Amaryllis is an old and long-established name for the bulbous houseplant hippeastrum. Often, even now, you can find hippeastrum bulbs on sale under the usual name amaryllis.

Usually, soon after planting, such a bulb produces a peduncle, then for several weeks it pleases with a whole cap of large, very beautiful bell-shaped flowers. After this, the plant produces several long, belt-like leaves and lives on the windowsill in this unsightly form for years. Sometimes in the spring it still produces a peduncle to please with flowers. But this doesn't happen every year.

The surprising thing is that the more the hippeastrum is watered, fertilized, loosened and replanted, the less likely it is that it will bloom.

Why is that? This is because hippeastrums, like many other plants of the amaryllis family, live in the wild in arid areas where it rains only during certain periods of the year. When there is drought, the leaves of the hippeastrum die off, the plant falls asleep, and with the arrival of rains, it quickly releases a peduncle in order to have time to reproduce before the drought.

In order for your amaryllis to bloom every spring, or even twice a year, you need to provide it with a period of rest. In spring and summer it is necessary to water and fertilize (at this time the bulb grows), with the arrival of autumn, watering is reduced or stopped altogether. In winter, the bulb sleeps in a pot or in a box with sawdust.

From the end of January, they begin to gradually increase watering, preferably with lukewarm water, to wake up the plant. And they are waiting for flowers!

Hybrid amaryllis and hippeastrum are more common in culture. Amaryllis are among the best forcing plants, as they are easily forced at home even by the most unprepared amateurs.

At home, depending on the size of the bulb, amaryllis is planted in a fairly heavy pot measuring 15 - 20 cm. In a light pot, amaryllis can tip over during flowering.

The blunt end (usually with the remains of the roots) is used to bury the bulbs in well-drained, humus-rich soil. Firmly tamp the soil mixture around the bulbs so that approximately half or at least a third of the bulb remains above the surface of the soil.

Before planting, it is very advisable to first remove all dried outer scales of the bulbs that are black or dark brown in color.

Very small, slightly sprouted children of amaryllis bulbs can be left if you need to quickly propagate this variety or removed if abundant and long-lasting flowering is more important to you.

Proper planting of amaryllis.

The intensive formation of children is facilitated by the very spacious container in which they grow. Therefore, pots for planting amaryllis are taken mainly of small diameter, the distance between the wall and the bulb should be only 1.5 - 2 cm. Good drainage is also extremely necessary, since the bulk of the roots are located in this part of the pot. Expanded clay or fine gravel can be used as drainage.

Caring for amaryllis at home requires careful attention to the flower not only before and during flowering, but also after flowering. In order for indoor amaryllis to bloom next year after flowering has ended, the flower stalks should be removed immediately, cutting them off at a height of approximately 3-4 cm from its base.

Continue to water and feed the plant periodically. The leaves that grow during spring and summer will help the amaryllis stock up on the necessary energy for the next flowering.

Every month, amaryllis produces one leaf (although during the dormant period of amaryllis, these leaves may not appear outward). Every four leaves an inflorescence is formed in the bulb.

Amaryllis bulbs less than 7 cm in diameter practically do not bloom, although inflorescences form regularly in them. Therefore, the main task is to provide the plant with nutrients and prevent the bulb from decreasing in size. Bulbs become smaller in poor lighting, when there are too many babies or when there is too much flowering. They compensate for the loss of bulb mass during flowering with regular mineral fertilizing.

From distant countries, Italian, Spanish and Portuguese sailors brought strange plants, jewelry and spices. So, in 1714, amaryllis bulbs first came to Europe. First, tall flower stalks appeared above the planted plants, then pink tubular amaryllis flowers opened on their tops, and the entire surrounding space was enveloped in a floral fragrance.

The exotic flower crop quickly became popular, and bulbs from South Africa were sent around the world. The ease of cultivation and unpretentiousness have attracted flower growers from many countries. But plants did not always delight their owners with regular flowering. Enthusiasts who cared for and nurtured bulbs in greenhouses, and gardeners who tried to achieve flowers in the open ground, often complained that amaryllis did not bloom, but only produced dense green leaves.

Many years have passed since then, the plant has revealed all its secrets, but even now, for some lovers of indoor crops, homemade amaryllis seems capricious and stubborn.

Actually this is not true. If you know some of the characteristics of the plant and take into account its origin, amaryllis flowers will delight you with enviable consistency both in their appearance and in their amazing aroma.

