For repairs and other technical issues here. Repair of household and office equipment.
Motor connection Vyatka - automatic. Krasnodar Kuban.
The electric motor from the Vyatka washing machine is an automatic machine designed to operate in a single-phase network. Consists of two working and two reverse coils. Together with the capacitors, they create the direction of rotation of the shaft.
Various modifications of engines were installed at Vyatki, but their characteristics were approximately the same. They all have two reverse rotation speeds. 2200 rpm min. for spinning and 450 vol. min per wash cycle.
According to the number of connection terminals, the motors were 6-pin and 5-pin.
But their wiring diagram was the same - five-wire. In 6-contact electric motors, contacts 1 and 4 (the first two) are short-circuited, this is the common output of the connection to the network.
The second mains wire connects to one of the two capacitors. Moreover, there is forward rotation at one end of the capacitor, and reverse rotation of each speed at the other. For a speed of 2200 rpm, a paper capacitor is placed at 16 microfarads, and at 450 rpm - 12 microfarads. It is advisable to choose the voltage of the capacitors at least 500 volts.
When turned on correctly, the motors can easily start in both directions. The only thing that needs to be done when reversing the direction of rotation is to wait until the rotation of the shaft has come to a complete stop. The windings of these motors cannot withstand high currents.
Thermal contact, if the motor will run in frost, it is better to turn it off. They burst at subzero temperatures as well as overheating.
A neighbor at the entrance put an automatic washing machine on the landing for further removal to the trash, as a repairman told him, a kirdyk came to the motor. Not only Samodelkin, not when in life, will pass by the thrown out unit without taking it for parts or at least not looking inside at the contents. I am sick of the same, I decided to save my neighbor from hard physical work, taking the unit to the trash can and took it for spare parts to my village.
In the photo: One of the most useful parts of the inside of a washing machine.
Everything was dismantled into useful bells and whistles and it was time to check the condition of the engine.
Paragraph 1. Checking the motor.
To check the motor and upgrade the Lighting Dimmer, we need tools.
* Instrument (tester)
* Electrician's side cutters
*Dimmer
* Soldering iron
Inside there was such a collector universal motor MCA 52 \ 64 -148 \ KT11 390W. 13000 RPM
In the picture we see a seven-pin large connector, on the left all monochrome blue wires come out (to make it more difficult for the layman to understand) and one yellow-green (ground), on the right there are wires that go directly into the motor, if you look from the top, then two red (on the travel sensor ), blue for brush 1, purple for another brush 2, black (midpoint of the motor windings), orange (two stator windings).
We will strip all the outgoing blue wires for continuity with their device.
Disconnect the connector and call the tester which of the blue wires to which motor wire comes, so as not to forget, you need to write down, sketch.
For a simple start of the motor, we only need two orange, blue and purple wires, the rest can be bitten off or isolated for future homemade products.
According to this scheme, you need to connect the motor.
You can check the operation of the motor, everything works (as in most cases it does), only the bearings should be replaced.
This is how the repair specialists carry out the diagnostics, the price of such a new motor is 6000 rubles + installation work.
Point 2. Reverse.
This type of motor can be reversed, which is what the washing machine does during washing, for this you need to change the connection of the brush from one winding to another, only to do this after a complete stop and the motor is de-energized.
Scheme. Reverse with a toggle switch.
The toggle switch itself.
Point 3. Regulation of revolutions by a light dimmer.
You can also adjust the speed by decreasing - increasing the current, for example, using a wire rheostat of the required power or using a triac with a PWM controller.
As the simplest and most affordable, this is a dimmer for lighting (photo below), only before the first connection you need to look at what maximum current the regulator is designed for, we need a tenfold overlap of the rated power of the motor, because the starting current of our motor jumps from 8-10A and higher, even without load.
The cheapest dimmer.
If the dimmer turned out to be like mine at 3A, then it can be modified by finding the necessary triac right on the control board of the washing machine itself, where all the parameters are just calculated for this motor.
To do this, we will trace the path from the place where the motor terminal is connected to the board and along the widest paths, one of which will definitely fit on one of the legs of the part we need (in my case, this is a BTB16 triac with three legs).
