Get rid of grass in the garden once and forever! Only folk remedies. How to get rid of bamboo thickets how to get rid of grass on an abandoned area

Not always, the plots go to the owners in excellent condition with dreamed beds and trimmed. Basically, the new owner simply gets a plot that overgrown with weeds and a bungyan with fruit trees and shrubs that are wild and began to bring at all those big and juicy fruits that brought before in a well-kept state. However, sometimes the plot is inherited from grandparents or de about him just forget for a while, for which he has time to influence weeds and thickets of herbs height into human growth. Of course, at such a plot, it is impossible to plant something or pre-calculating it. The first task that stands before the master of the site is to clear the territory and prepare it for the future season.

In general, smart and laundering gardeners have long come up with many ways that allow you to quickly and qualitatively master the virgin to use the Earth for your needs. After all, the land that rested several years and overgrown with weeds is excellent for any landing, because they accumulated all the necessary nutrient elements. It remains only to bring it to the proper condition and begin to fulfill its plan. But it sounds just only in words. In fact, this is a huge work, requiring many forces and time. But the result is worth it.

In general, all methods of mastering virginity can be divided into those that allow you to plant some plants in the first after season processing and on those that do not allow this.

Radical changes

This method is considered fairly simple according to the plan and time consuming. In the process of freeing the site from the thickets, it is required to remove the top layer of the land, referred to as the turden, in which the numerous roots intertwined. Cut parses are put in the reserved spot roots up and covered with a material that does not skip light. Periodically, this heap should be treated with urea so that in a few years it has become an excellent compost.

As for the earth itself, a new layer of soil is embrying on top of the purified land, which is ordered for several machines. The main thing is to know the origin of the soil and its quality. Otherwise, you risk losing money wasted and get a new layer of land rich in weeds and pathogenic microbes and even pests.

The more simple - the better

It is relatively lighter than the first way, since it is proposed to move the plot manually, without removing the roots of weeds. Another thing is that with this method you will not be able to sow on the site for a long time. Cabbage and potatoes will come to revenue. The cabbage is planted with a seedler, but it will bring a powerful shadow as far as it grows, like. This shadow will force the Earth and starts to suppress the growth of weeds. In addition, it is possible to periodically get the beds, which will also help destroy weeds.

For a larger effect between rows, mulching can be mulched using bevelled grass, manure or compost.

Useful waste paper

This is very original way It turns out to be effective if you carefully follow the instructions. To implement it in reality, you will need a reworked manure (you can chicken litter, compost or humus). This composition should be evenly distributed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe departed area and top cover the black and white newspaper in 5-7 layers thick. If you think it is complicated, the newspaper can be replaced with a dense cardboard. From above on a paper layer, compost is poured in a manure.

Plus this method is that in the newspapers you can do the wells in which any cultures grown through seedlings can be planted. This is perfect for those who do not want to wait long, I can only be satisfied with potatoes and cabbage. At the end of the season, in addition to excellent crop crops, you will also get a clean plot with enriched with vitamins and microelements of the Earth.


Black bedspread

The black film is a fairly well-known way to get rid of weeds. It can be covered by the entire area so that under the hot summer sun under it created a real hell for all living plants. No weed will be able to survive the absence of sunlight and this wage, so by the end of the season the film can be removed, and the earth is switched and feel the winner. Alas, but at the same time a method for any landings in the current season speech does not go.

Siderats come to revenue (video - planning of the site)

Many nice words are stated about the seeding plants, from which there are a lot of benefit. Including when mastering the site. Among all the cultures of this series, three, which are better than others will be cope with the task.

Seesime rye is the first of these three cultures, which will save the site from weeds. By itself, rye perfectly suppresses the growth of other plants, and the winter applied for no accident. Rye seeds planted in spring instead of autumn. Thus, the gardener is deceiving a plant that will not be able to bloom during the season and does not form a spoal.

