Tomatoes are a vegetable crop that is quite whimsical to care for. To get a bountiful harvest, tomatoes should be properly looked after. Hilling is an important part of care. Beginning gardeners ask themselves the question: “When to spud tomatoes after planting in the ground, and how to do it right?”
Why hill tomatoes?
Hilling terms
Correct hilling
Why hill tomatoes?
Regarding the hilling of tomatoes, the opinions of vegetable growers differ. Some gardeners believe that hilling is a waste of time and effort. Others argue that the hilling procedure has many advantages.
Positive sides:
- Thanks to this procedure, it is possible to significantly saturate the earth with oxygen.
- The roots and shoots of the plant are strengthened.
- Allows additional roots to develop.
- Excellent effect on the nutrition of the fruit.
- After hilling, hollows are formed, where there will be an accumulation of water.
If adventitious roots have formed on tomato bushes, it is recommended to immediately hill up. Because vegetables need additional nutrition. If you did not see such roots, then the plants do not need hilling. In addition, sometimes such an event can harm tomatoes.
With improper hilling, air will not flow to the roots. Therefore, if the seedlings were planted extremely deep into the ground, then the bushes do not need to be spudded. Because the roots will be well developed anyway.
But if you still perform hilling after the formation of the lower shoots, then their stems can start up their own roots, which will form as independent plants.
In the end, you will get a lot of bushes, and as a result - a bountiful harvest.
Thanks to hilling, it is possible to increase the flow of nutrients to plants from the soil. Tomatoes need nutrients, both during flowering and during ripening. After all, most are surprised why tomatoes discard fruits that have already begun. And the reason for everything is the lack of nutrients.
Moreover, experienced gardeners are advised to carry out hilling for undersized tomatoes. In this case, the plants will not need to be tied up. You should also regularly water the tomatoes, loosen the beds, and weed. Without such procedures, it is almost impossible to achieve a rich harvest. But whether it is worth spudding tomatoes in a greenhouse after picking into the ground or not, the decision is up to you.
Hilling terms
Initial hilling is recommended to be done already 2 weeks after you have planted seedlings in the ground. Since it is during such a period of time that the plants have time to take root and tubercles should already be visible on the stem. These are sprouts, without which vegetables will not develop normally.
If you spud a greenhouse tomato in advance, before the appearance of pimples on the stem, then this can harm the plant, because air will not flow to the deep roots. Therefore, this procedure should not be rushed. You just need to observe the state of the shoots.
Before spudding tomatoes, they should be watered. Plants need to be moistened so that additional roots develop well. Since in dry soil the development of roots will not be too fast.
The next procedure must be carried out after 20 days. Again, you need to pay attention to the stems - if they begin to turn blue, then this indicates that the roots of the plant are developing. More than 2 procedures are not recommended, this will be enough.
Correct hilling
To perform the procedure, you must use a chopper. In addition to the chopper, small rakes can also be used. Hilling tomatoes should be done with extreme caution so as not to damage the root system.
During the procedure, you should loosen the soil a little, so you will provide the roots with an additional supply of oxygen.
Initially, the earth must be poured on one side of the bush, and then on the other. Hilling has only positive reviews, experienced gardeners strongly recommend this procedure.
After the procedure, tubercles should form near the stems, and grooves should form between the rows, in which there will be an accumulation of water for tomatoes. Depending on the type of land, the height of hilling is determined.
For example, if you grow tomatoes on loamy soil, then professionals advise making hilling high. Thus, you will not need to tie the bushes to supports, they will be able to grow well on the heaps.
If the planting of vegetables was carried out in sandy loamy soil, then it is not worth hilling the tomatoes high. In order to get a really good harvest, it is also advisable to add humus soil to the soil.
When you finish the procedure, you need to shake off the ground from the leaves. Hilling tomatoes should be done at least 2 times. It is best if this is done along with loosening the soil. As a result, you will save time and energy.
To grow a good harvest, experienced gardeners recommend frequent watering of tomatoes, but at the same time with small portions of water. Before hilling, the earth must be wet, be sure to moisten it.
Now you know how to properly hill tomatoes after planting in the ground. If the care of vegetables is timely, then in the near future you will be able to harvest a bountiful harvest.
Not only novice vegetable growers, but also those who have been growing tomatoes for more than a year are wondering if it is necessary to spud tomatoes in a greenhouse. To unequivocally answer this question, it is worth understanding the content of the word "hilling up".
