In this article, we will consider the cultivation of Gladiolus in the open field, determine the timing of when to plant. Let's take a look at the step-by-step instructions. We will learn about the optimal conditions for breeding. Let's talk about flower care.

The beauty of flowering gladioli directly depends on their care, which consists of several main stages:

Digging and storage.
Reproduction by separating children (daughter corms).

It all starts with the purchase, it is important to correctly determine the quality of planting material. It is better not to order corms via the Internet, but to buy in specialized stores to determine the quality. On fig. 1, the differences between the parent corm of the gladiolus and the daughter ones are clearly visible. In the second photo, these two types of planting material are in a cleaned and separated state.

Rice. 1. Maternal and daughter corms of gladioli. The difference in size in these types of planting material is clearly visible. A young corm will develop from the baby next year (click to enlarge)

Step-by-step instruction

What to look for when choosing bulbs? The size of the primordia of the sprout is important, this is an indicator of the splendor of flowering. The corm should be of good height (not flat). The size of future flowers is directly proportional to the diameter of the bulb. A thickness of 1.25-2 cm corresponds to a height of 60-90 cm. If the tuber is more than 2.5 cm, then the gladioli will be tall (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. The appearance of a good bulb, the height of the pruning of the leaves after digging, and the options for dividing corms for propagation. The rudiments of growth on bulbs of different quality are clearly visible, by which it is possible to determine the suitability of specimens for planting (click to enlarge)

The best option for storing purchased bulbs before planting is a dry room. If the bulbs have been stored since last year, then in 20-25 days it is necessary to clean the planting material from covering scales and spread the sprouts up in a warm and bright place, but without direct sunlight. Corms are left dry; it is unnecessary to put them in a damp cloth. Before this, the planting material is cleaned of scab disease sites, cutting off the affected area and lubricating with brilliant green. Immediately before planting, the bulbs are disinfected in various ways, for example, using synthetic or folk remedies. Additionally, you can dip the planting material in a growth stimulator. For the daughter bulb (children), the concentration of the solutions is made 2 times weaker.

The depth and distance when placing planting material on the bed depends on the consistency of the soil and the size of the corms. Harvest gladioli after removal of inflorescences after 30-40 and 45-50 days for early (medium) and late varieties, respectively. Dark-colored and blue types are the first to be eliminated due to their less resistance to fungus compared to other colors. Plants from babies are removed last. The main peak of digging falls on September, the procedure is carried out on a dry fine day.

The process includes:

Cutting the stems leaving a small hemp (0.5-1 cm).
Removal of roots and old corm.
The shortening of the roots in children (juvenile bulbs), the removal of the roots of such specimens is carried out in the spring (before planting).
Washing corms from soil residues and disinfection in a solution of potassium permanganate (0.05-0.1%).
Drying at a temperature of 25-30°C with preliminary unfolding of varieties in bags. The process lasts 15 days, then the planting material is kept at 20-22°C for 30-35 days.
Store at 5-10°C in a dry cellar, at the bottom of a refrigerator or next to the coldest window sill.

Growing from seeds and seedlings

Amateur gardeners rarely use seed propagation, since with this method varietal characteristics (color, texture, growth characteristics) are lost. For selective breeding of new varieties, plants are sown with seeds.

Rules for obtaining and sowing seeds:

It is necessary to use monochromatic varieties growing next to flowers of the same shade.
If there is a possibility of cross-pollination with other types, then the possibility of obtaining the same type of plants from seeds is reduced to zero, but this is how new varieties are created.
For seedlings, seeds are sown in February. Soil mixture: leaf humus and coarse-grained river sand (in a ratio of 7: 3 or 2: 1).
Seeds are kept for 2-3 hours in a solution of root, sodium humate or heteroauxin.
Seedlings are moved to the greenhouse in April-May, when the earth warms up well. They leave it right in the boxes and drop it a little.
Frequent feeding is carried out to obtain healthy corms with a diameter of 0.8-1.5 cm.

If you want to breed a special variety, then crossbreeding is carried out. This is a rather laborious process due to the variety of colors, up to the presence of inclusions of different tones. The number of buds (10-25), plant height (up to 1.5 m) depends on the variety. The desire to keep the specimen in its original form involves the use of bulbs or planting gladioli at a considerable distance in order to prevent cross-pollination of varieties.

For top dressing, it is better to use a complex mineral fertilizer; for example, a solution of zinc sulfate (0.2 g / l) is also suitable. The full development of plants, that is, the appearance of flowers, is achieved in the 2-3rd year. In the southern latitudes or in the presence of a heated greenhouse, the February sowing of seeds is carried out immediately into the soil under the greenhouse shelter, and in the temperate zone - after the earth has warmed up, dropping the plants directly in the boxes. The resulting baby is dug up in the fall and left to be stored until spring, having previously treated it with a disinfectant solution.

Care during storage and feeding

Storage of gladiolus bulbs is carried out in well-ventilated conditions. The best option is boxes, canvas bags are also suitable for sorting varieties and bulbs by diameter. Drying is carried out at room temperature, but at the end of the process, the planting material must be placed in conditions of 3‑8 ° C (extreme values - 5-10 ° C). During winter storage, the corms are sorted out, the presence of moisture on the surface is checked and it is removed by drying and turning the specimens.

It is allowed to store planting material in a suspended state using a vegetable net. Corms are pre-wrapped in newspaper. Why is it necessary to leave a short stump when cutting the stem ( cm. step by step instructions) If the remainder of the stem is small, then thrips will not be able to settle in it, damaging planting material during winter storage. In the process of cutting shoots during the autumn digging of corms, it is necessary to periodically disinfect the tool in a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate. Diluted alcohol and an aqueous solution of iodine are also suitable.

The old corm is immediately separated to speed up drying. The Step-by-Step Instructions section shows further steps before storage and the temperature regime for winter aging. It is necessary to apply fertilizers to the soil for growing gladioli in spring and autumn:

In springtime: ammonium nitrate or urea (30-40 g), ash (50 g), superphosphate 20-40 g (if double is used, then less is added, and more simple).
In autumn: potassium sulfate and superphosphate (40 and 100 g, respectively).

When planting gladioli in the spring, the Master complex dressing (10-20 g per sq. M), nitroammofoska or kemira (30-40 g per sq. M) is suitable. Top dressing after flowering promotes the formation of daughter bulbs. As special complex fertilizers, you can use: Vegaflor, Garmavit, Herbasol, Floran. These are special liquid fertilizers, the optimal solution is 0.2%.

In table. 1 shows the doses of macronutrients for fertilizing gladioli in concentration (g per sq. M), it is also necessary to know the stages of feeding and their dosage (Table 2).

Table 1. Dosage of elements for feeding gladioli during the growing season

Stages of development	Weight, g per sq. m
Stages of development	N	R	K	Sa	mg
The appearance of 2-3 sheets	30	30	30	10	20
4-5 leaves	15	30	60	10	20
7-8 leaves	15	60	60	10	20
Bud formation	–	30	60	–	–
15 days after removal of flower stalks	–	–	60	–	–

Thus, feeding during the growth of gladioli is carried out after the development of the second leaf. The pause between fertilizing should be at least 10 days.

Table 2. Fertilization process

The table shows the stages of development:

Stages of development (number of leaves)	top dressing	Dosage (g / number of tablespoons per 10 liters of water)
2	Urea	30/3
3-4	Urea and potassium sulfate	30/3, 30/1,5
5-6	Urea and potassium sulfate	15/1.5 and 30/1.5
The appearance of a flower	Nitrophoska	30/2
After the flowers fade	Superphosphate and potassium sulfate	15/1 and 30/5

In table. 3 shows the required trace elements and their dosages. During the entire growing season, it is necessary to spray every 10-20 days with solutions of copper sulfate (1%) or potassium permanganate (0.2%), alternating them, that is, one option is repeated after 20-40 days.

Table 3 What micronutrients to add

The table shows top dressing:

Stages of development (number of leaves)	top dressing	Dosage per sq. m (g); concentration (g per 10 l of water)
When sprouts appear	Molybdenum (provides the development of the root system)	0.1; 1 g Watering on the leaves
2	zinc sulfate	2; 2
3-4		2; 2
The appearance of a flower	Boron - boric acid (large corms are formed)	2; 2

Landing

The time for planting gladioli bulbs comes when the temperature reaches 10 ° C at a depth of 10 cm. Gladiolus are planted in rows. When planting gladiolus corms, it is important to observe the distances:

Between copies - 10-15 cm.
Row spacing - 25-30 cm.
Children are planted closer to each other: between specimens - 3-5 cm, row spacing - 20-25 cm.

The depth of planting is chosen depending on the characteristics of the soil and the size of the planting material. Bulbs are best grown on light soils, then for corms 3 cm wide, the depth is 15 cm, for daughter bulbs - up to 5 cm. For heavy soils, the parameters are 8-10 and 2-2.5 cm. After creating grooves or pits, deepening is needed shed with a saturated solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin. A little sand is poured into the prepared holes, on which the corms are hung, then they are covered with earth.

After the appearance of sprouts and their development to a size of 10 cm, it is desirable to mulch the plantings with humus 3-5 cm thick:

The soil does not float when moistened.
There is no need to constantly loosen.
The intensity of the appearance of weeds is reduced.
From the humus, nutrients come to the roots.