Homemade amaryllis is native to South Africa.

Question: “How to make amaryllis bloom?” worried many minds. The whole secret is that the plant needs to imitate conditions close to its natural ones.

Wild amaryllis are plants with a distinct growing season and an obligatory dormant period. The first signs of bulb activity, dormant during part of the spring and all summer, appear in March, the first autumn month in the southern hemisphere. It is at this time that the rains begin, the temperature reaches a comfortable 20–25 °C, and the rocky slopes are covered with lush inflorescences consisting of 6–12 large pink flowers.

Amaryllis blooms for up to six weeks, then the inflorescences fade and are replaced by leathery, elongated leaves that grow throughout the winter and spring. The dying off of the foliage indicates the amaryllis is preparing for a dormant period.

To ensure good health, home amaryllis is provided with conditions similar to those the plant had in nature:

1. From the moment the peduncle forms until the last flower sets, the crop is watered as soon as the surface layer of soil dries, and fed with a complex product twice a month.
2. The interval between flowering and the formation of leaves is used to transplant the bulb and separate the children from it.
3. Watering is reduced when the foliage begins to grow and stops when it dies.
4. Amaryllis spends its dormant period at a temperature of +9 °C. The temperature is not increased until the plant shows signs of growth again.

If amaryllis does not bloom, you need to understand the possible reasons for this and try to correct the situation. The rudiments of inflorescences deep in the bulb are laid at least a season before the upcoming flowering.

In nature, the culture prefers illuminated, ventilated places with drained soil. At home, a soil mixture consisting of 2 parts peat, the same amount of loam, and one part perlite or sand will suit her. Add a glass of bone meal to 6 liters of such substrate and plant the onion so that most of it remains above the ground. At the same time, homemade amaryllis does not tolerate waterlogging, but easily tolerates drought.

Reasons for the lack of flowers in amaryllis

Amaryllis can refuse to form buds if you violate the order established by nature, for example:

• place the plant in unsuitable humidity or temperature conditions;
• bury the bulb when planting;
• plant in a dense substrate that prevents the growth of the root system.

Home amaryllis in the shade can also cause its owner to worry due to the deteriorating quality of flowering. As a result of a long-term lack of light, the number of buds is reduced, and amaryllis flowers become visibly smaller.

Moving the plant from shade to sun will help you enjoy fuller blooms next year.

A gardener can observe a situation where there are significantly fewer flowers on amaryllis than a year ago, or the peduncle has not developed at all, if:

• the bulb was exposed to sub-zero temperatures;
• the plant is depleted due to a large number of developed but not separated children in time;
• the green pet did not have a full recovery.

When the inflorescences fade and the leaves appear, the bulbous plants actively replenish the spent forces. This occurs not only due to the receipt of nutrients from the soil, but also due to the photosynthetic processes provided by the leaves. Both this time and the subsequent dormant period are extremely important for amaryllis.

For best flowering, amaryllis plants must go through a full annual cycle, and experienced gardeners advise not to cut off slightly wilted foliage, but to wait until it dries out and dies naturally.

Sometimes the question is: “Why don’t homemade amaryllis bloom?” asked by flower growers, who last year were delighted with a particularly large number of pink buds. Typically, an adult bulb produces a single peduncle. When two powerful inflorescences sway above the ground, this can be a serious load for the plant. Obviously, the bulb, which “worked hard” last year, was unable to fully recover and took a kind of “vacation”. Amaryllis, which not only bloomed in the previous season, but also produced seeds or children, behave in a similar way.

It doesn’t matter if amaryllis whose bulbs have not reached the age of 3–6 years do not bloom. Such plants have not yet accumulated the necessary strength and have not formed the rudiments of buds. Very young specimens do not “hibernate” at home, so, unlike adult amaryllis, they are kept warm all year round, watered and fed, waiting for them to mature.

If the bulb subsequently receives proper care, watering and fertilizing, there is nothing to worry about. In the future, amaryllis will again delight you with an abundance of pink fragrant flowers.

Amaryllis is a beautiful South African flower that has taken its rightful place among indoor plants. It is also called belladonna lily. It is very similar to hippeastrum, but has some significant differences. Hippeastrum is larger in size and its flowers have a more diverse range of colors. Amaryllis, unlike hippeastrum, sheds its leaves during flowering, leaving only the arrow with the flower. You can also tell the difference between amaryllis and hippeastrum when purchasing bulbs. Hippeastrum's bulbs are round and flattened, while amaryllis's are larger and pear-shaped.

