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Stoves have long been used by residents of rural regions for heating and cooking. Then the tradition of building in a house migrated to the city. Nowadays, such designs are mainly used in dachas or private homes. The classic Russian stove is being replaced by another stove - a Swedish stove, which is superior to Russian and Dutch stoves in numerous respects. For example, a stove that came from Sweden is distinguished by its compact dimensions, economical use of fuel, greater heat output, etc.

The Swedish stove is used not only for heating the room, but can also act as a mini-kitchen. To do this, you need to install a hob on a folded platform or equip an oven. This multifunctional design allows you to both cook and heat the entire house.

The designers of the Swedish brick kiln took into account the peculiarities of the Scandinavian climate, which is characterized by dampness. In fairly cold conditions, it was necessary to quickly warm the house, dry clothes, and prepare food. Therefore, the design has a special partition that allows the stove to be used in two rooms at once. This is the main difference between a Swedish oven and a Dutch oven.

In addition to the above-mentioned advantages, the design has a number of positive qualities, among which it is worth noting such as:

• The firebox, made in the form of a bell, ensures proper combustion of fuel, long-term maintenance of heat and smoldering of firewood.
• You can install an additional hob on a Swedish stove with a stove.
• The stove is installed between the kitchen and living room, which allows you to warm the room while cooking.
• You can install a water circuit on the stove, which will allow you to use it for heating a house or bathhouse.
• High efficiency of fuel combustion. It is allowed to use firewood, reeds, and small wood. These types of fuel have increased heat transfer, so your home will always be warm and dry.
• The Swede warms up within 10-15 minutes after the fuel is ignited. In order to retain heat for as long as possible, it is necessary to close the valve tightly.

A Swedish stove for a country house is the most suitable option for heating and cooking food and heating water. While there are a large number of advantages, it is necessary to note the presence of certain disadvantages:

• First, you need to carefully select the material. It must be of high quality. Fireclay brick is not suitable, which affects the duration of heat retention.
• Secondly, construction must be approached carefully, involving specialists who will be able to correct mistakes at the bricklaying stage.
• Thirdly, you should not skimp on specialists who will help you start the heating system. Otherwise, the oven will not function as it should.
• Fourthly, it gets damp quickly, so the stove must be constantly in use. If this does not happen, then the structure must be thoroughly dried before heating.

Characteristics

Unlike the Dutch, the Swede has compact dimensions:

• Height varies from 2030 to 2170 mm.
• The width can be between 880-885 mm.
• Height - from 1010 to 1020 mm.

This small Swedish stove is very easy to assemble with your own hands and is capable of heating a room of up to 30-35 m2.

There are several types of Swedish stoves, which differ in the nature of their assembly and functional purpose. Furnaces are divided into the following groups:

• A Swedish fireplace with a hob that faces the street. Inside the room there is a firebox and a fireplace portal. This type is usually installed in the living room.
• Swedish stoves with deck chairs. Suitable for cold regions and small rooms where there is not enough space. The lounger can act as a bed.
• Stoves with hob and oven. Such structures are installed between the kitchen and the room.

Before you build a brick stove with your own hands, you need to find out the dimensions of the house and draw up a drawing indicating the location of the stove on it. This will save time on redesigning the design.

For country houses, it is best to choose a Swede that will not be equipped with a heating system.

In winter, people rarely come to their dacha, so there is no need to install an expensive structure. But for a country house, it is better to install a stove model that will allow you to both cook and heat the entire house.

Design and operating principle

The Swedish heating and cooking stove was made on the basis of the Dutch one, which did not have an oven, hob, place for drying clothes and heating water.

The principle of operation of the Swede, without reference to models, is one - channel. The firebox oven is located on the side, allowing heat to be transferred directly into the room. When the wood begins to give off heat, then it gradually begins to heat the oven and the side, and only then goes down.

The upper part of the Swedish stove heats up very quickly, due to the fact that the heat transfer channels are located at the back of the panel.

The efficiency of the Swedish model significantly exceeds the productivity of the Dutch one. For example, if a Dutch woman gives off about 2.5 thousand kilocalories of heat per hour, then a Swede gives off 3.5 thousand kcal. To do this, it is enough to put several portions of firewood into the firebox during the day, and the heat in the house will remain for 24 hours.

High-level economics and efficiency in a Swedish-assembled stove are ensured thanks to a rather complex smoke exhaust system. As a result, it is simply rational to use heat in winter and summer, setting a different type of construction for each season.

If the stove is provided with a deck, then the heat transfer channels must be installed in a horizontal position. A special valve is installed next to the channels, which helps regulate the heat supply in summer and winter. The valve can be rotated in a horizontal or vertical position, depending on the season. In horizontal mode, the heat will go directly to the sunbed, and in summer - into the chimney.

The design of the Swedish stoves may differ, depending on the model, but the following elements are required in the stove:

• An oven that is intended for heating. The oven is made in the form of a hood, thanks to which the flame from the fuel does not touch its walls, but is immediately transferred to the heating elements. The so-called flue gases go down, so the stove is heated from the floor.
• The upper niche, which is heated by the heat of the first or second level. This space is usually used to dry clothes.
• A niche above the stove, which is made above the hob. You can put cooked food here to keep it hot in the morning.
• Smoke circulation, made in the form of a special flow window. This should be done from the bottom of the oven.

Fuel types

The structure is built in a house for more than one year, so only high-quality bricks must be used for laying the stove, and heating must be carried out only with approved materials. The efficiency and amount of heat generated depends on this. Different types of fuel provide different amounts of heat, and this must be taken into account when choosing how to heat a room. The most common types of fuel for Swedes include:

• Wood of different species. It is worth considering that birch, oak, beech, and maple can provide much more heat than pine, aspen or alder. Firewood must be dried so that it produces a lot of ash and not smoke.
• Peat, which can be pressed, lump, carved, milled. It is best to use pressed peat, the briquettes of which are highly dense. As a result, a few pieces are enough to maintain heat for a long time. In terms of heat transfer, peat is close to wood. The amount of thermal mass released depends directly on how correctly the peat was dried and pressed.
• Coal, for which a special grate must be placed on the Swedish stove. Its elements must be heated by coal, which gradually burns.

Do-it-yourself Swedish oven

Before assembling the “Swede”, it is necessary to draw up an exact diagram of the order of the stove, indicate the places where the oven, hob, chimney, and air ducts will be located. The easiest way is to assemble a cooking-heating stove yourself, which will have all the necessary components. The hob and oven are made of glass, and the oven door is made of glass.