Plantings are watered about once a week with the calculation of water consumption of 10-15 liters per square meter. m. In the absence of mulch, loosening is required after each watering and periodic weeding from weeds.

Planting gladioli should be in a sunny place, although it is allowed to organize a flower bed in the shade. Dig up the bed before planting up to 30 cm deep. It is not recommended to plant corms in low-lying and damp areas of the site and in the presence of a high level of groundwater.

Soil features:

Good structure.
Weak reaction.
Preparation in the fall (the best option for fertilizing).
If alkalization is necessary, dolomite flour must be added.

For planting gladioli, the optimal area is without blocking the sun from the east, south and west, then the sun will illuminate the plantings all day. The presence on the north side of protection from cold winds is welcome. The screen must be located at least 5 m from the flower bed.

Crop rotation when growing gladiolus gives the best results. The optimal predecessors of gladioli are plants whose diseases are caused by other pathogens:

Melons.
Legumes (saturate with nitrogen).
Dahlias.
Strawberry.
Garlic and onion (natural antiseptics).
Tagetes.
Tomatoes.
Zinnia.

It is better not to plant gladiolus where carrots and other root crops used to grow, that is, next to cruciferous plants that thrips like and, therefore, pose a danger to bulbs.

Planting dates vary depending on the climatic location of the region:

Siberia - from May 5 to May 25-30 (a wide range of dates is associated with the instability of weather conditions, you need to focus on the climate).
The middle lane is from mid to late April, as well as in the first half of May.

Description of the best varieties

Varieties of gladioli are divided into early, mid-early, middle and late, the time of their spring planting varies. Varietal varieties are distinguished by the richness of the color palette:

White: Divinity, Dmitry Solunsky, C-Foam, Poplar fluff.
Blue: Modru programs.
Yellow: Indian Summer, Golden Bells (Golden Bells).
Brown: Krakatau, Chocolate Girl.
Reds: Red Moscow, Oscar, May Day, Rusich.
Fawn and salmon: Ursa Major, Sounds of the saxophone, Professor Parolik Verinshe, Cook.
Pink: Raspberry, Rosy cheeks, Russian beauty, Pink lace.
Lilac: Waterfall spray, Babylon, Wizard, Fisher's Spartan.

Varieties of gladioli, in addition to shade, are classified into 4 main groups (Table 4 describes examples of varieties):

Butterfly. Some varieties lead to irritation of the skin, the petals are slightly wrinkled, reminiscent of butterfly wings.
Dwarf. They look like primroses, but differ in the low length of the shoots, they do not need support. In other groups, the stems can reach over a meter in height depending on the cultivar. Suitable for growing in containers and forming decorative patio areas.
Large-flowered. Popular in Europe and used to create bouquets. Most often, along with primroses, they are planted close to the house to decorate the facade.
Primulose. Smaller, the upper petals are elongated and bent in the form of a hood.

Table 4 Varieties of various types of gladioli

Category	Varieties - main color
large-flowered	Belle de Nui and Blue Bird are dark purple and look beautiful against the backdrop of garden bushes. Invitate - pink with a white rim on the petals, flowering in August-September. Vera Lynn - light blue with a dark zone in the middle, the lack of a variety in a tall stem, tying to a support is required. Most often planted on curbs. Costa - lilac, flowering in August-September. The plant looks great in single or group plantings. Faro is an annual variety, a good option for cutting into a bouquet.
primrose	Robin - red-burgundy with corrugated petals. Joyce - bright lemon with corrugated petals, flowering in August-September. Joyce is perfect for flower beds and alpine slides.
Butterfly	Melody - rich raspberry, early medium, included in the list of varieties of Russia. Georgette - red with yellow patches. Serafin - pink with lemon splashes, tops the list of the best varieties. Frizzled Coral Lace - light pink, the petals are reminiscent of coral reefs, therefore highly frilled. Dianitto - pale yellow, with a red blotch on the throat. Libeli - red-yellow with a bizarre combination of shades, very fragrant, is considered one of the best varieties.
Dwarf	Amigo - brown, corrugated flowers. Astro is purple. Bakeru - smoky raspberry. Dolly - light red with white patches. Earlie Highlight - salmon, yellow spotting is present. Little Jade Green - light green. Lucina - light salmon in the center of cream spots. Ling is dark orange. Mini Mays - yellow.

Of particular note are small-flowered undersized gladioli with high winter hardiness, capable of surviving under snow in the middle zone. Varieties with short stature and small flowers are not necessarily cold-resistant, such a statement in stores is erroneous. It must be remembered that all varietal gladioli are dug up for the winter, regardless of morphological characteristics; even shelter does not save them from the cold.

Winter hardiness is inherent only in gladiolus species, but they are extremely difficult to find. Names and characteristics of these varieties:

The most common is the tiled gladiolus, it is also called the tiled skewer (Gladiolus imbricatus). In the Middle lane, only it can not be dug up for the winter and left without shelter.
Gladiolus sowing (G. segetum)
Common (G. communis)
Constantinople or Byzantine (G. byzantinus).

The last three species can be left in the ground, but with shelter, there are other varieties of winter-hardy gladioli. Their disadvantages:

Lack of beauty due to the small size of the flowers.
The color is mainly in the range of lilac-violet shades.
The peduncle is short, and the inflorescence is looser compared to hybrid varieties.
The stems are loosely held upright, can lie down from rain and wind.

Species gladioli are mainly found in collectors' gardens to form landscape plantings that resemble natural ones. Plants look best in a group and a suitable background. Landing gladiolus imbricate is carried out in the fall, the perianth is 3 cm long. The species likes frequent watering, but does not tolerate waterlogging.

Methods of propagation of gladioli

Mostly gladioli, as well as wintering species, propagate:

Planting daughter bulbs (tuber buds, babies).
division of the maternal corm.
Seeds can easily propagate wintering species. Sowing is done in autumn for winter aging or in spring after stratification (short-term cooling). Flowering in such plantings will begin in 2-3 years.

Well-drained soil is required to prevent stagnant moisture. A bed or flower bed is formed with an elevation so that excess water drains. It is best to cover any wintering species, including Gladiolus imbricate, to ensure a stable temperature in winter. As materials, you can use dry foliage or roofing material. The leaves of wintering species are left for the winter, a transplant is necessary every 2-3 years, but in good conditions, the tiled gladiolus is able to stay on the same bed for 6-7 years without any problems. For varietal varieties, reproduction is optimal through the formation of children. The mother corm can be purposefully divided, but in some varieties it itself splits into two, but not every season. When propagating seeds, the main thing is not to delay collecting them, otherwise they will be blown away by the wind. Seeds come out of the pods suddenly, so you can be late with their collection (see the section "Growing from seeds and seedlings" for details).

With good care, a baby can give a peduncle in the first year of planting, it becomes a bulb in one season and forms several new babies, which ensures successful reproduction of any variety. You can save even a very small tuber bud that will not bloom in the first season, but is able to form a small bulb that is gaining size in subsequent years, and several daughters.

Prevention from diseases and pests

Prevention depends on weather conditions. At high humidity, the likelihood of damage to gladioli by botrycosis increases, as a result of the development of rot, the death of the flower occurs. Spraying saves planting with a special solution: 2 liters of copper sulfate are mixed with a liter of water and 20 g of green soap are added. For processing, a 0.25% solution of copper chloride oxide is suitable. When a disease occurs, the bulbs are dug up early, and then dried at 30°C for a week, then the temperature is reduced to 18-20°C for a month.

Mandatory treatment of corms with synthetic preparations or extracts of phytoncidal plants avoids fungal infections, bacterial infections and thrips invasion. You can use the usual infusion of garlic or potassium permanganate.

Chemical preparations and other options for processing corms:

0.3% solution of Fundazole or potassium permanganate, hold for 30-50 minutes or 1-2 hours, respectively. Use after digging.
Keeping corms in a dissolved mixture of copper sulfate (5 g) and potassium permanganate (1 g per liter of warm water). The excavated specimens are cleaned and soaked for 9 hours.
A 0.05% solution of potassium permanganate is used for disinfection immediately before planting, immersing the planting material for half an hour, such exposure does not harm the sprouts.
An infusion or squeezed juice of garlic (100 g of cloves per liter of water) is used when planting material is damaged by thrips during storage. Corms are placed for 2-3 hours to significantly increase the likelihood of healthy shoots and roots, but the start of flowering will be delayed by 7-10 days.

For children, solutions are made 2 times weaker in concentration. To protect against fungal infections, fundazol, oxychom, copper sulfate, phytosporin are used, they are treated with drugs before planting. When diseased specimens are found, they are immediately removed from the garden, digging with a clod of earth, and the site is shed with copper sulphate. During the growth of the vegetative mass, gladioli are treated with solutions of copper and potassium permanganate (for dosages, see the section "Care during storage and top dressing"). Additionally, spraying with Actellik, Fitoverm, Decis, Fufanon, etc. is carried out to prevent the invasion of thrips.

Inaction will lead to the death of the bulb, it is enough to assess the damage by pathogens in the later stages of the disease (Fig. 3).