External signs of amaryllis

• - pear-shaped bulb, diameter 4-5 cm;
• - the leaves are narrow, dark green, up to 50 cm long;
• -amaryllis at the moment of flowering produces a dense arrow up to 60 cm long,
• beautiful, large flowers 10-12 cm in diameter, having a pleasant aroma and funnel-shaped appearance.

The flowers are collected in a kind of umbrella, mostly 10-12 flowers. The color scheme has all shades of pink, and white is also possible;

Flowering period April-May, within a week.

Plant care

Productive care for a plant consists of choosing the location of the flower, watering, replanting and propagation, at different periods of its condition. And only by following all these rules can you count on the amaryllis to bloom.

During the growing season, the plant is planted in a special nutrient mixture consisting of humus, turf, sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 2, and drainage must also be provided. The pot is wide enough, but low. Small bulbs can be planted in one pot. But it is better to plant one bulb in one pot no more than 15 cm high, in the ground to a depth of 2/3 of the height of the bulb. The distance from the circumference of the pot to the bulb should be a maximum of 2-3 cm. Bulbs should be planted in the fall.

The flower's awakening period begins in September; the flower should be placed closer to the heat, having previously covered it. After the leaves appear, moderate warm watering should be provided. As the peduncle grows, you need to water more abundantly, but not overdo it. Since the peduncle has not yet grown by 10 cm, there is a risk that all the nutrients will go into leaf growth and you may not see flowering. Do not forget to fertilize the flower well at this time. The best fertilizer for amaryllis is mullein (dissolved in water in a ratio of 1:10). The frequency of feeding is once every 10 days. Also during this period you should add bright lighting. Place the pot with the plant on the sunny side of the apartment as soon as the arrow appears.

Immediately after flowering in early summer, amaryllis begins a dormant period. The peduncle with flowers falls off and the leaves begin to dry out. But the leaves should not be trimmed, because all the nutrients from them go into the bulb. In the summer, amaryllis “falls asleep”; during this period, future flower buds are formed. After the leaves have dried, the bulbs should be dug up and placed in a cool, dark, and most importantly dry place. You can leave the bulb in the pot and place the plant in a cool, dry cellar from June to September.

The flower reproduces by seeds and baby bulbs. It is more convenient, of course, to use daughter bulbs. With proper care, amaryllis will delight you with flowering when propagated by children in two years to the third, and when using seeds only in the seventh or eighth year.

Video: Growing amaryllis

Amaryllis was brought to Europe from South Africa. It belongs to the amaryllis family and is represented by only two species. Hybrid forms and varieties of Amaryllis belladonna or beautiful amaryllis are grown in indoor culture.

The flower bulb can reach a diameter of 12 cm. Above the sword-shaped or linear pointed leaves rises a bare peduncle, crowned with funnel-shaped flowers, most often from 4 to 8.

In nature, lanceolate petals are white or pink. Cultivated varieties have a fairly rich color palette - from classic bright red to white, greenish, golden and purple.

How often does it bloom?

The plant has a pronounced period of complete dormancy, after which flowering is observed.

If we remember its origin, it becomes clear why it is observed in March - April.

At this time, the flower is in its homeland - late summer, autumn. When the end of spring comes and amaryllis rests for summer, winter has come for it.

Flowering time depends on the varietal of the flower and may occur at the end of winter or early spring. Some varieties bloom in summer or autumn.

If you organize forcing correctly, you can make amaryllis bloom at almost any desired time. But still, natural timing is preferable for this - the bulbs will be stronger, the plant itself will be healthier, and flowering will be annual and abundant. With proper care, re-blooming is possible in the same year.

Amaryllis flowering conditions

Sometimes, despite all efforts, amaryllis never blooms. To understand the reason for the failure, let’s consider all the necessary conditions for flowering. Experienced gardeners have long known that for a plant to successfully grow, conditions are necessary that are close to those found in its natural habitat.

Temperature

In the Cape Province, where amaryllis comes from, summers are hot and winters are quite cool. During the active growing season the flower needs temperatures from 18 to 25 degrees. The difference between day and night temperatures should be minimal. When he is at rest, the temperature needs to be lowered.

Important! The minimum temperature for amaryllis at rest is +10 degrees.

