For raising and lowering the cab a pump mounted on the frame of the car is used.
Depending on the model and configuration of the vehicle, it is possible to install a tipping pump of various models. The position of the control handle for raising and lowering the cabin is indicated on the plate located on the pump body (see Fig. Plaque options).

During operation, it is necessary to ensure control over the oil level in the hydraulic lift system. The oil level should be between the marks indicated on the pump dipstick mounted in the pump reservoir housing.

Sign options

Raising the cab to the first position provides access to the engine during its maintenance.

Before raising the cab:

1. The cab tilting area must be free.
2. Brake the car with the parking brake system.
3. Set the gear shift lever to the neutral position (for the ZF 9S1310 gearbox, to the neutral middle position for engaging 3rd and 4th gears).
4. Turn off the additional heating (cabin air heater) or air conditioning.
5. Turn the key of the instrument switch and starter switch to position “0” - “Everything is off”.
6. Lower the steering column to the lower position (to prevent damage to parts of the adjustable steering column with pneumatic control).
7. Secure or remove all loose objects from the cab. Close all doors, drawers and compartments in the cabin.
8. Install wheel chocks to prevent the vehicle from rolling away.
9. Check that the towing forks have been removed.
10. Raise the front trim panel.

Cabin lift

1. Set the control knob on the hydraulic cab lift pump (see Fig. Tilting mechanism pump), depending on its model, to the CAB LIFT or UP ARROW position and, shaking the pump handle with a mounting blade, begin lifting the cab.

Tilting pump
1 - control knob; 2 - pump handle; 3 - pump probe

2. To prevent accidental lowering of the cab, secure the limiter posts with a locking pin.
Remove the locking pin from the transport position (from the hole in the lower pillar) until it touches the upper pillar (see Fig. Cab tilt limiter).

Cab tilt limiter
1 - upper stand; 2 - lower stand; 3 - locking pin

3. While pumping the pump handle with a mounting blade, continue lifting the cabin until the holes in the lower and upper pillars coincide. If these holes coincide, stop raising the cabin.
For cabins with hydraulic locks, the hydraulic locks open automatically when the pump is running.
For vehicles equipped with a gearbox with a telescopic drive, the lock of the telescopic elements opens automatically when the cab is raised.
4. Secure the limiter posts with a locking pin to prevent accidental lowering of the cab.

Attention!
When the engine is running and the cab is raised, the cooling system fan can be turned on automatically.
It is strictly prohibited to carry out any work in the fan area while the engine is running.

Lowering the cab

1. Remove the locking pin.
2. Set the handle on the pump, depending on its model, to the CAB LOWER or DOWN ARROW position and, shaking the pump handle with a mounting blade, begin lowering the cabin.
3. Insert the pin into the transport position into the hole in the lower post of the limiter.
4. Continuing to pump the pump handle with the mounting blade, lower the cabin. When the cab is lowered, the hydraulic locks close automatically and the cab is blocked from tipping over.
If at least one of the two hydraulic locks is not closed, the cabin lock indicator light on the instrument panel lights up.
For vehicles equipped with a gearbox with a telescopic drive, after lowering the cab, the lock of the telescopic elements must be closed to ensure a rigid connection between the lever and the rod. If the lock does not close, sharply press the gear lever handle forward until the telescope lock closes.

The MAZ cabin provides driver protection from cold, wind and precipitation. By its design, it is tiltable, which provides access to control units and the engine.

How the cabin works

The cabin is equipped with various systems, such as electronics, heating, air conditioning, which creates a comfortable environment for the operator.

The cabin is designed:

• for comfortable working conditions;
• to create a microclimate;
• to protect the operator from vibrations;
• to ensure driver rest;
• to create good visibility of the road surface.

Recently, the design of the MAZ cabin has been improved; soft seats, an upper berth, and springs under the driver's seat have appeared. The modern design consists of a frame, cladding and a tipping unit. Metal frame. In terms of overall dimensions, the structure can be small or large. The first one has no sleeping space.

These vehicles are used in cities for short-distance transportation. Oversized structures are installed on tractors; they have one or two berths. The basis of the structure is a welded metal frame. The frame is assembled from two sidewalls, two parts, a floor and a roof. Then they install doors equipped with side shields to protect the openings. The instrument panel is installed under the windshield. A windshield frame reinforcement has been added. There are 3 windshield wipers.

The interior trim hides the components of the radiator and other mechanisms. Since 1990, the interior has been equipped with plastic sidewalls and additional systems. The cladding is equipped with thermal insulation. At the front are the instrument panel and the ducts for supplying warm air from the heater. The seat is height adjustable.

Shock absorbers in the form of rubber bushings eliminate vibration. The cabin is tipped by a hydraulic cylinder spring. To activate the unit, press the lever. A thin cable protects the structure from excessive tipping.