Materials

To assemble a Swede with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following materials:

• Fireclay brick, which is made from refractory clay. You cannot use ordinary brick; it is not able to withstand high temperatures.
• Clay used to hold bricks together during laying.
• Metal flaps, latches, doors that help in the full operation of the Swede.
• Finishing materials - plaster, lime, clay.

Tools

To lay the swede in order, you will also need special tools, which include a trowel, a bayonet shovel, a plumb line, a hammer, a level, and a container for preparing the solution.

Tools required for masonry

Foundation

How to fold the stove when all the preparations are done? First of all, you need to make markings for the foundation, on which the stove will then be placed. The marking should be 10-15 centimeters larger than the base of the stove. Then you need to dig a hole, at the bottom of which lay a mixture made from sand and water. The width of the layer should not be more than 20 centimeters. Crushed stone is poured on top of the sand, which must be compacted well, and formwork made of wooden boards must be placed.

They are covered with plastic film, on top of which a concrete solution must be poured. The thickness of this layer should not be less than 15 cm. Reinforcement must be placed in the cement that has not yet hardened, pressed into the mortar and filled with cement again.

The next step will be to install a mesh of reinforcement, but only when the first ball of mortar becomes solid. The second layer must be leveled and wait for it to harden. In total, these two phases will take three to four weeks. When they pass, the Swede's serial laying begins.

We put the stove, stove, oven

While the foundation is drying, you need to take care of the fuel part - stoves, fireboxes, ovens. The thickness of the slab should not be less than 710 by 410 mm. The dimensions of the firebox can be as follows:

• Height varies between 281 by 330 mm;
• The width is 305 by 356 mm;
• The depth is 406 by 506 mm.

The oven will have almost the same dimensions as the firebox. The oven depth will be 281 by 305 mm, width - 330 by 381 mm, depth - 456 by 506 mm, the thickness of each oven wall will be, on average, from 4 to 6 mm. The walls should not be thin so as not to burn quickly, but they should not be made thick either, otherwise the oven will take a long time to heat up.

For the firebox, you need to take a cast door that has a “whisker” and is embedded in the masonry. The “whiskers” are installed independently if you weld annealed steel wire at the corners of the door frame. You will need two pieces that will be parallel to each other. Then the “whiskers” must be spread apart, giving the wire a V shape. These elements must also be embedded in the wall, additionally secured with a steel corner.

Fire door with welded “whiskers”

Order

The new stage of construction of the Swedish stove will be quite long in order to correctly arrange the bricks.

The sequential installation of the stove looks like this:

• The base is laid out in the form of a square, each side of which is 1.1 m. The top should be exactly one brick below the floor level.
• Then the first continuous row of bricks is created.
• The second row will also be solid, but in place of the fireplace you need to install a grate.
• The third row is laid out with bricks, creating a vertical channel and a space allocated for the oven. After this, you need to mount the doors and build a firebox for the fireplace.
• The fourth row - bricks are simply laid out.
• Fifth row - at the same time as the laying, a grate must be installed.
• The sixth row is to create an overlap between the oven and the vertical channel.
• Seventh row - you need to install two strips of metal.
• The eighth and ninth rows are ordinary brickwork.
• Tenth row - you need to make a niche intended for cleaning the fireplace; a hob is installed.
• Eleventh row - a niche is made for the hob, the holes are blocked.
• Rows 13-15 - a mantelpiece is created, so the bricks need to be pushed forward a little. In 13-14 rows you need to lay bricks that will be cut obliquely. They should be positioned towards the front plane of the fireplace.
• Row 16 - completing a niche for the hob.
• Rows 17-18 - laid out with bricks without additional mounting elements.
• Rows 19-20 - a chimney is formed.
• Rows 21-23 - doors are created for cleaning channels.
• Row 24 - you need to install a damper for the fireplace.
• Row 25 - the valve for the furnace is mounted.
• Row 26 - the vertical channel must be connected to the chimney.
• Rows 27-28 - creating the longitudinal walls of the channel that will pass above the fireplace.
• Rows 29-30 - solid brickwork.
• Row 31 - a common valve is installed.
• Row 32 - formation of the Swedish oven pipe.

Furnace arrangement diagram

Important nuances

The foot of the oven - usually the first two rows - should be wide. This is achieved through seams with a width of 6 to 13 mm. This way you can get a pedestal that has the shape of a protrusion. You should not make the ledge wider so that the foot does not turn out awkward.

Before laying, each brick must be immersed in water and rinsed. This will ensure a strong masonry. The brick should be in the water for no more than 15 seconds so that the material does not take on water. If it penetrates into the masonry, then the structure will fall apart.

The master must pay special attention to the combustion chamber in order to burn fuel efficiently. It is made of fireclay bricks, which have a light yellow color. The mortar for masonry must be prepared using fireclay clay. It is not recommended to use fireclay and red bricks together, or stack them end to end. There should be a distance of 6 mm between different materials. For the combustion part, which starts from the third row, fireclay should be used. Considering the high cost of the material, you can line the inside of the firebox with such bricks.

Bricks with rounded corners are used in the chimney to reduce resistance to gas flow and turbulence. The chimney should be made with a fluff, raised 60 cm above the roof.

Swedish oven with stove and oven

In the absence of gas heating, a Swedish stove can serve as a worthy analogue. It allows you not only to heat your house or cottage, but also to use the stove for cooking. Unlike the Russian stove, this stove has lower efficiency, but it heats up faster due to its small size. Most often, such a stove is placed in the wall between the kitchen and the living room, or the living room and the kitchen. If desired, such a stove can have an additional bench. The classic version is made of ceramic bricks, and the firebox is made of fireclay. A large oven is located on the side of the firebox. The oven heats up in the first minutes of the fire and helps improve the heating of the room.

Photo

The Swedish stove "Shvedka" can be visible, rough and weighty. Usually equipped with a stove and oven. Small decorative options are placed in the corner. The modern analogue is made from ceramic bricks and can be lined with soapstone magnesite. They can be installed in any convenient place. This design has a special storage cap, which helps burn fuel and increase the heat transfer of the stove. This oven consists of a lower, upper niche and a niche above the stove.

