroing in using this method, an unfletched arrow hits more than 6 inches (15 cm) to the right (soft) or left (hard) from 20 yards, you will need to make additional equipment modifications to achieve a better setting. Follow the instructions on how to best fit arrows to your bow in the Bow-Arrow System Settings section.

Clearance

Proper ground clearance is absolutely essential for optimal grouping, stability and accuracy. This is especially important for ultra-light tubes such as UltraLite, A/C/E and A/C/C HyperSpeed.

After you have zeroed in with the fletched arrows and done the paper test, it's a good idea to check the ground clearance. To do this, use powder leg spray, powder deodorant, or the like on the last quarter of the arrow, fletching, front, and sight window next to the front. Do not shake the sprayed arrow and bow while preparing to shoot. It is necessary to shoot at a sufficiently rigid target so that the arrow does not enter it along the plumage.

If you have not achieved good arrow clearance, and the arrow fletching is touching the bow, it will not be possible to achieve optimal accuracy. If you examine the areas where the applied spray is scraped off, you will be able to identify the nature of this effect, and thus you will be able to understand how the feathering passes through the bow during the shot.

Easton introduces a new term for ground clearance problems called wobble. Like horizontal and vertical vibrations, small vibrations indicate an arrow flight disturbance. Small oscillations are very similar to horizontal oscillations, except that the arrow "tails" from side to side faster, and the size of these oscillations is usually much smaller than during horizontal oscillations. (See fig. 12.) Small fluctuations indicate insufficient clearance, which causes the rear of the arrow (usually the fletching) to touch the shelf.

Eliminate clearance problems

The following procedures will help you eliminate clearance problems that cause small oscillations:

1. If the fletching touches the shelf, try turning the arrow shank 1/32 of a turn. Continue turning the shank 1/32 turn at a time until clearance is achieved.
2. Make sure the shelf support arm does not protrude beyond the boom tube when it rests on the shelf against the plunger or sidewall. See fig. 8.
3. Choose a lower profile fletching.
4. Follow the instructions for adjusting bow-arrow equipment settings on page 10 to get the best setup.
5. If other tuning methods fail, move the plunger or sidewall slightly away from the bow to increase ground clearance.

Paper test (Recurve or compound bow - RP, BP, BR)

Archers using mechanical release (BR) should consider the following points before starting the paper test.

1. Align the arrow exactly in the center of the bowstring so that the arrowhead is correctly positioned, as shown in fig. 7.
2. To begin with, set the front sight of the sight exactly along the axis of the arrow.
3. When using a mechanical release, the boom flexes more vertically than horizontally, so good ground clearance is especially important. Usually the arrow touches the ledge along its entire length when it is fired, and the feathers must be set so that they do not touch the ledge.

"Shoot-Trough" shelves - it is necessary to adjust the width of the shelf support arms so that the plumage passes through or over them without touching.

"Shoot-Around" shelves - the position of the tail relative to the tail is very important and must be adjusted to obtain maximum ground clearance.

The paper test is most commonly used to tune a compound bow using a mechanical release. But this method also works well for finger release:

1. Secure the piece of paper well to a frame approximately 24″ x 24″ (60x60cm).
2. Position the center of the paper at approximately shoulder height. In this case, the boom receiver should be behind, approximately 6 feet.
3. Stand about 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8 m) away from the paper frame.
4. Shoot the feathered arrow through the center of the paper so that the arrow is parallel to the floor (horizontal) when fired.
5. See how the paper is torn.

This gap indicates good arrow flight. The tip and plumage fit into one hole.

This gap indicates an underestimated position of the nest. To fix, raise the socket 1/16″ (1.6 mm). Repeat the procedure until the bottom vertical tear no longer appears.

This gap indicates a high seat position, a clearance problem, or a soft boom if you are using a mechanical release. To fix, lower the socket 1/16″ (1.6mm) at a time until the top gap no longer appears. If the problem persists after moving the socket a few times, it may indicate insufficient clearance or an arrow that is too soft (if using a mechanical release). To identify a clearance problem, check to see if the tail is touching the ledge. (See "Clearance" section)

BR - If there is no clearance issue and you are using a mechanical release, try:

1. More flexible shelf blade if using launcher type shelves, or loosen launcher stiffness.
2. Reduce the peak draw force of the bow if the arrow is too soft.
3. Increase the length of the boom section protruding beyond the shelf.
4. Choose stiffer tubes.

This gap indicates a stiff arrow for right-handed archers using finger release (RP, BP). And vice versa for left-handed finger-release archers. This is an unusual gap for right-handed blockers using a mechanical release (BR). However, this does happen, and most often means that the shelf is too far to the right or possible contact of the plumage with the inside of the launcher.

Finger release (RP, BP):

1. Increase the draw/peak draw on the bow.
2. Use a heavier tip and/or insert.
3. Use a lighter bowstring (lower thread count or a lighter material such as fast flight).
4. Use a softer arrow.
5. Decrease the plunger spring rate or use a softer spring on the shelf.
6. For BP only - move the shelf slightly towards the bow.

Mechanical release (BR):

1. Move the shelf to the left. Continue to move the shelf to the left little by little until the right gap no longer appears.
2. Make sure the boom is not touching the branch or cables.

This gap indicates a soft arrow or a clearance problem for right-handed finger-release (RP) archers. For lefties, the opposite is true. For right-handed compounders using a mechanical release (BR), a left tear is common and usually indicates a soft arrow and/or a clearance problem. If a top left tear appears (see the following illustration), then make sure you have the slot properly aligned before beginning any further paper testing.

Finger release (RP, BP):

1. Check ground clearance.
2. Reduce draw tension/peak draw tension on the bow.
3. Use a lighter tip and/or insert.
4. Use a heavier bowstring (more thread or heavier material).
5. Use a stiffer arrow.
6. Increase the stiffness of the plunger or use a stiffer spring on the shelf.
7. For BP only - move the shelf slightly outward, away from the bow.

Mechanical release (BR):

1. Move the shelf to the right. Continue to move the shelf to the right little by little until the left gap no longer appears.
2. Make sure the hand holding the bow is relaxed to avoid excessive trembling.
3. Reduce the peak draw force of the bow.
4. Choose stiffer arrows.

This gap indicates at once several violations of the arrow's flight. Use the paper test procedures and combine the recommendations by first correcting the vertical gaps (nest position) and then the horizontal ones. If you're having trouble making adjustments (especially socket positions) and can't fix top/bottom breaks in the paper, contact your local service shop to check the timing of the cams or blocks on your bow.

For archers using a mechanical release, in some cases it may be necessary to apply the opposite settings to those described. The type of web and release used, in a particular combination, can affect boom flex dynamics, resulting in paper tears that indicate the opposite of the problems described here (although this is not common).

When you get a good set up at 4-6 feet (1.2-1.8m), move back another 6 feet (1.8m) and continue shooting through the paper. This will ensure that your settings are correct and that the arrow was in neutral when you fired at the paper at the first range.

Short distance tuning (for all types)

In many cases, when setting up equipment, it is not possible to shoot from long distances. The following method will help you achieve very good equipment setup at short distances. Use this method after you have done one of the basic tuning methods - sighting in with bare arrows or the paper test.

Start at about 12-15 yards (meters). Use a 40 or 60 cm target with the clean side facing you to shoot at the white target.

Vertical spread

Using only feathered arrows, fire 6-8 shots at the top edge of the target. This step will show the correct location of the socket. See fig. 13.