Disconnect the radiator mount and solder the part being careful not to overheat.
We solder the resulting triac together with the radiator to replace the old part in the regulator, now you can safely connect a load of 10 A and at the time of start-up even up to 16A.
We connect the regulator (Dimmer) to the break of one motor power wire, plug it in and turn the regulator knob, the motor should start rotating, and the speed should correspond to the position of the regulator knob.
If, when connected to the network, the motor is in any of the regulator positions or is constantly working without changing the speed, then the part (triac) turned out to be punctured (burned out), provided that the regulator itself was initially in good order.
Now we need to make a new case for Dimmer, the old one has become too small for him. But that is another story.
Content:Washing machines wear out and fail over time. Most often they are simply thrown into a landfill. However, in many cases, parts from a washing machine can come in handy. There are many options for a second life for an electric motor. It all depends on the skills, capabilities and imagination of the home master. In this article, you will find out where you can apply a washing machine motor if it is in working order. Consider what homemade products from the engine from the washing machine can be made.
Electric motor for grinder or emery
Buying a ready-made grinding machine is not always possible, primarily due to the high price, and in this case, an electric motor from a washing machine or other equipment becomes literally indispensable.
A lot of effort requires the correct layout of the future unit, as well as the solution of such a technical problem as the attachment of a grinding stone to the motor shaft. In many cases, there is no thread on it, and the diameters of the shaft and the hole in the stone do not match. The usual way out of the situation is to use a special part, which must be ordered separately from the turner in the workshop. This part can be called a flange, adapter, hub, etc.
The flange to be machined must fit onto the shaft and be fixed with a bolt. In addition, you will need a washer and nut with threads pointing in the opposite direction to the rotation of the motor shaft. Due to this, during operation, spontaneous tightening of the nut will occur. Otherwise, the nut will quickly unscrew and the stone will fly off.
If necessary, you can change the direction of rotation of the rotor. They are installed in washing machines, therefore, it is enough to switch the corresponding windings, and the direction of rotation will change. A starter coil is required to start the engine. If it is absent, then there is nothing to worry about: when the stone is pushed in the right direction, the device will work on its own.
For the manufacture of a grinding machine, it is not at all necessary to use high-powered motors. 400 W is quite enough, and even 100-200 W. Pay attention to the number of revolutions per minute, which should not exceed 3000. Otherwise, the motor with too high a speed can lead to destruction of the grindstone. The best option is an electric motor with 1000 rpm.
The operation of a homemade grinding machine presupposes strict adherence to safety rules. First of all, it is necessary to provide a protective cover to protect the worker from abrasive dust and small debris. For this, a metal with a thickness of 2.0-2.5 mm is suitable in the form of a strip rolled into a half-ring. In addition, it will be necessary to make a handcuff to ensure the support of the processed parts.
Converting an electric motor from a washing machine to a generator
Many home craftsmen are engaged in the manufacture of homemade generators using electric motors from household appliances, including washing machines. This task is fraught with certain difficulties, primarily of a technical nature. You will definitely need the services of a qualified turner already at the first stage of work.
First of all, it is necessary to disassemble the asynchronous motor removed from the faulty washing machine. Then the core falls into the hands of a turner, who removes a layer of an element with a depth of 2 mm on the machine. Then grooves are cut in the core to a depth of 5 mm, into which the neodymium magnets will be inserted. It is recommended to make the grooves after purchasing the magnets, when their sizes become known.
After completing all the work, it is necessary to fix the neodymium magnets on the core. For this purpose, a template is made of tin or other thin metal. Its dimensions must match the dimensions of the core and the width of the grooves, and it must fit exactly into the place where the magnets are installed. The magnets are located on the core at the same distance from each other and are fixed with glue. In addition to distance, the angle of inclination of each element is of great importance. Deviations from the standard dimensions can cause sticking, as a result of which the power of the generator is noticeably reduced.
Cold welding is used to fill the gaps between the magnets. Finally, the surface of the rotor is sanded with sandpaper, after which a complete assembly of the device is performed.
The assembled generator must be tested. For this purpose, you will need a small battery, a rectifier, a multimeter and a charge controller. The connection takes place according to a certain scheme. The charge controller is connected to the two generator windings through a rectifier. Then the controller and multimeter must be connected to the battery.