Rice. 3. Stages of defeat of thrips and fusarium. In the first case, the corm dries out, as the thrips sucks the juices out of it, in the second case, the fungus covers the surface of the corm and spreads through its cells, causing the death of the latter (click to enlarge)

Disease-resistant varieties of gladiolus

There is no clear list of disease-resistant gladiolus varieties. Research in this area is constantly gaining momentum, articles are published and dissertations are defended. Early and mid-early varieties are relatively resistant to diseases.

The list of varieties for the middle lane, breeding well and resistant to diseases:

Whites: Northern Bela, Super Star.
Cream, yellow: America, Heroine, Sensepot.
Orange: Kerfi, Tiger Flame.
Salmon pink: Coral reef, Maestro, Gagarin's smile.
Reds (without special shades, interspersed with black, an admixture of pink or brown): Glednis, Jack of Spades, Dixelend, Cameltone, Swordmaker, Midelien Red, Nikita, Oktyabryonok, Fashion Plate, Erlibest, Ondine.
Lilac: Robin, Lavender, Pavander Baird, Knights Owl, Okid Frost, Sapphire Mystery.
Blue, blue, with a purple tint: Periwinkle, Blue Raffles, Vidovila, Night Oud, Navy Blue.

Relatively recently, studies have been carried out on individual varieties of gladiolus for resistance to a number of common diseases (botrytiosis, fusarium) and thrips damage. It has been established that varieties Scarlet Sails, Ballet on Ice, Ladies' Fan, Green Lawn, Golden Beehive, Spartan, Song, Typhoon, Big Temptation, Blue Bird have a relatively high level of complex natural protection against the above problems. Early varieties are less susceptible to dry black rot.

Growing in a greenhouse, on a windowsill, outdoors and in winter

For cultivation in open ground, lighted, dry, elevated and not prone to water accumulation areas are chosen (lowlands are not suitable, the best soils are sandy loam and light loam). Initially, gladioli come from the subtropics and do not respond well to strong and cold winds (they grow better in the presence of artificial or natural barriers, on the sunny side behind garden fences or plantings), they cannot be planted along ravines and slopes. Crop rotation should be observed to prevent the spread of pests and infections, in particular to reduce Fusarium and rot infestation. Loamy soils can be used for cultivation, but sand must be added to them, the beds should be high.

More about planting depth depending on soil consistency and distance:

Lungs (water passes quickly): Bulb diameter times 4.
Heavy: Bulb diameter times 3.
Depth range: 5 to 15 cm.
Gap: large specimens (15 cm), medium (10 cm), small (5 cm).
Row spacing: 30-35 cm.

Tip #1. Autumn digging of gladioli becomes easier if sand 3 cm thick is poured into the bottom of the groove.

Planted specimens are sprinkled with humus and mulch (straw, needles, rotten leaves are suitable), which retains moisture. Water the bulbs between the rows, not directly on them. In dry summers, watering is carried out every two days, with the onset of cold weather no more than once a week to prevent the development of rot. After watering, if there is no mulch, the bed is slightly loosened to aerate the roots.

For growing in pots on a balcony or windowsill, low-growing varieties with medium-sized flowers are used that can withstand food in cramped conditions (Fig. 5). Tank dimensions: diameter and height - 20-25 cm. Fine drainage should be poured onto the bottom for aeration and removal of excess moisture. Planting material is prepared in the same way as for open ground. Corms are kept in a sunny place (maximum 20 days), dipped in a solution of potassium permanganate and laid out on a moistened basis for germination. Planting in pots is carried out in the first half of April (on a sunny southern window) or a week or two later (in the southeast or southwest of the apartment), that is, during the first or second spring month, you need to have time to prepare everything and start growing.

Rice. 5. Planting and growing gladioli in pots. This method can be used not only at home, but also in the garden. Pots, planters, urns are suitable as containers. When planting, try to evenly distribute the corms over the area.

In the greenhouse, gladioli are often grown for cutting, the average depth is 6 cm, the interval between specimens is 6 and 30 cm (in and between rows). Carry out regular watering, loosening and weeding from weeds. Top dressing: chicken manure is added in a ratio of 1 liter to 14 liters of water. If there is heating in the greenhouse, you can get the first flowering in the middle of spring, but you need to choose varieties that do not require strong illumination, forcing starts in April. In cold greenhouse structures, planting begins at a temperature of at least 12 ° C, otherwise there will be no growth and rooting (optimally 17-20 ° C). An important point in growing is the formation of a third leaf, which is already visible visually. This is the beginning of the development of flower buds, violation of the regimen will lead to poor quality flowers.

Growing gladioli in winter is naturally called forcing, since it is necessary to create conditions for the formation of flower stalks in a period unusual for vegetative activity. Procedure:

Selection of large bulbs.
Cleaning specimens from integumentary scales.
Monthly exposure of planting material at 25-30 ° C with a humidity of 80% (this is a heat treatment), while overgrowing root tubercles and sprouts (maximum 1-2 mm and 0.5-0.8 cm, respectively) should not be allowed.
Treatment in a disinfectant solution, for example, foundationazole (0.3%).
Landing in December-February. The container for each specimen should be 10 by 20 cm in diameter, 10-12 cm deep.
Applying peat mulch on top of the soil.
Abundant watering.
The initial temperature of cultivation is 13-15°С, after the beginning of the formation of the 4th-6th leaves - 16-18°С, then - 18-20°С.
During the formation of the third leaf, top dressing with nitrogen (urea: 30 g / sq. M) and potassium (potassium phosphate: 20 g / sq. M) is needed.
Flower formation and cutting, then top dressing with potassium phosphate (50 g / sq. M).
Digging up specimens is carried out after 50-60 days, then cleaning, drying and planting in open ground so that the bulb can increase its volume.

The difficulties of planting in winter lie in the need to maintain daylight hours of 14-16 hours. In the presence of artificial lighting, planting begins from the end of December in order to get flowers in early April. If the procedure for moving into the ground begins in January or February, then flowering should be expected at the end of April or May.

Tip #2. Early and mid-early varieties are suitable for growing in winter, for example, Incosens, Oscar, Pink, Prospector, Red Majesty, Fiesta.

Briefly about growing methods

Peat tablets are used to propagate valuable, liked or new varieties of gladioli. With this method you can:

Extend the growing season.
Propagate a baby of medium size (a tablet diameter of only 2 cm is required).
Place a large number of copies in compact conditions (up to 20 in one pallet).

First, the tablets should be saturated with water (swell), the depth of the baby is 1.5-2 cm, the specimens are placed in a tray and water is added all the time, drying should not be allowed. Seedlings should be placed in open ground when the sprouts reach 10-15 cm.

Growing in pots is relevant if there is no garden plot or if you want to decorate the balcony with flowers. The stem length of the selected varieties should vary between 30-50 cm, the volume of the container should be 15 liters, and the height should be 50 cm.

Growing gladioli in the garden gives you more room to experiment with varieties and compositions. Plants can be placed near the house and in the flower bed with the formation of tiers of the height of the peduncle.

The best regions for growing gladiolus

The most important thing for growing gladiolus is the consistency of the soil, that is, this plant, like other bulbous plants, feels best on sandy and light loamy soils. At the same time, the plant develops as much as possible on structured chernozems. Thus, the chernozem zone, in which supesi are also present, is perfect for growing gladioli, but in the southern regions, midday shelter of plants from the scorching sun is required. The middle zone of the chernozem zone combines the most favorable conditions, although the varietal diversity casts doubt on the 100% reality of this conclusion. The main thing is to observe the planting dates in different regions, choose the right place and, if necessary, improve the soil.

The use of gladioli in landscape design

Gladioli are tall plants, so they are placed in the second or third row in the flower bed. The effect is achieved with a tight fit to each other, while it is better to use small-flowered and medium-flowered varieties of different shades. Some rules for use in landscape design:

A good option is a smooth transition of shades.
Low-growing varieties are great for decorating the edges of paths with a narrow strip or around the perimeter of the lawn.
Tall dahlias do not look good with gladioli due to the competition in the brightness of the colors.
Next to the gladioli, it is better to use decorative annuals that will not interfere with the autumn digging of the bulbs.
Many two-color varieties next to each other look too colorful.
A solid background will emphasize the beauty of the palette.
Large-flowered varieties will overshadow those with small flowers (make them invisible).

Soil preparation for planting gladioli

Gladiolus is not able to develop well if the soil acidity regime is violated, the optimal pH is 6.5-6.8 (slightly acidic). If the soil is acidic, then the tips of the leaves of the plant will wither, and the buds will not open for a long time, while the sepals will have a burnt appearance.

High acidity of the soil increases the likelihood of Fusarium, an unpleasant disease of gladioli. The problem can be eliminated by adding lime, chalk or dolomite flour (approximately 0.2 kg per sq. M, the final dosage depends on pH). In the garden, you can improve the soil gradually by adding eggshells.

An elevated pH indicates alkalization of the soil, which leads to growth retardation and the development of chlorosis due to a lack of iron (the synthesis of chlorophyll depends on it), which goes into a form that is not absorbed by the roots.