Usually, small problems in tuning are visible at a short distance, because the arrow has maximum vibrations at this point. This test will help identify problems with arrow flight and will allow finer adjustments than previous procedures. If you can't consistently hit the top edge of the target, this indicates a possible slight instability of the equipment. To fix this, move the socket 1/32″ (0.8mm) up or down and shoot again. Continue to move the socket 1/32″ (0.8 mm.), (but no more) at a time.

If your arrows are consistently hitting the edge of the target and you can get the arrows to line up in a straight horizontal line at the top of the target, you have eliminated the instability. If the line of arrows has widened, return to the original position of the socket and start moving it in the other direction, moving it 1/32″ (0.8 mm.). This will allow you to determine the correct position of the socket.

Horizontal spread

When you can achieve the most straight horizontal line of arrows, you are ready to adjust the horizontal spread of the arrows. Shoot 6-8 arrows at the left edge of the target vertically. See fig. 14.

To reduce the horizontal spread for BR and RP archers, move the shelf left or right. This is done in order to compensate for the eccentric effect. Cam offset on compound bows does not always compensate for the natural vibrations produced by the bow. Often the eccentric vibrates or tilts only when fully extended. This is a common occurrence and you shouldn't worry about it. At full tension, the center of the shoulder that you noted in the presetting step may not correspond to the true proportional center. Therefore, by trial and error, you must determine the best horizontal position of the shelf in order to achieve maximum accuracy.

Move the shelf 1/32″ (0.8 mm.) to one side or the other and shoot again. Continue adjusting until you reach the smallest horizontal spread of the arrow line. If the line of arrows has widened, return the shelf to its original position and slide it 1/32″ (0.8 mm.) in the other direction. If the line narrows, continue tuning in the same direction until the line is as straight as possible.

BP archers using plungers must make the necessary landing adjustments and then adjust the plunger stiffness. Increase or decrease the plunger spring rate by 1/8 turn at a time. If the vertical line gets wider, return the plunger to its original position and do 1/8 turns in the opposite direction until you get a straight vertical line of arrows.

RP archers should only adjust the plunger spring rate, increasing or decreasing it 1/8 turn at a time. If the vertical line gets wider, return the plunger to its original position and do 1/8 turns in the opposite direction until you get a straight vertical line of arrows. Do not change the horizontal position of the boom! The horizontal position of the arrow along the axis of the bow was already set at the stage of preliminary adjustment of the equipment.

Eliminate the causes of poor accuracy

You've probably heard some people say, "If you have good grouping at 20 yards, then it will be good at any distance" or "If you have good grouping at long range, then it will be good at short range." In some cases, neither of these statements is true. There may be a minimal inconsistency in the equipment that reduces its potential, does not achieve the best accuracy and leads to poor accuracy. This section provides information to help you make the fine adjustments needed to resolve most "minute" problems in setting up your equipment. Many archers experience one of the following problems with arrow accuracy and flight:

• Poor arrow flight and good accuracy. This is usually the result of too hard arrows. The arrow yaws a little while detaching from the bow, but usually stabilizes quickly and often shows quite acceptable accuracy.
• Good arrow flight and poor accuracy. While this seems counterintuitive, it happens quite often, and it has to do with the setup methods you've used. If you get a perfect, even hole when doing a paper test, or an unfletched arrow hits exactly the same spot as a fletched one, it may not always mean that you will have good accuracy. It just means that your arrows are flying well. For this reason, Easton has developed fine-tuning and micro-tuning techniques to help you achieve optimum accuracy on your equipment.
• Poor arrow flight and poor accuracy. This is the most common problem with arrows that are not of the right stiffness or equipment that is not set up. The information in this guide should help you resolve this issue.
• Good arrow flight and good accuracy. This is the end result of all your hard work!

Accuracy patterns often indicate likely problems with arrow flight. In order to identify these problems, the two most commonly encountered pattern patterns are described below. These examples are taken from FITA ranges, but can be easily matched to any short or long range range. Rice. 15 illustrates a pattern of good grouping at the indicated distances.

Excessive braking

The accuracy shown in fig. 16 shows a large dispersion at long ranges (90m), but accuracy at shorter ranges is acceptable. This means that the arrow is losing speed too quickly. Excessive braking leads to boom instability due to a rapid loss of initial speed. When the initial speed drops too quickly, instability appears. This unstable flight leads to poor grouping at long ranges and extreme sensitivity of the arrow to the wind. For light arrows, it is very important to reduce braking to a minimum in order to maintain maximum speed throughout the entire flight path of the arrow. This can be done by reducing the size (height and/or length) of the feathers, or by decreasing the angle of the feather decal, or both.

Insufficient ground clearance

accuracy at two long distances. However, at short ranges, accuracy does not decrease in proportion to accuracy at long distances. (Compare with Fig. 15). This usually indicates a clearance problem or a minimal Bow-Arrow system interaction problem. To fix this, see the "Clearance" section on page 5 or the "Fine Tweaks" and "Microsettings" sections on pages 12-14.

Rice. Figure 18 illustrates why you might have problems with grouping at short ranges, while grouping is good at long ranges. When fired, when the arrow is separated from the bow, it is in the phase of its maximum oscillation. As the arrow flies further, the amount of its bending decreases and the arrow returns to its original state. The example shows that the arrow is unstable and accuracy at short range is poor, but the arrow stabilizes at long range and shows acceptable accuracy. This instability is usually the result of minor set-up disturbances and a clearance problem.

Rice. 19 shows the path of the arrow as it separates from the bow without any disturbance. This is what you will try to achieve in the process of fine-tuning and micro-tuning.

Internal settings of the Luk-Arrow system

If you're having trouble tuning your bow, you'll need to make some adjustments to your equipment to get the best settings. Here are some suggestions:

Bow tension adjustment

Virtually all compound bows, as well as recurves, have the ability to adjust the draw force. If your arrows are too stiff, increase the tension. If your arrows are too soft, reduce the tension.

bowstring

The "weight" of the string can have a significant effect on the stiffness of the arrow. Increasing or decreasing the number of threads in the string affects the dynamic stiffness of the arrow so much that it is sometimes necessary to change the arrow a whole size softer or harder. If your arrow is too stiff, reduce the number of strings. If your arrow is too soft, increase the number of strings. The weight of the winding (center winding) can have the same effect. For example, monofilament on the center winding can increase the stiffness of the arrow, as opposed to lighter nylon yarn. Simply changing the arrow seat's metal stoppers to thread stops can have a noticeable effect on arrow stiffness due to the difference in weight between the two socket types.

The string is the most critical piece of your equipment. If the setup of your equipment does not work out for a long time, the problem may lie in the bowstring. Improper manufacture of the bowstring can lead to uneven loading of its threads. This imbalance causes the bowstring to be loaded and stretched unevenly, creating an inconsistent and unstable arrow release that severely reduces accuracy. If the problem exists and you cannot fix it with other settings, try changing the bowstring and reconfiguring the equipment again.

Tip and insert weight

adjust using tips and/or inserts of different weights. Aluminum arrows can be tuned using NIBB tips giving 7%, 8% or 9% arrow balance ratio. If your arrow is too soft, use lighter inserts/tips. If your arrow is too stiff, try heavier inserts/tips. Continue changing insert/tip weights within the acceptable arrow balance factor (7-16% F.O.C).

bow base

For recurve bows, there is another way to adjust arrows for stiffness - the base of the bow. By increasing or decreasing the distance from the string to the axis of the bow handle, you can slightly change the dynamic stiffness of the arrow, making it a little harder or softer. Increasing the base of the bow makes the arrow softer, while decreasing the base of the bow makes the arrow harder.