Catalog of stoves "Shvedok"

	Has a high level of efficiency. High degree of heat transfer, functionally adapted to cook food in the oven or on burners, of which there may be one or two.. It heats up quite quickly. The combustion process is regulated (by dampers). Can be done with “winter” and “summer” running.
	Swede oven 2 With good efficiency, it is small in size. Ovens of this type are multifunctional. Food is cooked on them, water is heated, various foods and clothes are dried. Rooms are heated with such stoves.. In addition, the Swede can be wall-mounted; angular; in the center of the room; built into the wall.
	This design can be: wall-mounted; angular; in the center of the room; built into the wall. Dimensions - 115 x 90 x cm. Weight 2000 kg. Heat output with two fireboxes per day is 1900 kcal/h. Power = 4.2 kW. Can heat a house up to 40 m2.
	Equipped with an oven, a stove with one or two burners, and an upper drying chamber. In this design, the firebox is located on one side. It is possible to move the combustion door (if the customer requests it) to the opposite side.
	By combining a stove and a heating stove into a single structure, you will get a device of this design. There is a firebox with a stove, an oven and a heat shield.
	Plate with shield 6 Design dimensions: 102 x 102 x 217 cm. Weight (including shield) - 2800 kg. Heat transfer (with two fireboxes) - 3100 kcal/h. The front sides of the shield and slab are usually plastered.

Design and features of the Swedish stove

The lower niche heats up first, the second after. The upper niche is quite spacious. Warming up occurs with both the first, second, and final heat. The Swede heats the lower part first, since the flue gases from the firebox go down. Instead of a chimney for this oven, an overflow is made, which is placed below the oven. To preserve heat, after the firewood burns out, you need to close the valve. Vertical channels are considered a classic option. Horizontal channels heat better, but require more frequent cleaning.

Heating and cooking stove Swedish No. 2. Designed for a rural home. Has heating and cooking functions on the stove and oven. The most common design in northern latitudes.

The construction process of the Swedish

The process of constructing a Swedish stove. For the construction of the furnace, the following calculations are taken: for the stove - 71 by 41 centimeters; for the firebox (height, width, depth) 30 by 35 and 45 centimeters; for oven 30 by 35 and 50 centimeters. These dimensions may vary depending on the oven version. The metal walls for the oven must be at least 4 millimeters. The distance from the edge of the grate to the oven should be about one brick. There should be a gap of a quarter brick from the back of the oven to the firebox. The oven is made of dense cast metal.

Orders of the Shvedka stove

When the oven approaches the firebox, the walls are additionally protected with vermiculite. The door must be cast iron. It is attached to the masonry, which guarantees reliable fixation.

Before masonrybrick ovensThe floor is thermally insulated. Insulation can be made from basalt cardboard. The insulation is laid so that at the end a 1.5 centimeter layer is formed. The middle layer is made from a foil sheet.
The foot of the stove (the first 2 rows) is laid out with widened centimeter seams, this creates a ledge. The brick is moistened before laying. The next two rows form an ash pan and three doors are installed for cleaning the oven. The doors are mounted with a gap. An asbestos cord is inserted into the gaps.

With a two-layer stove made of red and fireclay bricks, a distance of 6 millimeters is made between them. The internal lining of the furnace is lined with fireclay bricks. The grate bars are inserted. And the oven is inserted into the same row. From the sixth to the ninth the combustion chamber is formed. The door is inserted. The tenth row covers the oven.

Next, the slab is laid and smoke channels are made. When laying the slab, quarters are cut out of the bricks.From the twelfth to the sixteenth, the cooking chamber and smoke exhaust channels are laid out. The next two are laid with trimmed bricks. From the twenty-first to the twenty-eighth there is a chimney. In the twenty-seventh, a valve is inserted with a basalt cord gasket in the gap. From the twenty-ninth row there is an extension for the cornice of 5 centimeters. The channels (except the pipe) are closed.

The next row is made even wider by 5 centimeters. Then the size is reduced to the original size. The pipe is laid out in 5 bricks. In front of the ceiling, 3 rows of pipes are fluffed up. The thickness of the pipe is one and a half bricks. An iron smoke cap is placed on top of the pipe. The pipe running outside the house is lined with cement mortar.

Materials

* ceramic brick m200, - 600 pcs.;
* brick-resistant, - 80 pcs.;
* fire door 210 x 250 mm - 1 pc.;
* blower door 250 x 140 mm - 1 pc.;
* cleaning door 140 x 140 mm - 5 pcs.;
* cast iron plate 410 x 710 mm - 1 pc.;
* oven 450 x 360 x 300 mm - 1 pc.;
* grate length 250 mm - 1 piece;
* pre-furnace sheet 500 x 700 mm - 1 pc.

Video: Do-it-yourself Swedish oven

Chimney

The Swede's chimney is made with a wider fluff. It rises above the ridge of the house to a height of at least 60 centimeters. The width of the fluff from the edges of the mouth should be half a brick in all directions. There should be a gap of 5-6 centimeters between the iron roof parts and the brick.

After building the stove, the Swede must dry and only then can it be used. To dry it, you can heat it daily with a minimum amount of aspen firewood. Warming up increases over time until it reaches full power. After this, you can use the Swedish stove.

At home or in the country, a Swedish heating and cooking stove with a stove and oven will become an indispensable, multifunctional device that will give odds to even modern heating equipment. To make such a structure, you will need at least a little experience as a stove builder. If there is none, it is recommended to seek help from a specialist, because when the Swedish stove is laid incorrectly, the stove will not function normally and heat the room.

Characteristics of the Swedish stove

The Swedish stove is almost as efficient as a classic stove, but it is compact, multifunctional and small in size, which is considered its main advantage. This type of construction differs little from, but there are still differences - the presence of a wall, thanks to which it will be possible to place the heating device in two rooms at the same time. In the harsh Swedish climate, the Dutch woman could not cope with the heating functions, so Swedish designers were given the task of taking these shortcomings into account and eliminating them by improving the design. So, we managed to build a Swedish stove that combines 2 main functions - heating and cooking.

What modifications are there?

The modern design of the device copes with its tasks better and more efficiently. Therefore, there are different device options that allow you to use the oven for a variety of functions. Common types by purpose:

This kind of construction can be done with a bed.

• Heating and cooking stoves made of brick with a fireplace. In this case, the side with the hob is located in the kitchen, and the firebox and fireplace portal open into the main room.
• Heating and hob with oven. The hob and oven are located in the kitchen area, and the back wall heats the main room.
• Swede with a bed. The kitchen has an oven and hob, and the living room has a lounger, which serves as a heated bed in cold weather. It is difficult to make such a structure on your own, because the scheme is complex.

Depending on the type of shield construction, the gas duct design is:

• horizontal;
• vertical;
• bell-shaped

Other types

Over time, the heating device was modified, the functional purpose and design changed, simple and complicated drawings appeared. The Swedish Reznik stove with three firing modes - summer, winter and autumn - is still popular to this day. The simplified Buslaev stove has proven itself well, where bottom heating is carried out, and a hob with an exhaust design is also provided. For a large home, the best option is the Batsulina two-bell Swedish stove, which can be built without an oven or with one. The Moskvichka mini-oven, complete with an oven and hob, is ideal for a dacha.

