A switch with three keys allows you to control three groups of light bulbs at once, which allows you to illuminate several adjacent rooms through one electrical output point, set up several light zones in a room, or please yourself with a fashionable three-level chandelier.

However, despite the external complexity, even a beginner can connect and install a three-gang switch. The main thing is to have detailed instructions in front of you, prepare everything you need and not neglect safety precautions. Below about all this in order.

We study the device and the principle of operation

The presence of three buttons on the switch body provides undeniable advantages:

• Aesthetic appearance;
• No need to make several holes in the wall for three connection points;
• Multifunctionality;
• Saving electricity by using a local group of light bulbs instead of a general one;
• Quick and easy installation;
• Possibility of spot lighting of premises of complex layout.

Among the shortcomings, one can note a greater intensity of operation compared to analogues with one or two keys. Therefore, you can not choose a cheap device in order to protect your health, property and not repeat manipulations with the installation.

Despite the wide range of models presented in stores - equipped with a socket, backlight, touch control, decorative pattern - the interior of the devices is mostly identical to any light switch. The difference is only in the number of outgoing contacts of the switching groups.

We prepare tools and consumables

Do-it-yourself switch installation will not do without some tools and consumables. So, in the connection process, you will need a Phillips, flat and indicator screwdrivers, pliers, a sharp knife (for stripping insulation) and a connector (terminals, connecting blocks or a soldering iron with solder).

If you plan to start mounting the switch from scratch, you will have to make channels in the wall with a drill or puncher, run the wire of the required length and fix it with clamps.

In both cases, it is necessary to prepare the switch itself in advance. If the main question is “how to replace the old switch with your own hands”, then when buying a new copy, it is better to pay attention to the most similar devices.

Starting the installation

Before proceeding directly to the installation and connection, it is necessary to find out how to disassemble the three-gang switch and not damage the case and the internal structure.

To do this, we do the following:

• Remove the central key, using the special gap under the plate, where you need to insert the tip of the screwdriver and lift it up.
• Carefully remove the adjacent buttons with your hands.
• Pry off the side latches on the case and remove the decorative cover from the device.
• Inspect the product and find four contacts: single on top and triple on the bottom.

When removing the frame and keys, it is important not to apply excessive force, as it is easy to damage the fragile element and spoil the appearance of the entire device.

If, nevertheless, the case was damaged, you can use a trick: buy a similar switch of a different color and change the damaged outer shell for a whole one, resulting in a beautiful and interesting decorative element.

Connecting to the network

For efficient and optimal operation of the device, you need to correctly select the appropriate three-gang switch circuit. In any case, four cores should come out of the wall: one - phase (often carried out separately) - is “sent” to the junction box, and the remaining three cores (marked in different colors on the diagram) are connected to groups of light bulbs.

It is important to first de-energize the network by unscrewing the plugs or turning off all the machines in the apartment. Also, with open access to the shield by unauthorized persons, it is recommended to warn other residents and neighbors about carrying out repair work with electricity, and even better, hang a warning sign in a conspicuous place.

In more detail, the connection of the three-gang switch is as follows:

• Verify that there is no voltage by using an indicator screwdriver.
• Determine where the phase, zero and ground are in the incoming wiring (if the marking was observed when laying the network, then blue indicates zero, green - protective, otherwise you will have to turn on the network and determine the phase with an indicator screwdriver).
• Strip all wires one centimeter.
• Connect the phase of the supply wire from the junction box to the common contact of the device (single on top).
• Connect the zero of the main wire to the neutral conductors of all lighting groups.
• Fasten the remaining wires in pairs: one wire of the switch with one lamp, the second with the second, the third with the third.
• Make sure that the screws and terminals fit snugly on the wires, for which you can try to “loosen” them.
• It is desirable to connect the wires with WAGA terminals and perform the usual twisting with insulating tape.
• Insert the switch core into the socket.
• Fix the device with screws or special “lugs”.
• Check the correct connection by referring to the diagram.
• Attach the protective cover.
• First insert the side keys (it is important not to miss the placed grooves and buttons), and then install the central plate.

We check the quality of installation

An intermediate check of the reliability of the terminals, the conformity of wires and markings, the absence of bends, breaks should be carried out at each stage of work. The control check consists in turning on the electricity in the apartment and turning on each key in turn.

If, after turning on the machine, the network is not cut off in emergency mode, and when each button is pressed, only one group of lamps is turned on, everything is done correctly.

If the light went out again, sparks appeared, an unpleasant smell appeared, or one key starts several lamps at once, you need to disassemble the device again and check the wire connection.

Photos of three-gang switches attract with their modernity and versatility, so it is not surprising that many would like to replace old copies with new models. If you are one of them, then you can proceed with the implementation of your plans - all the necessary information, supported by the scheme and recommendations.

Photo of three-gang switches

The switch is the main device designed to control the lighting in the apartment. A few years ago, a triple switch was a rarity in homes, but now it is very popular among the population. There is a huge range of such devices that differ in design and modification. The practicality of its application lies in the possibility of regulating three light sources from one control point. If there is a need for such devices, then you need to know how to properly connect a triple switch.

Areas of use

Interior designers are increasingly offering to distinguish between light groups. Multi-level ceilings, arches, niches require separate lighting. Modern studio apartments, divided into zones, provide slightly subdued light in the recreation area, bright lighting in the functional area near the computer, bookcase, chairs. In the living area, where there is a TV, a sofa and a dining table, you can use a combined light.

How to connect a triple light switch so that it is convenient to use? It will fit:

• in the corridor to connect to the lighting of three rooms at once - a bathroom, a toilet and a kitchen, if they are close to each other;
• if the room has a multi-track chandelier or combined lighting (main and additional);
• when the ceiling is made in several levels;
• if it consists of three parts;
• if you want to control the lighting of three rooms from one point.

