A homemade stove for heating a tent can be used so that tourists can spend the night warm and even in cases where you need to heat a steam room in camping conditions. The author of this model uses it mainly in the off-season at temperatures at not very low temperatures - about minus 5 degrees and only occasionally tested it in frosty conditions when going skiing.

But such a stove (photo below) can be purchased at this Chinese store.

Necessary elements of the stove and materials:
- Pipe made of steel 0.2 mm thick, weight 360 grams. Made from 4 foam cans.
- Chimney made of steel 0.2 mm thick (cover on the pipe to protect against snow or rain on the street), weight 20 grams. It is made from one can of foam, weight 20 grams; an electrode with a diameter of 3 mm was also used.
– Housing made of galvanized steel sheet 0.4 mm thick, weight 1 kg; steel blind rivets 3.2x6 mm.
– Furnace legs made of galvanized steel rods for suspended ceilings, length 1 m, diameter 4 mm, weight 160 grams.
– The passage through the roof of the tent is made of 0.2 mm thick tinned steel, made from the bottom of a can, weight 120 grams.
– Cover made of terpauling (reinforced polyethylene, plus a sling – nylon thread, weight 160 grams.

In general, the weight of the entire tourist stove for the tent was 1.86 kg. Folded size 320x240x150 mm. The stove can be conveniently placed in a lightweight 80 liter backpack.

About the design and features of the stove for the forest

There is an afterburner in the stove, pay attention to the row of rivets on top, this is the riveted partition of the chamber (at a distance of 38 mm from the top, close to the front wall and 26 mm from the back wall). The pipe is at the end of the chamber. The gases go to the back wall, rise into the chamber, then go to the front wall and into the pipe. All passages with a section not less than the section of the pipe. Thanks to the afterburner, the fuel is used more efficiently and sparks do not fly from the pipe. There is no column.

Before using the stove in a tent, you must first heat it outside to completely get rid of the zinc coating. If after that zinc remains in separate places, burn it with a gas burner.
The developer of this tourist mini-stove has been successfully using it since 2009 in tents specially made for the stove, the total operating time by 2012 was about 200 hours. The photo shows a drawing of a tourist oven.

If you are going to spend winter nights in a tent on a hike, then the author does not advise relying only on this stove. It is better to have a sleeping bag with an appropriate comfort temperature. A stove like this one can only dry you and your belongings and create a comfortable temperature in the tent for a short time.

Nevertheless, even with a good sleeping bag, the stove still does not hurt. It makes it much easier in cold weather.
Check out more (up to 40 degrees), with which you can sleep without even hiding under a blanket.
Why is the top of this stove not flat, because it would be possible to cook food on the stove? According to the author of the furnace, the thin flat steel sheet from which the furnace is made deforms somewhat after the first heating. The plane of contact with the bottom of the dish is reduced. To maintain the boiling point of water, you have to overheat the stove, which is dangerous in a small tent. because from its radiation the surrounding things overheat. And it becomes uncomfortable for people in a small tent to be near the stove.

Special tents for the camp stove

For this stove, two tents were made - houses. Three-slope 1.5x2.6 meters, and gable 1.3x2.0 meters. Both tents have high sides 0.6 m and a height of 1.4 m. The bottom of the gable tent comes unfastened, it is used without a bottom with a stove as a sauna and for winter ski picnics. A gable with a bottom is used to store things and products.
This development can be used as a camp stove for a bath, but only at positive temperatures, better in summer. For a bath, the stove was heated at an outdoor temperature of up to plus 4 degrees.

Most of us enjoy outdoor activities. We all love fresh air, camping under the stars and ice fishing. At the same time, we try to do it all year round. In summer, of course, it is dry and warm in the tent, but in the off-season and in winter it is not very comfortable at night, so ovens are needed for heating and cooking.

Today we will talk about do-it-yourself tent stoves. Their great multitude from simple to complex. Such an oven should be lightweight, economical, meet fire safety requirements, be easy to install and operate, have a long burning function, be reliable. This is the minimum requirement for . There are several options for installing a stove in a tent: in the middle on a special bracket, installation on legs closer to the wall of the tent, but if the snow is deep, it could be flooding.

Appearance does not interest us at all, the main thing is that it provides us with warmth. Today we will try to tell you how to do it. For a mini oven you will need: two cans of canned food with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 6 cm (a jar must be chosen with a larger diameter, than a mug by 10 mm.); some tin, bolts and washers, parts from an old antenna, metal mug.

Manufacturing: first option

It is necessary to process the upper edges of the can, then cut a 30 cm circle. with three petals made of tin and bend them at right angles. It is necessary to drill 3 holes in the jar with a diameter of 4 mm. in proportion to the arrangement of the petals. We put the circle on the bottom of the can, so that the petals enter the drilled holes, then they are folded over and dry fuel is placed. From the top edge you need retreat 20 mm. and drill 3 holes 5 mm in diameter. at an angle 120 degrees relative to each other. We put washers into the drilled holes and insert M4 bolts 4 cm long, fasten them with nuts.

Read also: Gas-generating furnace: device and design

We put a metal mug on the bolts. For the legs, we need parts from the antenna. We need three legs and for them we are in the bank drill 3 holes at an angle of 120 degrees. For foot tips using insulating material. Most importantly: the legs should not be larger than the diameter of the can, since the design in this case it will be unstable.. The lid can be made from another jar. You need to cut it, cutting the side on both sides, and slightly bend. The handle can be made from the power supply terminal by fixing it in the center with a nut. The cover is needed to protect the entire structure from debris and economical fuel consumption. And, last but not least, we drill at the bottom of the stove a pair of holes with a diameter of 5 mm.