The base of the bow affects the stiffness of the arrow by increasing or decreasing the energy transferred to the arrow at the time of the shot. Increasing the base of the bow (shortening the string) compresses the shoulders, increases the load on the material of the shoulders. Greater initial contraction of the shoulders leads to greater draw force on the bow at full draw. And vice versa when reducing the base of the bow. A smaller bow base (lengthening the string) reduces the initial compression of the shoulders and reduces the draw force of the bow at full draw.

However, increasing the base results in a small loss in arrow speed, since the slight increase in draw force does not compensate for the decrease in the "power" of the bow. When the stroke is reduced, the amount of time the arrow stays on the string is also reduced, in turn reducing the amount of time that the bow's energy is transferred to the arrow.

While you may notice a slight loss in speed as you increase the base of the bow, don't let speed be the deciding factor in choosing the best base for your bow. It's often said, "It's better to hit the bull's-eye slowly than miss quickly."

On a compound bow, it is common to forget to adjust the base during tuning. This is because changing the base of the bow changes the length and draw force, which in turn requires additional adjustments. However, finding the right base for your compound bow (usually larger than the manufacturer's set) can, in many cases, greatly improve stability and accuracy and should be taken as a method of fine tuning.

The table on the previous page shows the full range of base settings for modern recurve bows. Changing the base within these ranges can affect the stiffness of the arrow in the same way as changing the weight of the point and/or insert by about 20 grains (1.3 grams). Remember that your bow shoots best when it is at its softest and quietest (although most recurves work well at two bases). Easton does not suggest an excessive range of bow base values. The table shows the range sufficient for adjusting the rigidity of the boom within the same size.

If, after making all the adjustments described, your arrows are still either too hard or too soft and do not fly well, select a different arrow size and readjust the equipment again.

Broadhead setup

In general terms, setting up broadheads can be done by first achieving accuracy with fieldhead arrows, and then with broadheads. Then these two groups are compared and the necessary adjustments are made.

WARNING: Never shoot unfeathered arrows with broadheads - the flight of the arrow is extremely unstable and dangerous!

Field tips should be as close as possible in weight to broadheads. It is necessary to first achieve good accuracy with field tips, setting the broadheads is done only after that.

Accuracy with field tips

Install a suitable receiver for broadheads at a distance of 20 to 30 yards. Use a set of fieldpoint arrows that are already set for your bow. Shoot 3 or 4 arrows for accuracy. Try to shoot as well as possible to get the best accuracy you can.

Broadhead accuracy

Using the same arrows equipped with broadheads, fire 3 or 4 arrows for accuracy. Use the same point of aim as when shooting with fieldpoints. Accuracy in this case is the key point. If you are satisfied with the resulting accuracy, which reflects your abilities, then compare the two received groups. Make the adjustments listed below and shoot again for accuracy. Continue to set up and shoot until both groups (fieldheads and broadheads) are in the same target area.

Make adjustments

See Fig. 20 below and settings

Adjustments

Adjustments sometimes have a greater effect than expected. It's always better to adjust the vertical spread first. When the two groups are at the same horizontal level, you can proceed with the horizontal adjustments.

1. If the group of arrowheads with broadheads is higher than those with fieldheads, move the socket up.
2. If the group of arrows with broadheads is lower than those with fieldheads, move the socket down.
3. If the broadhead accuracy is to the left, it is because the arrow is too stiff (for right-handers). All or some of the following can help correct the point of impact.
   • Increase the bow tension.
   • If you are using a plunger, reduce its spring rate.
   • Slide the shelf or plunger towards the bow. Make adjustments 1/32″ at a time.
4. If the broadhead accuracy is to the right, it is because the arrow is too soft. All or some of the following can help correct the point of impact.
   • Reduce bow tension.
   • Change broadheads to lighter ones.
   • If you are using a plunger, increase its spring rate.
   • Slide the shelf or plunger away from the bow. Make adjustments 1/32″ at a time.

Remember, tuning of broadheads can only be done after you have completed the correct tuning and adjustment with the field tips.

Fine settings

The fine tuning process is similar to micro tuning, but slightly less precise. You will need a pencil and paper and some sheets with the targets below.

1. Write down the exact measurements of your bow. For example:
   1. nest position,
   2. bow base,
   3. shoulder base (tiller),
   4. the number of threads in the string,
   5. bow pull force
   6. type of stabilizers used, etc.
   In other words, everything you think about the characteristics of your equipment.
2. Number the arrows. This will allow you to map out hits for each arrow and for the entire grouping as a whole.
3. Prepare to shoot at a comfortable range, anywhere from 40 to 60 yards (meters).
4. Shoot a couple of shots from the shooting drill to warm up before you start.
5. After warming up, shoot 6 to 10 feathered arrows for accuracy.
6. Write down the number of each arrow and the point of impact on the target.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 and compare the results. You need to achieve as close results as possible.
8. Make adjustments as described on the next page.

Vertical spread

Slide the socket 1/32″ (0.8 mm.) up or down. Shoot 2 more rounds of accuracy and plot your shots as described on page 12. For further adjustments, make sure you have all the bow adjustments for each group of arrows recorded. Compare vertical grouping to see if it has improved or not. If it improves, make another adjustment in the same direction by 1/32″ (0.8mm) and shoot 2 more bursts. If the vertical grouping becomes worse, return to the original settings and make the same adjustment in the other direction. Continue this process until you achieve the tightest vertical grouping.

Horizontal spread

BP- and BR-archers can adjust the horizontal position of the shelf approximately 1/32″ (0.8 mm.) either to one side or the other. Shoot 2 groups and draw up a hit pattern for each. Make sure you have the bow settings for each group recorded. Compare the two groups and determine if they got better or worse. If accuracy improves, make another 1/32″ (0.8mm) adjustment in the same direction and shoot 2 more bursts. If the accuracy has deteriorated, return to the original settings and make adjustments in the other direction. Continue this process until you achieve the best accuracy with just this one setting. After adjusting the seat or plunger horizontally, BP shooters can adjust the spring rate of the plunger by 1/8 to 1/4 turn, making it softer or stiffer for fine tuning. Remember that RP archers should only adjust the plunger spring rate, increasing or decreasing the spring rate 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time. Do not change the horizontal position of the boom!

Reading Arrow Accuracy Patterns

Carefully analyze the arrow pattern patterns you have recorded. Notice the different group shapes, and how the adjustments affected point of impact and accuracy. Analyze each arrow by its number. Carefully examine any arrows that are not consistently grouped with other arrows. Perhaps you will mark them so that they are not used in competition.

Identifying problems with arrows

You can find an arrow that doesn't group with other arrows. Before excluding its use in competitions, check it. Sometimes the problem can be easily identified. If the tube is cracked or has a dent or gouge, the tube must be discarded. Some arrows may look good but have problems that are not obvious and can result in poor accuracy. The following list includes the most common problems that result in massive arrow scatter.

Arrow straightness

For best accuracy, arrows should be straight. Easton recommends arrow straightness within 0.004″.

Curved shanks

There are several ways to check the straightness of shanks, including commercially available gauges and tools for adjusting the alignment of broadheads with a tube.

Shank location

It is possible that one shank in a set is turned more than the others. As a result, there may be problems with clearance. If the shank is turned too far, the fins will touch the ledge when fired.

