This method is the most economical and accessible to everyone. You can get a large number of new plants at absolutely no financial cost. But for this you need to try hard, providing decent care to the planted seeds and seedlings subsequently. But the whole process can be constantly observed and only really strong, healthy bushes can be planted in the garden, discarding those that are less hardy and winter-hardy.

A significant drawback of the method is the long wait for flowering - rhododendrons from seeds bloom at best in the 4th year after planting. For some species, the waiting period is as much as 8-10 years.

Seeds can be collected after they have ripened from the bush in late autumn or early winter, dried and stored in a paper bag until planting, or simply bought at a specialized center.

At the end of winter - March, the seeds are sown in prepared boxes with a light, breathable substrate. Containers, soil, drainage are pre-disinfected by treating the sowing boxes with strong potassium permanganate or “White”, and the soil and drainage with high temperatures.

Seeds are not buried in the ground, placed on the surface, and be sure to create a mini-greenhouse in any available way. Young sprouts must be hardened off and kept outside, transplanted into special beds or large containers. For the winter, plants are well covered without being brought home.

Next spring, the grown and strengthened bushes are transplanted to a permanent place for further development.

As you can see, the method is quite labor-intensive. Growing healthy, beautiful plants takes a lot of effort and care.

Detailed information on how to sow rhododendron seeds is in the video below:

Cuttings

A very time-consuming process that does not guarantee results. Rooting of cuttings occurs slowly and reluctantly.

Therefore, it is simply necessary to use root formation stimulants. Cuttings are more suitable for winter-hardy species with large flowers and dwarf forms with small leaves. But the rooted plants begin to bloom the following spring.

You can take cuttings throughout the summer. Typically, shoots that are fully formed and partially lignified are used. In some species it can be propagated by green young branches. Cuttings taken from the top of the shoot take root most easily.

The chopped branches are freed from the apical bud and all leaves except the top pair, and soaked in any root formation or growth stimulant. Epin, heteroauxin, zircon, succinic acid and IBA are quite suitable. The shoots are kept in solution at least 11-13 hours.

Then The rhododendron cuttings are placed in a light substrate with an acidic reaction. It is obtained by mixing coniferous soil with rotted needles, red peat, and fine sand. The containers are placed in a small greenhouse or covered with cans and bottle halves, creating constant humidity and heat. To avoid mold, the cuttings are periodically treated with any fungicide.

The process of root formation takes from 1 to 4 months, depending on the type of rhododendron. Typically, deciduous shrubs root much faster than evergreen ones. In the spring, the shoots are transplanted into a specially equipped bed, growing them in natural conditions for another year before transplanting to “permanent residence”.

Rhododendron propagation by cuttings photo

By layering

The easiest and most hassle-free way the main disadvantage of which is the very small number of new plants.

But it does not require costs - neither physical nor financial, nor the use of any additional means and devices. In addition, under natural conditions, rooting occurs much faster than in a home greenhouse. If you make layering in June, they will produce roots by August.

Any healthy branch of an adult rhododendron is bent to the ground surface and secured in this position with wire or a clamp. The middle part is sprinkled with soil, having first made a small cut on it, and the top is tied to a small peg. The only thing you need to do in the future is to water the layering in time to stimulate root formation. As with cuttings, the ground should always be damp.

You can separate a new plant in the fall or next year. The mother shoot is cut off, the daughter bush is dug up and transplanted to the chosen location.

Advice from an experienced gardener: Do not replant a new bush in hot weather - the rhododendron will take root and acclimatize much worse. The optimal air temperature should not exceed 22-24°.

Vaccination

The method is suitable for any species, not only deciduous, but also evergreen, which take root difficultly and for a long time.

Grafting helps even in cases where cuttings or other methods are impossible; it is considered the most guaranteed and safest method.

A healthy graft shoot is attached to the rootstock, placing it as close as possible to the root collar. The procedure is carried out in the spring, most often in the first half of April, summer or autumn. The instrument must be well sharpened and disinfected; during the operation it is necessary to maintain exceptional cleanliness of hands, plants and instruments.