Air humidity

When it is above 80%, the spread of the fungal disease stagonosporosis is possible. Therefore, the flower does not need additional air humidification. Only in extreme heat may it require spraying, but only in the morning or evening hours.

Lighting

Daylight hours during active growth are 16 hours. If necessary, use additional lighting. For a flower, bright but diffused light is preferable. It can be exposed to direct sunlight only in the morning - until 11 o'clock and in the afternoon - from 15 o'clock. At rest, amaryllis does not require light.

Location

It is chosen taking into account lighting needs. It is best if it is a window oriented to the southwest or southeast. On a south window, the flower will have to be shaded during the midday hours.

Important! To prevent the peduncle from bending, turn the pot three times a week.

Why doesn't amaryllis bloom?

There are usually two reasons for this:

• ignorance of the physiology of plant development;
• errors in care.

Let's look into this in more detail and work on the mistakes.

Not observing the rest period

Amaryllis differs from many room inhabitants in its period of complete rest.

All metabolic processes in the bulb slow down.

In preparation for rest, nutrients are transferred from dying leaves into it.

The flower needs to be prepared for this state:

1. Reduce daylight hours, and then place the flower in a dark room.
2. Gradually reduce the temperature.
3. Reduce the number of waterings.
4. Eliminate fertilizing.

After a full rest from autumn to spring, flowering will be abundant and long-lasting. Without it, the bulb quickly depletes and forms only leaves.

Wrong potty

Beginning flower growers may not realize that the wrong pot is an obstacle to flowering.

It would seem, what is the connection between the diameter of the pot and flowering? But it exists, and it is the most direct one. In a spacious pot, the plant readily produces children. We keep amaryllis in the house for spectacular flowering. And the plant blooms to produce seeds. A spacious pot stimulates vegetative propagation rather than flowering.

For this flower there is a rule: the diameter of the pot is 4 cm greater than the diameter of the bulb. Less is possible, more is not possible.

Advice! When choosing a container for amaryllis, purchase a stable pot, otherwise it may tip over under the weight of the peduncle.

Incorrect watering frequency

This is one of the common reasons for lack of flowering. At rest, the flower does not need full watering; it only needs a little moistening with a spray bottle. When moving to the windowsill it is continued.

The flower shoot has reached 10 cm - watering becomes regular. Moisten the soil after the top layer has dried slightly. The flower shoot has been cut off, but watering has not stopped.

The flower should grow leaves - they will nourish the bulb. When they begin to dry out, reduce watering. You need to water the flower along the walls of the pot; water should not get on the bulb.

Poorly selected soil

Lack of nutrients, too dense soil that does not allow moisture and air to pass through, will certainly affect flowering. The substrate for planting should include humus - 1 part, leaf soil - 3 parts.

For looseness, add perlite - 2 parts (can be replaced with coarse sand). Acidity is strictly monitored; its values ​​should be within 6.0-6.5. If you do not have the skills to prepare nutrient mixtures, it is better to buy ready-made soil intended for amaryllis.

Important! The prepared soil needs to be sterilized.

Poorly chosen place for a flower

If there is not enough light, the plant may postpone flowering until better times. Direct sunlight is stressful for amaryllis. He will be uncomfortable in a draft and with frequent temperature fluctuations. All this must be taken into account when choosing a place for a flower.

Problems with the bulb

It must be remembered that even healthy planting material will produce flowers only in the third year. When the bulb is affected by disease, the plant will no longer be able to develop normally. Lack of flowering is observed if:

• there are too many children - we separate them from the mother’s bulb;
• improper care has led to a decrease in the size of the bulb - we ensure a full period of rest;
• it froze due to non-compliance with the temperature regime;
• improper storage during the dormant period;
• planting too deep.

When purchasing, you need to carefully check the planting material. For prevention, purchased bulbs are treated with a fungicide solution for half an hour.

Problems with fertilizer

Without proper nutrition there will be no flowers. The plant needs to regain its strength. To do this, it is fed every ten days while it is actively growing. Fertilizers for bulbs are suitable; dilute them in water according to the instructions.

What to do to make amaryllis bloom?

Carefully analyze the care system, find errors and eliminate them. It may be necessary to audit the root system and the bulb itself. Check the plant for diseases or pests; if found, destroy it.

Care during flowering

Amaryllis flowering lasts up to 20 days. All this time, regular watering is carried out, not forgetting to pour out excess water from the pan. Spraying is not carried out at this time - spots may appear on the petals. Experienced flower growers advise cutting off the first arrow after one flower blooms. It will stand in the water for a long time, but a second one will appear to replace it.