Damaged plumage

If the feathers are even slightly separated from the tube, the arrow will not fall into the group with the rest of the arrows. In fact, the arrow may not even hit the target from 30 yards (meters) if the rear of the fletching is slightly torn off! Fletching that is slightly damaged usually does not affect accuracy unless you are shooting with hard or hard fletching. It is necessary to check the plumage before each shot so that it is not damaged. If the rear of any rigid empennage is tucked in, it will have a rudder effect resulting in a lot of scatter.

Damaged tips/inserts

Many archers are not aware of this potential problem. Tips must be properly installed using Easton's hot melt adhesive, which should completely cover the shaft of the tip or insert. Carefully follow the instructions for fitting tips/inserts. Easton recommends only Easton hot melt adhesive. If you use a different hot melt adhesive, it may be too brittle and may shatter if the arrow hits the rigid receiver. If the hot melt adhesive is broken or misused, it may cause the tip/insert to separate from the tube. When fired, gaps in the bond between the tip and the tube can lead to additional vibrations, which in turn affect the natural vibrations of the arrow, and therefore accuracy. To check tip vibration, simply hold an arrow near the fletching and lightly slap the tip on a table or drop the arrow onto the hard floor from foot height. If you hear a vibrating sound, the tip/insert may have come loose. Heat up and pull out the tip/insert and then reinstall properly.

Arrow weight

The weight of an arrow is an important consideration for the serious archer. If you consistently hit one arrow slightly above or below the other arrows in the group, you need to check the weight of the tip. A matched set of arrows must have a weight difference of no more than three grains. Top athletes often match their arrows to within one grain or less.

micro settings

The micro-tuning process is similar to the fine-tuning procedures and is designed to achieve optimal grouping at all distances.

1. Prepare to shoot from the maximum range you normally shoot at in competition.
2. Fire a series of 6 - 10 arrows.
3. Measure and record the distance between the highest and lowest points of impact.
4. Before making adjustments, shoot the second series for accuracy.
5. Again measure the distance between the highest and lowest points of impact.
6. Repeat steps 2-5 for each of the following adjustments.

Vertical spread

Adjust the socket position no more than 1/32″ (0.8 mm.) up or down. Shoot two more rounds and record the distance between the highest and lowest points of impact. If in the last two series the average distance between the points of impact is less than in the first two series, then you are making the right adjustments. Continue to move the nest until you reach the smallest possible distance between the highest and lowest arrows in the group. If after a few adjustments you notice that the vertical grouping has started to increase, you may have made too many adjustments and you need to go back to the settings that give the best effect.

Horizontal spread

When you are satisfied with the vertical accuracy of your arrows, you can start adjusting the horizontal accuracy. Keep shooting in bursts of 8-10 arrows. Shoot 2 series and measure the distance between the leftmost and rightmost arrows in each series.

For compound bow shooters (RP and BR), move the shelf horizontally 1/32″ (0.8 mm.) to the left or right. Shoot 2 more series and again measure the distance between the leftmost and rightmost arrows. Compare the results of the last two series with the first. If the amount of horizontal spread has decreased, you are making the correct adjustments. And if the spread has increased, return to the original settings and move the shelf 1/32″ (0.8 mm.) To the other side. Continue these adjustments until you reach the maximum possible horizontal grouping.

BP archers using plungers must first adjust the horizontal position of the ledge until they achieve the best horizontal accuracy. Then, for finer horizontal accuracy settings, you need to adjust the plunger spring rate, as described for recurve bows.

Archers using recurve bows (RP) should only adjust the spring rate of the plunger, not its horizontal position. Make spring rate adjustments only 1/8 turn. Follow the same instructions as for compound bows. First, shoot 2 series for accuracy and measure the distance between the leftmost and rightmost arrows. Change the plunger spring rate and shoot two more series. Again, if the horizontal grouping has deteriorated, go back to the original settings and make adjustments 1/32″ (0.8 mm.) in the other direction.

When you've finished setting up at long range, move up to 20 yards (18 m) and practice horizontal grouping again, making the same adjustments as you did at the previous distance. It is no longer necessary to adjust the nest, but only to adjust the horizontal accuracy. When you have completed this distance, go another 20 yards (18m) and repeat this test again.

Continue this process until you are about 20 yards (18 m) from the target. You will notice that as small as 1/8 of a plunger turn or 1/32″ (0.8mm) of horizontal web offset has a significant effect on short range accuracy. It is essential to continue testing and tuning with 20 yard (18m) offsets so you can see how your equipment performs at any range when you shoot in competition.

The bow base tuning procedure, similar to that described in the fine tuning section, can be done for both compound and recurve bows. Adjust the base by 1/32″ (0.8 mm.) and record groups of arrows. After completing this procedure, you should find a combination of settings that slightly or significantly improves accuracy.

Do not forget:

Install all accessories on your bow before you start any tuning.

A set of good arrows is an essential part of your equipment.

Bow adjustments, bow component changes, or changes in shooting technique can affect your equipment settings. Remember that you and your equipment are uniquely interconnected and completely unified. Any change in one or the other leads to a variety of effects.

During tuning, change only one variable at a time.

If, after all the tuning attempts described in this guide, your arrows still fly incorrectly, you may need to change your arrows to a harder or softer size and readjust.

**Tuning methods compiled and edited by Don Rabska with input from Terry Ragsdale, Fred Troncoso and others.

ELEMENTS OF SHOOTING TECHNIQUE

There are several ways to put on or take off a bowstring.

Consider the most rational ways of putting on and taking off the bowstring, common in our country and abroad. The main advantage of these methods is to prevent twisting of the bow arms when it is bent.

with a belt on the leg and thigh

with a belt

using a special cord with leather loops at the ends

with help two points available on fixed support

So, it is necessary to put the bowstring of the shoulders on the eye of the lower shoulder and, holding the upper loop in the left hand, and in the right hand the bow on the upper shoulder (closer to the eye), pass the right leg between the bow and the bowstring. Then, fixing the bow shoulder with the lower end to the outer surface of the left boot, and the back surface of the handle to the back surface of the right thigh, bend it by pressing the front surface of the upper shoulder with the right hand and put another bowstring loop on its eye. When bending the bow, it is necessary to ensure that the movement of the right hand occurs in the working plane of the bow.

shooting technique

The technique of any sports exercise is understood as the most rational way to perform it, in other words, sports equipment is a specialized system of simultaneous movements aimed at the rational organization of the interaction of internal and external forces acting on the body of an athlete, in order to use them most fully and effectively for achieving the highest possible results" (V.M. Dyachkov).

This definition fully applies to the technique of archery. Athletes need to understand that the shooting process is a motor skill, a controlled action.

Modern biotechnics considers sports equipment as a structure of "control processes carried out by the athlete's biomechanical apparatus and aimed at the implementation of the motor programs of this sport" (F.K.Agashin). The movement program of archery (its kinematic structure) is based on the provisions described in the article "Some questions in the theory of shooting from a sports bow" (collection of "Colorful targets", 1977).

In this work, the external manifestations of the shooting technique are considered, which are reduced to the analysis of the relative position of the athlete's links and their relative movement in time and space.

Technique training is reduced to the creation and improvement of the archer's movements control processes, to the organization of such connections in the archer's biomechanical apparatus, which ensure the maximum reliability of the motor program execution. Despite the fact that the technique of shooters may be different due to individual characteristics and views on the issues of shooting technique, the elements of technique recommended below constitute a certain system.

