Waxing wooden products with a hair dryer. Wood treatment with paraffin

It is important to emphasize the texture of wood with an appropriate finish. Of course, now there are a lot of chemical stains and varnishes on a different basis. They have their advantages, but there are also significant drawbacks, the main of which is unnaturalness and toxicity. There are situations when varnishes and stains are generally unacceptable. For example, in the manufacture of wooden spoons or dishes.

Natural beeswax or vegetable wax 1) is harmless to health, 2) emphasizes the beauty and shows the texture of the wood, it becomes brighter, more expressive, slightly darkens and acquires a noble golden hue, 3) the surface of the wood treated with wax becomes water-repellent and scratch-resistant, moreover it breathes, unlike varnishing, 4) the tree acquires a noble matte sheen that does not hurt the eyes, 5) it has an excellent smell.

Before waxing, the tree must be treated impregnation. The simplest impregnation is vegetable oil, better of course linseed. They process the product in several stages. After each impregnation, the product is allowed to dry, then polished.

On the basis of linseed oil, impregnating compositions on herbs and roots (angelica root, burdock, elecampane, galangal) are often prepared. The tannins contained in the plants pass into the oil and, when processed, strengthen its surface layers.

Here is a recipe for peppermint oil, which has a very pleasant light aroma:

100 g of dried crushed mint leaves are poured into a glass container, poured into 0.5 liters of vegetable oil, shaken and sent for 2 weeks in a dark place. Then it is filtered and used.

After the tree is treated with wax mastic. Protozoa wax mastic prepared from wax and turpentine in a ratio of 2:1 or oil and wax in a ratio of 2:1 (this is for food products). Here is another recipe for how to make wax mastic:
We take 100 g of wax, 25 g of crushed rosin and 50 g of purified turpentine.

In a water bath, melt the wax in an enameled container, add rosin. After the wax dissolves, gradually add turpentine. I add a little more propolis, it strengthens the wood and gives extra flavor. Remove everything from the heat, pour into a tin jar and let the composition cool. The mastic becomes thick and pasty:

She rubs the product and rubs it with a piece of cloth or wool until the fabric stops sticking and shine appears.

Sometimes resin or cherry gum is added to the mastic.

In addition to beeswax, it is often used, which is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian palm tree. In hot weather, it releases a wax that coats the surface of the leaf and protects against moisture loss.

Carnauba wax has a higher melting point and is therefore more stable than bees. But also 3 times more expensive.

Please rate this post:

Process wood waxing has recently gained particular popularity. Let's see, is this a fashion trend or a necessity? Wood, during its use, requires protection from the harmful effects of the environment or biological organisms. Varnishes and stains help with this, but they contain many chemical elements, the release into the air of which is not desirable for the human respiratory tract. It is better to use an alternative option - wax of bee or vegetable origin.

Beeswax for waxing wood

This wax has enough positive qualities:

Absolute safety for the human body;
Emphasizes the woody texture and gives it a matte golden hue;
The wooden surface has water-repellent properties;
Wax coating is able to "breathe" and not interfere with the saturation of the air with the natural smell of wood.

How to prepare the surface before waxing?

Before waxing, the surface must be prepared. If possible, it must be carefully sanded. Next, a layer of impregnation is applied to the wooden object. As an impregnating solution, you can use mixtures prepared at home.

What is wood wax impregnation made of?

Impregnation consists of 100gr. dry mint leaves, half a liter of vegetable oil, 10g each. - angelica and burdock. All components are mixed together and left for two weeks to saturate, and then applied to the surface with a roller or cotton swab. When the impregnation penetrates into the fibers, the surface can be waxed with a special wax mastic.

Mastic for waxing: how to cook?

Also, you can use a special mastic for waxing, which can be prepared at home. This requires simple ingredients, namely: 50ml of turpentine, 100g. wax, 25 gr. rosin. You need to mix all the ingredients in a metal bowl by heating it in a steam bath. To begin with, wax and rosin are gradually dissolved, and then turpentine is added to them. After the formation of a homogeneous mass, it is left for a while to cool. When cold, the mastic will look like a vein. After that, it is applied to the surface with a piece of wool, it should be rubbed until a slight sheen appears on the object. After carrying out all the procedures, the wood will be reliably protected and will last for decades.