Tomatoes need heat and moisture, so they are most often grown in greenhouses.
What is it for?
The hilling process consists in loosening and rolling the lower parts of the tomato stem with moistened earth.
First of all, these actions contribute to the unhindered entry of air to the root of the plant. As a result of these manipulations, the root system is strengthened and develops better. And the stronger and stronger it is, the more optimal the absorption of nutrients, respectively, and the development that affects the yield.
In addition, when hilling on the beds, longitudinal furrows are formed.
After watering, water accumulates in these pits between the mounds. Thus, the liquid lingers in the soil until the next irrigation and reliably protects the tomato bushes from drying out.
This is a particularly relevant topic during periods of hot summer days, as well as in cases where it is not possible to water the plant daily.
Hilled tomato stems protect the roots of the plant from being washed away by irrigation water.
High hilling reliably protects the stems of tomatoes from the penetration of various pests and insects, such as ants, snails and slugs.
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Secrets of a good tomato harvest
If you look at it, growing tomatoes in a greenhouse is not such a difficult task. The main thing is to follow the basic rules of care:
- water in a timely manner;
- stepchild if necessary;
- weed and spud;
- tie up;
- feed;
- provide protection from diseases and pests.
True, if you neglect at least one of these rules, you may not get the expected harvest.
Care must be comprehensive, any violation can adversely affect the condition of the tomato bush.
One of the secrets to a good tomato crop is their strong roots. The stronger and better developed they are, the more nutrition will be provided to the entire bush. The tomatoes are getting bigger and in greater numbers.
As already mentioned, you can strengthen the root system of a plant using hilling. Now you need to figure out how to do it correctly, how often and in what periods.
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When is the soak period?
Spud plants during periods of growth of its roots. After planting the seedlings in the soil, the roots begin to grow vigorously, and then slow down their growth. During this period, the mass of the bush is actively growing, the stem becomes thicker and stronger.
A little later, the roots begin to grow actively again, and when flowering and fruit set occurs, they again slow down in growth. Ideally, hilling tomatoes should be done about two to three times throughout the season. Plants themselves will tell you when it's time to hill up.
For example, when small tubercles-pimples appear on the stem (this usually happens during flowering), you need to spud the stems with moist soil.
Tubercles are the beginnings of future roots, for which it is necessary to organize additional access to moisture. From these bulges very soon (after sprinkling them with earth) roots will appear. At this stage, you are spudding tomatoes for the first time. This usually happens during the first month after planting in the greenhouse.
Hilling a second time is possible when the lowest part of the stem has changed color from green to barely blue. This also suggests that the root system is in the process of development.
If you constantly monitor the plant and its stem, you will be able to loosen the soil in a timely manner, allowing you to grow good roots on the plant, which will provide it with a lot of strength for fertility.
Accurate adherence to agricultural cultivation is the key to obtaining a decent crop of tomatoes. Hilling of tomatoes in a greenhouse and in open soil is one of the methods of cultivating a crop. In order to get the effect of it, you need to know well how to properly loosen tomatoes.
Basic description of culture
Tomatoes are a vegetable crop from the Solanaceae family, widely distributed in our country and around the world. The fruits of the plant are a berry with high palatability. The root system is highly branched, lies deep. The stem grows from 30 to 200 cm.
Brief Rationale
Hilling of tomatoes is usually classified as an optional agrotechnical measure. Many summer residents and gardeners try never to resort to its implementation during the season, because they do not see the benefit in this. However, tomatoes usually respond positively to hilling. The bushes accelerate growth and development. Plants begin to bloom better, become strong, powerful, fully developed, form an abundant and high-quality crop. Positive results are manifested during the procedure not only in open ground, but also in greenhouse and greenhouse conditions.
Tomatoes in a greenhouse
Benefits of the procedure
Hilling tomatoes with the timeliness and correctness of the implementation has a positive effect on the culture, in particular:
- protects the bush and root system from the adverse effects of the weather and climate environment;
- makes the stem stronger and more stable, does not allow it to bend or break under its own weight and crop, allows you to do without the necessary garter for undersized varieties;
- improves the supply of oxygen to the roots, without which they will not be able to fully grow and develop;
- reduces the risk of damage to bushes by fungal diseases and damage by pests, which develop better in conditions of waterlogged and poorly saturated soil;
- stimulates the formation of additional roots, which contributes to the entry of more nutrients into the bush and the preservation of a significant number of ovaries;
- promotes soil drainage and counteracts moisture stagnation in the soil, which is poorly tolerated by tomatoes, leads to decay and death of the root system, makes the fruits watery, devoid of taste;
- improves the warming of the soil by sunlight;
- reduces the number of weeds in the plot due to their damage during hilling.