For a normal check, it is necessary to ensure the rotation of the rotor of the electric motor. This operation cannot be performed manually, so use a drill or screwdriver. The tool is connected to the rotor of the motor, after which it starts rotating at a speed of about 800-1000 rpm. With a good assembly of the generator, the output voltage is 220-300 V. A lower voltage indicates a poor-quality rotor assembly.
Once assembled and tested, the generator can be used. This will require the energy required to rotate the rotor. You can connect to a small combustion engine such as a chainsaw or motorcycle. However, this method requires the purchase of an energy carrier. Therefore, other options are recommended, relatively inexpensive and environmentally friendly, associated with the use of wind or water energy.
All home craftsmen should remember that an electric motor from a washing machine can be converted into a generator with a power of no more than 5 kW. Typically, such devices produce an average of 2 kW, sufficient for 1-2 rooms or a bath. So it will not be possible to completely replace the electrical network with a homemade generator.
Lathe from the engine from the washing machine
The washing machine motor is ideal for making a small wood lathe. The basis of the structure is a frame, which can be made of a corner, shaped pipes and other materials at hand. Frame dimensions are within 100 x 20 cm, with possible deviations in one direction or another.
The electric motor is fine from an old washing machine, perhaps even from Soviet times. For example, the Vyatka-automatic machine was equipped with an asynchronous motor with two speeds at 400 and 3000 rpm. The connection can be made according to all known schemes, including using a capacitor.
The system of fastening the engine to the frame is carried out individually. The most important thing is that the motor axis is parallel to the support structure. This can be done using washers, which, if necessary, are placed in the support points. The headstock is attached to the motor pulley. The tailstock and guides are also made from available tools. The axis of the tailstock must be parallel to the frame and the headstock, that is, it must be centered.
An important detail is the handrail, which acts as a support for the cutting tool. It is necessary to ensure its movement along and across the bed, as well as reliable fixation during operation.
Electric motor for wood splitter
The base of the design, as in the lathe, is the bed. It is made from a metal profile or a square. The resulting site will consist of two zones - power and working. The power side is intended for the installation of an electric motor. It must be securely fastened, since the main load falls on it.
The engine control unit is located in the same area. To accommodate electrical components, a dielectric plate is provided, and they themselves should, if possible, fit in a plastic case. The working area is made in the form of a table. A steel sheet with a thickness of 2-3 mm is used as a material. On the border, conventionally dividing both zones, a pedestal is mounted, on which the shaft of the cleaver-cone is fixed. This part must not be attached directly to the motor shaft.
The taper shaft has its own bearing support. In order to compensate for jerks and create torque, it is recommended to install a flywheel on the shaft.
After assembling the entire structure, you can start connecting the electric motor. The most commonly used are asynchronous motors. Older units of this type have a separate winding for starting. To determine it on the motor, you need to use a tester to alternately measure the resistance on each winding. The required winding will have a higher resistance. She is directly involved in creating the primary torque in the right direction. If necessary, change the direction of rotation of the shaft, the connection points of the starting winding are reversed.
Modern electric motors are much easier to start. You can use a regular household machine to turn it on and off.
Concrete mixer from a washing machine
A concrete mixer is necessary on the farm, especially in private and country houses. However, concrete mixers are quite expensive, so one of the solutions to the problem would be to make a concrete mixer from improvised means. A washing machine is best suited, and not only the electric motor, but also the case itself.
The base must be reliable so that the container does not stagger during rotation. The duration of operation of the unit completely depends on this. An unstable base may cause the container to fall and damage other components. A metal structure is considered the most suitable. If desired, it can be equipped with wheels. All parts and parts are connected to each other using bolts or welding. To install the electric motor, you need to provide special shelves with holes for fasteners. The gearbox is also attached to the same shelf, the pulley of which must be in the same plane with the engine pulley. Otherwise, the motor will be overloaded.
Turning on and off a homemade concrete mixer is performed using a packet switch. In most cases, a capacitor is present in the wiring diagram. Thus, thinking about what homemade products can be made from a washing machine engine, any home craftsman will practically make a device that is most needed in a household.