Grafted rhododendrons are kept in a greenhouse or greenhouse, in conditions of continuous humidity and heat of at least 25°. Transplantation outside is carried out after a couple of years, when the bush has formed and become stronger.

Dividing the bush

The method is used quite rarely, since few new plants are obtained. Usually it is used only by amateur flower growers. The advantages include technical ease of the procedure. The mother bush is dug out of the ground and separated with a shovel into separate parts with roots. If the roots are small, use a sharp knife or pruning shears.

Bushes with a well-developed root system are sent to a nursery for a couple of years for strengthening and growing. Rhododendrons with weak small roots are placed in a greenhouse, having previously been planted in a pot of suitable size. Old plants that are bare below are also sent to the nursery. Here they will grow leaves, grow stronger and acquire new shoots.

Transfer

When can rhododendron be replanted? You can replant rhododendrons any age- They tolerate a change of residence very well.

The most suitable time is spring, before active growth of the bush begins, that is, when it just begins to awaken after winter rest.

In our climate, this is the second half of April - the first ten days of May.

Transplanting rhododendron in the fall: is it possible?

It is not forbidden to replant rhododendrons both in summer and early autumn. The most important thing is that the root system has time to take root in the new place before the cold weather.

IMPORTANT! The procedure is not carried out during the flowering period of the bush and in the second half of autumn.

Step-by-step instructions for transplantation.

1. Choose a place for rhododendron.
2. Dig up a bush and examine its roots, determine its size and condition. If the root ball is dry, immerse it in a container of water for a couple of hours.
3. Prepare the planting hole. The new pit should be times 1.5-2 deeper and wider root system of the bush.
4. Prepare good soil. To do this, mix sphagnum or high peat, rotted manure, coniferous or heather soil, crushed moss and small pebbles to loosen the substrate.
5. Cover the bottom of the hole with a layer of drainage. For it they take broken red brick, expanded clay, river or sea pebbles, and pieces of granite. You cannot use limestone, concrete fragments, or pieces of white brick - they have a pronounced alkaline reaction, which is contraindicated for rhododendrons.
6. Place the rhododendron bush in a hole, leaving the root collar open. Straighten the roots and cover with soil. The layer of soil above the roots is made quite thin - up to 5 cm thick.
7. Create a border with high edges around the transplanted bush so that when watering, water does not spread around, but falls directly on the roots of the plant.
8. It is very good to shed the planted rhododendron with soft water using at least 7 -10 liters.
9. Mulch the soil under the bush with oak leaves, pine needles, and peat.
10. Remove all existing buds so that the plant does not waste energy on flowering. It must take root in a new place and develop a root system.
11. If the bush is single, not covered by other plants and buildings, next to it put up a support so that it is not damaged by the wind. After rooting, the stick can be removed.

Conclusion

It's not that hard to fill your entire garden with rhododendrons! Always can be picked up a propagation method that is right for you and your garden. And if you find it difficult, remember that seed method considered the best among experienced flower growers. Good luck!

Useful video

More details about growing rhododendron in the video below:

Rhododendron is a shrub of amazing beauty. It pleases not only with its lush flowering, but also impresses with the exquisite greenery of its leaves. But for many gardeners, rhododendron is a pipe dream. Some are afraid to settle the plant on the site, considering it capricious and demanding. Others cannot choose a variety that matches the climatic characteristics of the region. But, having settled it once, the summer resident cannot refuse to grow flowering shrubs. And then the question arises of how rhododendron reproduces, because getting another flowering specimen is the ultimate dream.

The propagation process of rhododendrons is not much different from other crops. But the gardener should remember that the plant takes a long time to develop. And therefore The best way to become the happy owner of a shrub is to plant a seedling. But if this is not possible or a varietal crop is already growing on the site and it is necessary to obtain seedlings from it, it is worth resorting to vegetative or seed propagation methods.