Operation and Maintenance

The cabin is located above the engine. Maintenance and repair of components located under the cabin is carried out by tilting it 45º. When turned over, its gravity is balanced: the cabin is adjusted by springs, a limiter, and a locking mechanism.

See » Popular truck tractor MAZ-504 and its modifications

When operating a truck, you must ensure that the safety device, locking mechanism and its drive are in good working order.

When servicing, you need to tighten the fasteners, check the cotter pins of the parts, the operation of the springs and the limiter. It is necessary to carry out the necessary repairs and replace parts when they wear out. It is necessary to check the tightness of the side connection at the point where the cable is attached to the unit beam. The cost of repairs in service centers is low, since the necessary spare parts are available.

How to raise the cab

You can raise the cab as follows:

1. First you need to move the gear shift lever to neutral.
2. Then remove the cable from the pin and remove the fastenings of the facing grille.
3. Use the handle to open the locking mechanism.
4. To raise the mechanism, you need to turn the distributor handle to the lift position.

How nice it is to take a cool shower on a hot day! And after a hard day at work, relax under a warm stream of water! Shower cabins are a good opportunity to experience such pleasant moments. I must say that this is also an alternative option for many. Some people, in principle, do not accept a bath; for others, the space does not allow them to have one, but a cubicle is quite appropriate. Other reasons also allow the general public to have this miracle of nature - a shower stall. There are so many models! Both with hydromassage and steam functions. Yes, this is no longer a shower cabin at all, but a hydromassage and a steam room! You can even find out the latest news while basking under the running water and turning on the built-in FM receiver.

But now let’s pay attention to installing this device in your apartment

and, in particular, for a situation where the sewer outlet is located quite high and in order for there to be normal flow into the sewer, it is necessary to raise the cabin well above the floor level.

Firstly, why would this happen? The passion for redevelopment, which has literally flooded the minds of many homeowners, leads to the fact that this device for taking a shower and listening to the news can gradually move further and further away from the sewer riser. This means that in order to have a good drainage, the outlet for the sewerage for the shower stall needs to be raised higher and higher. Well, and the cabin itself, respectively.

Another reason is that such booths are installed in places for which they are not intended at all. For example, in many corridor-type dormitories that existed in Soviet times, now they are no longer inhabited by residents with temporary registration, but by owners who managed to privatize the rooms. And the amenities are in the hallway. Some, however, strive to extend water supply pipes and sewerage into their room. Then the issue of personal hygiene can be resolved without going out into the corridor. A shower cabin will help. Yes, a long sewer line again requires an additional rise of such a cabin above sea level.

So, it doesn’t matter why, it’s still important what to do if you need to raise the shower stall above the floor level.

The usual option is when people build a podium for a shower stall. But it's not always that simple.

• firstly, labor costs;
• secondly, an additional headache.

If there is a podium, which one? What it will look like, what shape it will be, and so on. Design, you see, is not an easy thing. There is also a reason to be wary of this option, since for various reasons such podiums had to be dismantled over time.

How to raise a shower stall? What's the alternative?

She is. True, it is not suitable for all models, but for those in which the tray is installed on a metal frame. Such a frame made of a profile pipe has screwed-in legs in the form of studs, that is, threaded rods. These legs, by rotating, can, to some extent, adjust the installation height of the pallet and, accordingly, the cabin itself. But the height changes slightly. Your version requires more. A simple solution looks like this. Buy a stud of the same diameter and with the same thread.

Use a hacksaw to cut the studs to the length you need. Now you throw out the legs that were included and screw in your own.

Of course, leave the rubber supports that fit on the heels and stand on the floor and put them on the new legs. That's all!

The positive thing is speed and pressure! Now you don’t need any podium for your shower stall!

The negative point is that a wonderful gap appears between the pallet and the floor. But it must be said that for many, convenience and simplicity cover up the emerging shortcomings. And if you don’t find fault, then the space between the floor and the pallet can even look quite natural.

It's as if it was meant to be! A design step, you know. What do you think?

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Raising the shower stall

The need to raise the shower stall may arise for various reasons. Most often this is due to redevelopment in the bathroom and installation of a shower stall in a place distant from the riser.

When remodeling the water supply, problems arise with the normal operation of the drain; for this purpose, a lift is installed under the shower stall.

In such cases, to ensure normal operation of the drain, you need to raise it above the sewer. How to raise a shower stall, what options there are for this and what features each of them has, you will learn in this article.

Option one - podium in stiletto heels

This option is not suitable for all models, but only for those whose tray is installed on a metal frame. The design in this version is supported by screwed-in legs in the form of studs, which are actually threaded rods. These rods can be used to adjust the height, but sometimes this is not enough. Therefore, you can simply buy a rod of the same diameter and with the appropriate thread.

Shower stall size diagram.