The do-it-yourself mini-oven considered is one of the options for a furnace that you can make yourself. Little tips for use: for a quick ignition, drip a couple of drops of kerosene; if you need to not only heat food, but also cook, then make cuts with a dotted line on the upper edge of the stove, this will increase functionality.

Production: second option (wood-burning stove)

This option is suitable for people who have a vehicle. It can heat a large tent and economically consumes combustion elements (sticks and logs). All we need to make it is a piece of steel pipe with a diameter 15 cm and 60 cm long., dimensions are approximate. The pipe must be strictly vertical, as it is the basis of the entire furnace. At the bottom of the pipe cut out a rectangular hole about 30 cm high., width - a quarter of the circumference. You need to cut the pipe with a thin tool so that the cutting width is minimal.

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You may be surprised, but the vigorous Russian winter, in terms of the number and duration of city dwellers' outings, successfully competes with the best days of summer and fishing and mushroom autumn. The beauty of snow-covered landscapes is unique, winter fishing is peculiarly romantic, and after a ski trip you feel especially invigorated and healthy. However, for winter tourists and fishermen, a heater or stove for a tent is vital; they will also come in handy in the summer, if it suddenly gets colder or bad weather catches up. This article is written about how, how and in what cases it is correct and safe to heat the tent.

The most important

Camping cooking and heating appliances are not always compatible in one device. Food on a hike is prepared, as a rule, outside or in the "hallway" of the tent, under an awning. The heating camp stove operates in a cramped room, where, if it is tightly clogged, there may not be enough air just for normal breathing. Cases of burning in tents are not very frequent, but they occur steadily. That's why a heating camping stove should be extremely economical even in places rich in fuel- the less oxygen it takes to burn it, the less likely it is to form carbon monoxide. The choice of the type of fuel is also important: it is best if, with a lack of oxygen, it simply goes out without releasing carbon monoxide (see below).

Another significant point is all connected with the same circumstances: a small volume, large heat losses of the room and a probable lack of oxygen in the air in it, as a result of which the heating of a tent according to heat engineering is very different from the heating of buildings and structures. Critical in this regard are 1-4 local tents: in 2-4 local tents, less than 1 cubic meter may fall per person. m. In 1-seater and large group tents, one inhabitant most often has more than 2 cubic meters. m, but in a 1-person tent, the ratio of the outer surface area to the inner volume is large.

In any case, it is impossible to close hermetically in a tent: in the morning, from their own exhaled carbon dioxide, people will wake up broken, exhausted and little able to continue moving. However, molecular-kinetic (with warm air flows) heating of a small room is inefficient if there are the slightest cracks in it; Simply, the heat is immediately blown out. Therefore, a heater for a tent for 1-4 inhabitants should act mainly with thermal (infrared, IR) radiation, and soft, long-wave radiation; in physical terminology - far infrared (which is closer to millimeter radio waves). Near hard IR (with a spectrum maximum closer in visible light) at low outside temperatures and under conditions of high heat loss in the room will burn the skin, cause a fire, but will not really warm. For large tents for 6-20 people, this requirement is softened: they have a ratio of the heat-losing surface to the volume of the room several times less, and each sleeper emits approx. 60 watts of heat, so heating a large tent can be almost entirely molecular kinetic.

Note as a consequence: a camping bath-tent can be arranged for an hour and a half even at minus 40, but those who want to fall apart in a tent before lights out in shorts and a T-shirt will have to be disappointed - IR heating does not allow this. In general, if you want home comfort in nature, stay at home and watch movies about strong guys surviving in impossible conditions. Or order a non-volatile eco-house in the forest - only 2-3 million USD for a 2-room 26 sq. m residential.

A special case is the heating of a fishing tent in winter. The fact that the angler sits crouched is half the battle. It is also necessary that the holes do not freeze. But then the bottom and / or tent mounts can grab onto the ice so that you can’t pull it off. Here soft IR comes to the rescue again: its flow from the flashlight heater (see below) is directed obliquely down to the holes, and the remnants reflected from the ice allow the fisherman not to freeze.

And a very emergency, emergency case - how to heat a tent in an emergency. For example, the time is golden autumn. It's warm, we go in sneakers, shorts and a short sleeve, otherwise we'll get tired with the load and run out of steam. Suddenly - clouds, the temperature sharply to zero, it began to snow; in the mountains this is possible even in the height of summer. While they took out and pulled on warm, someone had signs of a cold and frostbite. You can’t go further like this, you need to set up camp and be treated or call rescuers. While the tent was set up, the victims became worse and new ones appeared. In such circumstances, of particular importance is the ability to build a heater from improvised materials, the ease and speed of its start-up and the rate of heat release.

Methods and features

Let's like, as they say, grandmothers in advance. Heating a tent in winter or during a sharp cold snap without the danger of burning out in it, a trace is possible. ways, as their availability and launch speed decrease:

• Heat saving.
• Catalytic chemical heaters.
• Using a wigwam, chum or yaranga type tent.
• The use of heat accumulators from improvised means.
• Bonfire and pipe.
• 2-circuit oil heater, see below.