The shooter must find and take a position in which the oscillation of his body and, accordingly, the bow will be minimal. Moreover, this position should be easily and accurately reproduced before each shot and contribute to the work of the muscles throughout the competition.

Shooting accuracy largely depends on the location of the body of the shooter and the bow immediately before the shot and must ensure the release of the arrow in the plane of the shot.

Thus, the archery technique is a set of movements and certain positions of the human body parts necessary to perform a shot, providing the maximum probability (reliability) of hitting the target. It includes: manufacturing; aiming; shot processing (technique of its execution); breath control; preparing for the next shot. Each component of the complex is also subdivided into a number of elements.

Installing an arrow on a bow

Before the shot, the arrow is inserted into the socket of the bowstring with its shank and placed on the shelf. For athletes using the clicker, the arrow is inserted under it. The bow is held with the left hand (when left-handed) horizontally or with a slight inclination of the handle window.

The arrow is taken with the right hand closer to the plumage and inserted with the shank into the nest, and the middle part is placed on the lower ledge of the window. Then, with the right hand, the arrow is inserted under the clicker and lowered onto the shelf.

Some shooters, especially those with a clicker made with a bend in its upper part, insert an arrow, first passing it under the bend of the clicker, lower it to the shelf and only then insert the shank into the socket. And at the same time, and with other ways of preparing an arrow for a shot, each time you need to carefully monitor that the guide pen is directed away from the bow, as shown in the figure.

For safety reasons, inserting an arrow is only allowed on the shooting line and with the bow pointing towards the target.

fabrication

The preparation is determined by the position of the legs, torso, arms and head in relation to the direction of fire. It should be natural and not change from shot to shot, from series to series. The manufacture of the shooter is divided into initial and working.

Initial fabrication is the position of the shooter in the state of readiness to draw the bow.

When taking the initial position, the shooter performs a number of actions:

• taking a stance, the position of the legs, torso, head is determined, an arrow is set on the bow;
• the position of the hand holding the bow (hand, grip), pulling hand (grip of the bowstring, orientation of the bowstring) is determined;
• the position of the shoulder and forearm is determined;
• training conditions are assessed.

Working readiness. Having accepted and checked the correctness of the accepted initial position of all parts of the body, the shooter stretches the bow until the string touches the front surface of the chin. At the same time, the arm is bent at the elbow joint in such a way that the hand is as close as possible to the neck, and the forearm and shoulder, forming an acute angle, are almost in the same horizontal plane. Stretching the bow is carried out only by tension of the posterior bundles of the deltoid muscle and the muscles that take the scapula back. The nail phalanges and the flexors of the fingers holding them perform the function of capturing the bowstring.

After clarification in aiming, the execution of the arrows' draw is at the stage of completion of preparation for the shot and is ready to execute it.

Leg position.

The shooter stands with his left side to the target, feet shoulder-width apart, parallel or with slight dilution of the toes. This position of the feet provides sufficient stability in the frontal and sagittal planes, and limits freedom of movement in the hip joints.

a) open, b) lateral c) closed

BCT - common center of gravity

Body position

Body position is one of the main elements of the stance.

It should be stable, uniform and as natural as possible, should not bend or twist.

When manufacturing, the body should be vertical, slightly leaning forward. Checking the correctness of the manufacture is carried out by pulling the bowstring in front of the mirror.

The shooter's head should be turned towards the target with a slight tilt to the left (toward the back). The chin should be slightly raised, which creates convenience for placing the pulling hand.

When teaching the correct position of the head, the trainer, standing in front of the shooter and holding the bow with his right hand, corrects the position of the head with his left hand.

The hand that holds the bow in the air experiences the elasticity of the bow during the release of the bowstring and the extension of the shoulders. Performing static work, she is involved not only in stretching the bow, but also in pointing and holding the bow in the direction of the target - in aiming. The position of the individual links of the left hand relative to the plane of the shot must meet the following requirements:

1. The pressure of the brush on the bow handle is in the plane of the shot. In this case, the point of its application to the handle must be constant from shot to shot.
2. The links of the hand must not interfere with the free passage of the bowstring when fired until the arrow has completely left the bow.
3. The position of the left hand ensures the maximum possible stretching of the bow by the athlete, contributes to the passage of the bowstring at the time of the shot.

The position of the left hand and its links relative to the plane of the shot affects the degree of tension in the muscles of the shoulder girdle. The farther the axes of the joints are located from the plane of the shot, the greater the load experienced by the muscles when holding the stretched bow. From this point of view, it is advisable, if possible, to bring the hand closer to the direction of the arrow.

The position of the hand on the handle

Grip - a way to hold the bow in the hand. There are many ways to place the handle in the hand. And, as a rule, everyone considers their grip to be the most effective. Such an assessment of various methods is determined not so much by erroneous or overestimated estimates, as by the individual characteristics of the shooters.

Below is a detailed analysis and classification of how to hold a bow, but now we will consider the requirements for a grip:

• the area of ​​​​contact of the bow handle with the brush should be as small as possible;
• the direction of the pressure force of the bow on the hand when pulling the bowstring should pass through (as close to the center as possible) the wrist joint;
• the muscles - the flexors of the fingers should be, if possible, relaxed. If they participate in holding the bow, then they grasp the handle every time with the same force;
• the center of application of the force of the touch of the hand should always come to the same place on the handle.

Classification of grip options:

• According to the location of the wrist joint relative to the plane of the bowstring
• By the nature of the brush
• According to the position of the fingers
• By the work of the fingers

The methods of holding a bow encountered in practice are classified according to three criteria:

1. Depending on whether the shooter touches the handle with the whole palm or the notch between the thumb and forefinger, the grip is divided into low and high. Low grip - the handle of the bow rests on the palm, the pressure force of the bow falls on the wrist joint. Holding the bow this way is easy. The tension of the muscles of the hand and the wrist joint is minimal, therefore, there is less danger of "knocking out" the bow.

A significant disadvantage of this grip is that the area of ​​contact between the hand and the handle of the bow is too large - it is very difficult for beginner shooters to direct the force of contact to the same point on the handle. The departure angle will therefore be unstable even at the same distance. Accuracy hit correspondingly deteriorates.

With a high grip, the stretched bow is held by pressing the neck of the handle of the notch between the thumb and forefinger.

2. In relation to the wrist joint and the plane of movement of the bowstring, the grip is divided into shallow and deep.

Small - the handle of the bow is highlighted to the right (when left-handed) from the longitudinal axis of the forearm. The entire load is taken by the thumb. In view of the increased risk of "knocking" with this grip, it can only be recommended for those shooters who cannot otherwise remove the elbow joint from the plane of movement of the bowstring (for example, with excessive bending in it).

Deep - the forearm of the left hand with its front part deeply enters the plane of the bowstring. This provides a load on the muscles that fix the wrist joint, but exposes the forearm to a blow. Excessive approach of the elbow joint to the plane of movement of the bowstring leads to tangible blows to her arm. As a result, boom deflections in flight, as well as pain and injury, are possible.

3. Holding can be carried out with or without grasping the handle of the bow with fingers, and holding with a grasp is divided, in turn, into hard (strong grip on the handle) and free (fingers are freely inserted into the handle). The latter is most often found at high grip.

Under the influence of external forces (stretching the bow), as a result of non-identical manufacture of the handle and shoulders of the bow, when the bowstring is released, the handle rotates around the vertical axis.