For a bathhouse, it is recommended to purchase a ready-made metal heating device “Greyvari” of the Cuirassier 15 Swede series with an additionally installed hot water boiler and modern automatic air ventilation, which ensures unhindered access of oxygen in the room.

Advantages and disadvantages

The stove is efficiently fired by coal.

If the oven is arranged correctly and the location is optimal, the Swede will fire within 10-15 minutes. will heat the room, and when the fuel burns out, it will maintain a comfortable temperature in the room for a long time. In a Swedish stove, coal, reeds, small chips, and firewood can be burned without any problems, while the amount of heat released is enormous. The stove itself takes up little space, which is the optimal solution for owners whose country house is of limited size.

A DIY folded brick oven has other advantages:

• Multifunctionality. If the stove is supplemented with an oven and hob, the device will create additional comfort and ease of use.
• Possibility to heat two rooms at the same time.
• Economical consumption of fuel materials.

But before you put such a device at home, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the disadvantages, among which the most significant are:

• Demanding requirements for the choice of building material. To build the device, you need to purchase high-quality bricks that can withstand high temperatures.
• The complexity of laying the stove. Folding the device yourself, without certain knowledge, will not be easy. If the layout is made incorrectly, the stove will not function effectively and everything will have to be redone.

How to fold a Swede with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Preparation of drawings and materials

For proper masonry, detailed construction plans are needed.

In order for the Swedish stove to function at full capacity, a detailed masonry diagram is needed. To avoid mistakes when constructing the device, it is better to seek help from a master stove maker. He will help determine the optimal size of the stove so that the home is fully heated, and will also calculate the optimal amount of materials.

To install a stove with an oven and hob, you will need to purchase the following materials:

• refractory fireclay brick;
• special clay for the construction of stoves;
• cast iron doors, hob, dampers, valves, metal oven;
• asbestos cord and sheets;
• grate;
• valve for smoke channels;
• metal corners;
• finishing materials for decoration.

To arrange the structure you will need the following tools:

• shovels - shovel and bayonet;
• container for mixing the solution;
• bucket;
• rubber mallet;
• mixer for mixing the mortar mixture;
• level, plumb line, protractor, rule;
• Master OK.

Location determination

The first fragment of the furnace is laid out without mortar to determine the optimal location for its location.

The correct location of the stove also plays an important role. It is important that the doors of the structure open conveniently, then nothing will interfere with loading firewood. It is also necessary to provide for the installation of a chimney - it is placed between the load-bearing floor beams. To understand how the device will be located in the room, it is recommended to lay the first row on a dry surface without mortar. Thus, it will be possible to roughly determine the placement of important elements.

Laying the foundation

The stove foundation is formed separately from the base of the house. This will protect the heating device from premature destruction. The stages of laying the foundation are as follows:

1. The perimeter of the future structure is marked on the wooden floor with an allowance of 10-15 cm.
2. Using a grinder, a hole of the required size is cut.
3. A pit is dug 65-80 cm deep.
4. The bottom of the ditch is covered with sand 150-200 mm thick and compacted well.
5. Then a layer of crushed stone is laid, after which the formwork is formed.
6. For waterproofing, before pouring the foundation, a layer of roofing felt is laid.
7. The base is filled with cement-sand mortar, then additionally reinforced.

Most homeowners who want to acquire a brick stove build a traditional Russian one - as the most economical. But if the house is modest in size, this tempting option becomes unacceptable: it takes up quite a lot of space. You have to choose a more compact variety, and in this case the best choice is a Swedish stove. By following step-by-step steps, you can build it yourself.

What is so special about the Swedish stove?

Swedish oven options

According to its purpose, the “Swedish” refers to heating and cooking stoves, and there is every reason to consider it the most successful among them. It is more convenient to cook on it than in a Russian oven, since the housewife does not have to bend over and use a grip. In addition to the hob, there is an oven in which you can prepare baked goods and quickly reheat dishes. And to top it all off, the classic “Swedish” has a niche designed for drying things.

The original model of the Swedish stove

The design of the stove allows its back side, which opens into the living room (the front part with the stove is located in the kitchen), to be equipped with a warm bench or fireplace.

In addition to functional ones, the “Swedish” also has technical advantages:

1. Fast warm-up.
2. Simple device and low cost. In this regard, the Swedish stove is comparable to the Dutch one, but has higher efficiency (60% versus 40%) and heat transfer (“Dutch” with a power of 2.9 kW and “Swedish” with a power of 4.1 kW have equal material consumption).
3. The presence of an oven, which, with the door open, within a few minutes after the start of the fire (even waste fuel can be used), provides forced infrared heating of the wet or frozen user.
4. Downward smoke circulation after the firebox, providing high-quality heating of the stove not only from above, but also from below.
5. The temperature of the flue gases in the channel part is low, due to which it can be built from ordinary bricks using cement-sand mortar.
6. Plastic. Strict canons have to be followed only when constructing the smaller, high-temperature part of the furnace. The rest can be adjusted to almost any home without loss of quality.
7. The ability to extract heat for preparing hot water without deteriorating the combustion mode in the furnace.
8. Possibility to “connect” the bed.

The listed advantages can be countered by the following disadvantages:

1. Due to the significant heat load, the high-temperature part of the furnace has to be built only from the highest quality materials. High demands are also placed on the quality of work (the craftsman must have sufficient experience).
2. If you forget to close the view after the fuel has completely burned out, the stove will cool down very quickly.
3. A foundation is required. This is due to the uneven load on individual parts of the furnace and its elongated shape.

Without a reliable foundation, the unit will be unstable.

Furnace structure

If Russian and Dutch stoves are considered to be the product of folk ingenuity, then the “Swedish” stove has a well-defined team of authors. It was headed by academicians of the Swedish Academy of Sciences K. Konstedt and F. Wörd. The then leadership of the country set a task for the developers: to create a stove that would be better adapted to the cold and humid local climate and fuel shortages than the most common “Dutch stove” in Europe at that time. In addition, the new unit had to be compact in size (the lack of land does not allow the Swedes to build too spacious houses) and be as simple and inexpensive as possible.

What we got in the end consists of two parts: one is a chamber oven, in which the chamber, blown by hot flue gases, is also an oven; the second is a duct convector from a Dutch oven stretched to the sides and placed behind the first part. It seems like nothing complicated, but it took a long time and painstakingly to select and calculate the parameters at which the efficiency of the unit, heating rate and heat transfer would be maximum.