Schematic diagram of the "Vyatka-Avtomat" washing machine
| E1..E6 | Noise filter contacts | MPS | Pump |
| D1C, D, D3L | Sunroof lock | R 1,2 | TEN (heater) |
| P 1,2,3 | Level sensor | MCML | Engine |
| TH1..TH3 | Temperature sensors at 40, 60, 90 degrees | MT | Command apparatus |
| SL1, SL2 | Indicators | Ez | Spark arrester |
| EV1..EV4 | Cold and hot water valves | C1 | Capacitor |
| a) "Vyatka-Avtomat12" | b) "Vyatka-Avtomat-14" | ||
| c) "Vyatka-Avtomat-16" | d) "Vyatka-Avtomat" with a hatch blocking device | ||
| e) "Vyatka-Avtomat" only from the cold. water | f) "Vyatka-Avtomat" with FPS filter |
The design of the washing machine "Vyatka-Avtomat"
| 1 - detergent dispenser | 2 - support | ||
| 3 - tank suspension spring | 4 - hose | ||
| 5 - solenoid valve | 6 - washing tank | ||
| 7 - pulley | 8 - filling hose | ||
| 9 - thermostat sensor | 10 - electric heater | ||
| 11 - electric motor | 12 - drain hose | ||
| 13 - a tube of the level sensor | 14 - shock absorber plate |
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| 15 - capacitor | 16 - shock absorber spring |
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| 17 - friction disc | 18 - electric pump |
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| 19 - filter | 20 - drainage tube |
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| 21 - level sensor | 22 - counterweight |
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| 23 - command apparatus | 24 - indicator lamp |
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| 25 - program switch | 26 - the handle of the commander |
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| 27 - the front wall of the case | 28 - machine body |
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| 29 - hatch cover | 30 - housing cover |
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| 31 - dispenser box | 32 - filling hose |
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| 33 - solenoid valve | |||
The machine operates on a cold and hot water supply network and is designed for washing, rinsing and wringing out products from all types of fabrics. It has front loading linen. The machine provides a choice of washing modes with a set of a specific program using low-foaming synthetic detergents. Programs are recruited with the control knob of the controller and special switches located on the front panel of the machine body. The machine is protected against overflow and is equipped with a hydraulic filter to retain foreign bodies.
The connection between the filter cover and the housing is hermetically sealed and can withstand a pressure of 9.4 kPa. The design of the machine ensures complete drainage of the liquid from the tank: the permissible residual fluid in the hydraulic system is not more than 500 ml.
Regulation of programs and temperature of detergent solutions during washing, rinsing and wringing out products is carried out automatically. Manually only load products and detergents, select the required program, turn off the machine and unload clean laundry.
The metal body of the machine 28 is made of sheet steel, coated with white paint. The body consists of stamped parts, riveted and welded together. From above, the body is closed by a metal cover 30, painted white and attached with self-tapping screws. Inside the body, a washing tub 6 is installed with a two-speed electric motor 11 of the washing tub drive mounted on it. In the upper part of the body there are: a block for connecting to the water supply network, consisting of two solenoid valves 5 and 33, connected by hoses 4 with a dispenser 1 of detergents, providing for the possibility of automatic introduction of detergents, bluing and starching agents into the machine; capacitor 15 for the electric motor; a liquid level sensor 21 connected to the lower part of the tank by a hose 13. On the upper part of the front wall 27 of the housing, a button switch 25 is installed, which serves to select an economical washing and spinning mode; to the right of the switch are the command apparatus 23 and the neon lamp 24, signaling the operation of the electric motor 11. The control unit is closed by a plastic panel, on which the handles 26 of the command apparatus and the switch 25 are brought out; here (on the left) there is a drawer 31 of the detergent dispenser and a panel with program inscriptions located under the handle of the dispenser drawer.