Further, a camp heater can be located in a tent and consume oxygen from the air in it. The heat dissipation of such devices, as a rule, is high, the time for starting and warming up the tent to an acceptable temperature does not exceed 5-10 minutes, so we will sort by increasing the likelihood of burning or poisoning with fuel vapors:

1. A winter tent with a standard stove - if used correctly, should belong to the previous. list.
2. She, with a homemade camping stove.
3. Liquid fuel portable catalytic heater - if there is a lack of oxygen, the catalysis is extinguished, oxygen consumption stops, the fuel tank cools down, fuel evaporation stops.
4. The same, on gas - it works the same, but in inexpensive models, gas continues to flow from the cylinder. To hike in the off-season, you need cylinders with summer and winter gas: summer gas does not stimulate catalysis in winter; dangerous in winter in summer.
5. Homemade alcohol burner - ethyl alcohol goes out with a lack of oxygen, without having time to release any significant amount of carbon monoxide.
6. Candle heater - paraffin candles go out from a lack of oxygen when carbon monoxide has already begun its action. True, if they are not lit again, but breathed on the street, by morning the symptoms of poisoning in a strong, hardy person disappear.
7. - very economical, can be quickly made from improvised materials, but consumes a lot of oxygen. On a hike, a wood chipper can be safely launched in sufficiently ventilated shelters: a wigwam tent, a hut, under a canopy / canopy on a fallen tree, in a grotto / cave.

On a winter hike in remote places, a fire in a tent can be more dangerous than intoxication: If you lose your asylum, you can lose your life. Heaters that do not consume oxygen from the tent, subject to basic precautions, are fireproof. "Oxygen" according to the degree of increase in fire danger, they are distributed in a different way:

1. Alcohol burner;
2. Homemade tent stove;
3. Candles;
4. Regular tent stove;
5. wood chip stove;
6. liquid fuel catalytic;
7. catalytic gas.

As you can see, already the preliminary choice of a heater for a tent comes up against contradictory conditions.

To find the optimum, in addition to your own experience and a thorough study of the sources of adequate information, you also need to take into account the conditions of the campaign:

• 1-2 days at the weekend to the place by car, which remains there until departure;
• Winter fishing;
• Hike with overnight stays solo or in a group of up to 4 people - everyone carries a full luggage for themselves. Including tent, as it is easier to keep a plus and an atmosphere acceptable for breathing in a single or double tent for the night than in a 4-person tent;
• The same, but in a large group - one carries a tent, the other a stove, and their luggage is distributed among the rest;
• Star Trek.

In the first case, the volume and weight of luggage do not matter much, but safety is important, because. children and green beginners will ask for it. The best choice is a catalytic kerosene heater; in extreme cases (the car is frozen, it won’t start) - 1-2 home-made wood chips, a supply of alcohol, an alcohol burner and a kit for a candle heater for general use, see below.

For fishing, a portable gas-powered catalytic heater is most suitable. If we get to the place by car, then it is better to throw another candle heater for hands into the trunk (see below); for extremes - a heat-saving awning, a supply of alcohol and a home-made alcohol burner. The same set, plus a wood chip for each, is suitable for extreme solo and small groups.

Note: instead of an expensive and gas-consuming burner, an experienced winter fisherman can use a tent fishing stove based on wood chips, which can be made at home with their improvised materials in just a few minutes. However, then you need to know exactly the features of your tent, fishing in your favorite places and make a stove, taking them into account. For example, about the stove for the popular Sable fishing tent, see the video below.

Video: homemade tent stove in 6 minutes

A large group spends the night, as a rule, in one tent: there are more than 2 cubic meters of air per capita, and the surface that loses heat is less on it than in a single one. To individual emergency kits, then you also need to add a heat source for the tent; All of it together does not pull a backpack.

A star trip does not mean that the group goes side by side to the bar of a star hotel. In the star, it is also a radial, hike, a base camp is set up, from which 1-2 day routes around the surroundings are made. Equipment for the base camp is delivered to the site either by transport or on foot by the vanguard of the group; He's setting up the base. In any case, the camp duty officer remains at the base, so the requirements for the fire safety of the furnace are reduced. It is even possible to equip a home-made tent with a home-made stove (see below). The person on duty heats it in the same mode in which catalytic heaters are used in a single hike - in a small group (see below), and if necessary and there is enough fuel, it also heats up during the day - there will be enough air in the tent.

Note: since in a large group at least its leader (instructor) is experienced, then for a trip to places with a lack of fuel, instead of a tent stove, you need to take a catalytic kerosene heater. It is much safer than gasoline (kerosene does not flash and flares up for a rather long time, especially at low temperatures), it can be taught to a beginner with the intelligence of a bonobo chimpanzee and control training can be done an hour before going out, and the fuel for a kerosene catalytic heater weighs less and takes up less space. than gas at the same time hike.

How to warm up

Without oxygen consumption

We exclude catalytic chemical heaters from consideration: they are expensive and give little heat. You can heat a sleeping bag or a balloon tent with a heating pad (see at the end). Just in case: a heating pad is such a cake or a thing like a sausage, which is bent to launch until something crunches inside, or pulled by a protruding rope. Then the components inside are mixed and an exothermic chemical reaction begins. The heating pad has cooled down - they throw it away, it is not refillable.

Heat storage

Heat-saving awnings for tents at the time of "canvas-rubber" tourism were not popular and remain so to this day, but in vain. After all, today the ideal material for heat transfer - metallized plastic film - is readily available. PET film is also very durable: you can purposely cut through it with a Mares knife, not just pierce it with a random knot. When folded, the heater takes up almost no space and weighs almost nothing.