Hilling during the period of pinching tomatoes allows them to take root. Due to this, it is possible to increase the area occupied by the crop, and to harvest a larger crop.
Timing and frequency of hilling
In order to understand whether it is necessary to spud tomatoes, and determine the timing of the procedure, it is recommended to focus on the external signs and general condition of the plants in greenhouses or in the plot. A close examination of the bushes can be found near the base of the trunk small outgrowths, tubercles of white color. They represent an emerging additional root system in its infancy. This organ is formed in cases where the culture is deficient in nutrients. The appearance of such a symptom gives a signal of the need for an early hilling.
Important! Before these tubercles appear, this procedure is not recommended. The poured earth will block access to oxygen for the weak roots that have already appeared and provoke their decay and death.
Most often, the time of the first hilling occurs one and a half to two weeks after planting the plants in the ground. By this time, the seedlings are usually quite well adapted to the growing conditions.
Some time after planting and hilling, the base of the bush trunk will be covered with a bluish tint. This is a signal that the additional root system continues to develop normally and has begun to grow. Tomatoes should be spudded during this period, as this will benefit the plant.
Usually, two procedures per season are enough for tomatoes, and it is not recommended to carry out hilling too often. However, if additional roots continue to form, then the action is carried out again and again until the final formation of the additional root system is completed.
Hilling in the greenhouse
The question of whether it is necessary to spud tomatoes in a greenhouse or polycarbonate greenhouses should be answered positively. Before proceeding directly to the procedure, the soil must be shed abundantly. The need for this is due to the fact that particles of dried soil can injure the roots and the aerial part of the culture. Irrigation is recommended to be carried out a day before hilling.
The soil around the bush is carefully scooped up to the stem base and made of it a small hill no more than 8-10 cm high. For this, it is recommended to use a small special garden rake or hoe.
Additional mound
If there is not enough soil in the greenhouse to complete the process, nutrient soil should be added from another part of the garden. In this situation, the earth is poured around the bush to the required height.
Hilling tomatoes in a greenhouse is often complicated by the fact that the loose and well-structured soil in the greenhouse falls off the mound, due to which young roots are exposed. To prevent this from happening, you should install special props from pieces of plywood or slate. A good solution in this case is the use of roofing material. From the material, you can cut pieces of the required size, which are folded into a cylinder and placed around the bushes. In such conditions, it is very convenient to control the height of the embankment.
Hilling in open ground
In an open plot, pre-moistening of the soil plays an even more important role. It is necessary to water for at least two days, or you can spud tomatoes after heavy rain stops.
Note! Hilling tomatoes in the open field, combined with weeding plantings, will save a lot of time.
It is necessary to know exactly at what distance the loosening of tomatoes is carried out. It is about 20 cm from the plant. The soil is carefully raked up to the bush. Care must be taken not to damage the roots in the process.
Hilling tomatoes
When raking the soil, it is recommended to build shallow grooves in the soil near the mound. During irrigation or precipitation, moisture will accumulate in these recesses, which will keep the soil in a slightly moist state for a long time, which will allow the crop to endure dry conditions without problems.
Additional Information! In the process of hilling, it is recommended to add a small amount of humus and / or compost to the soil.
It is better to spud in the early morning or in the evening. The weather should be as cloudy as possible. Such conditions will allow the bushes to adapt more easily and quickly to the updated cultivation conditions.
Cultivation without hilling
In some cases, it is allowed to cultivate tomatoes without raking the soil near the stem of the bushes. To do this, you need to make sure that the plants are fully developed and do not need an additional influx of nutrition. This can be set using the following features:
- powerful developed stem without root primordia;
- good, abundant flowering;
- bright green foliage without signs of chlorosis;
- a large number of fruit ovaries.
In order to achieve such success, it is necessary to feed the plants competently and in a timely manner, as well as follow all other agrotechnical recommendations. However, hilling will always benefit the culture.
The effect of hilling tomatoes is not only to improve nutrition. This procedure should become increasingly important among summer residents and gardeners.
Immediately after planting, tomatoes are abundantly watered with plain water and sprayed with EM solution 1:1000. Spraying is repeated after 2 days. It is especially necessary when there is a possibility of returning frosts.