A hairpin and a hacksaw are all you need to get it to the height you need. Well, and of course, a little skill in using a hacksaw.

Take a hacksaw and cut new legs for the shower stall to the length you need. Unscrew the old studs, remove the rubber supports from them and put them on the cut rods.

Now all you have to do is screw the studs into place. Thus, you will very quickly cope with the problem of raising the shower stall to the level you need. There are no installation subtleties or impossible actions in this work. Even those who have never held an instrument in their hands can handle it. It is only important to measure exactly how high your shower needs to be raised.

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Option two - pallet

This option has its own characteristics. First of all, they consist in the fact that you can cope with this work in a very short time. Before you start work, you need to decide again at what height you need to raise the shower stall.

Diagram of a floor with a pallet.

• this is quite simple to do: you need to raise it above the sewer to such a height that drainage is ensured. Here you will need corrugation. Just install it in place of the drain, prepare the water;

Pour water into the bathtub from the shower and see at what level the drainage will be quite intense. Naturally, at this stage you cannot do without assistants. You can also make calculations or clarify this point with a professional plumber.

In any case, the lifting height must be verified and not invented at random. It can be different, but usually 15 cm is enough. At this height, it will be very convenient to use foam concrete, since the height of the block is exactly 15 cm. But there are blocks of lesser thickness, and the missing height can be achieved with ordinary bricks.

• The next step is to create a template for the bottom of your shower stall. Since you will need this size more than once, you should transfer it to a piece of plywood or drywall;

The template can be made of any material, even ordinary oilcloth. It is important that its dimensions are accurate and true. Otherwise, of course, you will be able to build a tray, but it will not fit the size of your shower stall.

To maintain the greatest accuracy, you just need to place the bathtub from the shower cabin on the selected material and trace it along the contour. Then we take a tool that matches the material and cut out the template.

Cabin layout diagram.

• now place the template in the place where you will have a shower stall, transfer the outline to the floor;

In further work you will need a solution, which can be prepared in the following way:

• tile adhesive – 70%;
• assembly adhesive – 30%;
• water.

In this case, you need water to dilute the mixture to the consistency of thin sour cream. This will give you time to develop it, since the mixture hardens very quickly, from 5 to 7 minutes.

The peculiarities of this solution do not allow you to mix the entire composition at once, so do it in small parts. This is even more important if you have never worked with such quick-drying mixtures before.

If you are afraid that you may not succeed and there is enough time for installation, then you can use a regular solution. The installation principle does not change - the time just increases.

1. We prime the contour on the floor, cover it with a solution and lay foam concrete or the material that you chose to build the pallet on it.
2. We lay the template on the foam concrete block and level the edges with a thick mortar. To create a thick solution, you will simply need to add as little or no water to it as possible. Be sure to use a level to level the edges.
3. After aligning the edges, wait until the solution has completely set and remove the template. Focusing on the edges, in this case they will replace the beacons for you, level the top so that the pallet is perfectly level.
4. Then we lay out the tiles on the dried surface, place the template again and draw the outline. The tile is cut along the contour and glued.

Thus, if you have all the materials prepared in advance, you will be able to build a pallet of the height you need in a very short time.

From the author: Hello, dear readers! In recent years, the construction market has become more and more diverse, new interesting materials are appearing that greatly facilitate the process of carrying out repair work. In this regard, more and more people began to make global redevelopments, trying to bring the level of comfort of their home closer to the ideal.

This is, of course, a worthy cause if all the work is done “wisely.” That is, for example, do not move load-bearing walls. But this is already known to almost everyone, so practically no problems arise. But when it comes to re-equipment, sometimes the mind gives way to the desire for comfort, and we get a completely different result than we expected. For example, one of my friends was recently forced to hastily learn how to raise a shower stall.

The fact is that he acquired a new home, which had a fairly large bathroom. Such a space is simply a dream, especially for those who spent a significant part of their lives huddled in Khrushchev-era apartment buildings.

So my friend decided to make the most of this space: a huge bathtub, beautiful cabinets and shelves, rugs and lamps, as well as a wonderful shower. He placed all these elements as his imagination told him, and did not rely on anything else.

However, plumbing work is a delicate matter, despite all its apparent simplicity. As soon as my friend began to directly use his new shower stall, he was surprised to discover that the water flowed out rather poorly.

When I saw his bathroom, I immediately understood the cause of the problem. The shower stall was placed in the corner opposite from the one in which the sewer hole was located. Considering the dimensions of the room, it was obvious that at such a distance a decent slope from the siphon to the sewer outlet was necessary. But this was not provided during installation.

Naturally, the water drained was simply disgusting. Therefore, we had to urgently solve the problem so that our friend could finally fully enjoy the comfort of the new one. In general, there are two ways to solve this issue: with and without a podium. Today I will tell you about both, so that if necessary, you can choose the one that is best suited for your situation.