The tent heater, firstly, retains the air heated by the tent. Secondly, it reflects back its very soft IR. In summer, you can sleep in a tent under a heating pad on top of a sleeping bag almost everywhere, except for the Far North, in any weather. Just don’t make the tent the same as on the right in the rice: it’s there only from precipitation. The awning must be cut in the shape of a tent with an indent on all sides of approx. 0.5 m and with the same clearance between the lower edge of the awning and the ground. It is better to give more heat transfer in front, approx. 1 m. Then in the “entrance hall” it will be possible to cook food in the wind, and the waste heat of the stove or cooking stove will go to heat not the world space, but the tent.

The heating element is assembled by welding plastic with a soldering iron through a Teflon film. It is also repaired in field conditions in an elementary way: with threads, cord, wire, chipping with pins or just sharp knots.

Note: supplying a tent with a heat source increases the efficiency and duration of ANY way of heating it.

Into the stone age

Our ancestors were not fools, since they survived then and lived to see civilization? A tent like a wigwam, a plague or a yaranga (see the figure on the right) keeps heat very well and is absolutely safe in terms of waste, because. ventilated. You can heat it with anything, from a catalytic burner to a fire. Heating - optimal, soft IR: sloping walls reflect it to the inhabitants. One condition: in order to keep the plus in the tent, the heater must work all night. Disadvantage: if the heater is flaming (stove, fire), the top of the plague tent is smoked. In winter - under sleeping bags you need to lay lodgments from spruce branches or, if there is no hay or straw, carry rolls of foam rubber with you. Not hard, but cumbersome.

The best plague tents are Finnish Lavvu, but domestic models are almost as good as them. It is easy to sew a winter chum tent with your own hands. In this case, for warming, you need to use clothing (not underwear) fleece with the fluffy side inward. A three-layer tent with insulation with synthetic winterizer or thin foam rubber during the campaign gains moisture and becomes heavier, swells and warms worse day by day.

We save heat

The accumulation of heat from an outdoor fire for a tent is also the oldest method of heating when camping. It is effective in places where there is enough wood fuel and there are stones approx. into a fist of dense heavy rocks: granite, gneiss, basalt, gabbro. The ideal option is a rounded moraine cobblestone. You will also need a cast-iron cauldron (better) or a steel bucket with a lid. The technique for heating the tent with natural heat accumulators is as follows:

1. We collect stones to fill the dishes without a top and put them in a pyramid;
2. We build a log house (well) or a hut (house) around a pile of stones, see fig. on right;
3. While dinner is being cooked and eaten, we add fuel and rake up coals on the stones;
4. We put the bucket / cauldron on the side of the burned-out fire and roll hot stones into it with a stick. There is no need to wrap them in foil, as advised in Runet: a metal vessel will perfectly re-radiate hard IR into soft;
5. We put the container with stones evenly and, in order to avoid heat loss due to convection, we fill the load with sand or dry earth;
6. We cover the container with a lid and hang it in a tent 0.5-1 m from the floor. Option (worse) - put on 4-5 stones.

The suspension option heats the tent up to 6 hours; with installation on the floor - 3-4 hours. In addition, the delivered bucket/boiler can be overturned. To prevent hot stones from rolling around the tent, the cover must be secured with wire or (if any) with a standard latch.

Heat - in the pipe!

Winter heating of the tent with a fire and a chimney (see the figure below) allows you to sleep on top of sleeping bags at -30 overboard. On YouTube you can find videos with the "exposure" of the impossibility (neither more nor less) of this method. Indeed, it is not always applicable. Thus, the excess of the bottom of the tent over the air intake end of the pipe must be at least 0.7 m. The recommended 0.5 was taken, probably due to thoughtless rounding. Further, bonfires are flame, light and smoke with varieties. In this case, you need a fire bonfire of a node (pos. a) or a reel (pos. b). Nodya can smolder all night, but it needs even logs from 1 m thick to an arm or thicker.

Finally, a thin-walled stainless steel pipe with a clearance diameter of 50-80 mm is needed. Simple steel will either burn out or not transfer enough heat to the air; aluminum will melt. Wrapping a pipe section in a fire with asbestos, as advised in some places, is nonsense, it is also a heat insulator. Also, a pipe is needed at least 2-2.5 m long; then warm air can be brought to the tent with a flexible hose. The pipe is assembled from knees with locks. In general, laying the heater turns out to be quite cumbersome, but for the base camp, heating with a pipe and a fire can be an option that saves the duty officer from looking after the stove and does not require additional fuel costs.

With air separation

In a 2-circuit petrol/kerosene/diesel camping heater (see figure on the right), the burner flame heats the heat exchanger through which the tent air is forcibly driven. 2-circuit heaters are safe in all respects, because placed outside, and very economical: 3 liters of diesel fuel is enough for continuous operation for 2-5 days. Disadvantages - high cost, bulkiness and energy dependence. They are used when the car remains at the base (it will need to be started periodically to recharge the battery) or in winter campsites with electricity.

"Oxygen"

Tent with a complete stove

This is the most expensive, but also the safest option if you use the oven according to the instructions. Almost all manufacturers of tourist equipment produce winter tents with stoves, but according to user reviews, there is some specialization depending on the nature of the trip. From domestic preferred:

• Chum, Zima, Blizzard - for a multi-day hike or with a base camp in a large group.
• Penguin, UP (1,2,4) - for singles (UP1) or overnight trips for a group of up to 4 people.
• Bullfinch, Bear, Stack - fishing.

The listed models are optionally equipped with a furnace, i.е. you can buy a stove later. From domestic camp stoves, Dymok, Snegir (with a heat exchanger), Sogra, Windrose, Poshekhonka or Onego's camp stove (Maslov's stove) are suitable for them. The latter is available for DIY, see the video below.