In autumn, it is necessary to add humus and lime with digging a layer of 25-30 cm. Fresh manure cannot be used due to deterioration in the storage of bulbs and excessive growth of green mass, as well as a decrease in the number of flowers. In the spring, before planting, the beds are dug up, harrowed and leveled, but left to rise. As a fertilizer, you can add ammonium nitrate (15-20 g per sq. M) and potassium sulfate (25-30 g per sq. M). When planting, it will not be superfluous to add wood ash (40-60 g per linear meter).

Growing Gladiolus: gardeners' mistakes

The most common mistake when growing gladiolus is to wait for the inflorescence to fully bloom. Peduncles are best cut at the stage of two or three blossoming lower flowers (Fig. 6) leaving 5-6 leaves on the plant. Such a timely cut will lead to the accumulation of nutrients in the bulb and enlargement of its size, otherwise there will be spending on the development of the aerial part.

Rice. 6. Gladiolus, ready for cutting. If you plan to leave the peduncle to comply with landscape design, then you need to be prepared for the formation of not the highest quality bulb.

Complete cutting of flower stalks without leaving leaves will lead to the formation of a poorly developed replacement bulb, a certain outflow of nutrients to the aerial part is necessary.

Novice flower growers may choose the wrong planting material, in particular, purchase old and small corms or varieties that are not adapted to climatic conditions (when buying from abroad).

The wrong choice of landing site leads to various consequences, for example, in the same place every season there will be a constant deterioration in the flowering of gladioli. Planting in one place adult and young corms will lead to inhibition of the development of the latter.

No gardener will remain indifferent to the flowering of these beautiful flowers. A wide variety of varieties of this plant have been bred. They can be pale white or almost black. Gladiolus will be a wonderful decoration of the flower garden. But in order for them to bloom, you will need to make an effort.

And the flowering time depends on a large number of factors:

climatic conditions;
characteristics of the variety;
landing time.

Bulb storage conditions

In order for plants to develop well and not get sick, a lot depends on the conditions of their storage. They are kept in a dry, cool place in the apartment, it is possible in a box, someone keeps it in the cellar. About a month in advance, the bulbs must be prepared for planting. Remove from storage, inspect for damage. If you notice something, you need to cut off the dried part with a sharp knife and process it with brilliant green. All bulbs for a few minutes can be placed in a solution of potassium permanganate. Then dry and place on the windowsill for vernalization. This will speed up flowering.

Place to land

For gladioli, a sunny and ventilated place is suitable, preferably on the east side, because they definitely need the sun in the morning. We prepare the soil in advance: it should be light and nutritious. It’s good if garlic, cucumbers, tomatoes and beans used to grow in this place. Gladioli are planted at a depth of at least 10 cm, especially adult bulbs and about 5 cm for children.

In order to determine the age of the bulbs, you need to pay attention to their size, and most importantly to the diameter of the bottom: the wider it is, the older the plant.

Gladiolus develop well if the bulbs are in a layer of sand. This creates convenience when digging them out in the fall. The bulbs need to be dried well, remove the scales, being careful not to damage the kidneys. To remove scales in children, they are placed for a while in a weak solution of baking soda, then they are easily removed.

planting time for gladiolus

The most suitable time for planting bulbs is considered mid-April and early May. We need a period when frosts pass. The sooner the bulbs are planted, the faster they will bloom. You can stretch the flowering for the whole summer, if you plant one part of the bulbs in mid-April, the other at the end, the third batch in May. They usually bloom in the third month after planting. Conventionally, according to varieties, they are divided into early, late and medium.

With such a two-line tape planting, 27 - 35 large corms can be placed per square meter. When growing small corms per square meter, they are placed up to 45 pieces.

This contributes to the destruction of pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases.

Gladiolus - planting and care

Arbitrary increase in doses of trace elements leads to inhibition of plants or even death.

Old 4 - 5-year-old corms are low-quality planting material, since most of the plants developing from them become ill when hot, dry weather sets in in the summer months and during rainy cold weather in autumn.

Gladiolus in all regions is cultivated as

Difficulties in caring for gladioli are only in their storage in winter, but in summer they will thank you with wonderful flowering from July to September.

Soak the prepared planting material for a day in a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 10 l of water) for nutrition and disinfection.

You can plant gladioli in the soil when the soil at a depth of 8-12 cm warms up to 8-10ºС. In the Kuban, this is approximately the end of March-beginning of April, and in the middle lane - the last decade of April-beginning of May. I usually focus on the timing of planting potatoes, as soon as I planted it, you can start planting gladioli.

How to grow gladioli - such majestic, proud flowers? Every year they bloom in the middle of summer, just in time for my birthday. Maybe that's why I love them so much. Everyone who breeds these flowers has his own secrets. Someone assures that the most important thing is the selection of bulbs, someone - that it's a matter of feeding. All are right. I had negative and positive moments, so let me give some advice to flower growers on caring for these beautiful flowers.

In the steppe regions, the republics of Central Asia, and even in the regions of Eastern and Western Siberia, where the intensity of sunshine is high already from the second half of May and dry winds blow at this time,

Gladiolus - planting depth

In the conditions of the Central Black Earth zone, the latest planting dates

Plants in this case bloom in the second or third decade of September.

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Planting gladioli in the ground, care and planting dates | Tips for gardeners

Depending on the purpose of processing, the temperature is maintained within the following limits (in ° C): 52; 55 and 57.

For accelerated growth and development of corms in order to obtain early flowering

It is better to clean corms before planting from dry integumentary scales.

Preparation of gladiolus tubers before planting in the ground

annual

Gladioli are very moisture-loving, prefer abundant watering. Gladioli are photophilous (in the shade, the stems are thin and long, and the flowers are small). Gladioli are thermophilic (fear of spring frosts). Gladioli are responsive to fertile soil

After cleaning and checking, small tubers (babies) soak in the same solution, and then put them on a damp burlap and cover with the same piece of burlap on top.

How deep are gladiolus corms planted? It depends on the soil. If the soil is light sandy, then to a depth of 15 cm, if it is heavy, then the planting depth is not so great. In general, be guided by the diameter of the bulb - the depth of planting of the gladiolus corm is equal to three times the diameter. That is, everything bulbs and children cannot be planted at the same depth. Shallowly planted corms, after germination and ejection of the flower arrow, will bend, fall to the ground, and it will not be possible to lift them without the risk of breaking the entire shoot.

A very important point in answering the question of how to grow gladioli, as I have already seen, is the choice of a place for gladioli. It is from him that the size and number of flowers, as well as the time and duration of flowering, will depend. Of course, the landing site will also greatly affect the quality of planting material for the next season.

Corms are planted more deeply.

Flowers from the first light matinees are protected by smoke or sprinkling.

Exposure from 20 to 30 minutes

14 - 20 days before planting, preparations for germination begin (required in a bright room).

Planting gladioli in the ground, planting dates.

This allows you to view all the planted material in more detail and discard the affected by diseases.

Culture with the obligatory digging of corms in the autumn, followed by their drying, cleaning, sorting and storage until planting.

We choose a sunny and open place for planting gladioli. We water often and plentifully, but not to the point of standing puddles. Without access to air, the bulbs "suffocate" and the gladioli die. Also, a place should be chosen away from other tuberous crops and root crops, such as potatoes, for example, because of the danger of wireworm damage. Before planting, clean the gladiolus bulbs from scales. Dried, shriveled or moldy tubers are discarded without regret.

It must be moistened before planting. Such processing will allow you to plant small children with a developed root system.

I wish you to grow beautiful, tall, unique gladioli! Generous flowering to your gladioli!

Gladiolus Care

Allocate a place under the sun for gladioli, literally. Remember that if the plant is in the shade on the east side, then the flowering time will be delayed by 15-20 days, and if the shade is on the south side, then you may not wait for the flowers at all.

Planting at a depth of less than 10 cm, regardless of the mechanical composition of the soil, is not recommended here.

Autumn chores

For flowering at the latest, corms of early and medium varieties are used, which are stored until planting in a cool place (not higher than 12 ° C), and in the absence of such a room - in the refrigerator.

Gladiolus planted in early July not only do not have time to bloom, but also form a medium-sized weakened corm that will die in the first months of storage.

After heating, the corms are quickly cooled in running cold water.

The corms are cleaned of dry scales and immersed in a slightly diluted solution (0.02%) of potassium permanganate for 12 - 14 hours.

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rules for growing gladioli |

For prophylactic purposes against fungal and bacterial diseases, corms are treated with a 0.7% solution of manganese dioxide for 25 minutes, after which they are thoroughly washed with water and dried.

The need for digging is dictated by the lack of winter-hardy forms, corms die when the soil freezes deep.

To speed up the flowering of gladioli by 1-2 weeks, we put the bulbs for germination three weeks before planting, laying them out in any container, in one layer, in the light. We do not spray them during this period and do not water them, since the increased humidity of the air leads to the active growth of the root system, but we do not need it.

Terms of planting gladioli.

Gladiolus need a lighted place, well protected from the wind, which can break tall stems. It is better to prepare the place in the fall by digging up the soil, carefully removing weed rhizomes and fertilizing.

Planting gladioli.

I welcome you friends on the site advice to gardeners. Gladiolus is loved by many flower growers for its unpretentious care and extraordinary beauty. Gladiolus is a perennial corm plant.