Wood waxing. Mastics and impregnations for wood

Natural bee or vegetable wax

1) harmless to health,

2) emphasizes the beauty and shows the texture of the wood, it becomes brighter, more expressive, slightly darkens and acquires a noble golden hue, 3) the surface of the wood treated with wax becomes water-repellent and scratch-resistant, besides it breathes, unlike varnishing,

4) the tree acquires a noble matte sheen that does not hurt the eyes,

5) has an excellent smell.

Wood must be impregnated before waxing. The simplest impregnation is vegetable oil, better of course linseed. They process the product in several stages. After each impregnation, the product is allowed to dry, then polished.

mint oil

Here is a recipe for peppermint oil, which has a very pleasant light aroma:

100 g of dried crushed mint leaves are poured into a glass container, poured into 0.5 liters of vegetable oil, shaken and sent for 2 weeks in a dark place. Then it is filtered and used.

After the tree is treated with wax mastic. The simplest wax mastic is made from wax and turpentine in a 2:1 ratio, or oil and wax in a 2:1 ratio (this is for food products). Here is another recipe for how to make wax mastic:

We take 100 g of wax, 25 g of crushed rosin and 50 g of purified turpentine.

She rubs the product and rubs it with a piece of cloth or wool until the fabric stops sticking and shine appears.

Sometimes resin or cherry gum is added to the mastic.

In addition to beeswax, carnauba wax is often used, which is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian palm tree. In hot weather, it releases a wax that coats the surface of the leaf and protects against moisture loss.

Carnauba wax has a higher melting point and is therefore more stable than bees. But also 3 times more expensive.

Source: http://iz-dereva-svoimi-rukami.ru/

Push:

I have tried using a mixture of beeswax and linseed oil for waxing.

We heat the wax in a water bath. After the wax has melted, add linseed oil and mix well.

Proportions:

Wax-oil 4-1, 2-1 - the mastic turns out to be hard - similar to hard wax, but with a "greasy" sheen.

Wax-oil 1-4, 1-2 - this mastic is obtained in the form of a semi-thick paste. The more oil, the more creamy the mastic will turn out. It must be stored in an airtight jar. Before use, we climb into the jar with a cloth and, having collected a little mastic, we polish the product on the machine. I use this mastic for waxing complex profiles (sour cream climbs everywhere).

Mastic based on "Wax-oil" is relatively safe for "food" products (jars, vases for cookies). Why I call it relatively safe - I just think that in our age of allergies, sooner or later there will be a person in whom your product will cause allergies. I personally know a person with an allergy to linseed oil :)

But it should be recognized that the wax and oil components of the mastic are the most environmentally friendly and are suitable for processing products that will come into contact with products.

Try mixing the wax with other oils - maybe you like something more.

For the sake of interest, I once prepared a mastic infused with juniper sawdust and roots - when a linden is covered with such a mastic, a gentle juniper smell comes from it (a familiar carpenter was puzzled at first :)). Also, various herbs and roots often change the shade of the coated product - in general, an unlimited springboard for creativity.

Linseed oil can be bought in many pharmacies - it is the cheapest there. Oil that is sold in art salons - I do not recommend using it for food products.

I prefer to buy wax "at the grandmother's market". Once I bought wax in the market (in the form of molds) - something is not right.

Also, products can be coated simply with a piece of wax - apply wax to a rotating product - rub it well, and then polish it with cotton, woolen or linen

Wax mastics are made by mixing beeswax with other components in a 2:1 ratio, for example, with turpentine, oil (for dishes and other household items in contact with food), rosin.

One of the recipes for making wax mastic is as follows: 100 g of beeswax is melted in a water bath with 25 g of crushed rosin. As the wax melts, 50 g of turpentine is added little by little. After the mixed mass becomes homogeneous, it is cooled. You should get a plastic paste-like mass.

Such a mastic is applied to the product with a woolen cloth and polished, rubbing the mastic into the surface, until the stickiness disappears and shine appears. You can also use a stiff natural bristle brush.

The simplest mastic

The simplest mastic for waxing finely porous wood consists of 40
parts of wax and 60 parts of turpentine (taken by weight). For her
cooking first in a glass or enamel bowl on water
bath melt the wax. When the wax melts, it is removed from the fire and
stir with purified turpentine. Do not mix turpentine with wax in
close proximity to the fire, because the vapor of heated turpentine is easily
ignite. It is also better to heat up the frozen mastic on water.
bath, closing the dishes with a metal lid.