The method of propagation of rhododendron depends on the type of shrub. Species and wild specimens reproduce both vegetatively and by seed. , as well as their hybrids, are grown exclusively vegetatively, since seed cultivation does not preserve the maternal characteristics of the plant.

The most common methods are:

• Cuttings of shoots.
• Layerings.
• Seeds.

Like most other shrubs, rhododendrons in nature reproduce mainly by seeds and less often by layering. In culture, in addition to propagation by seeds and layering, cuttings, propagation by dividing the bush and grafting are also used. The preferred method of propagation depends on the species, and in some cases even on the variety.

Propagation of rhododendrons by seeds quite a labor-intensive and painstaking task. In addition, there is another significant drawback: plants grown from seeds bloom for the first time only in the 4-10th year of life.

But this is the best way to adapt rhododendrons to new climatic conditions, and it is generally preferable to propagate wild species by seeds.

Rhododendron seeds ripen from late October to early November until frost. You need to collect the seed boxes at the right time, when their tops begin to turn brown, but they themselves are still green, since when fully ripe, the boxes crack and the seeds spill out. Boxes with seeds are placed in a warm, dry place for ripening.

The best time to sow rhododendron seeds is late February - early March. Sow seeds in shallow bowls or small wooden boxes, plastic containers 5-6 cm high. In this case, the soil should be 1-1.5 cm below the edge.

For seed germination, the composition of the soil does not play a big role, since the growing embryo feeds on the reserves accumulated in the seed. But still, the best substrate for sowing is a mixture of litter peat with semi-rotted pine needles in a 1:1 ratio. It is loose, air- and water-permeable, does not compact for a long time, and has an acidic reaction.

Seeds should be sown on top of the soil, otherwise they will not germinate. To scatter the seeds more evenly over the surface, they are mixed with sand. Immediately after sowing, the seeds are watered generously from a spray bottle and covered with glass. Under favorable conditions (at a temperature of 8-15 and a relative air humidity of about 30%), the first shoots appear on the 7-10th day, and after two to three weeks (depending on the species), massive small shoots appear.

They are watered as needed, abundantly, but not often, from a spray bottle with distilled, snow or rain water at the same temperature as the air in the room. Not only dryness is dangerous, but also overmoistening, which causes rotting and black leg. If a focus of infection appears, it should be immediately sprinkled with foundation, otherwise the seedlings will die within a few days.

During the germination period, rhododendrons need a lot of light. In the dark, even under the most favorable conditions, they will not sprout, so fluorescent lamps can be used for additional lighting. But in spring and summer they need to be shaded from the bright sun with lutrasil or gauze. After most of the seeds have sprouted, they are accustomed to the open air and placed in a cooler place.

When the seedlings reach a size at which they can be grasped with your fingers, they are dived into a loose acidic organic substrate at a distance of 3-5 cm, buried almost along the cotyledons. This promotes the development of a good root system. 2-3 weeks after the seedlings take root, fertilize with complete mineral fertilizer (ammonium sulfate, superphosphate and potassium sulfate) in a ratio of 3:1:2. 3-4 g of the prepared mixture are diluted in 1 liter of water.

In the first year of life, rhododendrons grow slowly, their height does not exceed 6-10 cm. For the winter, it is recommended to leave the seedlings in a cool greenhouse, but not in an apartment, where in winter, by the standards of plants, it is too hot, dark and dry. If there are no such conditions, you can leave them in the garden. But it should be noted that seedlings are less winter-hardy than adult plants. Therefore, in order to protect the seedlings from freezing, they must be covered with a leaf or spruce branches.

In the second year of cultivation, seedlings are fed 2 times with a 5% solution of complete mineral fertilizer (in spring and mid-summer). Similar care in the third year.

Reproduction by layering It is considered the simplest and most effective method of reproduction not only in nature, but also in culture. This way you can propagate both species and varietal plants. This method is especially suitable for breeding alpine species that have creeping, creeping stems (for example, Kamchatka rhododendron).