Swedish oven diagram

Let's look at the technical features:

1. The purpose of the chamber part, in addition to cooking, is to absorb the very first heat generated during the combustion of light fractions of coal and firewood. This is the first difference from the “Dutch”: in it this heat was almost completely thrown out into the chimney, since the brick did not have time to absorb it due to its low thermal conductivity.
2. The Dutch oven did not have a zone for afterburning such fractions. The “Swedish” was equipped with a kind of hood, in which the gases completely burn out, and for the best absorption of thermal energy, a large metal oven was installed into the brick body of the stove (item 1). Due to the high thermal conductivity of steel, it heats up almost instantly, which made the effect of forced heating possible.
3. If the cooking niche with the stove installed in it (item 2) is closed with a wooden damper, then the dishes prepared for breakfast and left on the stove will still be warm in the morning. They can be quickly reheated in the oven, which will heat up almost simultaneously with the start of the morning heating.
4. The oven was also equipped with a spacious drying niche (item 3), in which a couple of sets of very wet clothes can be completely dried overnight.
5. In order to simplify and reduce the cost of the design of the hilo, which is a rather complex element, Swedish engineers did not use it. A transfer window was simply installed under the oven. This is precisely the reason for the inability of the “Swede” to retain heat for a long time after heating with the view open.
6. The role of a heat accumulator is played by a vertically elongated channel convector installed behind the chamber furnace. It is designed according to the Dutch principle: inside there is a labyrinth of channels through which flue gases pass before entering the chimney. Here the heat generated during combustion and smoldering of the main mass of fuel is absorbed.

Initially, the channels were made vertical. At the same time, the heating of the lower part of the furnace deteriorated, but the fuel burned to a more complete extent. In the modification with a horizontal arrangement of channels, the bottom is heated much better, but the stove quickly becomes overgrown with soot (a sign of incomplete combustion of fuel). In general, manipulations with the channel part, which does not have any clever thermal devices, do not affect the characteristics of the stove in any way. You can safely vary its size and position relative to the chamber part, so that it becomes possible to heat 3 rooms.

Swedish oven placement option

“Swedish” can simultaneously take on the function of preparing hot water for domestic needs. A heat exchanger in the form of a curved pipe should be installed in the oven - here it will not affect the performance of the oven in any way. The storage tank is placed either in a drying niche or on the roof.

The vaults in the Swedish kiln are made not in the form of arches, but with the help of ceilings made of rolled steel - corners and strips. Typically, stove makers try to avoid introducing metal elements into the masonry - due to the significant difference in the values ​​of the coefficients of thermal expansion of brick and metal.

• the arched vault significantly increases the height of the stove, which was unacceptable for low Swedish ceilings;
• it leads to a noticeable increase in the cost of the design, since it is a rather complex unit.

As time has shown, the coexistence of brick and steel in a Swedish kiln is quite possible, unless there is direct contact between them: both materials should always be separated by a 6 mm wide seam filled with mortar.

Calculation

As already mentioned, the performance of a Swedish stove largely depends on the dimensions of the elements of the chamber part and their ratios. Here are the parameters that should be considered optimal:

1. Hob: 710x410 mm. It is important that its material has moderate thermal conductivity - special steel or cast iron is used. Otherwise, the burners will heat up too much, the stove will quickly burn out, and the combustion mode will be disrupted due to too intense heat extraction.
2. Combustion chamber: height - from 280 to 330 mm; width - 305 to 355 mm; depth - from 405 to 505 mm.
3. Oven: height - from 281 to 305 mm; width - from 330 to 380 mm; depth - from 455 to 505 mm.
4. Oven wall thickness: 4–6 mm. With a smaller wall thickness, this element will be short-lived (it will burn out quickly), with a larger one, it will take longer to heat up, which will lead to a drop in efficiency.
5. The distance between the oven and the edge of the grate closest to it: from ¾ to 1 brick. This size can be reduced by insulating the oven wall on the firebox side with vermiculite (the best option) or asbestos.
6. Clearance between the back wall of the oven and the wall of the firebox: ¼ brick (necessary for the oven to be blown with hot gases from the back).

Now something about proportions:

• The depth of the firebox is selected in accordance with its other dimensions. If the height and width are accepted as the minimum acceptable, then the depth should also be the smallest;
• if the values ​​of the first two sizes are taken from the middle of the permissible range, then the average depth should be assigned;
• the firebox with maximum height and width and depth should have maximum. If the depth of the firebox is increased disproportionately, underburning will occur; if you reduce it, the efficiency of the furnace will be reduced.

The depth of the oven is not so strictly tied to its height and width: it can be reduced by deviating from the proportion. But at the same time, this size should not be less than the specified minimum permissible value.

This article will discuss the procedure for constructing a “Swede” with a fireplace, having dimensions of 1020x890x2170 mm.

Materials

Over the course of geological history, Sweden has developed rich deposits of excellent fireclay clay based on aluminosilicates, so the Swedish stove was designed taking into account the availability of high-quality fireclay bricks. It is this that makes it possible to develop such a high temperature in the firebox that is necessary for complete afterburning of the fuel under conditions of active heat extraction by the oven.

Fireclay brick

It would be most correct to line the entire firebox with fireclay bricks, starting with the 3rd row and ending with the one laid on top of the slab. But in this case, the stove will turn out to be too expensive - due to the high cost of this material. Therefore, fireclay is usually used only for lining the walls of the firebox from the inside.

Other elements of the chamber part should be laid out of stove bricks (red ceramic solid) of grade M200. It is important that the edges of all ½ or ¾ brick blocks are smooth, so they cannot be prepared using a pick-hammer. You need to either cut it with a grinder or purchase it ready-made.

Kiln solid brick

A channel convector can be built from ordinary brick: since the afterburning of gases occurs in the chamber part, they enter here at a temperature below 800 degrees.

The solution is mixed using a special type of clay - ordinary clay is not suitable. As a rule, marl is used.

You will also need fireclay clay - the mortar for fireclay bricks will be mixed from it.

Fireclay clay

Mountain sand should be used, which is characterized by a minimum of organic impurities and an angular granule shape. A solution prepared on smooth river sand will quickly crack.

For the construction of a channel convector, a conventional cement-sand mortar is used.

High thermal loads place special demands on the combustion door. An inexpensive model made of sheet steel using the stamping method will quickly become loose. It is better to install a cast iron door with fasteners that are clamped between the bricks.

Stove door: cast iron

If you nevertheless decide to use a stamped door, you need to equip it with such fasteners yourself: two pieces of steel wire (annealed) with a diameter of 3–4 mm and a length of 50–70 mm are welded to each corner of the frame. During installation, these “antennae” are spread apart so that their ends are 40–50 mm apart from each other, and placed in the seams. On top of the stamped door you need to arrange an overlap of a steel angle or strip.