Mastic for waxing large-pore wood

Mastic for waxing large-pore wood has a more complex
compound. It includes: wax (30 mass parts), stearin (10), rosin
(10), laundry soap (10), turpentine (40). With independent
in the manufacture of such a mastic, wax, stearin are first melted and mixed
and rosin, then soap in shavings is added to the hot mixture (gives
mastic elasticity). After the mixture has cooled down a bit, it
diluted with turpentine and mix thoroughly.
Wax (mastic) is applied to the surface to be treated with a thin, even
layer with a rag swab or a hard brush with a short
bristles. If the wax or mastic has hardened, they are preheated
to a temperature of 22-25°C, at which they become pasty.
After applying a layer of wax or mastic, the product is kept from 3 to 24 hours
(depending on the composition of the coating) until the wax is absorbed into the wood and
the turpentine will not completely evaporate. At the same time, on a waxed surface
dirty gray spots may appear, which over time during
subsequent processing disappear without a trace.
The dried waxed surface of the wood is rubbed along the fibers
cloth. At first, the cloth sticks to the mastic, but gradually the mastic
the layer and wood are heated from friction with a cloth, the surface of the product
becomes smoother. The rubbing is continued until the cloth is
stop sticking. After a few days, the rubbing is repeated, replacing
cloth flannel or suede. The wax coating will fade over time, but
its former appearance is restored after rubbing with a cloth. Sometimes
the wax coating is "fixed" with a thin layer of varnish, half
diluted with polish.

Ed. A. Bogdanova

For wood, I have been using Teak Oil on my products for a long time. It is sold in household stores and is intended to protect wood from external influences. It has a high penetrating power, highlights the texture of wood well and polymerizes quickly. You can also use Danish oil or at least a flask.

Teak Oil is teak oil, for lack of it, the name comes from the use of this type of oil to impregnate teak, which has been used in shipbuilding since ancient times due to its properties. This is a mixture of oils (each manufacturer has its own) based on linseed oil, which penetrates deep into the wood (in comparison with oils based on other bases) and, accordingly, protects the wood. It does not create a film on the surface, unlike Danish Oil.

Tree bronzing

With the help of a brush, objects made of wood are evenly coated with a diluted solution of liquid glass, after which they are sprinkled with golden bronze from a jar, the neck of which is tied with muslin. After drying, the bronze sticks to the object so strongly that its surface can be polished with agate. This method is recommended for bronzing picture frames and other objects.

wood waxing

For waxing expensive wooden furniture, there is a fairly simple way suitable for making wax. To do this, you need to take 100 grams of good yellow wax, which must be crushed and add 12 grams of mastic or 25 grams of powdered rosin to it. The listed substances are placed in a vessel and melted on fire. After the mass is melted, it is removed from the fire and 50 grams of warm turpentine are added to it. Everything is thoroughly mixed. It should be applied by rubbing the wood with a small amount of the resulting mixture using a woolen cloth. Wood treated in this way acquires a very beautiful and soft sheen.

Wood staining

There is the following method of coloring wood, which has the advantage over the traditional method of coloring, consisting in the fact that with this method the wood is impregnated with paints to a considerable depth, after which it can be polished without damaging the applied paint. The method is as follows. Having prepared a batter from rye, wheat or potato flour, spread it on a sheet of paper, cardboard or thin tin with a layer 0.5 mm thick. Paints are applied to this layer in the form of a powder or in the semi-liquid state in which they are used to prepare colored paper, after which everything is applied to the object to be painted; a perforated tin sheet is placed on top of paper or cardboard and fastened with brackets. In this form, all this is immersed in boiling water. Here, the dyes dissolve and impregnate the wood, and the dough hardens so firmly that it holds the superimposed paints side by side, preventing them from merging with each other. In this way, it is possible to paint a tree in different colors at the same time, without allowing the latter to merge; you can apply veins, drawings and so on in all kinds of colors. The deeper the paint must penetrate into the wood, the longer it is necessary to soak the objects in hot water. At the end of the staining process, the dough is washed off with water, and the painted surface is given time to dry well in a dark room. Instead of the direct use of dry paints in powder, for which all kinds of paints used in the dyeing business are suitable, another cheaper method can be used, which consists in pre-impregnating wood chips with paints and applying them to the liquid dough in the above way.