In July-August, one of the side shoots is bent to the ground in a previously made and loosened groove so that it can be fixed in the hole at a distance of 30-40 cm from the top. In the most curved place, make a cut several millimeters deep and about 4 cm long and sprinkle it with earth. On the part of the shoot that is covered with soil, all leaves and all flower buds are removed. The top of the shoot is given a vertical position by tying it to a peg. The shoot at the bend is sprinkled with substrate and watered during the rooting period.

For better root formation, shoots of the current year should be bent. Usually after 2-3 years the cuttings are ready to be separated from the mother bush and transplanted to a permanent place.

The disadvantage of this breeding method is that only a small number of specimens are obtained, and in terms of durability, the breeding specimens are inferior to those grown by seed. Therefore, this method is suitable only for amateur gardening, for selection, and is not suitable for large-scale propagation of rhododendrons.

Reproduction by division- the most controversial method of reproduction. Its technique is simple, but, as in the previous case, its disadvantage is the single number of plant specimens obtained as a result of dividing the bush. In this case, the mother bush is also damaged.

This method is only suitable for overgrown bushes with many shoots. Dividing is best done in the spring before growth begins. Each part of the divided bush must have developed and intact roots and at least one shoot.

Depending on the number of shoots, the mother bush is divided into several parts with a shovel. Each part of the divided bush must have developed and intact roots and at least one shoot. Small roots at the base are separated with a sharp knife. Having divided the bush, its individual parts are planted in well-prepared soil in a nursery, where they remain for at least a year. During this time, new shoots appear at the base of the separated plants, and the natural formation of the bush begins.

Propagation by cuttings It is attractive because rooted cuttings of rhododendron can bloom the very next year. In addition, you can get a large amount of planting material.

It is recommended to propagate by cuttings all types and varieties of evergreen small-leaved rhododendrons, which, as a rule, take root well and bloom profusely. Species and varieties with purple flowers take root better than others, rhododendrons with red flowers take root the worst.

Before starting cuttings, prepare a soil mixture to avoid later, before planting, unwanted delays and drying out of the plant material. Mix equal parts of coarse sand (without limestone) and sifted peat. Fill the pot with this mixture and compact it slightly so that it is 1 cm below the edges of the pot.

The material for vegetative propagation is flexible, rather thin annual semi-lignified shoots. The cuttings are cut 5-8 cm long, the lower leaves are removed, and the top 2-3 leaves are left completely. It must be remembered that cuttings from the apical part of the shoot give a higher percentage of rooting than from the lower part. In order not to damage the exposed tissue of the lower part of the cuttings, a hole in the substrate for each of them is made using a pointed stick. A cutting is inserted into the hole, deepening it by 2-3 cm.

Rhododendrons take root quite difficult, so it is better to treat the cuttings with some kind of root formation stimulator, for example, heteroauxin, indolylbutyric or succinic acid. This treatment of cuttings with growth substances accelerates the process of root formation and significantly increases the number of roots on the cutting.

Rooted cuttings are planted in autumn in boxes filled with a soil mixture that includes: acidic peat, pine litter, leaf soil, sand in a ratio of 2:1:2:1. In the autumn-winter period, it is better to store them in a basement or greenhouse at a temperature of up to 5°. At the end of May or early June, rooted cuttings can be planted in open ground on a garden bed, shading the seedlings from direct sunlight

After keeping the seedlings in the nursery for two to three years, when the plants have good growth and are most decorative, they can be planted in a permanent place.

Graft- one of the most reliable and widespread methods of vegetative propagation of rhododendrons, both deciduous and evergreen, and is used for slow-growing species and varieties, as well as for species that are not propagated by other methods, and in cases where it is necessary to preserve varietal characteristics.

Rhododendrons can be grafted in both winter and summer, especially deciduous species. The advantage of summer grafting is that grafted plants do not require a heated greenhouse; they can be placed directly in greenhouses.