Door installation

Products and materials should be purchased according to the following specifications:

1. Kiln brick M200: 717 pcs. (excluding chimney).
2. Fireclay brick, grade Ш8: 154 pcs.
3. Asbestos cord.
4. Pieces of equal-flange steel angle 50x5 mm, length 1020–1030 mm: 2 pcs.
5. Pieces of steel strip 50x5 mm: 3 pcs. 920 mm long, 2 pcs. 54 mm long, 2 pcs. 48 mm long.
6. Grate with dimensions 200x300 mm.
7. Door for the firebox, size - 250x210 mm.
8. Blower door, size - 140x140 mm.
9. Cleaning doors size 140x140 mm: 8 pcs.
10. Oven with dimensions 450x360x300 mm.
11. Chimney dampers size 250x130 mm: 3 pcs.
12. Cooking plate dimensions 710x410 mm.
13. Fireplace grate 690–700 mm long. In the absence of a purchased one, you can weld it from a steel rod.
14. Material for installing a fireproof coating in front of the furnace: steel sheet with a thickness of 1.5 mm or ceramic tiles.

The floor must be protected within a radius of 1.2 m from the center of the fire door.

Site selection and preparatory work

The design of the Swedish stove provides for its placement in the partition between the kitchen and the living room or living room. In this case, it is important to make sure that the chimney does not rest against the attic floor beam or rafter leg.

Having decided on the location, they begin to build the foundation. Its sole should rest on a sufficiently strong layer of soil and be located below the depth of its freezing. If the room is constantly heated, that is, the soil does not freeze at all, they are buried by 600–700 mm; if it is left unattended for a long time in winter, the depth of the foundation should be chosen in accordance with the depth of soil freezing characteristic of the given region.

If the stove is being built at the same time as the house, the foundations of both structures should be made separate. Being connected, due to differences in the amount of shrinkage, they will have an undesirable effect on each other, resulting in distortion and deformation of the masonry.

On each side, the foundation should extend beyond the boundaries of the furnace by 100–150 mm.

Having prepared a recess with the required dimensions and depth, tamp its bottom and arrange a sand-crushed stone cushion on it: first, fill it with a layer of 100–200 mm of sand, which must be moistened with water and compacted; A layer of crushed stone 150–170 mm thick is laid on top of it, which is also compacted.

Reinforcing belt

After installing the formwork, the walls of which are lined with waterproofing from the inside (usually using roofing felt), they begin to pour the foundation. This process is divided into three stages:

1. Rough concrete consisting of coarse crushed stone, cement and a small amount of sand is laid in a 150 mm layer. A mesh of reinforcing steel must be pressed into this solution.
2. Cement-sand mortar is poured on top of the concrete in such an amount that its surface is flush with the ground. When this layer hardens a little, the reinforcing mesh is also pressed into it.
3. Next, the formwork is filled with concrete to the very top (approximately 100 mm above the floor level), which should be well leveled on top. The foundation will be ready for further work in 25–28 days, when it has completely hardened.

Poured foundation for the furnace

Since the lower part of the “Swedish” warms up very well, on top of the mature foundation, in addition to waterproofing, you need to lay a fairly thick heat-insulating layer. The best option is three sheets of basalt cardboard, each 5 mm thick, and the middle one should be foil.

Advice. If you are going to cut a brick into halves and three-quarters with a grinder, then it is better to do it ahead of time in the open air: this operation is accompanied by the formation of a huge amount of dust. When performing work indoors, the master will very soon simply not be able to breathe.

Do-it-yourself masonry of a Swedish stove with a stove: order

When building a furnace, bricks are laid as shown in the order. The following explanations will help you do the job correctly:

first row masonry

Rows No. 1 and 2 represent the foot of the oven. They are characterized by increased seam width - from 6 to 13 mm. Thanks to this, the body of the furnace will be located, as it were, on a slightly protruding pedestal. Bricks should be rinsed with water for 10–15 seconds before applying the solution. This procedure will help get rid of dust and ensure reliable contact with the solution. The clay mixture sticks much worse to a dry, dusty surface and the masonry turns out to be fragile, which is unacceptable under conditions of high thermal stress.

Note! You cannot keep a brick under water for a long time, much less soak it for a long time. The moisture absorbed by it will be released into the solution, causing it to liquefy, so that the masonry may ultimately collapse even before the completion of construction work.

On the 2nd row it is necessary to lay support rods for the fireplace grate, which should be immediately welded to them.

Order: row two

Near No. 3, the formation of cleaning channels, a blower chamber, a vertical smoke circulation channel and a niche for installing an oven begins. A fireplace insert is formed on the back side of the stove.

Third row masonry

Installed doors can be temporarily supported with bricks until the fasteners are secured in subsequent rows.

In the back of the oven niche you need to create a passage connected to the cleaning chambers. For this purpose, the corner of the brick installed in this place is trimmed.

Row No. 4 is identical to 3, only the bricks are laid slightly differently - bandaging of the seams is ensured.

Row four

Advice. Don’t rush to lay the bricks on the mortar right away. First, each row is laid out dry: perhaps some bricks have unacceptably large dimensional deviations and will need to be replaced.

From the 5th row, the formation of the smoke tooth overlap begins. A grate is installed on the same row. Fireclay bricks are marked in yellow in the order. It is important to remember: due to the significant difference in the coefficients of thermal expansion, the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry must have a width of at least 6 mm.

Row five

Attention! Do not neglect rounding the edges on the bricks if this is prescribed by the order. The “Swedish” is characterized by weak thrust and smoothing the corners is necessary to prevent the formation of vortices, which worsen it even more.

The oven and firebox door should be wrapped with asbestos cord before installation. It will play the role of a seal (for the door) and at the same time provide the metal elements with the opportunity to expand freely when heated.

In row No. 6, the wall between the firebox and the oven begins, which consists of bricks laid on spoons (edge). We were able to reduce its thickness to ¼ brick by thermal insulation of the oven in the form of winding with asbestos cord.

Row six

Rows No. 7, 8 and 9 are laid out in order. Please note that in the 7th and 9th rows the niches are covered with steel strips. As already mentioned, between the steel and the brick you need to leave a gap of 6 mm, filled with mortar.

Order: rows 7–12

Having laid out the 9th row, you need to let the solution dry, after which you should smooth the smoke tooth using a grinder. It is also recommended to smooth out the internal overlaps (this will slightly increase the efficiency), but you cannot get close to them with a grinder - you need to trim them off.

It is necessary to cut quarters in the bricks of row No. 10 to install the hob. If it has stiffening ribs, grooves are cut for them. The slab is placed on the mortar, but asbestos strips must first be laid under it.