If you have a problem area, in terms of illumination, then you can make high beds for planting gladioli. Or make a bulk flower bed, and plant gladioli on its top.

Large corms are usually planted 2 to 3 cm deeper than medium ones. Varieties that develop a powerful inflorescence with a large number of buds should also be planted deeper.

Digging up gladiolus bulbs.

Under the conditions of the Moscow region, when planted in April on light soils, plants in the phenophase of 1 - 2 leaves can sometimes fall under the snow, which disappears after 2 - 3 days, and the plants continue to develop normally.

Storage of gladiolus bulbs.

Optimal planting time in open ground in the southern regions of our country

Often, large corms of early varieties are transferred to a warm room with a temperature of 32 - 34 ° C two weeks before planting.

Reproduction of gladioli by buds (or babies).

The solution should be warm (35 - 40 ° C).

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Gladiolus - preparation and planting of bulbs

Treatment of corms immediately before planting with microelements not only improves the nutrition of developing plants, but also accelerates flowering by 10-12 days and increases disease resistance.

The corm (bulbs) of gladiolus can be used to produce flowers within 3-4 years, starting from the transition to annual flowering. We plant gladioli in open ground when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to + 10 ° C, usually this is the second half of April - beginning of May. Plant a baby of gladioli at the same time.If, however, it was not possible to dig it up in the fall, then this can be done in the spring a few days before planting flowers, so that the soil becomes compacted.

Its name is translated from Latin as "sword". At the time of flowering gladiolus is very beautiful. It has a tall stem, framed by long leaves, decorated with flowers almost along its entire length.

If the location of the area allocated for gladioli was on the north or west side, then try to protect them from cold winds at least shrubs or just tall plants.

Otherwise, in windy weather, even in the phenophase of opening 2-3 flowers on the inflorescence, they lie down and the plants require a mandatory garter.

Only a prolonged drop in air temperature to - 3 ° C (or - 2 ° C with a strong north wind) damages crops and delays the subsequent development of plants.

(Republics of Central Asia and Transcaucasia, the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus, Moldova, southern Ukraine, Crimea, Krasnodar and Stavropol Territories) They are placed in light boxes in two layers with the bottom down so that the main buds of the corms are not covered by the corms located above.

Processing time with microelements 12 - 14 hours

Subsequently, its gradual aging occurs, often leading to complete degeneration and loss of the ability of the kidneys to germinate.

When planting, the distance between the bulbs should be at least 15-20 cm between large bulbs and about 10 cm between small ones).

Gladioli are planted in soil warmed up to 10 degrees, planting dates from late April to mid-May. If planted too early, it can delay the development of plants. But the late planting of gladioli in the ground negatively affects the flowers. Planting in damp soil leads to rotting of the tuber.

Thanks to breeders, the number of varieties is increasing every year. There are new colors and shades for every taste. But caring for flowers, with rare exceptions, is the same.

It is best to grow gladiolus on loamy or light sandy loamy soils. On our Kuban heavy black soil, they can grow low. But there is a way out! Add sand, compost to the holes before planting, that is, make the soil lighter. If you have the same soil as mine (heavy black soil), then add sand over the bulb, and only then the ground.

A deeper planting helps the plants maintain an upright position during the flowering period, but at the same time postpones the flowering period by several days, reduces the yield of tuber buds, and contributes to more severe damage (in areas with a cool, rainy autumn) by fungal and bacterial diseases.

Gladiolus leaves, once exposed to a temperature of -3 ° C, remain green until the end of the growing season, but active photosynthetic processes no longer occur in them.

March 15 - April 15.

The relative humidity in such a room is maintained within 55 - 60% so that the roots do not start growing.

3 g of copper sulfate, 0.3 g of cobalt nitrate, 2 g of boric acid per 10 liters of solution.

The doses of trace elements for the treatment of planting material are as follows (in g per 10 liters of water):

The most valuable as planting material are large corms that have not yet formed flowers.

Depending on the size of the bulb, we plant at a depth of 10-15 cm. With such a deep planting, the plants are more stable, do not bend or fall during strong winds and watering. Shallow planted bulbs grow smaller. At the bottom of the groove or hole, before planting, we add humus or compost or peat (what is at hand), lay out the bulbs, water them, dust them with ash, and then cover them with earth.

The depth of planting directly depends on the size of the corms. Large ones are planted at a depth of 10 cm, medium ones - 5-7 cm, and small children are planted at a depth of 2-3 cm. At the same time, consider the composition of the soil. It is not necessary to plant deeply in clay soil, but in sandy soil, increase the depth by a centimeter.

Since autumn, gladiolus corms are dug out of the ground and stored during the winter months. And with the advent of spring, they must be obtained in advance three weeks before landing in the ground and sorted by size, culling rotten and diseased specimens.

I would also advise adding nitrophoska to the wells before planting the bulbs (5-7 granules for each). Mix the earth at the bottom of the holes well so that the nitrophoska granules are 3-4 cm below the bottom of the corms.

In areas where the spring is longer and cooler, the supply of soil with moisture is quite high, and their warming up is slow at first, they resort to shallow planting, to a depth of 3-4 cm. As a rule, a single-line or two-line tape planting scheme is used gladiolus.

The latest planting date in the southern zone to extend the flowering period and obtain a cut without the use of film shelters is July 15.

Plants developing from corms treated in this way bloom 12 to 14 days earlier.

When grown on Boric acid - 3,

Such corms are called After germination, agricultural technology comes down to systematic watering, timely loosening of the soil and removal of weeds. Especially often it is necessary to weed the baby, which in the first month after germination has not yet gained strength. In hot and dry summers, we water gladioli often and abundantly. With a lack of moisture, plants begin to grow more slowly, and many varieties, such as those with corrugated flowers, refuse to bloom. The need for watering increases in the budding and flowering phase. Moisture is better preserved if the beds are mulched with sawdust or peat. During the summer season, until the moment of flowering, we do not forget about top dressing, we water every two weeks with complex fertilizer. Good results, in our opinion, are given by ROST fertilizer (concentrate or universal). This fertilizer is based on potassium humate. Compared to conventional organo-mineral fertilizers, ROST contains a high concentration of potassium humate, NPK, microelements, and has fungicidal activity. The corms are planted in grooves, which must be shed with water with chicken manure dissolved in it. The row spacing is up to 60 cm, and the spacing between tubers is from 5 to 15 cm in accordance with their size.

Large bulbs are best planted separately so that strong plants do not subsequently obscure smaller ones and do not deprive them of nutrients from the soil. When sorting, remove all dry scales, being careful not to damage the body of the bulb and young sprouts.

Remember what you grew last year in the place chosen for gladioli. If legumes - very good! Consider that you will not have a malicious enemy - a wireworm.

With the growth of plants and the development of the first leaves, the plants are 2-3 times piled up.

For a single line fit, the distance between the lines can be 40 or 70 cm.

Film shelters with short-term air heating during a drop in temperature at night and cold late autumn days make it possible to obtain high-quality gladiolus inflorescences in November.

At 30°C, the duration of treatment should be extended by two weeks.

light sandy soils

Potassium permanganate - 2,

Juvenile.

The excavation date is the second half of September. After digging, we shake off the ground and dry it in the sun until the end of the day.

Further care for gladioli consists in regular loosening of the soil, thorough weeding from weeds, and good watering. Learn how to properly water flowers here. Of the pests, gladioli are annoyed by slugs that eat leaves and flowers. To combat them, it is enough to spread wet boards in a flower bed with gladioli.

Cleaning is necessary in order to:

Now let's move on to planting gladioli. Corms must be separated from dry scales 2-3 weeks before the intended planting. And remove the scales from the children immediately before planting.

This allows the root system to develop in a warmer and more airy soil layer, which accelerates the growth and development of plants.

The distance between plants in a row, respectively, is 8 - 10 or 5 - 7 cm.

In France, positive results have been obtained when corms are exposed to 28°C before planting. for

When processing the bulbs, boric acid 2 g, magnesium sulfate 3g are added. and aluminum sulfate 1.5 - 2 g.

copper sulphate - 3,

Their optimal size should be 3.5 - 4.5 cm in diameter.

Immediately after digging, cut off the entire stem from the bulbs, leaving no stumps. We do not separate the old dried bulb with roots immediately, but after two weeks of drying, so as not to injure new bulbs. Slugs will crawl under them, and you can collect them without harming the plants. It is desirable to sprinkle the earth around the plants with ash, it is both a fertilizer for flowers and protection against putrefactive bacteria. - accelerate the germination of flowers by almost a week;

Planting material can and should be disinfected, as well as treated with growth stimulants. You can disinfect with improvised materials, for example, garlic infusion (pass 100 g of garlic through a meat grinder, pour 3 liters of water), in which the corms of gladioli and children are kept for 2 hours. For the same purposes, you can use a good pink solution of potassium permanganate - soak for half an hour. You can withstand gladiolus corms in a solution of Maxim, Hom preparations (see the dosage on the package).

On light sandy soils, large corms are planted to a depth of 12 - 15 cm; on cultivated loams of the Non-Chernozem Zone, the planting depth should not exceed 7 cm.