Washing tank 6 is made of carbon steel, followed by hot enameling. The upper part of the washing tub is suspended from the machine body on two coil springs 3. The springs are attached to the upper part of the body through supports 2. Metal springs are welded to the lower part of the washing tub on both sides: counterweights 22 made of concrete are attached to the washing tub. A tubular electric heater 10 and a temperature sensor 9 are built inside the washing tub. A perforated washing drum with three ribs is installed in the washing tub. The axis of the washing drum through the seals in the cast support attached to the rear wall of the washing tub is brought out of the latter. A pulley 7 is put on the axle, connected by a V-belt to a pulley on the motor shaft. In the front wall of the washing tank there is a loading opening connected to the loading door by means of a fixed rubber cuff of a special profile. In this part of the machine, an electric drain pump 18 and a removable filter 19 are installed, the cover of which is brought out to the lower part of the front panel of the housing. The machine is equipped with a removable water inlet hose 8 and a drain hose 12. The presence of a rectangular hole covered by a lid in the rear of the machine and the ability to remove the top cover provide convenient access to the structural elements and devices of the machine, which is of great importance during its repair.
The main advantage of the machine is full automation of washing modes, including pre and main wash, rinsing, special treatment and spinning of the laundry. With a fairly simple (without electronic elements) and reliable electrical circuit, the machine performs all operations without the help of a person. This is achieved by using a command device in this design, which contains a program of 36 cycles. The washing rhythm is set by the MT electric motor, which is mechanically connected to the drum of the command device (Fig. 1).
Rice. one Schematic diagram of a household washing machine "Vyatka-avtomat-12-01"
In order to better understand the principle of operation of the electrical circuit and to simplify the search for possible malfunctions, its description is provided. A description of the operation of the electrical circuit of the machine is given for the first program of the "Vyatka-automat-12-01" model.
To set the required program, turn the control knob clockwise, aligning the program number with the pointer marked on the front panel.
The machine is started by pulling the program setting knob towards itself until it clicks, at the same time contacts 13-T, 14-T of the command device are closed and the indicator lamp lights up. Sequential processing of the cycles begins.
The cyclogram in the form of a table can be viewed in Fig. 2, or from another source in Fig. 3, and its description is given below.
Rice. 2 Cyclogram Vyatka-automatic machine
Rice. 3 Cyclogram Vyatka-automatic machine
Cycle 1. Water is poured through the EV1 solenoid valve, to which voltage is applied through the contacts of the hatch microswitch 1P, contacts 1-3 of the P level relay and the 12-V contacts of the controller. When the lower water level in the tank is reached, the level switch P is triggered, opening contacts 1-3 and thereby removing power from the EV1 valve coil, the water supply to the tank stops. Contacts 1-2 at this moment are closed and through the circuit of contact 8-T, power is supplied to the MT electric motor of the commander. In this case, the supply voltage is supplied to the 4th terminal of the drum drive electric motor ML through the circuit 8-T, 4-T, 1-V and then through contacts 9-T, 3-T and the capacitor C1 to the 5th terminal. The drum starts rotating in an intensive mode (approximately 9 seconds - movement in one direction, 10 seconds - pause, 9 seconds - movement in the other direction). The reversal of the ML motor is carried out by switching the contact 1 of the controller when the MT electric motor is running. During this period, two additional water fillings are made through the EV1 valve. In this case, the voltage is supplied to the valve winding through contacts 2-V, 1E, 5-T, 12-V. The water in the tank rises to the upper level. With a low load of the drum with linen, a 1E switch is installed to limit the water in the washing tub; when the contacts of this switch are open, additional water filling is not performed. The cycle time is 2.5 minutes.
Cycle 2. At the initial moment of the cycle, the contacts of the controller 8-T, 5-T, 4-T open, and the contacts 7-B, 4-B close, while the power supply circuit of the electric heater R is closed through contacts 7-B, and the water heating begins. Opening the contact 8-T stops the voltage supply to the electric motors of the drives of the command device and the drum MT and ML. After the water in the tank warms up to + 40C, the TN-1 temperature sensor-relay is triggered, through its closed contacts voltage is supplied to the ML and MT electric motors. The commander and drum drives begin to work. The drum rotates in a soft rhythm (7 seconds - movement, 48 seconds - pause, 7 seconds - movement, 13 seconds - pause, then the sequence is repeated). The duration of the cycle, excluding the time required for heating the water, is 2.5 minutes.