Row ten

A cleaning door is installed in the same row.

Those parts of the row that overlap the firebox door and oven niche are reinforced with steel corners.

In the 11th row, the bricks above the firebox need to be cut obliquely. Sloping edges will deflect rising smoke towards the chimney.

Row eleven

Subsequent rows should be laid out according to the diagram. Please note: in the 14th row, the bricks move out by 25 mm - a mantelpiece is formed.

Row fourteen

In the 16th row, a steel strip is used to cover the cooking niche, and the front part of this row is reinforced with a steel corner.

Order from the 15th row

Having laid the 17th and 18th rows in accordance with the order, they begin to form the openings of the chimneys (row No. 19). In this case, the brick installed between the stove (vertical) and fireplace smoke exhaust ducts must be cut obliquely on both sides.

Row nineteen

Cleaning doors are installed on the 19th, 21st and 22nd rows.

Row twenty first

Valves are installed in rows No. 24 and 25.

Row twenty-four

In the 26th row, the vertical channel is combined with a gas outlet, and the last cleaning door used to clean the channels is installed here.

Row twenty-six

Having laid out the 27th and 28th rows in order, block all the channels (rows 29 and 30). The bricks in the chimney opening must be cut at an angle.

Row thirty-one

In the 31st row, a common chimney damper is installed, and from the 32nd row, the construction of the chimney begins.

Row thirty-two

Chimney

The Swedish stove is characterized by significant resistance to the flow of flue gases, so it cannot boast of decent draft. In this regard, it is recommended to raise the chimney head at least 60 cm above the ridge. At the same time, it should be equipped with a fairly wide fluff (widening), which will cut and, as it were, throw up the wind flow, preventing it from being blown into the pipe.

The minimum thickness of the chimney wall is half a brick.

Where the chimney intersects the ceiling and the roof, fire-proof cuttings are required. They will prevent overheating and ignition of wooden building structures. The cutting can be done either in the form of fluff, or in the form of an asbestos shell, or in the form of a steel box filled with a mixture of expanded clay and sand.

It is convenient to seal the gap between the chimney and the roofing with special adhesive tape “Onduband”.

Sealing a pipe with onduband

You may also find this material with step-by-step instructions for installing a brick chimney useful:.

Commissioning

The finished oven is left alone to dry for 2 weeks. If dry, warm weather is observed outside during this period, no additional measures need to be taken. But in damp conditions, the oven will have to be dried with a fan heater.

For the next 2 weeks, the furnace is continuously heated with high-quality fuel - aspen or anthracite (produces a minimum of soot), loading it in an amount of 2–4 kg. As soon as one load burns out, the next one is placed and set on fire immediately, or at least at certain intervals. At the same time, you need to push crumpled dry newspapers or wrapping paper into the cleaning doors.

The paper liners will act as indicators: as soon as they stop getting damp, drying the oven can be considered complete. They cannot ignite unless fuel is loaded in the specified small volumes.

Next comes the accelerating firebox. 2 days are allotted for it, during which the stove is heated twice a day (morning and evening, 4 fireboxes in total) with a gradual increase in the fuel load from the smallest to the maximum. At this stage, the multi-pass furnace must be switched to winter operation.

If you choose a suitable brick stove design, then pay attention to corner fireplaces: . One of the advantages is the ability to use two heating modes.

Water circuit equipment

The hot water coil should be placed at the back of the oven. The storage tank can be installed in two ways:

1. In the drying niche: the maximum possible volume is 120 l. The tank is located low, so it is convenient to fill it manually - important for houses without running water. But the pressure at such a height will be weak.
2. On the roof of the stove: the tank is given an L-shape to increase the contact area with the chimney. Unlike the first option, it is oriented horizontally and has a height of only 400–450 mm.

Equipment of the Swedish oven with a water circuit

Thermal insulation is best made from foil-coated basalt cardboard 10 mm thick, but basalt wool with a density of 30–50 kg/m3 can also be used. The outside of the tank with thermal insulation must be lined with moisture-resistant plasterboard.

When connecting the tank to the water supply, it must be equipped with a float valve for the toilet cistern. In this case, it is important to ensure that cold water flows to the very bottom of the container, otherwise it will constantly mix with hot water, lowering its temperature. For this purpose, an oblique partition that does not reach the bottom is welded into the tank, along which cold water flows down.

In a vertically oriented tank (installation in a drying niche), a simpler solution can be used - put a vertical tube on the valve, the second end of which is located at the very bottom. But this technique is less effective: hot water will remain only in the upper two-thirds of the tank.

Video: DIY Swedish oven

For a small house in which a Russian stove would look too bulky, the Swedish stove is the most suitable option. It has a relatively simple structure, is quite functional and at the same time not as gluttonous as the “Dutch”. But during long periods of downtime, the “Swedish” actively absorbs moisture, which has to be disposed of by repeated accelerating fires.

Among the wide range of modern heating equipment, the Swedish stove occupies a special position due to the combination of the best properties of multi-pass and bell-type models. This heating unit is highly efficient: provided that the efficiency reaches 80%, the stove pleases with its versatility and compact size.

Compared to the common Russian stove, the brick Swede has minimal dimensions: without additional extensions it occupies 1 m² of usable area, the height reaches 2 m. Multifunctionality is ensured thanks to the possibility of installing a fireplace on the living room side, a hob directly in the kitchen, as well as an oven, dryer and sun lounger With a smaller mass than its relatively common Russian counterpart, the Swede exhibits the same high heat transfer.

If you introduce additional valves, you can configure “winter” and “summer” heating modes. The unit heats up within 15 minutes; unlike other stoves, you can use coal, pallets, firewood, and peat with equal success. Even in harsh climatic conditions, a two-time firebox is enough to maintain an optimal daily microclimate.

The heat exchanger, assembled from vertically or horizontally directed channels, does not require labor-intensive maintenance. If you follow basic rules, you can avoid the formation of plugs from combustion products. But we must remember that high performance indicators will be achieved only if selected materials are used: for example, for masonry you will need high-quality ceramic and fireclay bricks.

The only vulnerability of the model may be the firebox door. This part operates under conditions of maximum thermal loads, made of stamped sheet, it will quickly fail. Cast iron specimens equipped with “whiskers” or fastenings in the form of claws are optimal.

Structural and functional features

The main advantage of a Swedish brick stove is its compactness - even “tiny” ones can cope with the maintenance of residential premises. In this model, combustion products are delivered to the pipe through a channel chimney. Bell elements located above the drying chamber and firebox are responsible for heat exchange. If a Swedish stove is installed with an oven, the latter is placed on the same level as the firebox, which ensures quick heating.