Advice! Usually there are up to 3 flower arrows on amaryllis, but it is better to break off the third one immediately so as not to weaken the plant.

The pot is turned several times a week - then the peduncle will not bend.

Care after flowering

After flowering, the arrow is cut off, leaving a small stump. During the period of leaf growth, light watering and fertilizing continue until it is time to prepare for winter.

Some gardeners plant plants in open ground and dig them up in the fall. But this is done if the flowering was in the spring. It has been noticed that outdoors the bulb is larger. The period a month after flowering is best suited for a planned plant replantation.

How to care at different times for flowering?

This plant can be forced to bloom at any time by creating an artificial dormant period. If it falls in November-December, the monthly care for the plant will be as follows.

January

If the plant is dormant, no care is required. Only every week you need to spray the soil with a spray bottle. At the end of January it’s time to put pots of bulbs on the windowsill. If they have been stored in the refrigerator, it's time to plant them in pots.

February

The sun woke up the bulbs. They are slowly waking up, a flower arrow has appeared. At this time, it is enough to occasionally spray the soil in the pot. If the length of the arrow goes beyond 10 cm, water and feed according to the usual scheme.

March

The most important period in care is the time of flowering. Watering and fertilizing should be regular.

April

Flowering ends. It's time to trim the flower shoot. It is good to feed the plant to restore strength.

May

If necessary, you can replant the flower or plant it in the ground when the threat of frost has passed and the temperature is not lower than 18 degrees. Water and feed.

June

Continue watering and fertilizing.

July

The care is the same. Do not forget to protect plants from the scorching heat.

August

Continue to water and feed. At the end of the month, it’s time to move the flower into the apartment, if it grew on the street - cold weather may come suddenly.

September

It's time to prepare for winter rest. Gradually reduce watering and remove fertilizing.

October

By the end of the month they stop watering. Remove completely dried leaves.

November

At the beginning of the month, the flower is transferred to a cool and dark room. Spray the soil in the pot weekly.

December

A state of deep peace. No maintenance required other than spraying

Typically, such care is needed for a flower if a dormant period is created artificially. In nature, it falls in July and August, and the care schedule shifts accordingly.

Fertilizers to stimulate flowering

During the flowering period, the plant requires complete mineral fertilizers with microelements. They are diluted in water according to the instructions. You can also feed it with organic matter by diluting the mullein with water 1:10. Such feedings need to be alternated.

Answers on questions

Many gardeners often have questions about flower care. Let's try to answer the most frequently asked questions.

Why doesn't it bloom, but only produces leaves?

There may be several reasons:

• a baby was planted that blooms only after 3 years;
• too spacious pot or deep planting;
• the rest period is not observed;
• watering the flower before the arrow has grown to 10 cm;
• improper watering, light or temperature conditions;
• lack of nutrition.

What to do with the bulb after flowering?

If there is a need, it can be transplanted. Continue care until the leaves wither.

What to do with the arrow after flowering?

When it begins to wither, it is cut off.

Is it possible to replant a flowering one after purchase?

It is better to wait until flowering ends. The soil of the purchased flower does not absorb moisture well, so you need to pay special attention to watering.

Common mistakes

The most common mistake is not observing the rest period or switching to it too abruptly. The plant must be prepared gradually. Sometimes the wrong place is chosen for a plant, the temperature regime is not observed, and it is planted in the wrong soil.

If you water too much, the roots may rot. Lack of moisture will not allow amaryllis to bloom and develop well. Some gardeners start watering when the arrow just hatches, and as a result they do not get flowering, the plant grows leaves.

Useful video

Find out more in the video below:

Conclusion

In order for amaryllis to regularly delight you with flowering, you need to provide it with proper care, not forgetting about its physiological characteristics.

Do you have amaryllis? If you raised this beauty or know any care secrets, write to us and don’t forget about a photo of your pet.

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South African amaryllis is a beautiful, showy flower, the name of which has become common to the entire Amaryllis family. This beautifully flowering perennial conquers gardeners once and for all. True, in Russia amaryllis is not as popular as hippeastrums, clivias, daffodils and galanthus - its close relatives. The reason is that the heat-loving amaryllis cannot boast of high frost resistance, so its cultivation in open ground in the harsh Russian climate is not practiced. But the plant has established itself as a wonderful indoor flower, a real home decoration! Read the article on how to care for amaryllis at home.