The first ground watering of tomatoes with a 1:1000 EM solution is carried out about a week after planting. After it, the soil is mulched with a layer of 1-5 cm in order to protect it from compaction after rains and heavy watering. For mulching, it is useful to use EM compost, and on top of it - chopped nettles. Beneficial microorganisms develop at the interface between such mulch and soil, protecting plants from diseases.
In the first days after planting, seedlings are watered more often, depending on the air temperature - every 2-3 days. At the same time, if bulk materials were used as mulch, mulching is repeated. When using pine needles, this is not necessary.
In different periods of the growing season, the need for tomato water is not the same. During seed germination, it is maximum. When growing seedlings, during flowering and fruit set, soil moisture should be moderate - 65-75% of the lowest moisture capacity (LW).
To ensure the survival of seedlings, the first 5–7 days after planting maintain high soil moisture (with loosening of the soil after watering). Then watering is stopped for 8–12 days, since increased soil moisture during this period leads to increased growth of the vegetative mass and slows down the development of the generative organs of the plant, thereby delaying flowering and fruiting. In addition, when the moisture content of the upper soil layer is low, the root system penetrates into the deeper layers of the soil, which improves the supply of moisture to plants in subsequent periods. In the future, maintain moderate soil moisture.
Waterlogging is especially dangerous for plants grown in limited containers, such as plastic bags, since the lack of good drainage leads to the death of the root system. In this case, it should be watered sparingly, but more often (in hot weather - three to four times a day).
During fruit ripening, the tomato consumes a lot of soil moisture. Sharp changes in soil moisture during this period lead to cracking and a decrease in the size of the fruit. Insufficient moisture at this time results in the formation of hard greenish-yellow spots on the fruit, a decrease in fruit weight, and possibly also abscission of the flowers. At the same time, excessive soil moisture worsens its air regime (which has a bad effect on the activity of the roots), reduces the sugar and dry matter content in the fruits (the fruits become sour and watery). The optimum soil moisture during this period is 80-90%. Soil moisture can be measured with a tensiometer at a depth of 10–20 cm (the moment of water supply for tomatoes with a suction force above 50 mm Hg).
The average daily water demand for the season, including unproductive losses, is about 3.2 l/sq.m for long-term and 4 l/sq.m. in short term culture. The total water requirement, depending on the duration of the crop, the season of the year and planting density, ranges from 600 to 950 l/sq.m.
To reduce air humidity, the frequency of watering is reduced to the limit, and watering is carried out by flushing into the furrows (not by sprinkling) made between rows of plants, in the morning or in the evening. Irrigation water temperature should be 20-22°C. During periods of low water consumption (from November to February, as well as in the first two weeks after planting seedlings), they are watered moderately once every 5-7 days, from May to August in sunny weather - three times a week, the rest of the time - twice a week. a week, and for heavy soils even once a week. A single watering rate should initially be 8–10 l / sq.m, later (during the fruiting period) 10–20 l / sq.m. The approximate average rate of irrigation water by months of the growing season for a long-term tomato crop is shown in the table.
Irrigation rate of greenhouse tomato with long-term culture
| In liters per 1 plant per day, indeterminate hybrids ** [N.Borisov] | ||
| Month | Development phase | Norm |
| January | After planting seedlings | 0,3-0,6 |
| February | Vegetative growth | 0,5-1,0 |
| March | Bloom | 0,5-1,0 |
| April | Beginning of fruiting | 0,5-1,0 |
| May | Mass fruiting | 1,5-2,0 |
| June | Same | 2,0-2,5 |
| July | Same | 2,0-2,5 |
| August | Same | 1,5-2,0 |
| September | Same | 1,0-1,5 |
| October | End of fruiting | 0,5-1,0 |
| November | Same | 0,5-0,8 |
After planting, seedlings are watered more often with warm (35 °) water. Before the appearance of fruits on the first 2-3 inflorescences, they are watered less often, later they are watered more often (based on the average daily rate). * - with a short-term culture (due to the greater density of planting), the norm is 10-15% more. ** - Water consumption per 1 sq.m is determined by multiplying the irrigation rate by planting density (approximately 2.2-2.5 plants / sq.m). At the same time, the area of passages (paths) is also included in the calculation of the density. |
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The soil should not be allowed to dry out after the fruits have become large, since the resumption of watering in this case leads to massive cracking of the fruits.