Deciduous rhododendrons are best planted in June or the first half of July, and evergreen ones in August and the first half of September.

Semi-lignified shoots of the current year with upper leaves that have not reached their maximum size are used as a scion. Such scions easily form callus and, after grafting, grow well with the rootstock.

The age of the rootstock should be 3-5 years, and the thickness at the grafting site should be approximately 8-10 mm in diameter.

A few hours before grafting, the rootstocks are well watered, and if necessary, the entire root ball is thoroughly soaked.

The grafting is carried out as close to the root collar as possible, and in a permanent place in the ground the plants are planted somewhat deeper than usual. Over the course of several years, the cutting above the grafting site forms its own roots, and gradually the root system of the rootstock is replaced by the root system of the scion.

One of the most common grafting methods is simple copulation, in which the rootstock and scion should, if possible, have the same thickness.

Before grafting, the rootstock is cut to a height of approximately 5 cm, then an oblique copulating cut is made on the rootstock and scion, the rootstock is connected to the scion so that their cuts completely coincide and the grafting site is bandaged. After combining the oblique cuts of the rootstock and scion, the grafting site is tied so that the scion is tightly adjacent to the rootstock. As a dressing material, you can use natural linden bast, thick cotton or woolen threads, or plastic insulating tape.

Rhodendrons can be propagated either vegetatively or by seed. The second method is more labor-intensive and is only suitable for species-specific rhododendrons.

Propagation by cuttings

Rhododendron cuttings for rooting

Propagation of rhododendrons by cuttings is a rather labor-intensive and, most importantly, lengthy process, but this method allows you to preserve all the varietal characteristics of the plant.

Since rhododendron cuttings take root poorly and reluctantly, it is imperative to use various root stimulants, for example Kornevin, which is simply used to powder the cut.

The cutting process can be carried out throughout the summer. Green shoots that have begun to become lignified are suitable for cuttings.

The stalk should be no more than 10 cm long. All leaves are removed from it except the top 1-2 pairs.

For better rooting, the lower cut is made oblique, almost under the bud itself.

After treating the cuttings with stimulants, they are stuck diagonally with pre-prepared soil and covered with a jar or bag.

The cuttings need to be constantly ventilated, and to prevent the appearance of mold and rot in conditions of high humidity, it is necessary to treat them with fungicidal agents several times.

The rooting process takes from 1 to 4 months. Cuttings from deciduous forms of rhododendron take root faster and more readily; in evergreen forms, the survival rate of cuttings is significantly lower, at least at home.

Those cuttings that are taken from the top of the shoot take root best.

You can learn more clearly about how to cut rhododendron by watching a video about it:

Growing from seeds

Growing rhododendrons from seeds is justified by the fact that there are mainly hybrid varieties on sale, the winter hardiness of which leaves much to be desired. Species rhododendrons, on the contrary, have the ability to withstand winters in our climate, but they can very rarely be found on sale. Therefore, one of the ways to have such a rhododendron in your garden is to plant it with seeds.

Another undoubted advantage of seed propagation of rhododendron is that the seedling will grow in the conditions where it will be located, that is, it will be acclimatized.

The following types of rhodendrons can be grown from seeds:

1. Daurian;
2. rusty;
3. Schlippenbach;
4. yellow;
5. Japanese.

First of all, you need to choose the right soil for planting rhododendron seeds. He loves acidic soils, so for planting they take a mixture of sand, peat, humus and coniferous soil in a ratio of 1:1:1:1.

The seeds of rhododendrons are very small, so they need to be planted superficially; before doing this, the soil must be moistened.

Unlike many other ornamental shrubs, rhododendron seeds for germination do not need stratification.

After planting, the seeds are kept in the light at a temperature of 20-25 degrees. To maintain moisture, the container with seeds should be covered with glass or placed in a plastic bag. But you need to constantly remove the condensation that forms, otherwise the seeds may not germinate due to excessive moisture.

After the first shoots appear, it is necessary lower temperatures to 10-12 degrees. It will be optimal for the good development of seedlings.