So that the grip does not aggravate (do not increase) the negative effects of the bow, it is recommended:

• use a free grip, which ensures unimpeded self-setting of the bow under the action of tensile forces;
• in order to reduce the moment of friction at the point of contact of the hand with the handle, the latter should be carefully polished and its diameter should be as small as possible;
• with a hard grip, the position of the hand on the handle should be such that the conditional center of the wrist and intercarpal joints is on the line of the stretching force. Free rotation about this center must be ensured by complete relaxation of the corresponding muscles.

Of the two grip options, preference should be given to the free one.

When overextension of the arm in the elbow joint, it is recommended to make a complex rotational movement of the arm in order to avoid blows with the bowstring.

The hand, forearm and shoulder while holding the stretched bow should be located on one straight line lying in the plane of the shot. The hand, under the action of the reverse force of stretching the bow that occurs when shooting, moves in the direction of this force. Thus, the natural direction of departure of the left hand after the shot is its movement along the plane of the shot, i.e. towards the target.

Types of grip

The place of emphasis on the handle is in the same horizontal plane with the wrist joint, i.e. hand and forearm form one straight line. The palm with fingers spread or freely lowered loosely touches the handle or is held horizontally. The disengaged grip requires considerable muscle effort when fixing the wrist joint, but significantly reduces the possibility of displacements of the center of application of the bow resistance force.

The position of the hand pulling the string.

The right hand pulls the string, and if the movement stops, then only during the preliminary aiming. Aiming is carried out against the background of a slow, barely noticeable to the eye movement of the hand pulling the bowstring.

Before considering the section on the position of the hand pulling the bowstring, it is necessary to consider the methods of grabbing the bowstring, and only then - the position and work of the whole hand.

Bowstring grip used in sports target shooting

The grip is performed with the index, middle and ring fingers. The string is placed on the first (nail) phalanges, closer to the joints, so that the arrow is between the index and middle, and the load is distributed evenly on all fingers. The middle, longer finger should be slightly bent at the second joint, then the third joint will approach the line of the three joints of the two fingers and, therefore, will take on an equal part of the load. For this purpose, they use an additional overlay on this finger - a fingertip.

The thumb and little finger do not participate in holding the bowstring. To avoid interference from the thumb, the following are the most common ways to apply the brush.

a) presses it to the palm (submandibular method);

b) withdraws and presses the front surface to the neck (neck method);

c) retracts and presses to the posterior surface of the lower jaw (maxillary method)

Aiming

Aiming is the aiming of the bow at the target and keeping it in that position until the shot is fired.

Aiming consists of a visual assessment of sights and direct actions that direct and hold the bow, arrow, bowstring.

When aiming, control is carried out:

• for the alignment of the aiming line with the aiming point;
• behind the bowstring projection relative to the shooting plane;
• for the preservation of the shooter's base.

When shooting from a bow, aiming is carried out in several ways. For example, aiming at an arrow: the shank of the arrow is placed at the height of the eye. With a change in the base of the shooter - due to the installation of the arrow shank at different eye heights (depending on the distance).

At present, the most common method of aiming is a constantly maintained distance from the eye to the arrow shank. This distance (base) is maintained by tightly applying the hand pulling the bowstring under the chin, with the bowstring fixed at two points (chin, tip of the nose). Some athletes use a "button" on the string to more accurately fix the distance from the eye to the arrow. Leaky closing of the shooter's teeth is not allowed, as this increases the base of the shooter and the arrows fly up.

The second point is the front sight of the sight, fixed on the front, back of the bow handle or on the remote ruler, which moves vertically and horizontally. The point of aim in shooting is the target. The shooter fixes the front sight through the projection of the bowstring, which must pass along the geometric axis of the bow handle

A - movable sight engine (front sight)

B - shooter base

C - the amount of tension of the arrow

H - tension fixation point

M - aiming point

T - top of the trajectory

P - point of impact

Y - elevation angle

D - firing distance

OAM - line of sight

The aiming scheme shown in the figure will help acquaint beginner shooters with the aiming sight, evaluate the deviation of the points (eye, bowstring, front sight, center of the target) that make up the aiming line, and the effect of these deviations on the arrow flight path, will force them to take their actions with due responsibility when shot handling.

Aiming should ensure aiming the front sight of the bow at the target with a constant stretching of the bow and the required angle of elevation (throwing) of the arrow, therefore, the actions of the shooter associated with aiming the bow at the target: releasing an arrow, determining the position of the axis of symmetry of the bow, arrows, bowstrings, the trajectory of the arrow, point hits - must be in the same vertically located plane, i.e. in the plane of the shot.

For aiming a sports bow with a bowstring grip with three fingers, the following sequence of its execution is recommended, providing the listed requirements:

1. Acceptance of the working readiness should be made before the start of clarification when aiming.
2. The position of the head is fixed by the tension of the muscles of the neck and back so that the aiming line passes through the shooter's eye, bowstring, front sight and target and coincides with the plane of the shot. The quality of the hit depends on the stability of the turn and tilt of the head.
3. The archer's base (the distance between the eye and the arrow attached to the string) must be constant. This is achieved with the help of a dense "winding" of the brush under the lower jaw.
4. The position of the fingers on the string should not take it out of the plane of the shot and change the force of stretching the bow due to an increase or decrease in the effort applied by the ring finger (this happens when the elbow is lifted up). should take the bowstring out of the vertical plane of the bow. When fixing the bowstring on the right (or left) side of the jaw (right or left wing of the nostrils of the nose), the vertical plane of the bow should also coincide with the aiming line.
5. With a vertical plane of the shot, there should be no obstruction of the bow. The obstruction of the bow occurs around an axis located between the points of its support in a stretched position; these points are the brush of the left and right hand. Approximately, we can assume that the bow turns around the axis of the arrow when it falls. If the archer shoots with a constant blockage of the bow, then he is not exempt from errors in hitting and control of the angle of inclination is necessary.
6. Aiming change relative to the vertical axis occurs due to the rotation of the torso in the plane of the shot.
7. The direction of the arrow can serve as control over the correctness of the hit (provided that the axis of the arrow coincides with the vertical plane of the bow: the bowstring and the front sight of the sight are projected along the axis of the bow). Alignment of the sight with the target in height is achieved by a slight inclination of the torso.
8. When aiming, the shooter should rationalize his movements (stretching the bow, applying the brush), which will reduce the time for processing the shot, and hence the energy consumption of the shooter during its execution. As in bullet shooting, in archery it is recommended to aim with the other eye closed. At the same time, visual fatigue is less, clarity in distinguishing the front sight is maintained for a longer time. Features of human vision are such that he is not able to simultaneously distinguish between distant and close objects. For this reason, it is impossible to clearly distinguish between the front sight and the target at the same time. That is why it is preferable to focus the sight on the front sight and to project its sharp outlines onto a blurry target.

The projection of the bowstring when aiming should pass along the geometric axis of the bow handle.

Shot processing

Handling the shot is the last phase in drawing the bow, aiming and drawing, which ends with the shot - the departure of the arrow from the bowstring. Aimed shot is carried out as follows. Having taken a position for shooting (a bow in a lowered hand), assessing its correctness (attitude towards the target, setting the legs, head, etc.) and familiarizing himself with the objective conditions for the execution of the upcoming shot, the shooter raises the bow and, holding it in his hand (stretched towards the target ), takes the preparation, pulls the string, directs the bow with the front sight to the center of the target and, holding this direction, resumes stretching, but very slowly, without interfering with the immobility of the entire "shooter-bow" system. Against this backdrop, at the moment when the arrow came out from under the clicker (provided that the bow did not change its direction with the front sight to the middle of the target), the bowstring is torn off. The draw begins with the movement of the arrow from under the clicker and ends with a click. By this sound signal, the release of the bowstring begins, which ends with the complete separation of the bowstring from the chin.