It is better to water tomatoes in sunny weather in protected ground in the morning, in open ground in windy weather it is possible in the evening. Irrigation water temperature should not be lower than 20-22°. To reduce air humidity, greenhouses, greenhouses and frame shelters are ventilated in time; reduce evaporation by watering only the soil (trying not to wet the plants).
Important! It is better to water not under the root, but in a trench between the rows. (Breeder V. Gubko, Novosibirsk) After pinching and removing leaves, do not water (plants) for a day so that the wounds have time to heal. As soon as the fruits begin to turn red, watering is reduced so that they did not crack.
Loosening, weeding, hilling
The soil under the plants should always be loose. After each watering, or at least once every 2 weeks, the aisles are loosened, combining this with weeding. In the first 2-3 weeks after planting, loosen to a depth of 10-12 cm, then, in order not to damage the roots - up to 5-8 cm. If the soil is heavy, loosen deeper - but only places where the roots have not yet penetrated. Improves the temperature and humidity conditions of the soil and mulching.
When the plants grow, loosening is combined with hilling. It does not allow the roots to become bare and creates conditions for better heating of the soil and the germination of adventitious roots (due to which the ripening of fruits is accelerated). The first hilling is carried out 2-3 weeks after planting, the next - after 10-15 days. Spud with wet earth. Instead of hilling, it is useful to add humus soil.
Watch video:
Caring for tomatoes after planting.
Related Articles Formation of a tomato bush in one stem: remove from the main stem all side shoots (the so-called stepchildren) that form in the axil of each leaf, and leave 5-6 fruit brushes on the main shoot. Make a pinch over the last (upper) flower brush and leave 2-3 leaves on it. In order to get a good harvest, tomatoes must be periodically fed after planting in the ground. Usually, when growing a tomato in a garden, 4 basal top dressings are carried out. Feeding options can be different, consider one of them: From the moment the seedlings are planted in the ground and up to the set of fruits on the first inflorescences, you should not get carried away with watering the tomato. It is only necessary to moisten the soil, preventing it from drying out.
Instruction
To accelerate the ripening of tomato fruits, you can make a through split in the stem, its basal part, with a knife. Insert a stick into it so that it does not overgrow During flowering, it is necessary to carry out foliar feeding, spray flower brushes with solutions:
In open ground, as a rule, early-ripening and undersized varieties are grown. Plants of such tomatoes form in 2 - 3 stalks or 1 stalk if you want to get an early harvest. With a two-stem formation, one stepson is left under the first flower brush, and the remaining stepsons are removed. When forming into 3 stems, the stepson under the first brush and one more, the strongest, are left to grow. Formation in one stem is to remove all stepchildren. Stepsons are removed when they reach 5 - 7 cm long, regularly, as they pull nutrients onto themselves, which affects the yield. Stepchildren must be removed carefully, without the formation of wounds, because a fungal infection can get into them. If the stepchildren have outgrown, then it is better to use scissors or a sharp knife, leaving a stump of 1 cm from the stepson. On tomatoes, not only pinching is carried out, but also pinching, that is, the top is removed after tying 2 - 3 brushes on the shoot. 2-3 leaves must be left above the upper brush, since the development of fruits in the brush occurs due to the leaves adjacent to it. All unset inflorescences are also removed. Pinching should be done in early August to accelerate the growth and ripening of the left fruits. You also need to remove the lower leaves. This should be done gradually, 1 - 2 sheets per week. By the time the fruits of the first brush ripen, there should be no lower leaves. On a garden bed in the open ground, in central Russia, they are planted on May 25 - June 5. In the northern regions, tomatoes are planted later - on June 5 - 12, when the daytime temperature is not lower than +14 +15 degrees and the danger of return frosts has passed. In the southern regions, tomato planting is carried out on May 15 - 18. 
caring for planting tomatoes Recently, talk has not subsided about whether it is worth hilling tomato bushes or not. And if no one doubts the need for regular watering, weeding and loosening of the beds, then it is up to you to hill the bushes or not. We will bring to your attention only some of the benefits of this event. 
When the tomatoes grow up, tie each bush to a peg, put together a wooden formwork around it and cover it with a film from the inside. You can put a tank without a bottom around each bush. Fill the formwork or tank halfway with a mixture of humus, turf, sand, ash, peat. Water once a week with a warm fertilizer solution and top up with the mixture. Gradually, the tank or formwork should be filled. Stepsons can not be removed, just remove the grown tomatoes. From September stepchild and protect the bushes from frost with a film. The harvest will be until the beginning of October. Tomatoes 
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Caring for tomato plants
Formation of a tomato bush in two stems: remove all side shoots from the main stem, except for what grows under the first flower brush. Leave 4 fruit clusters on the main stem and pinch off the top, leaving 3 leaves. On the side shoot, leave 3 fruit brushes and pinch too, leaving 2 - 3 leaves.