In the first case, up to 27 - 30 large corms are planted per square meter. Small corms for growing are placed up to 45 pcs.

A later planting does not allow plants to form and develop full-fledged inflorescences due to a sharp reduction in daylight hours.

Gladiolus - planting bulbs After that, the corms are laid out in 2 layers (buds up) in boxes or on racks in the greenhouse. The temperature is maintained within 25 - 28 ° C. Cobalt nitrate - 0.8 - 1,

They have a round-cylindrical shape, end with a terminal bud and do not have traces of a dead peduncle. You need to dry the gladiolus bulbs in a well-ventilated place, you can in the sun, scattering the corms in one layer or in a low box. It is better to store them in open boxes or drawers, in a small layer (layer height no more than 10 cm, at a temperature of +1 ... + 8 ° C, in a dry place. In winter, you can store them on the floor near the balcony door in the apartment.

In late autumn, after the gladioli have faded, it is necessary to dig them out of the ground, thoroughly clean them from the ground and roots, separate the children from the bulbs, and dry them well. Children and corms are stored separately.

- avoid getting into the soil of harmful bacteria and pests that could safely overwinter in scales;

From growth stimulants, you can use heteroauxin (Kornevin), Epin, others - they will help form a strong root system.

you Galimax

With a two-line planting, the distance between the tapes is 70 cm, between the lines in the tape is 15 cm, between plants in a row is 8 - 10 cm.

In the northern part of Ukraine, the Central Black Earth zone, Belarus, the northwestern regions of the European part of the USSR, the Urals, the eastern and western regions of Siberia, the optimal landing time

Corms (bulbs) should be planted only in well-cultivated and sufficiently warmed (at least 10 ° C at a depth of 10 cm) soil.

If corms germinate for 3-4 days, then the intensity of illumination of the room does not matter (dark rooms can also be used); when the root tubercles swell, the corms are planted.

Aluminum molybdate - 1 - 1.5, magnesium sulfate - 2.5,

Of these, the most powerful healthy plants with a large inflorescence develop.

Babies are formed at the end of summer, at the base of an adult bulb and are the reproductive organs of gladioli. The sizes of children of gladioli can be from 1 to 20 mm. Usually 20-50 children are formed on one plant. But there are varieties of gladioli, the corms of which give more than 100 children. The number of children depends on the variety, on the age of the adult bulb, on the depth of its planting, on agricultural technology and nutrition during the growth period. For reproduction of gladioli, it is better to choose large children, since you can get a flowering plant from them in the first year. From small children, plants develop that bloom a year later. Therefore, we plant large and small children separately. 2-3 weeks before planting, we get our children from storage. We select large ones - with a diameter of 5 mm. Also keep in mind that from a baby with three root tubercles (tubercles from which roots will grow) a more powerful plant grows than from a larger baby (from 10 mm), but with one root tubercle. Therefore, we select for planting those children who have several root tubercles, even if they are slightly smaller. The planting time of such children is the same as the planting time of adult bulbs, at a soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm - 10 degrees. We plant to a depth of 5-10 cm with a distance of 5-7 cm between nodules, water abundantly. Then crush with ash and, if possible, mulch with humus or compost. Before the emergence of seedlings, it is advisable to cover the beds with planted children with plastic wrap. Then the seedlings will be faster and more friendly. On average, shoots of gladiolus babies appear 2-3 weeks after planting; under a film cover - earlier. We do top dressing in the same way as for adult gladioli. With good care, children of gladioli throw out flower arrows, but it is better to break them out, preventing flowering. Then more nutrients will be deposited in the bulbs, they will be larger and more complete the next year. They are dried in the same way as adult bulbs, in bulk in boxes or boxes.

Gladiolus - the desired flowers in the garden. Even despite the hassle with the bulbs, the beauty of luxurious buds is worth it to tinker with them and plant them on time. Before planting, the bulbs are cleaned and treated for pests. It is necessary not only to choose the right time for planting, but also to properly prepare the soil - fertilize and warm. By carrying out timely top dressing, garter and spraying, you will get lush gladiolus flowers that will delight both summer and autumn. With proper care, varieties can last for several decades, and even be inherited.

Preparing gladioli for planting

Gladiolus is taken out about a month before planting, peeled, the condition is assessed: are there any sick or affected by pests. I keep gladioli in the apartment: I put each variety in a separate newspaper bag (envelope) or a fabric bag, sign it and put it in a cardboard box.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a cellar, because only there you can perfectly preserve the bulbs. The percentage of rejects during home storage is small, however, it happens that damaged planting material is culled or treated.

_______________________________________________________________________

It is more convenient to prepare gladioli bulbs for planting in the country - there are the most suitable conditions: it is still cool in the house (there will be no minus), but it is already light enough.

Photo: gladiolus bulbs germinated in the light

Treatment of gladiolus bulbs before planting

First, the bulbs must be cleaned. In early April, I take out the gladioli to the light and remove last year's "clothes" from them, process them from pests and leave them in the light until planting. Special care is the affected and diseased bulbs. They need to be dropped off as soon as possible.

When to get gladiolus bulbs for germination?

If stored in an ordinary apartment, gladioli begin to wake up from mid-February. I don’t pay attention to this fact and I’m not in a hurry to pull out the bulbs into the light, otherwise by the time of planting their shoots will be too long.

In the first days of April, I take out the gladiolus bulbs, peel them, examine them and lay them out in the light. It is important at this time to detect damaged bulbs and try to save them.

How to properly clean gladiolus bulbs?

To prepare the gladiolus bulbs for germination, we first peel them. Removing the husk, we check the condition of the bulb and accelerate germination, and hence flowering. The husk must be removed carefully so as not to damage the sprouts, removing the husk from the center of the cut stem.

We take the onion and begin to peel the edges of the husk in the place where last year's stem was.
We clean only from the beginning of the sprout, from the middle (top) of the bulb.

How to properly arrange gladioli for germination?

We put the peeled bulbs in the light so that the stems and roots grow.

I put the bulbs in front of the window (i.e., the light falls on only one side).
Usually, in gladioli, the sprouts are directed in one direction. So, in front of the window, they need to be placed on the opposite side so that the sprout reaches for the light and becomes absolutely straight.
Turn the bulbs from time to time

How do I get the bulbs for sprouting and cook them: tips (video)

How to process gladiolus bulbs?

The second important stage is the treatment with an insecticide from pests. While peeled bulbs are waiting for planting, they can become prey for thrips. To prevent this from happening, I dust them with karbofos powder. In this state, the bulbs will lie for another month before planting.

I treat the peeled bulbs from pests with any preparation for thrips (karbofos, actellik).
After 3-4 days, I spray with a solution of a growth stimulator.
7-10 days before planting, I treat fungal diseases with a Bordeaux mixture or a solution of copper sulfate, even better with both at intervals.
When planting, I repeat the treatments for pests (karbofos, actellik) and diseases (potassium permanganate)

How to save damaged bulbs?

If the bulbs are slightly damaged, they can be cut out like "eyes" on potatoes. But only on the condition that you got the glaolus out of storage early, back in March. Place the cuts powdered with ash or treated with green paint.

Bulbs affected bacterial scab (black spots can be seen on the surface, which corrode the husk through and through and penetrate into the bulb)
Bulbs, damaged thrips (overdried, matte, with a coating that remains on the hands). If pests are found on the bulbs, they can be sprayed with insecticides (karbofos, Intavir, Aktellik).

Bulbs with minor damage are planted in the ground as early as possible, on April 20. To do this, you need to prepare a bed for them in advance: install arcs and cover with a film so that the earth warms up.

If large damaged areas are visible on the bulbs, you can try to cure them, but the result will be "for good luck". If you find bulbs heavily affected by diseases and pests, it is better to postpone them.

What bulbs can be cured?

Examine the bottom: if it is clean with the beginnings of roots, there is a chance for salvation.

If the bottom is clean, unaffected, and the sprouts have hatched powerful and strong, then we can hope that a replacement bulb will form.
To do this, damaged bulbs should be planted in the ground as soon as possible so that they begin to receive nutrition and form a new replacement bulb.

At the same time, damaged bulbs are best stored until planting and planted separately from other gladioli so that the disease does not spread.

With a sharp knife (without teeth) I cut out the affected area like "eyes" on potatoes.
I dry with a cotton swab.
Cover the cut: either with brilliant green or powder with ash

If the bottom has darkened, no roots are visible - nothing can be done with such an onion, it must be thrown away.

How I germinate bulbs in the country in mid-April (video)

Planting gladioli in spring in open ground

Planting should be taken seriously: choose planting dates, prepare the soil and bulbs for planting. It's so nice when on September 1, children rush to school with an armful of festive gladioli from our garden.

When planting gladioli in the spring in open ground, the main thing is to warm up the soil and apply fertilizer to nourish the gladioli during the growing season. I place gladioli on the beds - it's more convenient for me to care for the flowers.

Terms of planting gladioli

Gladiolus have varieties of early, medium and late flowering periods. In the conditions of the Moscow region, it is undesirable to acquire and plant late-flowering varieties, they do not have time to open up before frost.