The climatic conditions of South Africa, Australia and the southern countries of the USA are ideal for amaryllis. In these latitudes, amaryllis are as widespread as dandelions in our country. A temperature of -9 °C is unsafe for the life of the South African plant. The airy petals of the buds and the tender leaves of the amaryllis can be damaged even with less frost. That is why our gardeners consider exotic culture exclusively as an indoor plant with pronounced periods of growth and dormancy. Amaryllis belongs to the bulbous plant culture. It is distinguished by elongated (up to 70 cm in length), straight and not wide (up to 2 - 3 cm) leaves, which grow in two rows. The bulbs, reaching 12 cm in diameter, resemble a medium-sized pear in shape. During the flowering period, amaryllis acquires one, rarely two, long and smooth peduncles crowned with a large inflorescence. The inflorescence consists of bell flowers with a pleasant weak aroma up to 5 - 8 cm in diameter. Their colors range from white to all sorts of shades of red, pink and purple. The spindle-shaped amaryllis buds open into 6 petals with sharp tips. Today, amaryllis is unanimously recognized as one of the most spectacular plants for growing at home. Amaryllis: specifics of the life cycle in natural and home conditions The flowering period of “immigrants” from South Africa coincides with autumn, which in hot countries begins in March and lasts until May. It is no coincidence that local residents nicknamed amaryllis the Easter lily. Having rested and gained strength in the summer, the plant’s bulbs produce flower stalks with large buds. Up to 12 flowers can “sit” on one inflorescence at the same time, and in some hybrids – up to 20! At home, amaryllis boasts gorgeous flowers for up to 6 weeks, and only after flowering is complete do its leathery leaves appear through the ground. They will remain green and springy throughout the winter. Faded and limp leaves indicate the beginning of another dormant period. During this time, the bulbs should be stored in a dry place at a temperature of +10°C. Amaryllis: care at different periods of the cycle Growing and caring for amaryllis at home is a rather painstaking task: in order to achieve lush and beautiful flowering, the plant needs to be given a lot of attention. But if you show enough patience and follow all the recommendations for forcing, watering and lighting an exotic flower, you can make it bloom 2 - 3 times a year. Requirements for lighting and air humidity Amaryllis cannot live without bright, diffused light. The plant will do best on windows facing southeast or southwest. If you place amaryllis on a south-facing window, shading will be required on sunny days. To ensure that the slender flower stalks are even, the pot is turned from time to time to the light with the opposite side. Amaryllis does not react as sensitively to indoor air humidity as it does to lighting, but it is still worth occasionally wiping its leaves with a damp washcloth or rinsing them in the shower. Please note that such water activities are contraindicated for flowering amaryllis. If the air in the room is very dry, you can slightly moisten the buds with a spray bottle, but under no circumstances should you spray open flowers or “dormant” bulbs. Period of active growth of amaryllis With the arrival of spring, amaryllis's need for an abundance of light and heat increases sharply, and the temperature should be kept between 18 - 25°C. The plant can be watered if its peduncle has reached a height of 10 cm. If you rush with watering, the amaryllis will waste all its energy to let its leaves grow, and then the flowering time will shift indefinitely. Healthy and strong bulbs produce a pair of arrows at once and bloom twice a year, if conditions permit. When 3 or more flower stalks appear, you need to leave only 2 of the strongest ones, removing the rest, otherwise the next time the amaryllis will simply refuse to bloom. December - April is considered the natural forcing period for this bulbous crop. At this time, the amaryllis is full of energy, and during the summer months it rests and recovers. Amaryllis flowering period Blooming amaryllis needs bright light and regular watering more than ever. Directing a stream of water at the bulb is strictly prohibited. If we talk about the frequency and amount of watering, let’s remember from which hot countries the exotic plant came to our windowsills, and we will conclude: it is better to underwater than to overwater. Amaryllis can easily tolerate short-term drought, but excessive moisture cannot. In order to admire the gorgeous flowers of the plant for as long as possible, the pot should be placed in a secluded, cool place where direct sunlight cannot penetrate. As soon as the first bud blooms, it is recommended to cut off the peduncle and place it in a vase. The flower in the vase will bloom for about the same amount of time as on the bulb, but cutting off the first inflorescence will encourage the amaryllis to send out a new arrow. After flowering, amaryllis needs to gradually limit watering, which eventually needs to be stopped completely. With the onset of the dormant period, you cannot cut off the leaves of