It is possible to strengthen the effect if you cut the wheat several times per season, without damaging the growth of the plant. In the spring of the next season, Rye will go to the ground, and in her place you can plant potatoes or other cultures, depending on how much your plot is increased.

Sunflower - much easier work for the dachank, but at the same time no less ruthless towards weeds. At the beginning of May, his seeds are planted in the ground after Pacoplage as thick. When shoots seem from under the ground, other plants simply will not be chances to survive under such pressure.

At the beginning of the fall, the sunflowers can be mounted and seize parts of twenty centimeters, and then rinse into the soil. During the fall, these parts decompose and will hardly work out the land, having prepared it for landing in the next season of new cultures.

Bush beans are not only effectively, but also tasty. Only sow it should be thicker than it is usually prescribed for her. There is a distance of 5-10 cm between the plants, and between the rows 20-30 cm. During the first month, you still have to make a weeding between plants, and then the beans will force your leaves all the beds, and in this shadow it is unlikely that you can grow. When the season comes to an end, the tops of the beans will go to the compost, and the plot is worth passing with a roof to remove the most live weeds.

As you can see, the methods are very different in essence. You can choose any of them, depending on whether you are hurry to plant something on your site or will be ready to wait until time and sun will do their job. In any case, if you take it for this business and bring it to the end, you can then enjoy the charms of work on your site free of weeds.

Immediately after the pleasant sowing of seeds and seedlings, for the dacnis, it begins a difficult period to fight weeds, which grow better and faster than anyone planted in the territory of culture. Of course, if your summer cottage plot is small, then you will not feel any special problems, but how to be, in a row 20 or 40 acres of land? How to get rid of grass in the garden times and forever folk remedies?

Get rid of grass once and forever
As summer is quite quickly going through and not one dacket, I do not want to hold it for the invisibility of Byrian, there were effective ways and means that significantly facilitating life. What are these methods and how to use them?

How to get rid of grass in the garden - options

Many gardeners simply dream about to forget about such troubles as Burian. But to fully do it will not work. Why? Even if you regularly pull out all weeds with the root, the seeds of these pests are in large quantities in the soil, so they immediately germinate. Of course, it is better to destroy Byrian at an early stage, otherwise its root system will completely muffle the weak roots of vegetable crops. In addition, weeds feed on the juices of a fertile plant, damping its nutrients.

Today there are two famous method To combat harmful vegetation:

  1. Mechanical.
  2. Chemical

Mechanical The way implies tearing weeds with hands. But the guarantee that after this weeds will not get again with a new force - no. Especially actively burly grow after the rains, so this options are more suitable for tennesses who have a small territory. If you decide to use a mechanical method, then pay attention to the rules for processing the land plot: for this it is important to use a garden inventory and pull out plants with the root, not leaving it in the soil.

Concerning chemical Methods, it includes the use of herbicides. But this method can be dangerous for planted crops, so it is not recommended to use it.

How to deal with weeds by folk remedies

Before the herbicides came up with, people cope with the bunas of folk remedies, which were no less effective. We offer you several effective ways.

Alcohol. If you want to grow culture in the country area without the use of chemistry, then use the alcohol solution. To do this, stir alcohol in proportion to water 1:10 and pour them the future place landing. There will be no weeds in the coming season.

Soap, vinegar and salt. This composition has the action of herbicidal soap. To make a solution, mix in the same proportions of salt, rubbed on the grater of the household soap and vinegar. Give it. After that, they can spray Byriana.

Many owners of country sites are trying to replace purchased herbicides "folk" means. Acetic acid is usually used as the simplest and safe. To spray the beds, its 5 percent solution is most often used.
For the processing of the yard You can use a more effective "folk" remedy for weeds - vinegar with salt. Prepare such herbicide as follows:
3.8 l vinegar is poured into the bucket of 9%;
There is a half package of salt;
A little liquid soap is added;
Everything is thoroughly mixed.