The actions of the shooter on the release of the bowstring must be made in the direction of the plane of the shot, and the bowstring must only go away from the chin. Both hands are involved in the withdrawal (release) of the arrow. In the phases of stretching and releasing the string, the left hand increases pressure on the bow handle in the direction of the shot, helping, as it were, the right hand, but in no case replacing it. With such work of the left hand, when the "bow-shooter" chain broke, it moves the bow in the direction of the shot without knocking it down. The right hand moves back.

Breath control

Before taking the initial position, you should breathe calmly, a little deeper, then, closer to the beginning, stretching the bowstrings, more superficially. The processing of the shot should be done while holding the breath on the floor of the exhalation. The respiratory cycle consists of inhalation, exhalation and pause. In one minute, a person in a calm state produces an average of 12-15 cycles, that is, one respiratory cycle lasts 4-5 seconds. After exhalation - 2-3 second pause. This natural pause is usually used by the shooter to process the shot. But in order for it to be enough for the whole shot, the breath is held a little earlier than the onset of a natural pause, and it is extended until the bowstring is released. Thus, it increases to 10-12 seconds required to process a shot. Properly set breathing, corresponding to the rhythm of shooting, provides the body with normal rest, protects it from premature fatigue.

Preparing for the next shot

Preparation for the next shot is a set of actions of the shooter after the shot, which ensures its recovery, analysis of the shot and the decision to maintain or improve the quality of the hit.

Preparation for the execution of a shot consists of actions that take place in a very short period of time (an average of 50 seconds for the entire complex of preparatory measures and a shot). After firing, the shooter must maintain the posture and position of the bow in the outstretched hand until the arrow hits the target, mark the shot using binoculars or at short distances without it, and conduct a thorough analysis of the shot. When analyzing a shot in the event of an adverse hit, the cause should be determined. If an error is found, decide on its correction. If the cause of the error is unknown, then it is necessary to perform the next shot, after a secondary analysis, find the cause of the error and make an appropriate decision.

The procedure for the instructor (on the example of a right-handed client):

1) The instructor gives the bow to the client. The client should hold the bow in a half-stretched left hand;

2) The instructor puts the arrow into the string. Fixes the arrow with a shank in the "thread pocket" (see above how to make a pocket);

3) The instructor puts the arrow on the shelf;

4) The instructor shows the client how to hold the bowstring at the time of the shot (the arrow in the string should be between the index and middle fingers of the right hand. You can’t squeeze the arrow with your fingers - it keeps on the bowstring so well. Clients need to be told about this, because almost everyone they strive to squeeze the arrow between the fingers. Also, the main mistake of the client is trying to pull the bowstring with the thumb and forefinger - "like in childhood". Such attempts should be immediately cut down and forced to stretch the bowstring as mentioned above, otherwise the shot may be unsafe);

5) When the fingers are properly on the string, the instructor asks the client to draw the bow. The bow stretches to 3/4 (even 2/3) of the length of the arrow (for safety reasons, the arrow should not fly at high speed). In this case, the client's left arm should be extended straight.

6) At the moment of drawing the bow, the instructor tells how to aim and where. You can make an impromptu sight with your own hands. Enough at a distance of 10cm. from the bow shelf, pull the bow handle with red tape. When you hover an imaginary line from the specified red line to the center of the target, you will get an accurate shot at a distance of 10 meters. You say that it is impossible to aim an arrow at the center of the target, because. the arrow will fly much higher. For archery at a distance of 10 meters, it is better to use a target with a diameter of 60 cm. Such a target is attached to an isolon block 1 m by 1 m. Read a special article about how to make an arrow catcher for shooting at a shooting range.

At the moment of pulling the bowstring, the arrow may fly off the shelf. The instructor himself corrects the arrow. And tells the client that he (the client) should not correct her. Otherwise, time is wasted, the client will become confused and the shooting process will be choppy, which may affect safety.

7) The instructor must make sure that the arrow is directed to the center of the target, only then can the client be told that it is possible to shoot. The left hand of the instructor during the entire shooting process should lightly hold the handle of the bow. In case of inadequate aiming, the instructor himself adjusts the bow to the desired position. The instructor can achieve this by mentally evaluating the trajectory of the arrow, necessarily correlating it with the force of the bowstring tension.

8) The instructor must not allow the client to hold the bow for a long time in a drawn position. The hand gets tired and the client can shoot unpredictably.

9) The instructor tells the client how to properly release the string. The client should not jerk at the moment of releasing the arrow with his right hand in the hope of drawing the bow even more strongly. The arrow is released by simply unclenching the phalanges of the fingers of the right hand. The arm and hand of the right hand must be motionless at this moment, otherwise the arrow will fly out unpredictably.

Archery training. The archery section of our website contains information about almost all well-known archery clubs and sections in Moscow and Russia. If you have information about the existence of a section (club) that is not in the list, you can add it. Choose the right place for archery. In most sections, archery classes for children are free. Recruitment of children and adults to the section usually takes place at the beginning of the school year (September), but most coaches continue to accept newcomers throughout the year. In sports schools, as a rule, beginners are given a bow for beginners, arrows and the necessary equipment. In extreme cases, you can buy a bow for shooting in numerous online stores selling bows, crossbows and related products. The cost of a bow for a beginner is about 3 thousand rubles. Join. Just one word of warning: Archery is a very addictive sport, it can drag on for a long time ;-)

NEWS section in the world of archery. This section constantly publishes news taking place in shooting sports, the opening of new sections or clubs, competitions, archery tournaments, changes in competition rules, interviews with coaches and archery athletes and much more. You can publish your announcement (article, news) about an upcoming (or past) competition, tournament, or other event. Please indicate the coordinates of the organizers, the date of the event, the place, etc.

So, you have become the owner of a high-quality compound bow, spectacular in appearance and effective (judging by the factory specifications). Are you ready to go on field trials with it, are you in a great mood, looking forward to the pleasure of marksmanship, the ringing of a bowstring, the feeling of something primitive and sublime? Should upset you a little. Do not rush to the forest or to the range, your bow still needs to be tuned! Otherwise, you are guaranteed difficulties with stretching, slanting arrows, incorrect orientation of the sight, too tight string tension, and so on. When shooting from an unadjusted compound, it is easy to break an expensive arrow. But troubles can be easily avoided if you carefully follow the recommendations outlined in this article.

First of all, study the components of your compound in order to be well versed in the recommendations, to speak competently and correctly: a shelf, an eyelet, a pip-site, a stabilizer, an eccentric, etc., and not “that’s that damn thing that sticks out from the side.”

A standard compound bow consists of a handle with an emphasis for the shooter's hand, shoulders (shoulders are attached to the handle), shoulder pockets, eccentrics (two or one, depending on the model), a cable system and a working bowstring. This is a bow in its "pure" form, without a body kit. Next, a sight, shelf, stabilizer, pip-site, sling, shako (or quiver) are installed on the bow. A loop is tied on the bowstring itself to capture the bowstring with a release (we will talk about tying the loop a little later).

For a beginner, it is unacceptable to start using a bow with powerful shoulders, since when mastering archery on tight shoulders, all the attention of the shooter goes not to the correct stance and the execution of all phases of the shot “according to the textbook”, but to stretching the bow and holding the tension. In addition, shooting without the habit of a powerful bow leads to the rapid appearance of pain in the joints of the right shoulder (in right-handers, respectively, in the joints of the left shoulder in left-handers). Beginners should shoot a bow with loose shoulders and increase the tension as they master the weapon.