the plant - the bulb will draw all the nutrients from them. “Sleeping” amaryllis in a pot is placed in a well-shaded, cool place with a temperature of about 10°C. For proper rest, the plant requires at least 3 months. Amaryllis: planting rules A plant with South African roots should be replanted not before the beginning of the growing season, but immediately after flowering, when the leaves begin to grow. This will allow the amaryllis bulbs to quickly recover and rest well. In order not to injure the plant when removing it from the old pot, the soil is pre-watered. Then the amaryllis is carefully removed so as to protect the roots and keep the soil on them. A new pot, larger in size than the previous container, is filled with a layer of drainage and a wet nutrient mixture. The bulb is immersed there along with the soil on the roots, and the free spaces around the edges are filled with new soil, after which it is compacted and slightly moistened. If at the time of transplantation the amaryllis has managed to acquire “babies” with the beginnings of their own roots, they are taken away from the mother plant and planted in separate small pots. Note! After “moving” to a new pot, the plant bulb should rise 1/3 - 2/3 above the soil level, and the distance from it to the edge of the planting container should be no more than 3 cm. Before planting amaryllis, you can purchase special soil for ornamental bulbous crops. This mixture has all the necessary qualities for the successful growth of amaryllis - it is loose, light, with an acidity level in the range of 6.0 - 6.5. You can mix the substrate for indoor amaryllis yourself. You will need the following components: equal parts of turf and leaf soil; half the volume of humus and peat; a little perlite. You can also use coarse sand or vermiculite instead. Before planting amaryllis bulbs, the finished mixture must be steamed and thus made sterile. This precaution will protect the root system and scales of the plant from insects, among which the most dangerous are onion flies and nematodes. Note! You should refrain from replanting amaryllis resting in the summer - unceremonious interference with the natural course of the plant’s annual life cycle can deprive it of the ability to produce flower stalks for 1 - 2 years. Amaryllis: common growing problems The owner of an exotic plant may encounter some difficulties in the process of growing home amaryllis: the bottom of the bulb and the roots of the flower have rotted - a consequence of frequent or abundant watering; lack of flowering - amaryllis did not receive suitable conditions for “hibernation”; reluctance to bloom can also be caused by a sharp change in temperature (for example, a pot of amaryllis was moved to the balcony or garden); drooping and faded leaves of the plant may indicate oxygen starvation of the amaryllis root system, enclosed in too dense a substrate. As you can see, at home, an exotic bulbous plant is quite demanding to care for. Therefore, before you buy amaryllis, you need to weigh the pros and cons. Beginning gardeners can be recommended to first familiarize themselves with the agricultural technology of the less fastidious close relative of amaryllis - hippeastrum. Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum These two plants look very similar to each other, so many people confuse them. Meanwhile, the only thing the two cultures have in common is their belonging to the Amaryllis family. The cradle of the beautiful Amaryllis, which is the only one of its kind, is considered to be South Africa, while the natural habitat of hippeastrum is South America. In addition, this culture unites about 100 plant species. Amaryllis Hippeastrum The most important and obvious distinguishing feature of the two plants lies in the structural features of the stem. In amaryllis, the stem of the peduncle seems dense and uniform to the touch. That is why it is stable enough to hold several large fragrant flowers (from 6 to 12). The arrow of the hippeastrum, on the contrary, is hollow. A maximum of 6 buds appear on it, and the flowers are also odorless. Amaryllis Hippeastrum We list other differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum: The amaryllis flower is smaller than the hippeastrum flower. Its diameter is approximately 8 cm, and hippeastrum flowers reach 12–15 cm. Flowering amaryllis has no leaves, while hippeastrum produces a strap-shaped leaf during flowering. Hippeastrum can only exist at home. Amaryllis will be able to take root in the southern part of the garden. Amaryllis bulb Hippeastrum bulb Amaryllis: features of propagation at home Like other representatives of bulbous plants, amaryllis propagate at home in several ways: with the help of “babies” that appear on an adult plant; various methods of dividing the bulb; seeds. Obtaining offspring from amaryllis by vegetative means is not notable for any specific aspects, but propagation of this exotic crop by seeds is worth studying in more detail. Amaryllis seeds are completely different from those formed during pollination of related species. In hippeastrum, for example, the seeds are represented by dry black scales. If you do not break off wilted amaryllis flowers