Video: do-it-yourself Onego tent stove

The stove in the tent

The risk of waste from a homemade tent stove is quite high, so sometimes camping stoves are made according to the scheme with a heat exchanger (pos. 1a in the figure) and placed outside. The disadvantage of this scheme is the complex, heavy and cumbersome fire-fighting cutting in the tent, so it is better to make a heating stove for a hike with a remote afterburner, pos. 1b. For house stoves, this scheme is rarely used due to technological complexity. For example, the efficiency of a country potbelly stove is easier to increase by introducing a long horizontal elbow - hogs into the chimney; in a tent, such an approach, of course, is not applicable.

As a tent stove with a remote afterburner, it has a huge advantage: in it, the temperature of the flue gases at the cut of the chimney source is much lower than in other metal stoves. As a result, a reliable fire-fighting cutting of a pipe in a tent turns out to be much easier and more compact: it turns out that a piece of fireproof fabric from 35x35 cm with a wire sewn into it or a flared stainless steel grommet, pos. 3 in fig. The gap between the grommet and the pipe is plugged with a rag from the same non-combustible fabric (shown by a blue arrow).

It is impossible to perform cutting from asbestos fabric: it is very dusty with carcinogenic dust. Satin-weave fiberglass is usually used, but this is also not optimal - in the vicinity of a heated pipe, fiberglass becomes brittle over time and begins to gradually dust with glass microneedles, which is also by no means useful. The best choice in this case is basalt fabric for body armor. It is heavier than fiberglass, but absolutely reliable and safe.

Drawings of a folding camp stove with a remote afterburner are given in pos. 2. Its “folding” only seems relative: when folded (dimensions in brackets), this stove allows you to load an 80-liter backpack with it with standard packing, i.e. a strong man in a group can carry both the stove and his own luggage, and a separate stove porter is not needed. The minimum thickness of stainless steel for this oven is 0.5 mm.

Note: when designing a camp stove for a tent on your own, it is advisable to focus on the heat engineering of the temporary stove by engineer Bystrov.

Gasoline

A catalytic heater for a winter tent gives a soft infrared and consumes less oxygen, but still decently. Nothing can be done to make it warm, the fuel needs an oxidizer. Therefore, they use camping heaters with catalytic afterburning twice a day: in the evening they turn on for the time from setting up the tent to lights out; turn it off at night! Then in the morning the tent attendant (he wakes up half an hour before the others) turns on the heater again while he warms up breakfast. In a small tent, it is better to direct the IR flow from top to bottom obliquely; in 6 or more local floor heaters with uniform radiation in all directions, pos. 6 in fig. For a fishing scarf, a mini heater-lantern is optimal, pos. 3.

Catalytic nozzles for cooking stoves and stoves (pos. 1) are emergency, they eat up oxygen in the tent very quickly. For weekend trips and fishing, gas heaters are more suitable, they are fireproof and their use does not require special experience. A catalytic tourist heater for a trip of more than 2-3 days is better to take kerosene, see above. If you are hiking with a base camp with the delivery of the avant-garde by transport, it may be more convenient to use a panel heater (pos. 5), because. It can also cook 2 dishes at once. But in this case, you need to look both ways behind the connecting fitting (red arrow in pos. 5): suddenly a flame appeared there, you must immediately close the cylinder valve and check the connecting hose. A loner-extremist, who carries everything with him and can only rely on himself, is most suitable for a catalytic kerosene mini-heater with a hob, pos. 7.

Of great importance for the reliability of the catalytic heater is the basis of the catalyst - platinum or nickel. In general, afterburners on platinum are less susceptible to the so-called. catalyst poisoning and are not prone to sudden failures, however, the chemical purity of both the catalyst material and its microstructure is also important. It is by no means cheap platinum “china” that can fail at the most inopportune moment, but branded nickel can last for years. Visually, you can navigate by the type of afterburner: if the burner looks like a solid surface (pos. 2) or a tiny button (pos. 3) and glows yellow-orange in operation, but this is probably platinum. If, however, a rather large “pimple” glows to a maximum of light red (pos. 4), then most likely the afterburner is on nickel. In general, when choosing a catalytic camping heater, it is better to be guided by the manufacturer's reputation and its warranties. Tourists are fastidious people, such a camping life, but there are no serious complaints about catalytic heaters Kovea, Coleman, Camping, Pathfinder.

on alcohol

The history of ethyl alcohol as a camping fuel goes back centuries, and for good reason: you can only get drunk from alcohol if you get drunk. With a lack of oxygen, the alcohol flame goes out, almost without releasing carbon monoxide. True, alcohol is flammable: it is highly fluid, it impregnates everything that is possible and what is impossible, its saturated vapor pressure is high even at low temperatures, and the flash point is low. Therefore, a home-made alcohol burner should be taken with you as an emergency, especially since it can be made at home from a coffee can, see fig.

Best of all for a camping alcohol burner, a jar with a tin lid, pos. 1-3: it can be kindled by pouring 4-5 ml of it, darling, into the lid; then the launch will be delayed up to 5-7 minutes instead of 1-3 when ignited from the pallet. In a jar with a plastic lid (pos. 4-6), you will firstly have to hermetically seal the gaping top with tin, which will now become the bottom. Secondly, punch a filling hole closed by a coin. If it flies off a flaming burner, a strong flame will burst out of the filling hole, and right there - splashes of burning alcohol. In general, not an option for a hike.