A remedy for weeds with vinegar just as chemicals are used. The spraying should be maximally accurately. To allow drops from the pulverizer to fall into cultivated plants cannot be. Best time For processing - Early morning.
Usually, white vinegar is used to destroy weeds. You can also take apple. Dachnips, who decided to use this "folk" herbicide, should be aware that in large quantities it is able to flush nutrients from the ground.

Vinegar and Sol.. Such a combination is also killed by weeds, destroying them forever. To prepare this solution, it is necessary to mix 5 liters of vinegar and a glass of salt. All this thoroughly mix and process weeds. Since this is a rather dangerous means, make sure that it does not fall into healthy plants.

Soda. This product acts as a natural alkali, so it will not harm the soil, but will destroy weeds. To take advantage of soda, you need to pour the weed root and wait for the result that you can't wait a long time.

Sawdust. This method is suitable for those who have a bright bed and they are clearly designated. In the fall you need to sprinkle sawdust to the edge of the garden and switch. With the arrival of spring again, fall asleep edges of the garden with sawdust and leave so much. The root system of the weed will not be able to break through the sawdust, so it will die.

Today, you can acquire gentle chemicals, which, with proper use, will not harm your cultures. Now you know how to get rid of grass in the garden once and forever folk remedies. We hope that our advice will help you grow in our summer cottage rich harvest your favorite vegetable crops.

Weed Guide: Photo, Types, Names, Measures

To save your harvest from the "invasion" of weeds, you need to understand what kind of plants and how to deal with them. We made a visual table with photos, descriptions and most effective measures to combat common weeds.

Not all weed herbs are equally harmful. Part of the weeds can be used on food cattle and bird, some of them are medicinal plants. But there is among the "weed" family and poisonous specimens. Our table will help you indexed in the types of weeds and competently choose the measures to combat "illegal" on your site.

Measures of struggle:

  • treatment with natural drone after the appearance of weed germs, as well as herbicides (round, lintur);
  • weeding
A type Height (Length) Where it grows Features
Grassy perennial 10 cm On shady lawns, lawns
  • In large doses, the plant is toxic;
  • sometimes used B. folk medicine with asthma, pneumonia, diseases of the stomach and liver;
  • used to aromatize kvass, alcoholic and toning drinks

Measures of struggle:

  • mulching;
  • multiple re-cut;
  • pumping soil in autumn and spring;
  • treatment of shooters with herbicides based on immazapira, glyphosate and ammonium gluphosinate
A type Height (Length) Where it grows Features
Curly perennial Up to 1.8 meters At sunny sites
  • Has medicinal properties, widely used in folk medicine (most often as a laxative, urine and choleretic means);
  • root offspring germinate at a distance of 9 m from the maternal plenty

Measures of struggle:

  • early soil processing in spring (seeds will germinate, and the plants will easily remove);
  • weeding to the formation of seeds, preferably at the beginning of blooming;
  • mulching beds and rolling circles;
  • singing a section of winter rye, which displaces Galenzog
A type Height (Length) Where it grows Features
Grassy perennial 10-80 cm On well-lit vegetable beds
  • Come from Mexico, artificially listed in Eurasia;
  • one plant produces up to 300,000 seeds

Measures of struggle:

  • mulching beds and rolling circles;
  • herbicide treatment immediately after the cultivation of the soil before sowing (Gezagard, Amiben, Camboon) and after the appearance of shoots - the herbicides of Betanal expert, Gezagard, Dianat, Camboon;
  • weeding
A type Height (Length) Where it grows Features
Herbaceous annual Up to 1 meters Grows on wet soils
  • Good madoneos;
  • used in folk medicine as a hemostatic, laxative

Measures of struggle:

  • mulching beds and rolling circles;
  • treatment of trustees herbicides during spring cultivation (glyphos, roundup, tornado);
  • plant treatment with a 30% potassium salt solution;
  • weeding (weed stalks necessarily endure outside the site);
  • multiple perplex of land
A type Height (Length) Where it grows Features
Grassy perennial Up to 2 meters In areas with fertile soil
  • Used in folk medicine for the treatment of diseases of the joints, radiculitis, as well as as a hemostatic, multivitamine;
  • young leaves and shoots edible