Preparation of wax polishes for polishing wood products

1) 25 weight parts of finely planed stearin are added to 12.5 parts of turpentine and the mixture is heated until the stearin is completely dissolved.

2) Dissolve 25 parts of wax in a glazed pot and then, when the wax has bloomed, the vessel is removed from the fire and 40 parts of turpentine are added to the wax.

3) Heating 10 parts of copal lacquer, add 40 parts of wax to it and, when the latter dissolves, add, gradually stirring, 75 parts of turpentine.

4) 30 parts of wax and 1.5 parts of rosin are dissolved on fire, then, removing the vessel from the fire, add 14.5 parts of turpentine.

5) 2.5 parts of potash are taken for 30 parts of water and boiled, after which 5 parts of finely planed wax are added and the whole mixture is heated until a homogeneous soapy mass is obtained.

Carpentry polish
(Polyure - A type of varnish, which is a solution of resinous substances in ethyl alcohol.)

Polish is selected according to the shade according to the color of the polished wood, from reddish-brown to white, or rather colorless. The desired shade is obtained by taking two basic polishes in different proportions.

Red-brown varnish
1 part red shellac, 4 parts alcohol.

white varnish
1 part bleached shellac, 5 parts alcohol.

Bleached shellac (Shellac - Resinous substance that is secreted by some insects - lac worms that live on the shoots of tropical plants, and which is used in the production of varnishes and varnishes) is prepared from ordinary as follows: 4 parts by weight of shellac are mixed with 1 part of soda and dissolved with stirring in 15 parts of water until the resin is completely dissolved, i.e. until the liquid is completely clear. Then they let it settle and pour the clear solution without sediment into another bowl. Here, a solution of 4 parts by weight of bleach in 4 parts by weight of water is added to the clear solution, and the mixture is left alone for two days. After that, hydrochloric acid is poured into the mixture little by little until the resin precipitate ceases to stand out. Then it remains only to rinse the resin residue well with water to remove traces of hydrochloric acid, and dry.

Turpentine pickle

(Staining - 1. A chemical used in industry for various purposes (cleaning and dyeing metals, wood, bone, leather processing, meat preservation, etc.). 2. A chemical preparation that serves to better fix paint on fibers, fabrics 3. Caustic substance for burning patterns on anything)

As you know, when etching wood, solutions of organic paints in water or alcohol are still used. This method has one significant drawback: the surface of the painted wood becomes rough from alcohol or water, as a result of which, after etching, it has to be smoothed with glass skin, while the applied paint is erased and a second coating is needed, which entails a new grinding, etc. until a perfectly smooth surface is obtained. But if in such solutions water or alcohol is replaced by turpentine, then a completely different effect is obtained. When using mordants on turpentine, the wood fibers do not swell at all, which eliminates the appearance of roughness, and therefore the need for grinding. Depending on the structure of the wood, whether it is finer or coarser, one or two coatings are sufficient to obtain the desired shade. The solutions themselves for walnut, rosewood, light or dark oak, and so on are prepared in the usual way with the replacement of water or alcohol with turpentine. So, to get a good mordant under the walnut tree, dissolve 600 grams of brown paint and 15 grams of orange in 1 liter of turpentine. Then the solution is filtered and a filtered solution of 100 grams of black paint in 3 liters of turpentine is added to it. If the resulting mordant turns out to be thick or inappropriate for the required tone, it is diluted with turpentine.

Waxing furniture parts consists in applying wax mastics to the surface of the wood with their further rubbing. Products made of porous wood (walnut, oak, beech) are mainly subject to wax finishing. Since wax mastic is a good filler, no primer is required for this finish. Before waxing, the surface is cleaned, sanded and lint removed (as described above). Waxing is done with cooled wax, which is applied to the wood with a brush with a stiff and short bristle. The coating should be uniform, without gaps. The applied wax layer is dried for 24 hours at a temperature of 18-20 °, while the surface becomes dark and dirty, after which it is rubbed with a cloth until the surface becomes clean, with an even sheen. To fix the finish, the finished piece of wood is varnished, diluted with polish in a ratio of 1: 1, or with shellac polish, in which 5-7% wax paste is dissolved.