Nozzles for alcohol vapors are located at the height of the can 2/3-3/4 from the bottom. The higher the nozzles, the weaker the flame and the greater the possible filling of the burner. Thus, it is possible to regulate its thermal power and operating time within a fairly wide range: fuel consumption varies over time from 1.5 to 6 ml / min. For the safety and efficiency of this burner, it is extremely important that the nozzles are of the same diameter 1-2 mm, located evenly around the circumference at the same height and ensure the formation of flames. Therefore, the manufacture of an alcohol burner from a can is made next. way:

1. On a wooden block of the required thickness, an awl or a locksmith's scriber is fixed horizontally;
2. The jar is pressed against the marking point and turned;
3. Next, the jar is wrapped with a strip of paper, on which the beginning / end of the circle is marked;
4. The paper strip is marked into 12-15 equal parts (for an 80 mm can);
5. On a piece of paper on the shell (round sidewall), the banks mark the centers of the holes;
6. Pierce holes with a round awl of the desired diameter;
7. The awl is stuck horizontally and perpendicular to the shell in this place;
8. Each time when punching another hole, the tool, without removing it, is smoothly turned upwards by the same angle of 45-50 degrees. It is convenient to use a template from a piece of plywood for this.

Note: a wide variety of information from liquid fuel burners, descriptions and drawings of home-made ones can be found on the English site zenstoves.net

Candles

Heating the tent with candles is, so to speak, fashionable, but also the worst way. The thermal power of the candle is only 40-50 W, and saturated hydrocarbons of the paraffin series with a slight oxygen deficiency give a lot of carbon monoxide. In the old days, there were cases of burning out from candles in large high ballrooms. If the tent is heated with candles, then it is necessary to raise the canopy at the entrance by 3-4 cm from the bottom, and open the window on the opposite side. The only advantage of candle heating is uniform heat release for a long time.

However, good heating with just candles is not easy to achieve even in a one-man tent: the heat of a candle is predominantly molecular-kinetic. To convert it to soft IR requires a construction of ceramic flower pots (pos. 1 and 2 in the figure), fragile, bulky and rather heavy. Its efficiency strongly depends on the distance between the visible end of the flame and the lower cut of such a cap, so it is better to use short plump holiday candles for heating. Their burning time is 3-4 hours, which also reduces the risk of burning.

Note: A "pot" converter of molecular kinetic heat into soft IR is best used with an alcohol burner, branded or homemade. Branded cooking and heating sets of this type are produced from unbreakable ceramics, pos. 3. I cooked dinner, put on a cap - it warmed up by the end of the scarf. There is not enough oxygen - the alcohol flame will turn yellow, weaken, stretch upwards, which is immediately noticeable, but will not give a dangerous fumes.

However, household lighting candles can be successfully used in autumn-spring and winter fishing for warming hands, drying mittens and wet cuffs. In this case, the candle is placed in a casing from an old thermos (see the figure on the right) or something like it; at the bottom, a window is cut through to install a candle and provide air access. A candle fishing heater, with a slight minus outside, maintains a tiny plus in the tent, sufficient so that the holes do not freeze and insufficient for the handkerchief to freeze to ice.

Heating without heater

Do you know that there are tents in which, without heating, you can sleep in underwear under a blanket at minus 30 outside? These are single-seat balloon tents (cocoon tents) suspended from trees, see fig.:

During long hikes and expeditions in the cold season, travelers cannot do without a heat source in a tent, just like ice fishermen. In order to have the opportunity to have a good rest at night, the simplest and most effective means is a tent stove. Consider the main types of the device, its differences and range of application.

Peculiarities

The device is intended not only for heating the lodging for the night. It can also be used as a hotplate for cooking and boiling a kettle. And there is also the possibility of drying wet clothes and shoes in the immediate vicinity of the oven. But leaving shoes or clothes on the surface of the stove can lead not only to damage, but also to a fire in the tent. When choosing a unit, you need to rely not only on the popularity of the manufacturer's brand, but also on the material from which the stove and chimney itself are made, the diameter and direction of the pipe.

Such a device has a number of advantages:

• relatively small size, which attracts most buyers;
• good result in heating the tent;
• a light weight;
• ideal for use in both winter and ordinary camping tent.

No matter how good this acquisition is, it will always have flaws that not everyone can easily put up with.

• High cost. Not every traveler will be able to afford such equipment.
• Size can be both an indisputable plus and a significant minus. for a specific hike if it runs through dense forests or rocky terrain. This applies only to species that cannot be disassembled.

Important to consider material and purpose of the tent itself. As a rule, winter tents are designed for the use of heating accessories in them; denser materials are used in their manufacture. Also, these types of tents have a double layer of walls, which does not allow too much heat loss, which cannot be said about the usual summer camping tent. If there is a need to use heating in it, then some precautions must be taken.

For example, find out the characteristics of this tent and make sure that the material of a simple model can withstand high temperatures, as well as install the stove itself away from the walls of the tent.

Kinds

Although outwardly all the stoves are very similar, they have a lot of differences: according to the principle of operation, design and installation methods in the tent itself. All devices differ in wood and gas.

The wood burning stove is the most common type. Its main advantage is an almost infinite supply of fuel. While the gas one will work until the gas in the cylinder runs out, which will not be difficult to bring with you. This heating option will be relatively inexpensive, most importantly, safe to use.

This indispensable thing will suit fishermen in the winter, as it will be much easier to bring a gas cylinder with you than to drag a bundle of firewood with you.

Probably the most recognizable stove - "bourgeois". Over the decades of its existence, it has undergone hundreds of modifications, but the principle of operation has not changed. It does not have a specific geometry, it can be round or square, it has good heat dissipation. This option is very popular with those who like to do everything with their own hands. The potbelly stove is characterized by low costs and a good output.