The tension of the bow is changed by adjusting the screws at the base of the shoulders. Manufacturers usually indicate the maximum number of turns of the screws that the adjusting screws can be loosened (loosening more than this will damage the bow). For proper adjustment, tighten the tension screws to the limit and then loosen the screws by turning counterclockwise.
Remember: the number of turns of the screws (in the loosening or tightening direction) for the upper and lower arms must be the same.

After adjusting the effort of the shoulders, it is necessary to check the uniformity of the distance between the shoulders and the bowstring. This procedure is performed using a special ruler, but you can use the usual one. If your bow is equipped with two eccentrics, then you should check the distance from the string to the pocket of the shoulders. If the distance is not the same, you should adjust it with the screw on the shoulder pockets so that the distance is the same. If you have a bow with one and a half eccentrics, adjusting the distance is done in the same way.

If your bow is equipped with a single quick release and a simple wheel (on the other side), the distance of the limbs is more complicated to adjust. Since the eccentric is much larger than the wheel, the bowstring of such a bow is asymmetrical. To check the correctness of the removal, a thread is pulled from one axis on the shoulders to the other and the distance is measured along it. It should be the same, since the shoulders are equal in size to each other.

After the adjustments have been made, you should install a shelf on the bow. Since the shelf works for the “correct” shot only for the first 10-15 cm of the arrow moving along it, and then it just interferes (with the arrow), the shelves themselves are not made rigidly fixed. The shelves are movable, they can be spring-loaded, mechanically retractable or otherwise (depending on the model and type of bow).

The choice of shelf depends on the type of shooting you want to conduct: recreational shooting, hunting, sports. Therefore, the choice of the type and model of this device should be approached carefully.

The simplest popular shelves are models with standing antennae made of aluminum. They are often used by beginners.

More experienced archers put falling shelves on their weapons. Falling shelves maximally save the arrow from unwanted contact with the shelf, that is, they minimally knock the arrow off the right course.

If you are planning to hunt, it is best for you to install a special hunting shelf with “bristles”. With such a device, you can successfully shoot in the dark, in windy weather, shoot down accurately. Of course, such a shelf is good only for hunting in the forest. In a shooting range, she loses to shelves with antennae and falling models. Consider the installation of a falling type shelf.

To properly adjust the shelf position, first screw it onto the bow, following the manufacturer's recommendations. Then bring it into working position by lifting it up with your finger all the way up and securing it with a hexagon (a special hole is provided for this). In this case, we can observe in what position the arrow will be located on the shelf when the bow is fully drawn. Checking the correct installation of the shelf is carried out by observing from the side of the bowstring on the bow and checking the alignment of the string with the handle and the bowstring with the shelf. If there is no alignment, adjustments must be made. In the case of using a shelf with antennae, the platform simply recovers to the required position.

To adjust the shelf, unscrew the locking screw (hexagon) by 2-3 turns and screw the support roller clockwise. Carry out the adjustment until the shelf enters the plane. The final check is the control of the position of the arrow according to the projection of the bowstring. If the arrow is positioned correctly, you can tighten the screw and proceed to fasten the lace that brings the shelf into position when the bowstring is pulled. The lace is usually included in the delivery of the shelf.

The end of the cord is folded into a loop, superimposed on the recess (around the mounting hole) and clamped with a screw. To avoid untangling, the edge of the cord should be melted with an open fire (lighter, matches). The second end of the cord is tied to the lower cable. To do this, the cord is threaded between the strands of the cable.

After the performed manipulations, a “nest” (or “saddle”) is wound - a place on the bowstring where the arrow shank will be inserted. Often the string comes with a metal mark in place of the "saddle". It is best to remove it immediately and wind the “saddle” with cotton threads. The length of the "saddle" is 1-1.5 cm. The point from where you should start winding is measured by a ruler. The opposite end of the ruler should lie exactly on the surface of the installed shelf (in working position). For bows with one eccentric, the "saddle" is located 20-25 mm above the perpendicular, for models with two eccentrics - 5-10 mm higher.

Next, you should make a loop for the release. The release loop is now just a recommended necessity, almost no one shoots from the fingers of the compound anymore. It is recommended to use materials for the hinge, which include Fast Flite, Dyneema, etc. However, many archers use cheap nylon cords with great success.

To install the loop, you need to cut off a piece of cord about 11.5 cm long. Singe the ends of the cord. The correct method of tying the eyelet is detailed in the drawings. After the loop is formed, it must be tightened well. This is required so that the knots of the loop do not untie, and so that it (the loop) does not scroll on the bowstring. The loop is tightened with a special tool, although this procedure can also be performed using pliers.

The next step is to install a pip site. A peep site is a small device inserted between the strings of a bowstring. With it, you can maintain a constant position of the head (and, therefore, aiming), in which the sight of the front sight will fall strictly in one trajectory, through the opening of the pip-site.

You will need an assistant to determine where to install the pip site. It is necessary to smoothly stretch the bow with closed eyes, applying a release to the cheekbone at the finish. Then open your eyes and ask the assistant to mark with a marker on the bowstring the point that the eye falls on in the plane with the right eye. After that, at the marked place, the bowstring threads are moved apart and a pip-site is inserted. From above and below this place is fixed by winding threads. Threads are recommended to use kapron. The ends of the threads must be singeed. After installing the pip site, check if the fly is clearly visible through the hole. If the pip site does not rotate all the way, you should throw a few strings of the bowstring from one side to the other than change the angle of the pip site relative to the plane of view of the right eye.

At the end, you should once again check the stretch of the bow in accordance with the release used. Releases are T-shaped and carpal. Carpals are more often used for hunting. With a wrist release, the bow draw is slightly shorter than with a T-release. This should be taken into account. The correct stretch is when the hand with release is firmly pressed against the lower jaw, the bowstring touches the nose, and the right eye clearly sees the fly through the opening of the peep site. At the same time, when aiming, the front sight is located strictly in the middle of the pip-site hole.

If everything is adjusted correctly, then your bow is almost ready for use. You just need to check the reach of the arrow from the shelf and zero the sight. The flight check is done at a distance of 3 meters from the shield. It is best to use a paper test to check the departure. To do this, a paper sheet is fixed directly in front of the shield (at a distance of 1 meter). Shooting through the sheet will show whether the arrow is clinging to the shelf or flying straight. This is determined by the slots of the arrow feathers. If the arrow leaves a perfect three slits coming out of the same point (for archers such a slit is called a "Mercedes"), then the shelf is adjusted correctly. If the falling shelf is adjusted incorrectly, then it is corrected in the direction of the arrow tail leaving.

Having received a Mercedes on a piece of paper, proceed to zeroing the sight. To do this, start shooting at the shield from a distance of 5-6 meters and gradually retreat to a greater distance (with a removal of the same 5-6 meters at a time), constantly firing arrows at the shield and making sure that the sight is adjusted accurately. If the arrows are flying higher, then the sight must be corrected up, if lower - down. Accordingly, if the arrows fall to the right, then we correct the sight to the right, to the left - to the left.

Your bow is ready to use. Shoot, have fun, improve. Do not forget to check the condition of the cables, bowstrings and release loops. The degree of wear of these parts of the bow depends on the frequency of use. To avoid unpleasant surprises, just check the condition of the cables, bowstrings and eyelets more often.