and do not cut off the arrow, then the nutrients that the plant receives during watering will be used to form a seed pod. Amaryllis seeds are small succulent nodules that, even while inside the fruit, can sprout miniature roots and tiny sprouts. This feature can be considered as an advantage and a disadvantage at the same time: it is quite easy to grow a new plant from such seeds, but it is almost impossible to stop their rapid germination. A few weeks after pollination of indoor amaryllis, the tubers are ready to germinate, and to get young plants, you need to hurry. To do this, you need to sow the seeds: carefully deepen them with the bottom into a slightly moistened sand and peat substrate, and then place them in a place with good lighting. The seeds will take root and send out their first shoots in 3 to 6 weeks. Amaryllis obtained as a result of propagation by seeds begin to bloom after 4–5 years. Note! The large size and good development of the bulbs can cause them to not rest in the first year of life. Until the next dormant period, they will continue to grow and add foliage. At this time, it is necessary to provide young amaryllis with additional artificial lighting. If the seeds of the bulbous plant are not planted immediately, they are stored in a home refrigerator, pre-packed in tightly closed bags. It is very important that moisture does not penetrate there. You also need to protect the tubers from the effects of sub-zero temperatures. From time to time, planting material should be inspected in order to promptly detect mold or signs of drying out if they appear. Why doesn't amaryllis bloom? Bulbous plants are loved and respected for their gorgeous flowering. But in the absence of the necessary care, amaryllis will undoubtedly refuse to please the owner with long-awaited flowers. There are many reasons for the “strike”: the bulb was not at rest and did not gain strength for flowering; the plant did not have enough sunlight or natural light; the flower “froze” in a cold room; the soil in the pot is not fertile; the bulb was “eaten” by insect pests. Each of these factors undermines the strength of the amaryllis and the plant does not have enough energy to throw an arrow. In order to be sure to admire the beautiful flowering, they try to eliminate all negative conditions. Amaryllis: diseases and pests All plants are susceptible to various pests and diseases to one degree or another. Amaryllis is no exception: insects pose a danger not only to its flower stalks and leaves, but also to the underground part. Most often, amaryllis owners encounter the following pests: The amaryllis mealybug is a white pest that usually hides under the scales of the bulb. Insect waste provides breeding ground for the growth of sooty fungus, which seriously damages the bulb. Amaryllis show that they are not feeling well by slowing down their growth and dropping their leaves. To remove the scale insect, the indoor plant is treated with special insecticidal agents; onion mite - the insect can get to amaryllis along with soil that has not been disinfected. The pest eats the tissue of the bulb, thus destroying it. In addition, the onion mite provokes the development of fusarium. The plant withers before our eyes: the green leaves fade and begin to turn yellow, the inflorescences become smaller. The most favorable conditions for the appearance of onion mites are stuffiness and high humidity in the room; Mealybug - white fluffy spots, and this is what the pest looks like, concentrated on the leaves and stem of the plant. You can get rid of it by regularly wiping the amaryllis with a damp sponge; false scale insect - brown spots affect the leaves and flowers of amaryllis. Get rid of the pest using a soap solution or a special insecticide. The presence of insects on indoor amaryllis is further complicated by the fact that pests provoke the development of diseases dangerous to the plant, among which the most common are: Fusarium is an infectious rot that affects the tissues and blood vessels of the plant’s root system; anthractosis - disfigures amaryllis leaves with dark spots and brown streaks; Stagonosporosis is a disease that causes redness of plant bulbs. The photo shows an amaryllis with a red burn on the bulb: The diseased flower is isolated from other indoor plants, after which the affected leaves are cut off, the damaged bulb is treated with a fungicidal agent (for example, Bordeaux mixture), and the planting material is also renewed. Feeding once every 10 days will help increase the immunity of flowering amaryllis. Special solutions for flowering plants (for example, Emerald) are used as fertilizer. After flowering is completed, the plant is not fertilized. Feeding is resumed only after the leaves have been forced out and the flower stalk appears. Despite the incredible beauty of the flowers, amaryllis is poisonous. This means that the plant poses a potential danger to curious young children and ubiquitous pets - parrots, cats and decorative rabbits. The tissues of the bulb are saturated with the alkaloid lycorine, which, when it gets on the mucous membrane, causes swelling and severe irritation. A large dose of lycorin causes serious poisoning.