Note! Seeds of different types have different germination times. Some germinate in 5-10 days, while others take a month. Even seeds of the same variety may germinate unevenly; the first and last shoots may appear three weeks apart.

In order for the seedlings obtained from seeds to be as strong as possible by the onset of the first winter, planting is carried out as early as possible, starting in December. But at the same time, it is necessary to organize additional lighting. Daylight hours for seedlings should be 12-14 hours.

Young rhododendron seedlings

After the appearance of two true leaves, the seedlings dive. It is advisable to immediately plant each plant in a separate cup, so as not to further injure the root system.

You can also keep young plants in a frost-free room during the first winter. But in order to preserve the plant in winter and not weaken it, a low temperature is needed, about 8-10 degrees.

If the seedlings remain in the apartment, then they are placed on the window as close to the glass as possible.

If it is not possible to collect rhododendron seeds yourself, you can purchase them at the store. Autumn or early winter is the best time to buy rhododendron seeds, since there is a high probability of purchasing freshly collected seeds that have not yet been spoiled by improper storage.

Care

Let's look at how to care for garden rhododendrons. Indoor rhododendrons (azaleas) do not differ much in requirements from frost-resistant rhododendrons, although there are undoubtedly nuances.

General rules

1. Watering rhododendron is a must during dry summers., otherwise it will bloom very little and for a short time. It is very important that the soil under the rhododendron bush is always moist, but it should not be planted in lowlands, since it does not tolerate stagnant water.
2. Every year after flowering you need feed rhododendron with mineral fertilizers, but avoid ash, which significantly reduces the acidity of the soil.
3. Formation and care of the crown of the bush- another important event. If you do not constantly remove dry branches and faded inflorescences, they will take away all the strength of the bush, and it will practically stop blooming. To do this, you need to carry out sanitary pruning of the bush.

Soil for rhodendrons

Choosing soil for rhododendron is the most crucial moment when planting, since it will not be able to grow and fully develop in all types of soil. There is no particular difference between the types of rhododendrons in this sense, that is, the recommendations below are suitable for any type, including deciduous rhododendrons (Daurian, yellow, Japanese).

The land in which rhododendron will be grown must have the following properties:

• have an acidic reaction;
• be well drained and light;
• always be wet.

If the soil at the rhododendron planting site is heavy clay, sand and perlite are mixed in.

To acidify the soil, spruce litter or peat is added.

On heavy clay soils, you should not use peat as an acidifier, since it will retain moisture, which in turn will contribute to acidification of the soil.

Wintering

Mulch for covering plants for the winter

Since most hybrid species of rhododendron come from southern varieties, in the Middle Zone and especially in Siberia, they need shelter for the winter.

For proper shelter, preparations should begin in the fall.

For successful wintering, the soil under the bush must be moist, so if autumn is dry, the plant must be watered regularly.

The second stage of preparation is mulching the tree trunk circle. You can use spruce litter, peat or spruce sawdust as mulch.

If the bush is large enough, arches are installed above it in advance and subsequently covered with several layers of lutrasil. A small bush can be covered with a cardboard box or a hut made of spruce branches can be built.

Diseases of rhododendrons and their treatment

Rhodendrons are quite often attacked by various pests and affected by diseases. First of all, this happens when this plant is not properly cared for.

Main diseases of rhododendron:

1. Trachemiocosis, another name for this disease is vascular wilting. This is a fungal disease. The main signs of damage appear in the form of the appearance of a gray coating on the stems and leaves, which very quickly begin to dry out. The main danger of this disease is metabolic disorders in the plant and rapid rotting of the root system.

At the first signs of trachemyocosis, you need to cut off the affected parts and destroy them. Under no circumstances should you throw them into the compost heap. After removing parts with a gray coating, the entire bush should be generously sprayed with Bordeaux mixture.

In addition to being affected by various diseases, rhododendron can be attacked by insect pests.