Measures of struggle:

  • mulching beds and rolling circles;
  • processing by trustees herbicides with spring soil resistance and post-harvest herbicides (Esterone, Chistalan) on early stages weed growth;
  • weeding in the flowering phase before seed appearance
A type Height (Length) Where it grows Features
Herbaceous annual Up to 30 cm On sandy, stony soils
  • Seeds have medicinal properties and are used in the gastrointestinal disorders, as a diuretic;
  • leaves and shoots poisonous

Measures of struggle:

  • mulching beds and flower;
  • weeding (to ripening seeds);
  • processing with post-harvest herbicides in the phase of roasting leaves (Agritox, Agrokin, Gerbitox, metapane)
A type Height (Length) Where it grows Features
Grassy perennial Up to 30 cm Lawns and lawns in the sun or in half
  • The leaves have medicinal properties, edible, contain vitamins in 2 and C, carotene, calcium, potassium, phosphorus, choline, manganese, iron

Measures of struggle:

  • mulching beds and rolling circles;
  • processing of post-harvest herbicides in the early stages of weed growth (Lontrell, Lontrel-300, ballet CE);
  • weeding
A type Height (Length) Where it grows Features
Grassy perennial Up to 20 cm On moisturized, dense soils
  • Possessed antiseptic properties;
  • used in folk medicine in the treatment of diseases respiratory tract, gastritis, to improve digestion;
  • young leaves are eaten;
  • one plant forms up to 15,000 seeds

Measures of struggle:

  • mulching beds and rolling circles;
  • treatment with herbicides before sowing seeds and disembarking seedlings or in the early stages of the development of weeds (Calanis, Amiben, Cambinal);
  • weeding
A type Height (Length) Where it grows Features

Herbaceous annual
(Sometimes - a two-seat)

10-80 cm On any type of soil
  • Feed plant;
  • used in folk medicine in the treatment of hypertension, gastrointestinal diseases, liver, kidney, bladder, rheumatism;
  • it tolerates pulling out well

Measures of struggle:

  • mulching beds and rolling circles;
  • treatment with herbicides before the appearance of germs and in the early stages of weed development (Dianat, DiPhenamide, Amiben);
  • weeding
A type Height (Length) Where it grows Features

Herbaceous annual

Up to 130 cm On any type of soil, including arid
  • One plant gives up to 500,000 seeds;
  • has bactericidal, anti-inflammatory, hemostatic properties;
  • leaves edible;
  • seeds can be puffed poultry

The site that was inherited, presented or purchased by the secret team, can not always be a paradise corner with smooth lawns and exotic, well-kept plants.

Weeds on the site can even cultivated plants, resulting from excessive self-seams.

As a rule, a long-standing area overgrown with trees, bushes and weeds.

The fence may disassemble on firewood, and the plot of garbage to the site itself. Not uncommon when rainwater streams break through whole trenches in the ground. Such a plot will definitely have to be developed and ennoble.

Planning work

The first impression of acquaintance with the new country acquisition can be very negative and even oppressive, but you do not need to fall into despair. There is no impossible task. You need to start with planning first the scheme of the site itself, and then move to the work plan and the calculation of the needs of materials and equipment. Work can be carried out independently, for this you need to have a lot of free time, reliable tool and good healthwhich will further strengthen from work in the fresh air. It is necessary to take into account that to enjoy the overgrown area alone, months may be required, and even years. Attracting a brigade with severe technique will save a lot of time, but it will be very expensive and will not give proper quality of work. The site in this case will be very smashed, and the soil is contaminated with the remnants of trees and bushes. The third is the most optimal option - to independently develop a plot with periodic involvement of relatives and acquaintances or hired workers who are easy to find on ads.