Using studs

This is the simplest option on how to raise an already assembled booth higher without disassembling it. But it won't suit everyone. To understand whether this method is relevant for you, inspect the shower tray. Quite often, they are installed using a metal frame into which the legs are screwed.

These legs are threaded metal rods called studs. At one end they are fixed in the frame, and at the other there are special plastic stands, with the help of which the structure is placed on the floor.

These legs are adjustable. Their length can be changed using a regular wrench. If you turn the pin clockwise with it, it will become shorter, and if counterclockwise, then vice versa. In some cases, this procedure is quite enough to raise it to the desired height.

But this is relevant in a situation where you need to gain an extra couple of centimeters. If, for example, you need to raise the tray by 10 cm or more, then adjustment is not enough, since the length of the legs is simply not enough for this. There are two ways out of this situation:

• buy new studs of the required length and replace the existing ones with them. This is easy to do: unscrew the old ones, screw in the new ones;
• If you can’t find the required length, you can buy longer ones and simply cut off the excess. To do this you will need a hacksaw. After cutting, install the legs in exactly the same way as in the previous version: put on plastic stands, fix the studs in the frame and secure with locknuts.

Once you have installed all the studs in their rightful place, you need to adjust their height so that the shower tray is perfectly level. To do this, be sure to use a building level. An uneven installation can lead to repeated problems with draining water into the sewer.

Construction of the podium

If the option of raising the cabin on heels does not suit you for some reason, then there is another method of solving the problem - erecting a podium, on which you will then place the pallet. This procedure, of course, is more complicated than simply twisting the legs, but it is quite possible to cope with it. True, at the first stage you will need the help of two or three comrades.

The first thing you need to do is determine exactly what height you need to raise your shower stall to. To do this, let's conduct a test. Take a corrugated pipe and connect one end to the sewer and the other to the drain hole in the pan. The latter must be placed exactly in the place where it will stand in the future.

But now your friends will come in handy. They need to take the tray and gradually lift it, while you pour water into it and watch how it goes away. You need to “catch” the height at which the drain will be carried out at the optimal speed. Once this happens, measure the distance to the floor. This is exactly the height the podium should be.

As a rule, fifteen centimeters is enough. Now you can temporarily remove the pallet to the side and begin work on constructing the necessary structure. I recommend using foam blocks as a material. They are quite durable, quite waterproof and will not put a strain on the family budget. The standard height of the block is exactly 15 cm. But if necessary, you can find smaller options, or even replace them altogether.

1. We make a template to ensure the accuracy of further work. For this you will need a sheet of plywood. Place the shower tray upside down on it and trace the outline, then carefully cut out using a jigsaw. You can, of course, take regular cardboard instead of plywood, but such a template will be less reliable, since during use (and it will be repeated) it can become wrinkled, frayed, etc. We place the cut out figure exactly in the place where we plan to place the pallet.
2. Prepare the adhesive solution. To do this, we take tile and assembly adhesive. The content of the former in the solution is 70%, and the latter 30%. Mix, then dilute the resulting composition with clean water. You should end up with a solution that has a consistency similar to runny sour cream. Please note that you should not dilute the entire volume of available ingredients at once, since the hardening time of the solution is quite short. The portion should be such that you can use it in a maximum of 10 minutes.
3. We move on to the template laid in place. We trace its outline with a marker on the floor. After this we remove the template.
4. We prime the drawn figure, wait for it to dry, then cover it with the prepared adhesive composition.
5. We lay foam blocks, filling the entire outlined contour. Just be sure to leave room for the drain pipe; to do this, take careful measurements of the pan.
6. After the contour is filled, we take the template again and place it on foam concrete blocks. We use it to align the edges. To do this, you should make a new portion of the adhesive solution, but use a minimal amount of water, or even do without it. The mixture should be very thick. To ensure perfectly smooth edges, use a building level while working. When the leveling is complete, wait until the solution hardens, then remove the template.
7. Now you need to level the top of the structure. During the process, also carefully monitor the evenness.
8. After the top layer has dried, we lay ceramic tiles on the podium, which will serve as a finishing material. First we lay it down without fixing it. When the entire surface of the podium is covered, take the template again, place it on top and trace the edges with a marker.
9. Then we remove the template and cut the outer tiles along the drawn contour.
10. Finally, glue the tiles.

All you have to do is wait for the tile adhesive to dry, and you can install the pallet in its rightful place. You can read about how to connect it in our other articles. I think you can now definitely cope with raising the cabin.

Of course, the method without a podium is much easier. But if you need to rise to a height greater than the studs allow, then there’s nothing you can do about it, you’ll have to work a little. If the rise is too large, then it is advisable to make it with a step so that all family members can comfortably climb into the booth. The step is made according to the same principle as the podium itself: foam blocks, glue, tiles. I am sure that you will cope with this very well. Good luck!