Hob

A Swedish stove with a stove is a traditional configuration; it involves the use of a thick cast iron plate, in which there are 2 lockable burners. Typically, such slabs have standard dimensions of 410x710 mm. The height of the firebox varies between 280-330 mm, the width reaches 350 mm, and the length reaches 550 mm.

Gas channel system

The channels can be horizontally or vertically oriented; the smoke passing through them heats up the structure, and the room is heated from its walls. This is an economical and highly efficient system: the heat that seeps through the pipe in conventional Russian stoves is here directed directly to heating.

If the flue channels in a Swedish heating stove are horizontal, the walls of the structure are heated more evenly. But in this case, more cleaning holes with molded doors will have to be introduced into the system, which will increase the final cost of the masonry.

Vertically located channels can function perfectly with one technical hatch, but here another problem arises - uneven heating of the furnace. The shield in the first channel, into which combustion products are immediately directed, becomes hot faster compared to the third (output). That is, one room may be cooler than another.

The bell-type device works with one cleaning window, the surface of the furnace is evenly heated, and less bricks are required for construction. The unit cools down more slowly, since heat is retained in the upper part of the hoods, and ventilation from the doors is carried out only in the center.

Oven

The large volume of the cabinet allows you to prepare a wide range of dishes, it is convenient to use. The oven is made of cast iron; tin or sheet variations are not acceptable here; it will be needed not only for baking - the special design helps to quickly warm up the room immediately after kindling, if you open the door.

The box is comparable in size to the size of the firebox; it is mounted in close proximity, but so as not to have direct contact with the flame. The optimal oven wall thickness is 4-6 mm.

Convenient extensions – a couch and a fireplace

Often the heating device is equipped with a fireplace on the front or back side (that is, it will be installed either in the kitchen or in the living room). The chimney can be combined or separate. In the first case, a single structure is formed, it is easier to assemble, and little material is needed. But you can heat it either with a stove or a fireplace. Separate chimneys are not as economical to build, but they allow you to use both heating methods at the same time.

Swede stoves with a stove bench are in great demand. This device is assembled from the back of the unit, its standard length is 7 bricks, width is 3 bricks. The smoke channels passing inside heat this podium when certain valves are opened. Typically, such oven models are not equipped with an oven.

Auxiliary shelves and niches

On the front side, 2 large shelves are built into Swedish models, both located above the hob. The lower shelf heats up more, the upper one uses only the heat transfer of the brick. If you close the niche opening with a wooden or metal door, a kind of low-temperature oven is formed.

Auxiliary shelves and niches in a Swedish oven are often used for drying berries and mushrooms

Simple models use straight horizontal floors. Arched structures look more interesting and can become the highlight of the interior, although they are difficult to assemble and increase the consumption of materials.

Do-it-yourself Swedish stove: ordering a model with 3 modes

The operation of traditional configurations does not imply modes; such units are very difficult to melt in winter - smoke penetrates into the room. If there is a “summer” mode, the closed valve is moved back only after the neglected section of the chimney has warmed up. Thanks to the temperature difference formed during this 5-minute period, the necessary draft is created. The third, “autumn” mode improves functionality during the spring and autumn period of use.

Supplies overview

Such variations are small in size - 30 rows are enough, another 2 are used to form a pipe. Such a Swedish brick stove has dimensions of 114x76 cm, reaches a height of 210 cm, the parameters of the pipe and materials for it are usually indicated separately in the order.

Materials for masonry:

• red stove brick (solid);
• fireproof (fireclay) brick;
• cast iron hob;
• cast firebox door;
• doors for cleaning holes and blower;
• valves;
• grate;
• oven;
• steel corners;
• sheet metal.

Masonry mortar is made on a clay base.

Arrangement of the Swedish stove

The first 2 rows are laid solid from oven bricks, with bandaging; here it is important to observe geometry - adhere to right angles, make sure that the diagonals are the same.

For the third row, take fireclay and add 1 red brick, here the ash chamber and the oven compartment are already outlined, and a vertical channel is formed to the rudiments of the lower cap. The material used to form the passage is sawed off. Cleaning holes must be provided in the side walls; at the same stage, the ash pan door is installed.

The fourth row is placed in the same way, but the passage between the oven and the hood is slightly reduced. 2 strips of metal are mounted above the ash pan door. In the 5th row these plates are covered with bricks. At this stage, a grate is introduced and the passage to the hood is further narrowed. Hereinafter, only fireclay bricks are used for masonry.

At the 6th stage, the firebox begins to take shape. When forming the entrance to it, 2 bricks are cut at an acute angle. The passage between the oven and the hood is immediately blocked, and an oven chamber is installed. In the 7th row, the firebox continues to be laid out; a door is inserted into it.

Next, in 8-10 rows, a fuel chamber is formed; again, part of the red brick is used for work. The oven is also lined here. The tenth row is marked by the union of two chambers - the firebox and the oven.

In the 11th row, a “summer” mode channel is laid, grooves are cut out in the fireclay material for installing a cast iron plate (here compensation for thermal expansion must be taken into account), and an asbestos cord is placed in the gaps. The outer edge of the hob is insulated with a metal corner.

At the 12th stage, the cooking chamber is designed and the “summer” mode channel is laid. The lower cap ends in the 13th row and is covered with red brick. Change in the 14th row - an oblique undercut of one brick in the right vertical channel.

Rows 15-16 – laying out the first horizontal channel. The 17th is similar, also here the supports for the arch above the hob are placed - a corner and 2 metal strips. At 18-19 the vault is closed, the valve is inserted for the “summer” mode.

20th row - laying the drying niche, the second horizontal channel, as well as the “autumn” valve. 21st – preparation for further blocking of the “summer” channel, formation of a hole for the installation of a cleaning door.

22nd – the “summer” channel is divided in two, in the 23rd they are overlapped. In the 24th row, a small drying chamber is laid; at the next stage, the third horizontal channel and two already formed vertical ones are combined. The 26th is focusing on the horizontal channel, preparations are underway for the introduction of a damper.

The 27th row completes the drying chambers, the next step is to block all the channels, lay out the bricks with a 3 cm protrusion, and remove the main smoke channel. In the 29th row, the protrusion increases by another 3 cm, the formation of the smoke channel continues, the next stage is similar, but in its original dimensions.

At the final positions, the chimney is brought out to a given height.

In winter, all the power of the structure is used, that is, the basic mode is activated. Thanks to the valve, the “summer” stage uses only part of the potential, and the “autumn” stage will allow the use of a little more than half of the channels. These measures allow you to optimize the heating process and save fuel.