After drawing up the master plan to bring the site into a decent form, it is necessary to clarify the exact limits of its territory. This is necessary not only for mistakenly not to spend time and effort to process someone else's territory, which will later have to give, but also to return it, if it has been taken to the use of neighbors for any reason. The operation to accurately determine the boundaries of the site for a small fee will be carried out by geodesists. Along the way, you can explore the composition of the soil on the site to know what additives and in what quantity it will be required subsequent. Immediately better not to put. First, it will interfere with the processing of the soil. Secondly, it makes it difficult to move the movement of transport, which will constantly deliver any materials or take off the construction trash.

Back to the category

Cleaning a plot from trees

After establishing the exact limits of its possessions, you need to decide on trees. It is not necessary to cut down all the vegetation on the root and turn the site into a naked prairie. Some trees can serve as a good decoration of the terrain and ennoble the appearance of the site. If the site is planned to build a gazebo or mantal installation, then the shadow from the tree growing next to them will be a good additional protection from the sun. When the fate of trees will be solved, you can proceed to the roll. If the trees are thin can simply cut into the ax.

If thick, high trees are sentenced to eliminate, here you need to seek help to professionals. The roll of such trees is not only difficult, but also a dangerous thing. Stumps need to leave high, up to 1 meter, it will subsequently facilitate their anteriorization. The wood remaining after the roll is better not to throw away, but cut into comfortable parts and gently fold. Over time, firewood can be useful for a fire or mangala. The branches, cleaning from the leaves, can be used for artistic weaving, strengthening or after drying, just burn, while destroying some of the weeds and fertilizes the ashes of the soil.

Back to the category

Getting rid of pney

Pni, remaining after cutting down trees, can hardly be called dacha or at home. At first, they constantly let young branches that must be sodged. When the stump ceases to give new sprouts, the mass of malicious organisms will settle: mold, mushrooms, insects - all this will be distributed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe site. Therefore, it will be better to get rid of the stumps at once, at the same time freeing the useful area for future plantations. If you leave this work for later, then when you can cause serious damage to the landscape already created: damage tracks, flowers, mock flowers and grass. You can get rid of stumps in several ways.

Back to the category

Pencing the tractor

This is the fastest and easy way to get rid of the stumps. It is enough to free the passage to the stumps, slightly go to them and then everything will do the technique. The remaining pit after removing the stump can be used to plant a new tree, shrub or as a mini-pitual for any element of construction. If the pit does not have applications, then it can be simply filled. The disadvantages of this method should include its high cost and danger. The use of the tractor is economically justified if it is necessary to get rid of a large number of stumps.

Back to the category

Removal of stumps Crusher

The method that practically does not damage the surrounding landscape. It is good if a valuable shrub is growing next to the foref. For such a job, you do not need to clear the entrance to the object and use heavy equipment. The only disadvantage of using the crusher is a small processing depth, just up to 30 cm. On the spot that will remain after removing the stump, you can not put a tree or without any problems to lay ribbon foundationSince part of the roots will remain in the ground.

Back to the category

Application of chemicals to remove stumps

A very simple and cheapest way that does not require heavy machinery, no help of specialists. Independent electrodes and accurate dosage relative to harmless chemicals. The essence of the method is that the mixture is drilled as deep holes in which the wet selection is laid. After that, the stump is isolated to avoid entering the water and washing the nitrate.

In such a state, he must be about a year so that the Selith is completely impregnated with all the wood, including the roots. Next, the stump is set up and completely burns out, including underground, root part. The chemical method is good because it does not require any effort, but takes a lot of time. After combustion, the stumps must pass at least a year before the site where it was located, it will become suitable for having grass or planting berry shrubs. In addition, you need to be neat so as not to get a chemical burn eye and respiratory organs, and also do not drop a peatman (if the site is on it).

Back to the category

Destruction of pitsy mushrooms

Back to the category

Manually removal

The cheapest and safe for ambient Method of pnenet's cortex. Here, as a rule, special equipment and equipment are required. To begin with, the stump is cold, and its roots, as far as possible, is exempt from the ground. After that, the roots are separated by an ax and saw from the stump. Next, with the help of physical strength, the crossing of the stump is extracted from the ground.