Wax mastics (in parts by weight):

You can apply a simple composition for waxing, taking wax and turpentine in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, where to add a little rosin or stearin for shine. Turpentine can be replaced with gasoline, then the drying time will decrease from 2 days to 3 hours. To prepare mastic, wax, stearin and rosin are melted by heating to a temperature of 80-90 °. An aqueous solution of potash, oil varnish and soap shavings are successively added to the molten mixture, without stopping heating, with stirring. When the mixture is well mixed, pigment is added to it. Heating and stirring is continued until the mass becomes homogeneous. The cooled mastic applied to the wood is covered with shellac varnish in half with polish to make the surface resistant to dust, dampness and minor mechanical damage.

Wax mastics can be replaced by primers (liquid - for fine-pored wood, thick - for large-pored wood), which serve to improve the adhesion of wood to the finishing composition - varnishes, varnishes, etc. Often primers (light nitrocellulose varnishes, natural drying oil, shellac varnish) can themselves be finishing compositions.

Priming compositions for transparent coatings that do not hide the texture of wood are, in addition to wax, rosin-chalk primers, varnish mastics, a 10% solution of wood glue ("lendrik"), etc.

The simplest wax primer consists of 1-1.5 parts (by weight) of wax melted in a water bath and 2 parts of turpentine added to it. This primer is applied cold with a brush.

For a rosin-chalk primer, the following components are taken (in parts by weight): rosin + chalk + pure gasoline (15:30:55). First, rosin is dissolved in gasoline, then chalk is poured in, after which the composition is applied with a brush, and then rubbed strongly with a wool swab.

Fillers significantly reduce the consumption of varnishes and varnishes during finishing, improve the adhesion (adhesion) of varnish and wood. The most common fillers are pumice powder, talc, tripoli. Depending on the color of the furniture part, they can be colorless or tinted with various dry dyes.

One of the simple compositions of fillers: 6% PF-283 varnish is mixed with 8% white spirit and 86% of gypsum sifted through a nylon stocking is added to this composition, after which it is thoroughly mixed. This pasty mixture is rubbed into the pores of the wood with a swab or a hard brush. Excess is removed with a dry cloth. The drying time of such a paste is 2 days.

From drying oil, the surface acquires a yellowish tint, therefore, when restoring wooden products coated with nitro-lacquers, it is not used. Such surfaces are best primed with transparent nitro-lacquers NTs-218, NTs-222, etc. But when restoring surfaces previously covered with shellac polish, it is best to use the polish itself as a primer

For a transparent finish of furniture made of mahogany, walnut, rosewood, rosewood, Karelian birch, shellac lacquer and polish are used.

When the content of shellac (resin) in alcohol is 20-30% (by weight), the solution is called varnish. Alcohol is taken with a strength of 90-95%. When the shellac content is 8-15% and the alcohol strength is below 90%, the solution is called varnish. Many pieces of furniture, grand pianos, pianos are covered with black shellac polish containing nigrosine. With the advent of new synthetic coatings, shellac varnishes have become less common.

To seal knots, cracks, splits, crevices at the joints of the joints, it is necessary to use putties and putties, the binders for which are glues (carpentry, casein), varnishes and natural drying oil. Putties are used for opaque finishes and for sealing defective areas of the base before veneering.

Lacquering of furniture parts can be produced with the help of the following varnishes: a) alcohol, b) oil, c) nitrocellulose, d) turpentine-collokeyline, e) varnishes. Let's take a look at these technologies.

Alcohol varnishes consist of natural resins dissolved in raw ethyl alcohol. Lacquer is applied on a horizontal surface prepared for varnishing, dried and wiped from dust. Lacquers are applied along the fibers, without streaks, in one direction using a cotton swab in a canvas or linen sheath. When working with a tampon, stop the tampon or press too hard on it, as this will cause partial dissolution of the previously applied layer, sticking of the tampon to the surface and damage ("burn") of the coating. To reduce the risk of sticking, a few drops of vegetable or vaseline oil are applied to the sole of the tampon or to the surface to be trimmed. After spending one portion of the varnish, it is again poured into the tampon. You should not dip the tampon into the varnish, as this will lead to the mandatory appearance of streaks due to the uneven descent of the varnish from the tampon (there is always more varnish along the edges of the tampon, because a jelly-like mass is formed there from the lacquer lingering on the tampon, which accelerates worse over the surface, creating varnish stripes thicker than necessary). After applying the first layer of varnish, the surface is dried for 2 hours, and then sanded with sandpaper No. 180-200. After that, the surface is covered with a second, more liquid layer, spreading the varnish with polish in a ratio of 1: 2, after which it is dried and polished with pumice powder with water or kerosene. The powder is obtained by rubbing two pieces of pumice stone against each other. I sand easily, without pressure, so as not to injure the varnish film. After that, a third, and if necessary, a fourth layer of varnish is applied and sanded with sandpaper No. 220-320 using gasoline or kerosene as a coolant.