Cycle 3. Contact 4-T closes, and within 5 minutes. the wash is carried out with an intensive rhythm, while the water heating continues.
Cycle 4. Water heating continues. Contact 4-B closes, and within 5 minutes. the drum rotates with a gentle wash cycle.
Cycle 5. The prewash ends and the water starts draining. This is done by closing terminal 6-T on the MPS pump motor power supply circuit. At the same time, contact 7-B opens, turning off the power of the pre-heater R. During the entire cycle, equal to 2.5 minutes, the drum rotates with a soft wash mode.
Cycle 6. The main wash starts from the sixth cycle. At the same time, through contacts 11-V and 12-T, voltage is applied to the coils of the solenoid valves EV3 and EV4, filling the tank with cold and hot water begins. When the water in the tank reaches the lower level, contacts 1-2 of relay P close, the water supply to the tank is stopped, the MT, ML electric motors are turned on. Within 2.5 minutes. the drum rotates with an intense rhythm.
Cycle 7. Contact 8-T opens, the electric motors of the drum drives and the command device are de-energized, and they stop. Through the closed contacts 7-V and 10-V, voltage is applied to the heater R, water heating begins and continues until the temperature rises to + 40C. In this case, the TN-1 sensor-relay is triggered and through its closed contacts voltage is supplied to the electric motors of the drum drives and the command device. The drum begins to rotate with a soft rhythm and continues for 5 minutes.
Cycle 8, 9 The drum continues to rotate with a soft rhythm for 10 minutes. Water heating continues.
Cycles 10, 11, 12. Contact 4-T closes, and the drum begins to rotate with an intense rhythm. The duration of three cycles is 15 minutes. Water heating will continue until the end of cycle 21; if the water temperature reaches + 90C earlier, then the contacts ТН-2 and ТН-3 will work and the heating will stop.
Cycle 13 The rotation of the drum, due to the closure of the 4-B contact, goes into a soft wash mode.
Cycles 14, 15, 16. Contact 4-B opens, 4-T closes, drum rotation continues in an intense rhythm for 15 minutes.
Cycles 17, 18, 19. The rotation of the drum switches to a gentle wash cycle, the cycle time is 15 minutes.
Cycles 20, 21. Continuation of the drum rotation with an intense rhythm for 10 minutes.
Cycle 22. Contacts 7-V and 10-V open, disconnecting the supply voltage of the heater R and thereby stopping the heating of the water. Through the closed contacts 2-B, 1E, 5-T and 11-B, the EV3 solenoid valve is activated, which provides two additional fills with cold water. The cycle time is 2.5 minutes.
Cycle 23. The operations listed during the 5th cycle are performed. The main wash has ended.
Cycle 24. Voltage is supplied to electric motors MT and ML through contacts 8-Т and 4-Т, reversing contact 1, contacts 9-Т, 3-Т. The drum rotates with an intense rhythm for 5 minutes. Water filling begins through the open EV3 valve, which is powered through closed contacts 1-3 of the P and 11-B level relays of the controller.
Cycle 25. Same as cycle 5 and 23. End of the first rinse.
Cycle 26. Water is injected through the open EV3 valve. After the P level switch is triggered, the electric motors of the drum drive and the command device begin to rotate. The drum rotates with an intense rhythm for 2.5 minutes. During this period of time, when contact 2-B is closed, an additional water fill occurs.
Cycle 27. Contact 6-T closes, the MPS pump turns on, the water is drained simultaneously with the rotation of the drum in an intensive rhythm. The cycle time is 2.5 minutes. End of the second rinse.
Cycle 28. During the transition from cycle 27 to cycle 28, the drum slowly rotates counterclockwise. At the beginning of the 28th cycle, the drum is turned on in the centrifuge mode, and the laundry is pre-wrung out. The voltage through contacts 1-3 of the level relay P, 5-V, 9-V, 3-V of the command device, capacitors C1 and C2 connected in parallel, is supplied to the MC-2 terminal of the electric motor. At the same time, voltage is supplied to the MPS pump motor through contacts 10-Т, 8-Т, 6-Т. The cycle time is 2.5 minutes.
Cycle 29. It is similar to the 26th cycle, but the washing rhythm is soft (contact 4-B is closed).