The first top dressing is carried out 3 weeks after planting the tomato in the ground: Composition: 1 tablespoon of Ideal liquid fertilizer + 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska per 10 liters of water. Dosage: half a liter of solution per tomato. When the fruit begins to grow, the need for water in tomatoes increases dramatically. During this period, watering should be carried out often and regularly, trying to maintain soil moisture at the same level. A change in soil moisture can cause a stop in the growth of green fruits, cracking of ripe tomatoes and, in combination with other unfavorable factors, cause the spread of blossom end rot. You can, by pulling the plant up, slightly tear the roots and limit the nutrition of the plant, which will lead to an outflow of nutrients from the leaves and stems to fruits.
Watering tomato beds
1 teaspoon baking soda and 1/4 teaspoon boric acid, cool.
Caring for planted tomatoes is pest control, frost protection, loosening the soil, pinching, and so on.
The best for growing tomatoes are light loamy, sandy loamy, rich in humus, with neutral soil acidity. The beds for growing tomatoes should be protected from cold winds and warm up well.
Loosening and weeding
Hilling tomatoes
Why is it useful to spud tomatoes:
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- These are quite thermophilic plants. However, even in the conditions of the middle lane, they can be grown without a greenhouse and a greenhouse, in an open
Formation of a tomato bush in three stems: remove all side shoots from the main stem, except for the two lower ones. Leave 2-3 fruit clusters on the main stem, remove the rest. On stepchildren, leave 2 fruit brushes each and pinch so that there are 2-3 leaves above the upper fruit brushes.
The second dressing of the tomato is carried out when the second flower brush begins to bloom. Ingredients: 1 tablespoon of "Agricola - Vegeta" + 1 tablespoon of superphosphate + 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate or potassium chloride per 10 liters of water. Another option: 1 tablespoon of Signor Tomato fertilizer per 10 liters of water. Dosage: 1 liter of solution for each tomato bush.
After each watering tomato, it is necessary to loosen the soil around the plant. In this case, of course, it is necessary to destroy the grown weeds. The first loosening of a tomato is carried out to a depth of 8 - 12 cm: such deep loosening creates favorable conditions in the upper soil layer for warming it up and saturating it with oxygen, which is important for tomatoes at the beginning of the growing season. In the future, the soil is loosened to a depth of 4 - 5 cm. It is impossible to allow soil compaction - this is bad for the tomato root system.
Mulching beds with tomatoes
You can also put a plastic bag with a hole for condensate drainage on a brush of unripe tomatoes. The fruits in the bag are warmer, they are protected from late blight, grow and ripen faster.
Root top dressing of tomatoes
Dilute 1 gram of boric acid in 1 liter of water.
Potassium-phosphorus top dressing and prevention of late blight
To save tomatoes from frost, you can cover them with matting, paper caps, burlap, or use smoke fires and sprinkling. If the cold snap is expected to be long, then it is better to spud the planted tomatoes. When the threat of frost disappears, the seedlings must be freed from the ground.
In one place, tomatoes can be grown for no more than 2-3 years, since the same minerals are removed from the soil and diseases and pests accumulate in the soil. Good predecessors for tomatoes are: zucchini, cabbage, onions, carrots, annual herbs. In no case should tomatoes be planted after potatoes, peppers, eggplants and other nightshade crops, because they have the same pests and diseases as tomatoes. You can return the tomatoes to their place no earlier than after 3-4 years. To avoid damage to tomatoes by late blight, the Colorado potato beetle should be avoided planting them next to potatoes. Site news to your email! Enter your Email 1. The saturation of the soil with oxygen improves.
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ground You can see what stepchildren are and how to remove them in the video. The third top dressing of the tomato is carried out, when the third flower brush blooms. Ingredients: 1 tablespoon of liquid "Sodium Humate" or "Ideal" fertilizer + 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska. Dosage: 5 liters of solution per square meter of bed.