Good for hikers collapsible mini ovens. They are light weight and take up very little space when disassembled. In terms of functionality, they are in no way inferior to their “adult” counterparts, with the exception of one problem inherent in all collapsible stoves: without stiffening ribs, they bend strongly from temperature. As a rule, collapsible stoves are relatively inexpensive. The price depends on the material used in the assembly process.

The better the material is resistant to high temperatures, the higher the cost.

When it comes to large tents for 10 people, as well as heating small areas, such as a storage room, basement, etc., the stove must match the volumes. For such needs, a portable stove is suitable. It is often chosen by summer residents, geologists and rescuers. This choice is due to the relatively small size and weight of the furnace, its economy, reliability and efficiency.

Such a device is easy to move from place to place, it does not require a lot of fuel, it is easy to install and will not interfere with other things.

In the manufacturing process of furnaces, materials such as cast iron and titanium are used. Cast iron and titanium devices are more reliable, but quite heavy. Models made from these metals are durable and resistant to high temperatures, but are quite rare.

When looking for the perfect tent stove, you need to understand that there is no one universal model for all life situations. Each option is designed for some specific purposes.

Popular Models

On sale there are many options for every taste, color and wallet. Let's analyze the most common types, which are preferred by most lovers of hiking.

Perhaps the most desirable stove in every tent is housekeeper. Not only for its ability to quickly warm a tent, but also for its beautiful appearance that will decorate the interior of any shelter. Consider the features of this stove on the example of products Bereg company. The main advantage of this device is its compactness and light weight, food-grade heat-resistant stainless steel is used in production.

The material is resistant to high temperatures and does not corrode. Even small deformations during transportation will not impair the characteristics of the furnace. The presence and ability to install and dismantle protective screens, if necessary, can add security when left unattended for a short period of time.

The stove has a removable glass on the blower, which allows it to be used in long-term burning mode for 5 hours on one firewood tab. This eliminates the need to constantly monitor the fire and throw up firewood. Removable aluminum legs are attached to the body with wing screws. This provides good stability and fast assembly.

When disassembled, the device has a compact size and a carrying bag. Many other models have a significant drawback in the form of separately portable parts of the chimney. In the same instance, this problem was solved by folding the collapsible chimney inside the firebox, saving space.

The second no less useful, popular model of the stove is "Tourist Gorynych". Such a device has a round body made of high-strength, heat-resistant stainless steel, resistant to deformation from high temperatures. The end parts are in the form of cones, which gives more rigidity to the structure. The inner part of the ends is supplemented with stone wool for improved thermal insulation.

This ensures that the firebox is properly heat dissipated in the right places, and also protects the awning and your hands from accidental burns.

To improve convection, increase heat output and safety properties, Gorynych stove models are equipped with protective cover. This element is a very important and useful part of the device.

The tourist stove "Gorynych", powered by firewood, can be converted to other types of fuel. One of the features of the device is the possibility of additional installation of a gas or diesel module. These elements can make the stove a multi-fuel camping heater with many useful functions.

One of the main criteria for choosing a furnace is fire safety. In the described instance, a lot has been done for this purpose. This unit has 2-level spark detection system(a chipper in the inside of the furnace itself and an umbrella catcher on the pipe). In addition, the chimney is equipped with an additional spark arrester, which prevents sparks from flying out.

Protection against accidental ignition of grass or the floor of the tent will provide high legs-stands and a convenient box for ash waste, and design features make it possible to avoid excessive heating of the chimney pipes. Auxiliary protection of the owner and the material of the tent is provided due to the "cold" execution of the front and rear walls of the furnace, as well as the protective casing.

In addition to well-known brands and models, you can also see budget stoves on the shelves. As a rule, they are made in the image and likeness of well-known brands with slight differences, for example, in the quality of the metal used. Such a stove is more susceptible to temperature deformation - the thinner the “black” metal used in production, the shorter the service life of the device.

Otherwise, these stoves will work in the same way as a conventional wood-burning stove. With all the disadvantages of cheap models, they have one very significant plus, often outweighing even good models from well-known manufacturers - this is the price. Such options are very cheap compared to those described above.

How to choose?

Almost every model on the market is designed for certain operating conditions.

For example, on a hiking expedition in the taiga, it is not advisable to purchase a gas-powered option, since it is illogical to heat with gas in the forest, and it’s not very pleasant to carry even a small gas cylinder. Or a fisherman, going fishing in the winter, being on the ice (in the middle of a river or lake), it will not be so convenient to run to the neighboring forest for firewood. That is, for a fishing tent, it is easier and cheaper to operate a gas stove, and for an expedition in a forest, a wood-burning model will be appropriate.

Having decided on the conditions in which to use this device, you should pay attention to the material from which it is made. The quality of raw materials directly determines how safe the purchase will be.. It must be done made of quality materials, without visible defects indicating a fake. It is advisable to buy such things in specialized stores that can give a guarantee for the product.

Operating rules

To install a stove in a tent, you will need to prepare a place for a specific model. It all depends on its design and installation method. When choosing it, one should not forget about safety precautions. It is forbidden to install the stove too close to the walls of the tent. According to the instructions, we assemble the firebox and stand, if they are disassembled. Next, we proceed to the assembly of the chimney, we are also guided by the instructions.

Pipes must be tightly connected and fit into each other with a little effort until it stops against the flared part. After the final assembly, you can proceed for leak testing. To do this, you will need to build a small fire in the firebox to see if there is a smoke leak. If found, it must be eliminated.