I plant gladioli at intervals of 7-10 days:

April 20 (affected bulbs),
in the end of April,
on the May holidays on May 8-10,
in the second half of May, numbers 15-20.

Terms of planting gladioli in the suburbs

In the Moscow region, gladioli are planted from the end of April to May 15-20. Dates can change significantly depending on the weather. Everything will depend on the condition and temperature of the soil. To plant the bulbs early, you need to prepare the bed in advance, warm the soil.

In the conditions of the Moscow region, the period of autumn rains may begin as early as mid-September, which means that there will be excessive dampness, which contributes to the appearance of fungal diseases. Fungal diseases are the main enemies when storing gladiolus bulbs.

Photo: blooming gradioli in my garden in the northern suburbs

When to plant gladiolus to bloom by September 1?

Sometimes gardeners want gladioli to bloom exactly by September 1, and ask how to achieve this. To do this, you need to know what flowering period a particular variety belongs to and have more than 30 bulbs at your disposal.

It rarely happens to me that all gladioli bloom with luxurious buds exactly by September 1st. It is difficult to guess the exact dates, because the period and duration of flowering of gladioli depends on weather conditions. With a steady heat, they will fade in August, and with a cold and cloudy summer, they will not have time to fade before frost.

If the variety is early, it is planted in mid-May,
If late - at the end of April.

Photo: luxurious bouquets are obtained from gladioli by September 1

Soil preparation for planting gladioli

In spring, it only seems that the earth is warm from above, but literally at a depth of 10 cm from the surface it blows cold. Therefore, before planting the bulbs, the soil must be prepared: warm and fertilize.

Warming up the beds

To properly warm the soil before planting gladioli:

I dig a bed on a spade bayonet,
I put arcs and cover with a film,
first I cover the ground with a film, and then I throw it over the arcs.

In the conditions of the Moscow region, I remove the film from the ground in a week. I keep the arcs on the beds with gladioli until the end of May, in order to promptly cover the plants if there is a threat of return frosts.

garden fertilizer

On a bed measuring 5 by 1 m I add:

2 buckets of compost
2 tbsp. ash,
1 st. bone meal
2 tbsp. l. superphosphate and the same amount of complex mineral fertilizer.

Planting scheme for gladioli

I plant gladioli according to the scheme:

First, I make transverse grooves every 20 cm, which will provide additional heating of the earth.
A week later, I plant the bulbs in the prepared grooves and cover them with warm earth.
The planting depth of the bulbs should be equal to 3 times the diameter of each bulb, about 15 cm.

Planting pattern between rows - 15-20 cm, between elbows at least 5 cm.

Planting gladiolus babies

Before planting especially valuable varieties and those that need to be propagated with the help of children, the bulbs are sorted.

Children are provided with a sign and planted at a depth of approx. 1.5 cm.
It is advisable to plant children separately if you want to propagate a certain variety.
They are pre-cleaned of the husk, otherwise the sprouts will not be able to break through it.
In dry weather, planted gladiolus babies are watered every day until sprouts appear.

Photo: planting gladiolus bulbs in the grooves

Rules for planting gladioli

I add complex mineral fertilizer and horse manure to the wells. The main thing is that the bulb does not touch fertilizers, and horse manure will not harm it.
Before planting, the bulbs (if there are few of them) can be treated for diseases with a solution of potassium permanganate and karbofos from pests. It is more convenient for me to spray the bulbs when they lie in the hole when planting - it turns out faster. You can also use growth promoters.
As soon as the bulbs dry after processing, I cover them with earth.
After planting, I leave the film on the arcs so that heat and humidity remain in the flower bed with gladioli.

How to place gladioli when planting

To make a flowerbed with gladioli look spectacular, the bulbs are placed in groups (3-4 rows) by color during planting: separately light and dark tones.

Also, when placing, you need to take into account the strength of the growth of varieties so that they do not obscure each other. For example, I plant tall varieties on the north side of the flower bed, and on the south - short ones.

How to plant gladioli (video)

Care for gladioli in the open field

Gladiolus love good care. For lush flowering and plant health, it is imperative to take care of them: spend 3 top dressing per season, mulch, tie up and treat with insecticidal preparations.

Top dressing of gladioli

Before any top dressing, be sure to thoroughly water the ground so as not to burn the roots.

At the end of the third decade of May, I spend the first feeding infusion of herbs in a ratio of 1/10.
After 2 weeks, I repeat the top dressing: I breed in water complex mineral fertilizer .
At the end of July, the third top dressing - ash extract .

It happens that after heavy rains or heavy watering, the bulbs are exposed, then I spend mulching with compost.

Gladiolus garter

Gladiolus need a timely garter.

As soon as the bud of the plant extends, it is necessary to tie up the gladiolus.
As the peduncle blooms, I repeat this operation several times, otherwise after the rain all the flower arrows will be broken.

Photo: powerful gladiolus peduncles must be tied up

How to cut gladioli

Some gladiolus bulbs have several shoots, respectively, give up to 3-4 peduncles per season.

I try to cut off the flower stalks when the flowers have opened to the middle of the spike, to stimulate the flowering of the next arrow and prevent the bulb from depleting.
Of course, I do not allow gladioli to completely fade in the bud. This technique allows you to get new healthy bulbs, ready for luxurious flowering next season.
If frosts are expected, and some of the gladioli are still in buds, then I cut them off and put them in buckets in the house. Only those peduncles will not bloom, the buds on which have not yet “burst”. Such buds withstand frosts at -1 ° C.

Treatment of gladioli from thrips

In order to prevent thrips, which love to feast on gladiolus buds, and by autumn they also move to the bulb, I treat the plants with drugs such as Aktara, Karbofos and Aktellik.

I carry out the first treatment when a flower arrow appears, and then with an interval of 10 days.
It is important to alternate the preparations so that the pests do not get used to it.
Spraying is carried out either in the morning or in the evening, during the day the pests hide.

They love gladiolus flowers and caterpillars, the same ones that are found on cabbage - I collect them by hand.

Growing gladioli in open ground is considered quite simple, but still carried out according to certain rules. In order for the plants to bloom for a long time and profusely, you need to choose the right site for planting them, as well as select and process the bulbs.

When to plant gladioli in the open field in spring and how to do it right - read this article.

How to plant a gladiolus

According to their biological characteristics, gladioli require flower growers to comply with certain growing rules. The site is selected in accordance with the requirements of the plant, as it is a light and heat-loving flower.

Planting and caring for gladioli is carried out as follows(picture 1):

Plot preferred with well-drained, light-colored soil and without drafts. In order for growth and flowering time not to slow down, it is better to choose the location of the area in the northern part. It is also not allowed to plant a flower in an area with a high level of groundwater. It is advisable to choose a flat area or with a slight slope to the south to remove excess water, and in the southern regions it is permissible to darken the area at noon.
Soil acidity is an important ingredient in cultivation. On such soils, the flower does not open well, darkens and fades, it develops fusarium. A slightly acidic pH of 6.5 to 6.8 is considered the most optimal indicator. The plant turns yellow if the soil is alkaline, since the iron content does not dissolve in it and slows down the formation of chlorophyll in the leaves. In order to neutralize the acidity of the soil when digging, it is recommended to add dolomite flour or eggshells at the rate of 150-200 grams per square meter.
The best soil considered loam. To create such a soil structure, sand is added to heavy loam, and if the soil is sandy, clay is added to it with a small amount of rotted compost. When the site warms up well, it is dug up and the bulbs are planted.

A good planting site is considered to be places where vegetables and legumes used to grow, but it is not recommended to plant them in places where asters or root crops were previously planted.

If you have already decided on the landing site, then it is recommended to dig up its site since the fall and apply phosphorus and potash fertilizers.

Figure 1. Features of planting gladioli

Landing is carried out from the end of April to the middle of May. Bulbs must be properly placed in the soil. Large bulbs are buried in the soil by 10-15 cm, and small ones by 8-10 cm. Large bulbs are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each other, and for small ones this figure is only 7-8 cm.

Preparing the furrow for planting, you need to spill it with water and a solution of photosporin. At the bottom, it is necessary to pour a few centimeters of river sand and a layer of sphagnum moss. Next, lay out the bulbs and sprinkle them with soil. This method of planting and care will ensure rapid establishment and will retain moisture and nutrients at the roots.

Peculiarities

In order to succeed in growing gladioli, you need to learn a few important rules.

Key growing features include:(picture 2):

The plant is not grown in one place for more than two years and must be transplanted in the third year to another place.
When transplanting, choose a site with a different soil composition. If earlier the flowers grew on sandy loamy soil, after two years, transplant the bulbs into light alumina.
Flowers need to be adapted to your climate zone, as they don't like to go from warm to cool climates, or from dry to wet.
Large bulbs are planted separately, and not next to small ones, as they will deprive each other of nutrients.

It must be remembered that gladioli love the light and do not grow well in the shade. Only planting of early varieties in shaded areas is allowed, but in this case, their flowering period will come later.

Figure 2. Options for placing plants in a flower bed

To avoid the appearance of fungal diseases, the area must be ventilated. Foliar top dressing is also practiced, but on condition that gladioli grow in sand. In this case, the flower is simply sprayed with fertilizers.