What varieties are suitable for open ground
Summer residents often have the question of whether it is necessary to spud tomatoes. Recently, many people have appeared who consider hilling an unnecessary procedure. However, growing a tomato with hilling has its advantages: In order to avoid damage to tomatoes by late blight, you need to collect fruits in a timely manner. If the weather forecast threatens with temperature changes and high humidity, it is better to collect all the fruits that have poured.
These foliar top dressings stimulate the formation of ovaries. They should be carried out only in dry weather. Also, a good effect for fruit setting is given by spraying flower brushes with the preparations "Ovary" and "Tomaton"
To provide tomatoes with temperature and water-air conditions, it is necessary to avoid the formation of a soil crust, due to which plants lose a lot of moisture. To do this, the soil is mulched. For mulching use: peat, straw, humus, old sawdust. By creating all the conditions for the growth and development of tomatoes, we ensure a good harvest.
Disembarkation dates
It is better to prepare the soil for tomatoes in the fall: remove all plant debris, carefully select weeds, dig to a depth of 25 - 30 cm, be sure to add organic fertilizers, at the rate of 4 - 6 kg. per 1 sq. meter. If the beds for tomatoes are prepared in the spring, then digging is better to add humus. Also in the spring, apply mineral fertilizers to the soil at the rate of: superphosphate - 80 grams, potassium chloride - 20 grams per 1 sq. meter. Nitrogen fertilizers are best applied as top dressing. If the soil is loamy or clayey, then it is too heavy for tomatoes, so you need peat or well-rotted sawdust, 1 bucket per 1 sq. meter. It is better not to overdo it with fertilizers, as this will cause increased growth of stepchildren, the plant will stretch, bloom profusely and poorly set fruits.
Soil preparation
When growing tomatoes in the open field, many gardeners do not take into account that tomato varieties are divided into varieties for protected ground and varieties for open ground.
2. The root system of tomatoes develops better, as conditions are created for the appearance of additional roots, which increases the possibility of obtaining additional nutrition and strengthening the stem.
Every gardener strives to obtain abundant crops of cultivated plants. A decent harvest of tomatoes is a true reward for the workers of the summer cottage for their constant care of the plants. Correct
. To do this, you need to buy varieties that tolerate cold well - such seeds are now sold - and follow a number of rules for growing and caring.
Series of messages "GARDEN, GARDEN,":
The fourth dressing of the tomato is carried out two weeks after the third. Ingredients: 1 tablespoon of superphosphate per 10 liters of water. Dosage: 10 liters of solution per square meter of bed.
Hilling contributes to the enrichment of the soil with oxygen;
How to care for tomatoes after planting seedlings in open ground ...
The harvest of tomatoes directly depends on watering. If the plants do not have enough moisture, then the quality becomes worse.
Formation of tomato bushes
A high yield of tomatoes is impossible without regular top dressing. The first top dressing is done 10 to 15 days after planting the tomatoes in the soil. 10 - 15 grams of superphosphate, 5 - 10 grams of ammonium nitrate are taken per bucket of water. Solution consumption 1 bucket per 1 sq. meter. The second time they feed when the ovaries appear, for a bucket of water - 10 - 15 grams of potassium sulfate, 5 - 10 grams of ammonium nitrate. Organic fertilizers are also good for top dressing: mullein solution 1:10, bird droppings solution 1:20 based on 20 bushes. Top dressing must be carried out in a timely manner, and for this you need to carefully monitor the condition of the tomatoes.
Care
In the spring, before digging, the earth must be shed with a solution of copper sulfate. To prepare the solution, you need to dilute 1 tablespoon of the drug in 1 bucket of water. Solution consumption 1.5 - 2 liters per 1 sq. meter
Agrotechnics for growing tomatoes
3. On the beds with hilled bushes, furrows are naturally formed between the hills of the earth - after irrigation, not only accumulates in them, but also retains moisture for a long time.
top dressing
caring for planting tomatoes
- Sow tomato seeds for seedlings in the second half of February in seedling boxes. It is necessary to close up in a moist soil mixture, no deeper than 5-8 mm, with an interval of about 5 cm between rows and about 3 cm between seeds. This is done so that during subsequent picking, the roots of the sprouts are not damaged. From above, cover the seedling boxes with glass or a plastic bag (transparent).
- Part 1 - We treat cucumbers with brilliant green
- To feed the tomato in the garden, you can also use bird droppings. This is an excellent balanced fertilizer, which contains all the necessary trace elements. To prepare the nutrient solution, fill a barrel or other container halfway with bird droppings and fill to the brim with water. Let the solution sit for three days. After excision of this period, dilute the concentrate with water in a ratio of 1:15. Tomatoes need to be fed at the rate of 3 liters of solution for each bush.