Oil varnishes are solutions of resins in drying oil or drying oil. The best varnish has always been copal, made from fossil resin of plant origin, hard, transparent, yellow, or reddish in color with a conchoidal fracture.

The first layer of varnish is applied to the surface, which is pre-cleaned (blown with air or wiped with suede). Apply varnish with a brush evenly over the entire surface. Excess varnish is collected with a brush and shaded. Then the lacquer layer is dried until the film tacks off, after which it is sanded with sandpaper No. 140 along the wood fibers with smooth movements with a little pressure. Before applying the second layer of varnish, the surface is again wiped with suede or blown with air. The second layer is applied similarly to the first, dried and polished with a cloth or felt (pumice powder poured onto a surface moistened with water), periodically cleaning the surface to be sanded with a damp sponge. After grinding, the product is wiped dry with suede. Apply the third layer in the same way. Then the surface is polished with a swab, into which alcohol is poured, and a few drops of oil are dripped onto the swab. Polishing is carried out in a circular motion until a mirror surface is obtained, which is wiped with a clean, dry flannel and dried.

Nitrocellulose varnishes are a solution of nitrocellulose in organic solvents with the addition of resins, plasticizers and pigments. Nitrolacques No. 754, 759 and others are used, which are dissolved with thinners No. 646,647, AMR. Nitro-lacquer is applied with a spray gun using a compressor or (at home) using a vacuum cleaner on a surface primed with a special primer, at a room temperature of at least 18 ° C and a relative humidity of not more than 60%. The working viscosity of the applied nitro-lacquer should be no more than 6-10 seconds. After applying the first layer, the surface is dried for 1 hour, then sanded with sandpaper No. 120-140. The second and third layers of varnish are applied in the same way. Drying times for coatings are from 30 to 120 minutes. After the fourth coating, the surface is dried for 24 hours and polished with sandpaper No. 150-180, abundantly wetting the skin with gasoline or kerosene. After grinding, the surface is wiped dry with a soft, clean cloth and polished with a swab. Soaked in a polishing liquid of the following composition (in parts by weight): 1 part of rectified ethyl alcohol + 1 part of solvent No. 646. Polishing is done with quick circular movements. For glossiness, the polished surface is treated with 5-8% alcohol shellac polish without pumice with a small amount of oil. Then wipe the surface with pure rectified ethyl alcohol.

Turpentine-colloxyl varnishes (varnishes of the TK grades) create films that are easily polished with polish and alcohol. For high-quality wood finishing, TK-3 varnish is used, which is applied to a surface that is not primed or primed only with oil, casein or casein-rosin primers. It must not be applied to surfaces primed with wax or wax substitutes. By industry, the varnish is already produced in states of working viscosity, but if necessary, it can be diluted with solvent No. 646.

Before applying the coating, the surface is leveled by wet grinding. Then the lacquer film is polished with TK-1 polish or alcohol using a cotton-woolen or wool swab in a canvas or linen sheath, into which a polishing liquid is introduced. 2-3 drops of vaseline oil are applied to the surface of the swab. Polishing is performed using the same technology and the same techniques as with shellac polish.

With a lower quality finish, TK-2 varnish is used, the finishing technology of which is the same as for finishing with nitro-varnishes. This varnish can be used as a primer for high quality wood finishes.

Polish TK-1 replaces shellac polish and can also be used as a primer under shellac polish and for polishing coatings with varnishes TK-2 and TK-3. Before use, TK-1 polish is diluted with ethyl alcohol to a working consistency.