Cycle 30.- similar to 27
Cycle 31- similar 26
Cycle 32- similar to 5.
Cycle 33- similar to 26, but filling is done through the EV2 valve, since contact 11-Т closes. A means for special treatment of linen is introduced into the tank together with water.
Cycle 34- similar to 27.
Cycle 35- similar to 28, but the spin duration is increased to 5 minutes.
Cycle 36- contacts 13-T and 14-T of the controller open, the supply voltage is removed from the circuit. The program has been completed.
As noted earlier, the main element of the electrical circuit, its "brain center", is the command apparatus. This device consists of an electric drive, contact groups and a drum on which the program is applied. When the electric motor of the commander drive is turned on, its drum begins to rotate, closing (opening) at certain intervals one or another group of contacts, which in turn turns on (turns off) the machine unit, which is necessary at the moment to comply with the washing technology. The sequence of closing the contacts of the controller, which must be observed when determining the cause that caused the malfunction of the first and essentially the entire program, is described above.
To find the cause of the failure of the machine, it is necessary to analyze its operation. The first thing to figure out is at what cycle and what exactly does not work. Further, based on the description of the schematic diagram, it is necessary to determine which circuit (contact) currently includes the supply voltage of the idle unit. Then the element-by-element check of this circuit is started. It is most convenient to start with testing the unit itself, gradually narrowing the search circle to determine a faulty contact or circuit section.
Finding a circuit malfunction is much more difficult than fixing it. To do this, it is necessary either to replace the failed elements, or, if this is not possible, to repair them. Therefore, methods of replacing or repairing defective items are not described here. Below are the external signs of possible malfunctions and the circuits to be checked in accordance with its sequence. In this case, determining the serviceability of the contact or the unit with a probe, it is necessary at the time of verification to disconnect from one of its terminals all the wires going to the circuit. This is due to the fact that the circuit of the tested contact can be closed through other nodes of the circuit, which will lead to serious miscalculations in identifying an invalid element.
Table 1
| Fault type | Remedy |
|---|---|
| After typing a program and turning on, the machine does not work. | In this case, it is necessary to check the tightness of the closing of the hatch and the serviceability of the contact of the microswitch 1P. |
| When the machine is turned on, the indicator light is on - the tank is not filled with water. | Kink in the inlet hose - the mesh of the corresponding valve is clogged, the valve coil is faulty, there is no circuit in contacts 1-3 of the P or 12-V level switch of the controller. |
| The tank overflows with water. The drum motor does not start. | Defective level switch P. |
| After filling the tank with water, the drum motor does not rotate, the controller works. | It is necessary to check the circuit of contacts 4-T, 1-B and circuit 9-T, capacitor C1, 3-T. |
| The drum does not play with intense or soft rhythms. | Check contacts 4-B, T. |
| No drum reversal. | It is necessary to check contacts 1-B, T. |
| Additional filling of the tank with water is not performed, switch 1E is on. | The valve is powered via a 2-B, 1E, 5-T, 12-V circuit, which must be checked. |
| After 2.5 min. the machine stops and the further washing process is not resumed. | Electric heater R defective, no contact 7-B circuit. The temperature sensor-relay ТН1 is faulty. |
| The drum motor hums, the drum does not rotate. | In this case, the fault is sought in series with the winding power circuit, which ensures the operation of the electric motor in the spinning mode (contact 1-3 of the relay P, 5-B, 9-B, 3-B, contacts 1,2,3 of the relay K), and in the power circuits a winding that ensures the operation of the electric motor in the washing mode (contacts 1-2 of the relay P, contacts TN1, contacts 2-T, 4-T, 1-B, 1-T, 9-T, 3-T of the controller). |
| Poor spin of the laundry. After spinning, the laundry is very damp and water is leaking from it. | Kinked drain hose, pump filter clogged, drive belt loose. |
| Increased vibration during spinning. | The parts that secure the tank during transportation have not been dismantled. The stable position of the machine has not been adjusted. |
If the engine breaks down during operation (burned out), after replacing it, it is necessary to check the contacts of the controller, since as a result of overload, when working with a faulty engine, they may burn out.
All the best, write to © 2005