In summer, they need to be watered abundantly once a week. But, if the weather is too hot, watering is carried out every evening, followed by loosening the soil.

Required Tools

Gladiolus always takes root and blooms beautifully where other cets take root with difficulty.

For planting and caring for it in the open field, you will need a standard set of garden tools: a shovel for digging, a chopper or hoe for loosening the soil, and watering equipment. It is also recommended to prepare boxes in advance in which the flower bulbs will be stored in the winter.

Landing Rules

Planting gladioli in the spring in the ground is carried out according to certain rules. Corms are peeled from densely covering scales 3 weeks before planting. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the sprouts.

Note: All diseased or partially affected bulbs are removed so as not to infect the entire flower garden with diseases.

After cleaning, the planting material is laid out in one layer with the sprouts up and stored in a warm and bright room until the shoots germinate. Before planting, it is recommended to immerse them in a solution of potassium permanganate or foundationol to protect against fungi and pests.

Fertilizer and top dressing

Preparation of gladioli for planting in the spring and their further cultivation involves feeding (Figure 3). In the early stages, mineral fertilizers are used, which are applied after the appearance of the first two leaves.

Figure 3. Types of fertilizers and dressings for flowers

Gladioli also need organic fertilizers. They are applied in liquid form for direct penetration to the roots. At the initial stage of growth, an infusion of bird droppings is used. Such top dressing is repeated every 2-3 weeks and stopped after August 15.

Note: The only organic matter that is not suitable for the plant is horse manure, both fresh and rotted.

Foliar top dressing is also considered effective - spraying the leaves with minerals. This increases the decorativeness of the culture and prolongs the flowering period. To do this, use a solution of boric acid (0.15 g per 1 liter of water), a 0.15% solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (0.2 g per 1 liter of water). The leaves are fertilized twice during the summer: at the beginning of growth and during the budding period.

Plant propagation

The flower propagates vegetatively (by corm and baby), but in some cases seeds are also used, especially for breeding new varieties (Figure 4). Corms are selected by size:

From 3 to 7 cm;
From 2 to 3 cm;
From 1 to 2 cm.

Bulbs 3-5 cm are considered the best for getting babies. Bulbs 7 cm in size give insufficient quality plants that bloom poorly and give few children, and also often get sick.

Figure 4. Propagation by corm division

To obtain a larger number of corms, part of the large bulbs is cut in half, into two equal parts. In this case, one should try to keep the lateral kidneys on each of the halves.

Gladiolus: planting and care in the open field

The care of planting plants must be approached very carefully (Figure 5). In order to protect the soil from dehydration and overheating, when seedlings appear, the bed must be mulched with a layer of humus up to 5 cm thick. This is a good way to feed the plant when watering. Plantings are watered abundantly once a week, approximately 10-12 liters per square meter. Water is poured into the inter-row furrow to a depth of 3-5 cm so that the liquid does not fall on the leaves. After watering, loosening is carried out so that the soil is not covered with a crust.

Note: Regardless of precipitation, the soil is loosened at least once every 10 days.

If necessary, arrows in buds are tied to pegs, while all dried shoots are removed so as not to consume the nutrients necessary for seed ripening.

Figure 5. The main stages of care for gladioli in the open field

Weeding is a necessary care method. On average, it is carried out 3-4 times per summer. If the area is overgrown with weeds, the flowers will be small, and the plants themselves may be attacked by pests or diseases.

Preparing Gladiolus Bulbs for Spring Planting

In addition to proper planting and care, it is important to observe certain features of storing bulbs. The dormant period of the plant lasts 35-40 days. During this period, the corm will not germinate, but if the room temperature exceeds 10 degrees, sprouts may still appear.

Bulbs are stored in a box and every month they need to be inspected and damaged planting material removed. For better storage, several peeled cloves of garlic are placed in the box. Once a month they are replaced with fresh ones.

It is recommended to store the corms in a cold basement with good ventilation, and the best storage containers are mesh boxes in which air can circulate, allowing the bulbs to breathe. For convenience and saving space, boxes are placed on shelves.

Figure 6. Soaking bulbs before planting

If you have to keep gladioli in the apartment, then put them in an airtight container (so that they do not lose moisture during storage) and place them in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf. All bulbs must be wrapped in paper, and closer to spring they are taken out, unpacked and dried and re-placed in the refrigerator. In a warm climate, they are taken out for the winter to an insulated balcony or loggia in boxes. During the cold season, the boxes can be wrapped with a blanket. During the winter, the corms shrink, dry out, so they are soaked in a growth stimulator for better survival in the garden.

How to prepare gladioli for planting in spring: video

Features of storing bulbs and their proper preparation for planting in open ground are shown in the video.

Planting gladioli in the spring in the ground

The soil for gladioli must be nutritious, so they grow well on black soil and light loamy and sandy soils. If the site is located on clay and sandy soils, it is necessary to fertilize them with peat or humus.

In autumn, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to the soil, and in the spring they dig up the site on a shovel bayonet, simultaneously introducing nitrogen fertilizers.

Rules

Proper preparation of the bulbs plays a key role in planting (Figure 6). About a month before planting, planting material is brought into the house and inspected. All damaged copies are deleted.

For prevention, all healthy bulbs are soaked in potassium permanganate or garlic solution (250-300 g of chopped garlic per 10 liters of water). After processing, the bulbs are dried and laid out for germination in a cool, bright place. Before planting, the bulbs are soaked in the stimulator for 10 hours.

As a rule, flowers planted so early begin to bloom in July-August. When planting in June, you need to water more often, but the main thing is not to overdo it so that excess moisture does not provoke the development of fungi.

Gladiolus sits at a depth of 10-12 cm with a distance of bulbs from each other 10-15 cm. If desired, a hole for watering can be made near each bush.

When the gladioli have sprouted, it's time to provide them with the right care. The basic rules for caring for flowers are:

Watering is carried out as the soil dries out in the evening;
In the morning after watering, the soil must be loosened;
All flowers are checked for the presence of aphids and thrips (if found, treat the plant with an insecticide).

When the stems of the plant dry out, the bulbs can be dug up for storage and further transplanting to a new place.

Gladiolus in pots: planting and care

If you do not have the opportunity to grow gladioli in a flower bed, you may well plant them in an ordinary flower pot.

Planting and caring for flowers in pots is carried out as follows(picture 7):

The capacity for planting should be roomy, with a diameter of 20-30 cm and a depth of up to 40 cm.
Excess moisture is the first enemy of the plant, so a drainage system in a pot is required.
For planting, take whole healthy bulbs with a stem height of more than 50 cm.
The range of time for disembarkation is wide: from the end of March to the middle of May.

Growing gladiolus in pots is most suitable for dwarf, small and medium flowering varieties. At home, gladiolus is watered at least 3 times a week. A layer of mulch laid out on the surface of the soil will help retain moisture.

Figure 7. Planting and growing flowers in pots

Proper feeding is the key to a long and beautiful flowering of the plant. To do this, use mineral mixtures based on nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, as well as organic fertilizers with substances to stimulate plant growth.

Planting gladioli in pots: video

If you are interested in how to properly plant gladioli in pots, we recommend watching a video that shows this process in detail.

Step-by-step instruction

Growing from seeds and seedlings

Care during storage and feeding

Landing

Read more about the preparation and germination of gladioli

Description of the best varieties

Methods of propagation of gladioli

Prevention from diseases and pests

Disease-resistant varieties of gladiolus

Growing in a greenhouse, on a windowsill, outdoors and in winter

Briefly about growing methods

The best regions for growing gladiolus

The use of gladioli in landscape design

Soil preparation for planting gladioli

Growing Gladiolus: gardeners' mistakes

Bulb storage conditions

Place to land

planting time for gladiolus

Gladiolus - planting and care

Gladiolus - planting depth

Planting gladioli in the ground, care and planting dates | Tips for gardeners

Preparation of gladiolus tubers before planting in the ground

Planting gladioli in the ground, planting dates.

Gladiolus Care

Autumn chores

rules for growing gladioli |

Terms of planting gladioli.

Planting gladioli.

Digging up gladiolus bulbs.

Storage of gladiolus bulbs.

Reproduction of gladioli by buds (or babies).

Gladiolus - preparation and planting of bulbs

Preparing gladioli for planting

Treatment of gladiolus bulbs before planting

How do I get the bulbs for sprouting and cook them: tips (video)

How I germinate bulbs in the country in mid-April (video)

Planting gladioli in spring in open ground

Terms of planting gladioli

Terms of planting gladioli in the suburbs

When to plant gladiolus to bloom by September 1?

Soil preparation for planting gladioli

Planting scheme for gladioli

Planting gladiolus babies

Rules for planting gladioli

How to plant gladioli (video)

Care for gladioli in the open field

Top dressing of gladioli

Gladiolus garter

How to cut gladioli

Treatment of gladioli from thrips

How to plant a gladiolus

Peculiarities

Required Tools

Landing Rules

Fertilizer and top dressing

Plant propagation

Gladiolus: planting and care in the open field

Preparing Gladiolus Bulbs for Spring Planting

How to prepare gladioli for planting in spring: video

Planting gladioli in the spring in the ground

Rules

Gladiolus in pots: planting and care

Planting gladioli in pots: video

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