Polishing with polish consists in the gradual repeated application of the thinnest layers of polish, which gives the treated surface a stable mirror finish and reveals the color and texture of the wood. Shellac polish is considered the best. Polished with a swab of soft woolen cloth or a ball of wool or cotton wool wrapped in an old washed cloth. When polishing, the surface of the swab is moistened with a small amount of polish. After filling the tampon, they make a test smear (las) on the surface. With proper filling of the tampon, the las should disappear quickly. With excessive filling of the swab, the smear turns out to be greasy, slowly drying - it is impossible to polish with such a swab. The polishing process consists of four operations: priming, 1st, 2nd and 3rd polishing.

Primed with 10% polish. The first and second polishing is carried out with 8% polish. 3rd polishing is done with 5-7% polish. The pace of movement of the tampon, calm when priming, increases when polishing. In order for the tampon to glide better on the polished surface, 2-3 drops of vaseline, linseed or sunflower oil are applied to its sole. Change the oil only when the movement of the swab is difficult. First primed with clean polish, and then with powdering the surface of the wood or swab with pumice powder, poured into a bag of thin dense fabric.

It should be primed until the pores are completely closed and until a shine appears on the wood. After drying, the primed surface is sanded with sandpaper No. 325-400 or pumice powder with linseed oil.

Polishingswab:
a - polishing technique with the formation of a pass, b - pattern of movements with a tampon when it is normally moistened, c - also, with excessive moisture, d - the same, with a dried tampon

Between the individual polishing operations, the surface is subjected to a significant exposure. After all the layers of polishing, they proceed to the final operation - polishing with pure ethyl alcohol with the addition of powder from burnt dolomite, doing this with quick movements using a swab in the form of eights.

The most durable and moisture-resistant coatings with a strong, hard gloss form oil varnishes, but their disadvantages include long-term drying (up to 48 hours). These varnishes are recommended for all types of wood. Apply them with a swab or brush 1-2 times.

Alcohol varnishes give an elastic film with a softer sheen than oil varnishes, but less water resistant. Shellac varnishes are considered the best, drying in 1.5-2 hours.

Nitro-varnishes form a fairly resistant film with a strong sheen, quite water-resistant, more durable than that of alcohol-based varnishes. Nitro-varnishes dry in 15-20 minutes. They are applied to all types of wood 3-5 times, more often with brushes, but it is better to spray them with spray guns (pistols), but the room should be often ventilated or have forced ventilation.

Wood is the best building material, but it requires care, otherwise it loses its properties. Many may have heard of such a process as wood waxing. But what is it? This is protection from any external influences and maintaining the original state of the material.

A variety of components can be used in the process. One such option is wax or oil. The first brings more effect, because its properties are the most suitable for creating a protective barrier. Is it possible to do this process with your own hands? If you understand this issue, then everyone will be able to cope with the task.

What do you need to know?

Wax is used today in many areas - medicine, cosmetology and even industry. Its composition is varied and rich, which makes its qualities irreplaceable. Although under some influences, the properties begin to tolerate changes, but not too strong. What made it so popular:

Fire resistance.
Improving the quality of wood waxing.
Barrier to water.
Gives shine. The material changes its appearance to a more prestigious one.

At the same time, everyone can prepare a composition for waxing wood with their own hands, but it is easier to purchase a finished product. For many years, such compositions have been used in industry, and turpentine has been used as an additive. Today it is not relevant due to the strong smell. Waxing wood allows you not only to change the appearance, but also to remove small scratches and minor cracks, adding shine.

What is the advantage of such compositions? Masters say that after this treatment, rotting and the formation of fungus do not occur. Sometimes wood is used in places where there are chemical exposures, but the wax helps keep it from breaking down. It is wood waxing that helps to fully protect the original characteristics. In addition, the surface becomes smoother and more delicate to the touch.

What do you need to work?

It is now known that waxing wood with wax is the creation of a reliable protection for the tree. Also, this option is budgetary, and if desired, you can change the shade of the design. Masters believe that any tree is subjected to such processing, which brings him only benefit. In order for waxing wood with wax to turn out to be of high quality, you need to purchase:

Grout paper.
Wax itself.
Sharp knife.
Cleaner (solvent is fine).
brush.
Cloth.
Brush.

The tree is fibrous, so over time it shrinks, and when exposed to moisture, on the contrary, it swells. The main task of protective equipment is to protect the surface from these phenomena.

How is it applied?