It is impossible to melt the furnace with full force after assembly without checking. After the test run, you can start heating the shelter.

When camping, the tent becomes shelter from the weather. It saves from moisture and wind, but in cold weather, even a good sleeping bag will not save you from the cold.

Therefore, lovers of nomadic holidays come up with various mobile heating systems.

Types of heating for tents

Which tasks should solve heating:

1. Heating and lighting tents in moderate frost without providing sleep. Ideal for fishermen - so that the holes do not freeze. Suitable open fire systems - gas burner, multi-wick candle in a tin can, kerosene lantern"bat" with a heat exchange nozzle. Some fishermen use catalytic heaters - one-time charged aluminum alum chemical heaters (do not give a significant increase in heat).

Photo 1. When installing a metal stove in a tent, you need to take care of a safe chimney.

1. Heating for overnight stays during short trips. A massive metal stainless steel stove, a gas infrared heater with a chimney will do.
2. Heating of tents on firewood during long hikes. The main characteristics are lightness, reliability, absence of carbon monoxide, the ability to use local fuel.
3. Tent heating in extreme conditions of mountain passes. The main thing here is ease and efficiency. Gas burners with a tourist bottle of 5 liters.

Attention! Problem carbon monoxide- the main thing to pay attention to! Only three breaths lead to severe poisoning, loss of consciousness and death! Do not neglect common sense for the sake of momentary comfort.

Tent heating depending on the location of the furnace can be internal and external.

• Internal heating requires the removal of combustion products, as well as placing the stove in a cramped space.
• External heating - transfer of temperature from the source of combustion to the tent without the admixture of carbon monoxide.

Is it possible to install an oven-economy?

For a small winter hike, a potbelly stove is suitable from thin steel. It will heat a large tent, and transporting a heavy stove in winter makes it easier to use a sled or drag.

She consists of a firebox and a chimney. The firebox door must provide regulation of the intensity of combustion, the entire structure must be airtight.

Frame ovens gets very hot. On the one hand, it is a plus, it is used as a camping stove for heating a kettle or food. The downside is the risk of fire. The wall of the tent near the stove should be sheathed with foil insulation, it is better to make the valve at the outlet of the chimney from heat-resistant fabric - a fire hose or a fireman's suit.

Install and heat such an oven Just- retractable legs are installed, the chimney is passed through the valve on the roof, firewood is laid.

Minus - short battery life, opportunity reverse smoke when throwing firewood and strong wind, sparks from a pipe with a strong flame, relatively large weight.

Efficient heating by dry pipe system. Drawing

The original and proven method of heating can be dry pipe laid through the fire "Finnish candle". If the tent is large, you can pass the pipe into a fire or a smoldering coal pit. This method is only gaining popularity, but outperforms others in simplicity, efficiency, safety and transportability.

Photo 2. Drawing of heating a tent using a dry pipe system. Cold air moves through the chimney, being heated by the fire along the way.

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How to make a dry pipe with your own hands: materials and tools

No special tools are required. Enough files for metal, file, sealant made of heat resistant silicone.

It is better to use pipes aluminum rods from a vacuum cleaner and a shackle from a shell bed, which has a figurative shape, which is ideal for installation in a “Finnish candle”. All joints must be tight and open with a noticeable effort.

How the system works. Is it burning for a long time?

Finnish candle - a fire inside a log. It is done like this: log 50-70 cm long splitting, with an ax the middle is chosen and kindling is laid instead. The log is collected and pulled together with wire. The candle is installed above the ground, the draft of burning gases passes through the burning channel. The intensity of combustion is regulated by the lid and the installation height.

You can adapt a Finnish candle for heating a tent, passing the pipe through the burning middle log. The pipe should be with a figurative shape, the log is “dressed” on a vertical section.

Cold air is taken in through the lower horizontal section, heated in a smoldering log and fed through an air duct into the tent.

In severe frosts, the air duct is better insulate with non-combustible basalt wool insulation. Then the heat loss will be minimal.

Advantages this type of heating

• Safety. The firebox is outside the tent, the products of combustion do not mix with the heated air. The possibility of fire or suffocation is practically excluded, and by increasing the lower air duct, we move the air intake away from the combustion source.
• Ease of manufacture. Ready-made tubes connected to sockets are commercially available.
• Transportability. The weight of the entire installation, including the ax, in total 2 kilograms.
• Versatility use. Wherever there is a log of a certain length, you can dilute the Finnish candle. The core of the tree burns better - it has a certain moisture content.
• Duration burning log - 3 to 6 hours depending on thickness. This is quite enough to sleep in the warmth.

What to consider when using dry pipes

In the manufacture of heating a tent from a dry pipe passed through a Finnish candle, a simple fire or a coal pit, the following difficulties may arise:

1. Incorrect pipe diameter. The larger the tent, the larger the diameter of the pipes.
2. Leaks at the joints pipes. Carbon monoxide enters through them. The diameter is selected so as to fit perfectly tightly. There should be no joints inside the fireplace.
3. The air intake is too close to the fire. Ideally, it should be lengthened and taken out of the tent. The air exchange will be ideal, it will save heat.
4. It is better to use as a heating pipe stainless steel 1-2 mm thick. The supply pipes are made of aluminum or thin stainless steel.
5. You can protect the fabric from fire by pulling it between the fire and the tent frozen wet gauze screen.
6. To the fire did not squint and did not fall, it is desirable to support or tie it to a support.

In descriptions of the adventures of geologists, the method of heating a hut with clay pipes is considered a curiosity. However, in the presence of a sealed dry pipe system in this way you can heat a small two or three person tent.