The roots remaining in the ground can be pulled out manually, with a winch or destroy the above-mentioned chemical method. It should be noted that it will not be possible to cope with such work alone, it is necessary to think about the involvement of a group of physically strong assistants. In addition, manually stumps can not be crowned in winter and into slush, as frozen land and dirt will make this work practically impracticable.

Back to the category

Removal of shrubs

Get rid of unnecessary bushes is very easy. To do this, you will need an ordinary garden secator or hacksaw and a bayonetooth shovel. If the bush is very thick and lush, then you first need to cut the branches to get to its main trunks. Then one person begins to pull the bush on himself under the tilt to the ground, and the second at that time heats the roots of the bush, freeing it out of the ground. As a rule, this method is enough to be guaranteed to get rid of bushes. If you just cut a bush under the root, it is very soon he will give fresh shoots and the operation will have to repeat.

Back to the category

Stone leveling

After removing the trees and stumps from the site, it is necessary to carry out its layout. The planning is necessary in order to get rid of the holes in which water and unnecessary bugs will be gathered, which will spoil the appearance. No need to seek an ideally smooth surface. Most expedient to make the surface slightly sublime in the middle of the site with a uniform bias to the edges for the gathering of rainwater. At the edges, the site must be equipped with a drainage ditch to collect extra moisture from the soil. The edges of the ditches must be strengthened so that they do not sleep under the action of water flow, otherwise every rain will be carried away from the ground from the site, and the ditch will turn into a wide stream with time. The walls of the ditches can be seen by the branches remaining after the trees, slate singers, boards, professional flooring or metal tiles, which always remain after construction. Large boulders, if such turned out to be left on the site, using them later as a base for the garden of stones.

Back to the category

Getting rid of weeds

After cleaning and comes the time to fight weeds, otherwise not to ensure that beautiful flowers and bright green grass grew on it. Weeds are one of the most terrible and permanent enemies for cottage plot. They take the nutrients, moisture from the soil, poison it, cover other plants from the sun. Overgrown with weeds a plot will not bring great joy when traveling to country plot. Weed can be struggling in several ways alternately, as well as combining and combining them. It is necessary to consider that weeds cannot be destroyed in one app. Each type of weed has its own lifetime: some can be stored in the form of seeds in the land, expecting favorable circumstances. In addition, weeds constantly fall into a plot together with fertilizers are entered by the wind, clothes and shoes. If you constantly do not fight weeds, then the site, as it were, carefully, he did not find it, very soon again touches.

Back to the category

Preparatory work

To begin with, you need a scythe or trimmer to twider all the grass, which is on the site and, if there are no neighbors and the site is surrounded by untreated land, then in a pair of meters around it, since the rainy vegetation, its surrounding, will give a huge seed influx for cleaned land. Next you need to collect from the ground. Garbage: old leaves, grass, branches, stones and the like. Throw garbage not necessarily. It can be folded in the far corner of the site and use for the manufacture of compost.

If you got a plot with an old bitter cherry garden, first of all it will be necessary to come up with how to get rid of the cherry fritters. It's not so easy to cope with her, and you may have to spend a lot of strength and nerves to be divided into numerous shoots, then the case germinating next to the main tree.

Is it possible to prevent the appearance of the fuses of the cherry?

A legitarious gardener may arise a natural question: is it necessary to look for ways how to destroy the cherry's pig? Isn't it easier to leave her alone - let the new cherry trees grow, which will bring even more fruit!

Care for overgrown with the cherry throat is much more complicated

The main harm is that Cherry's pigproof takes the nutrients from the soil for its growth, because of which the crop on the main tree decreases significantly, and even disappears. At the instant fruction of new cherry bushes, do not impose great hopes, since the grafted cherries give a wild greed, which does not give fruits. In addition, it is much more complicated for the overgrown pigs of the cherry.