You need to start waxing wood with your own hands only after you have detailed instructions on hand. The operation takes place in several steps:

If the surface has been treated with something, then it must be removed using a solvent. After it is washed with water. If this does not help much, sandpaper and a knife are used. After such work, the old coating may fill in the cracks. You need to take a brush and clean it. Only then waxing wood with beeswax can begin.
Then you have to wait until the surface is completely dry, otherwise it will not be possible to complete the application. In the process of work, you will need to take a special cloth. Then there are those places where there are cracks and corners, after already over the entire area. To speed up the work, you need to use a brush. You should walk along the grain of the tree.
Now it takes time to dry. Wax should be completely absorbed, if something remains, then wipe it with a rag. Particular attention is paid to the cracks, otherwise the surface will be unevenly processed. This is the only way to achieve reliability and durability. To make it beautiful, it is better to perform this procedure twice. Sometimes a film begins to form, but this should not be allowed. You have to go through the brush.

The whole process is carried out carefully so as not to cause damage. There is nothing special about these steps, but if you make mistakes, you will not be able to achieve the desired result. Damage to furniture by performing such a process is difficult. After such a procedure, the impact of external factors on the treated surface becomes minimal. Sometimes they make additives of different means, but extremely rarely.

What other means are there?

In addition to simple wax, mastic can be found on sale. Its range of applications is extensive. There are several options for impregnation:

In the form of a paste.
Like cream.
Oily.

Not every wooden furniture fully absorbs wax. To avoid misfires, you will have to fully prepare the surface. Preparation is considered an important element. Cracks are cleaned, cracks are cleaned. If the grinding process is applied, the surface becomes more suitable.

If there are stains or any stains on the surface, then it will not be possible to remove them with mastic. On sale there are special tools that can remove these "misunderstandings" before starting work. As a result, the composition for waxing wood can be very diverse, a lot depends on the manufacturer. To cope with the work, you need to have a brush on hand. And if the composition is not too liquid, then you can’t do without cloth. If the wax mass is too thick, then it is diluted with water. An interesting option is the colored mass.

Helpful information

To apply materials such as wax, you need to know that it is quite suitable for exterior and interior decoration. The only exception is the prohibition of location in those places where there is an open fire. To make the tree fully processed, you need to prepare:

Wax itself.
Liquid and white composition.
Paraffin.
Oil-wax.
Turpentine.
Paints.

Even scratches will not appear on the surface of furniture with such a protective layer. The effect of this is great, so this treatment has been used for more than one year.

Are there recipes?

Everyone is trying to extend the life of their furniture, so there are many recipes. It is not always necessary to purchase ready-made compositions - you can make them yourself. The quality of the impregnation will not change from this, so you can start cooking yourself. The recipe for waxing wood with beeswax is simple:

Wax (simple bees), drying oil and turpentine. But you need to have certain proportions. These are four, three and six parts. Thanks to these indicators, it will be possible to achieve the desired consistency.
If the wax is not melted, then it is not so easy to mix everything. But it is difficult to heat it on an open fire - it loses its qualities. The most suitable option is to create a water bath. So, pour water into any container, and wax into a smaller one. They put a container of water on the fire, and already with the main material on it. It turns out heating for a couple.
After that, you need to mix the whole composition thoroughly. Do not waste time, otherwise the mass will begin to harden. When everything is done, the resulting components are left to solidify.

Where can it be applied?

The resulting mass is suitable for parquet, solid wood furniture. It helps to give gloss and protect the surface from all sorts of influences. There are many methods for applying wax to different surfaces, but it is worth taking the main one as a basis and using it.

Shades

Of course, wax is considered a protective compound, but sometimes it is easy to remove scratches and minor cracks with it. Often white or yellow wax is used so as not to change the shade of the tree, but simply to emphasize and highlight its naturalness. When the furniture is already old, you need to slightly change its color, then wax in color comes to the rescue.

But in order to create the desired color scheme, it is worth understanding what types of wood are suitable for this. For oak, there are some requirements, for pine - others. But there is one feature: you can not use such compositions for chairs, so as not to get dirty. There are no more restrictions during the operation of waxed furniture.

Conclusion

So, we found out how wood is protected with wax. Today it is one of the available materials. Waxing is a simple process, but it must be carried out over the entire surface. This is the only way to protect the material efficiently and effectively from the negative effects of moisture, etc.