Main insect pests:

These are the main pests and diseases dangerous to rhododendron. Since this plant is very sensitive to all diseases, disease prevention is an integral part of rhododendron care.

Video consultation

If there is no rhododendron in the garden plot, then you will have to buy the first bush. But then you can propagate rhododendron in various ways and change with your neighbors, increasing your collection of flowering shrubs. Growing a new plant will not be quick, but you can save a lot on purchasing plants from a nursery.

Propagation of rhododendron by cuttings

Growing shrubs using the cutting method is the best option. This is not difficult to do, and the planted plants will begin to bloom in the 2nd year.

Cuttings are harvested from the third ten days of May until the second ten days of June. It is better to take annual branches.

For beginners, it is best to use the cutting method. It won't take much time, but will give the desired result.

Sequencing:

1. Cuttings are cut from 8 to 15 cm long, the lower cut is made at an angle of 45°. A few leaves are left at the top, and the lower ones are removed.
2. The branches are placed in the solution for a day. You can skip this procedure, but then the rooting process will be slower.
3. Prepare small containers with soil. The soil should be loose and acidic, so peat, pine needles, and sand should be added to it.
4. The soil is compacted a little. Rhododendron branches are inserted at an angle of approximately 30°. The soil around them is pressed down and the pots are watered.
5. To form roots, cuttings need warmth and humidity. The room temperature should be +22°C to +25°C, and the place should be well lit. For high humidity, containers are placed in a greenhouse made of polymer film.
6. The greenhouse must be regularly ventilated and the soil moistened if necessary. This way the branches can be kept for up to 3 months.

With this method of propagation, rooted plants will only be obtained by autumn; they cannot be planted in garden beds.

The cuttings should be transplanted into larger containers and left for the first winter in a room with a temperature of +12°C to +15°C. Water as needed. They are planted in a permanent place with the arrival of spring.

Propagation of rhododendron by seeds

The seeds of the plant can be bought or collected on your own when they ripen in late autumn. The box itself and the grains inside should turn brown. They are sown from the end of February to the beginning of March.

For sowing, prepare containers filled with a mixture of peat and sand and the addition of crushed pine needles. The soil is not compacted; rhododendron seeds are scattered on top of it. You need to leave 1-1.5 cm between the grains. They are not covered with soil on top, but simply watered and covered with film. The pots are kept in a bright and warm place at +25°C, periodically ventilating and moistening the crops.

As soon as the sprouts appear (this takes up to 3 weeks), the film is removed. It is important to move the containers to a cooler place (+12°C - +15°C). From the end of spring they begin to harden and take them out into the open air for an hour or two. With the onset of June, the pots are moved outside to a dark place.

Seedlings are not planted outdoors in the first year; the plants will have to overwinter indoors. They are planted in the garden only in the second year. The first buds must be plucked to stimulate the formation of roots.

How to propagate rhododendron by layering

This method is not complicated. New plants are grown outside from the very beginning and overwinter there. Laying is done in the spring.

Rules for the procedure:

1. The branches of the bush that are located closest to the ground are bent to the soil.
2. Small cuts are made along the wood, splitting the branches. You can put small spacers in them so that the cut does not close.
3. Dig small holes 10-15 cm deep, and lower the split shoots into them. To fix, press with wire and then sprinkle with soil.
4. A layer is poured on top of the ground. The top of the shoot should rise above the level of the bed. The cuttings are well watered all summer.
5. With the onset of autumn, they should form roots. But the plants are not transplanted; they are left to overwinter in this form. For better wintering, the cuttings are covered with spruce branches and leaves.
6. When spring comes, the spruce branches are removed. The cuttings are separated from the mother plant and transplanted to their permanent place.

You can get several cuttings from one plant, but no more than 4-5 pieces.

Rhododendron can be propagated by various methods, their choice depends on the experience of the gardener. The cutting method is suitable for beginning gardeners, since seedlings from seeds are quite capricious and do not tolerate temperature fluctuations well.

Growing rhododendron from seeds in the garden - video