Video about how to save the old tree root row

First of all, closely feel the choice of seedlings: putting a cherry or bush-type cherry area, you will not subsequently break your head like fighting the cherry's pig. Another thing is to plant a piglery cherry, which years later, by virtue of its nature, begins to form a pig, especially for the core plants.

When buying a pore-type cherry, keep in mind:

  • correspondence seedlings (Apukhtin, Vladimirskaya, Krasnoparaskka, Shubinka) although they form a lot of row, but their offspring retain all the properties of the variety and are quite suitable for replacing the old cherry;
  • varietary cherries (Rastorguevskaya, Malinovka, Youth, Memory of Yenikeyev) on clone connotations can more or lesser degrees to form a pig-winning pig, which will need to be regularly deleted;
  • the varietal cherries on seed ingredients (from the seedlings of a hubble and Vladimir cherry) root piglets do not give.


Carefully treat the choice of seedlings: putting a cherry or bush-type cherry on the plot, you will not subsequently break your head like fighting the cherry booster

Be sure to check with the seller, Cherry Correspondence Saplings or Village? And, if you do not want to reflect on the problem in a few years, how to get rid of cherry piglets, give preference to seedlings on seeds.

But what to do with old cherries, who were just started to give a pig? It is noted that the amount of frightened the same plants may increase with surface watering, when the branches are frozen, disease damage, and as a result of mechanical damage to the root system and the crown of the tree. To reduce the formation of the cherry frittle, do not forget about the sanitary trimming of damaged branches, do not allow the propagation of pests and diseases. Instead of loosening the land under the cherry, use mulching. Watering the plant is better rare, but abundantly.

One of the reasons can be a banal heat, from which the soil under the tree cracks, and as a result of damage to the roots, young piglets begin to grow. In this case, the shelter of the Earth under the cherry hay or straw will help.

Experienced gardeners, how to remove cherry pig

The question is how to remove the cherry's pig from its site, for many gardeners from year to year remains relevant. After all, it is impossible to completely get rid of germinating new shoots - and it is necessary, either every year to mess around with the cutting of the frightened, or experiment with new ways to remove threshing shoots at your own peril and risk.

Fully get rid of germinating new shoots it is impossible

The most popular and effective method, how to destroy the cherry piglets at least for a while, is considered to be a regular fight against the emerging siblings of cherry with the help of an ax and shovels. And you need to do this work correctly:

  • the shoots are removed immediately as they appear, without leaving them the ability to gain strength;
  • cutting by the secret part of the escape is not enough - in the ground, hemps with kidneys will remain in the land, of which they will grow even more powerful offspring;
  • in early spring or late autumn, the threshing shoots fade to the place where they depart from the horizontal root of cherries, and cut off with an ax, without leaving hemp;
  • the location of the log is lubricated to the Garden Vary, so that nothing has grown anything else;
  • dropsy pits fall asleep the earth again.

With great care, it should be used to destroy herbicides, because it is possible to accidentally harm the maternal tree

Additionally, it is recommended to remove the berries from under the cherries so that wild bushes do not grown out of their bones. It is possible to limit the germination of threshing shoots with the help of slate sheets or dense cardboard, hacking them under the cherries half a meter to the ground. Slowly slows the development of the cherry strokes is also a landing near the shady tree (linden, maple, chestnut).

With great care, it should be used to destroy herbicides, because it is possible to accidentally harm the maternal tree. In addition, it is not always possible to achieve the desired effect - there is a possibility that there are two new ones on the site of one killed poison.

Video about how to deal with an unwanted pig

The cardinal method of destroying the cherries (together with the old wood) can be called deep steaming of the site by an excavator or tractor. But this option is not suitable for each site, and you won't call it cheap.

Unfortunately, it's not one hundred percent efficient wayhow to remove the cherry's pig time and forever. Therefore, the choice remains for you - to keep a permanent fight against the rustling offspring or completely get rid of the old cherry together with all the piglets and plant new varieties that do not give threshold shoots.