- Hilling stimulates the development of the tomato root system, the growth of additional roots, strengthening the stem;
SOURCE
Water the tomatoes along the furrows between the rows or under the root, avoiding water on the plants. Watering is repeated every 7 days. The soil must be soaked to a depth of 35 cm. After the appearance of the ovaries, during the filling of the fruits, it is necessary to water more often and more, and always regularly. Uneven irrigation leads to cracking of the fruit.
- With a lack of nitrogen, the leaves turn pale, the plants grow poorly. With an excess of nitrogen, the plant, on the contrary, “fattens”, the stems and leaves grow too actively.
- After the beds are prepared, they need to stand for 1 - 2 days in order for the earth to warm up and only then plant seedlings.
for greenhouses and open ground is different. Tomatoes of varieties intended for greenhouses will suffer greatly from temperature changes in the open field, get sick and pollinate poorly, and vice versa, undersized varieties for open ground will not master the volume of the greenhouse and will give a small harvest. It will take several years before it will be possible to select varieties suitable for these climatic conditions.
Watering
To decide whether to hill the plants or not, there is a test method: inspect the stems of the bushes near the surface of the soil - if adventitious roots break through on them, then this is a signal that additional nutrients from the ground are needed, and if there are no tubercles, then hill the plants not worth it, so as not to impede the access of oxygen to the main roots.
After planting bushes for permanent residence (on beds or in greenhouses) - a whole science, which is not difficult to master.
Pollination
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Part 2 - Fighting the Medvedka
Weed control
To prevent late blight and other fungal diseases, tomatoes can be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture. For the same purpose, you can also use an ash solution prepared at the rate of 2 tablespoons of ash per 1 liter of water and infused for 2 days.
Maturation
Hilling improves plant nutrition;
Tomatoes produce enough pollen to pollinate their own flower and neighboring ones too, but the quality of pollination directly depends on the weather, mainly on air temperature. The quality of the pollen deteriorates, and the anthers are deformed if the temperature is below 13 degrees. Pollen loses its viability, flowers fall off if the air temperature is above 30 - 35 degrees.
A lack of phosphorus is manifested by a purple tint of leaves, and an excess of phosphorus is manifested by yellowing of leaves and abscission of flowers and ovaries.
A tomato seedling ready for planting should be strong, healthy, 30 - 35 cm high, with a stem thickness of 0.7 - 1 cm, 7 - 9 leaves and two well-developed flower tassels.
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Features of growing tomatoes in open ground
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These groups of tomatoes with a limited type of growth.
Conducting the correct
Experienced gardeners advise when caring for planting tomatoes to loosen the beds after each irrigation. Simultaneously with it, the destruction of weeds is carried out. The first time you need to loosen the soil deep enough (10-12 cm) - this allows you to create air permeability of the soil and the most favorable conditions for heating and enrichment with oxygen molecules, which is important for the root system of tomatoes, especially at the initial stage of vegetation. Subsequent loosening is carried out to a depth of no more than 5 cm. Try to prevent soil compaction in a timely manner, which can occur, for example, after heavy rains or, conversely, during a period of drought.
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Part 21 - How to care for tomatoes after planting seedlings in open ground ...
There are various ways to form tomato bushes: in one, two or three stems. After pinching and pinching, 5-6 fruit clusters and at least 30-35 leaves should remain on the bush. Stepsons need to be broken off, not cut off. In their place, small columns a couple of centimeters long are left. When pinching, it is necessary to avoid getting the juice of the plant on the fingers, because with it, in case of illness, the infection can be transferred to other tomatoes.
To reduce the number of waterings and accelerate the ripening of fruits, tomatoes can be mulched, that is, lay peat, straw, sawdust in the aisle. Green manures are especially well suited for this purpose. You can grow tomatoes right on the site sown with green manure. Do I need to clear the bed for tomatoes, and spread the unnecessary green manure between the rows as mulch. Supporters of natural farming convince that green manure has a very positive effect on tomato yields. They loosen and enrich the soil, retain moisture in it, and prevent the growth of weeds. The use of green manure allows you to refuse to introduce chemical fertilizers into the soil. For the use of green manure as an organic mulch for tomatoes, see the video.
What varieties of cucumbers for open ground Harvest varieties of open ground tomato 