Benefits of using

Why is it beneficial to put a triple switch? How to connect it to get benefits?

1. Ergonomics - one device looks more beautiful instead of three.
2. Profitability of cable laying - less financial and labor costs will be required.
3. The need for one hole in the wall, instead of three.
4. Economical in energy consumption, since full lighting with all the bulbs is not always required, sometimes you can get by with a part.

Types of triple switches

Before installing the switch, you need to decide what function is required of it, based on this, choose the type:

• Ordinary.
• With a light indicator - serve as a beacon to find the switch or signal in which rooms the light is on.

• With a socket - usually used in the corridor near the sanitary rooms.
• Concealed design - to place the working part inside the wall.
• External execution - for placement of the case on a wall.

Criterias of choice

With all the variety of switches on the market, it is recommended to adhere to certain points:

1. Models with Modern convenient way to fix wires in the device.
2. No external damage - scratches, cracks, chips.
3. Reliable terminals that can firmly fix the wires.
4. Accurate operation of the keys with a characteristic click, without jamming.
5. The presence on the back of the device of the diagram, how to connect a triple switch.

Switch device

The principle of operation of the triple switch is no different from the double and single. Pressing the key to the "On" position closes the contact of the lighting circuit, voltage appears on the lighting device, and the light bulb lights up. Switching the key to the "Off" position opens the contact and the light goes out. So on each of the three keys. The switch consists of:

• protective part - keys and frames;
• working part - a mechanism for fixing wires and housing.

Switch connection

According to electrical safety, before working with wires, it is necessary to turn off the voltage by turning off the power switch. Before that, determine the wires with phase and zero using a voltage indicator.

If there is a hidden switch, then first of all you need to drill a technical hole for the socket with a drill with a special cone nozzle. A socket box is inserted into this opening, for a more durable installation of which an alabaster solution is used.

A copper four-core cable with a core cross section of 1.5 mm 2 is connected to this hole. It is recommended to process the ends of the wires. First, strip the insulation with a sharp knife or stripper. Then put on them tips corresponding to the terminals on the electrical device, and crimp them with a special hand tool - a crimper. If the crimper is not at hand, you can get by with a soldering iron, twisting the fibers of the core with your fingers and irradiating them. The simplest option is to simply insert the stripped ends of the wires into the clamping devices of the triple switch.

How to connect? The first core is connected to phase B on one side and to the common contact in the switch from the other end. Three other wires - to the three terminals of the switch, located opposite the common contact at one end, and each wire to the phase terminal of its lighting device (one of the three) from the other end of the cable. This can be seen in the wiring diagram of the triple switch. How to connect, see here.

Three coming from lighting fixtures are connected to each other and to zero coming from the automatic power supply.

There should be eight wires in the junction box - three of them come from the power supply (phase, zero and ground). Zero and ground go further to lighting fixtures, and three phase wires connected to three chandeliers are also connected to three wires that came from a triple switch. How to connect - detailed in the diagram.

In old wiring, the neutral wires were often twisted directly in the switch socket, behind the working device, and not in the junction box. Some electricians still practice this method to do without additional nodes in the circuit. Thus, there is no need to install a box, which is important for maintaining the appearance of the room, especially with expensive wall decoration.

An important rule is that the switch must always open the phase.

Connecting a switch with a socket

How to connect a triple switch with a socket? The diagram is shown below.

It is distinguished by the presence of another neutral wire that goes directly from the power supply and connects directly to the outlet. Such a device is used in the corridor, next to the sanitary facilities where a socket is needed, but it is not advisable to make another technical hole separately for the socket. It is also used when the socket is rarely needed, because the switch is usually mounted high from the floor level, and the electrical connector is just above the baseboard. And how to connect a triple switch with a socket so that it is convenient to use both the connector and the keys? You can choose the optimal height for comfortable operation of the device individually.

Undoubtedly, it is very convenient for controlling the light in the apartment. It is necessary to follow the rules of electrical safety when installing it, that is, before work, turn off the automatic power supply and check the absence of voltage with an indicator. After work, check the connection according to the diagram again and only then apply voltage to the network.

It takes one switch to turn on one light bulb. To turn on the chandelier, they usually put beautiful two- or three-key devices. But it's not three switches in one box. A three-key switch can turn on a three-light chandelier as a whole, but only all the bulbs together or separately, as you like. Or turn on three different lamps in the room from one point. Or different lamps in three different places, for example, one switch per lamp in the hallway, bathroom and toilet.

And it's very economical. At least you can save on wire. Well, turn on / off not everything at once, but specifically as much as necessary

Device and circuit

This is a box made of an insulator (fireproof plastic), in which a triple mechanism for opening / closing contacts is installed, terminals for connecting wires: a common wire (phase from an automatic machine or a junction box), three wires after opening, going to lamps.

There is also a fastening mechanism and external protective and decorative elements: a plastic frame-panel and keys that can be easily removed and installed on latches.

To connect the lighting of three rooms or a chandelier with three groups of light bulbs to a triple switch, you must first prepare the wiring and the mounting hole for the switch. It should turn out as shown in the diagram.

In the diagram shown, the neutral wire is routed through the junction box to all lamps (through the ceiling or the upper horizontal gate), and the phase is connected to the switch. After the switch, each of the wires brings the phase to its lamp, that is, three strokes are made - one for each lamp. This is not always good.

Wiring through junction box

It is better to bring all three phase wires to the junction box again with the same one stroke, and then bring them to the lamps along the common upper stroke. If we are wiring to the chandelier, then the last option is the best.

L - phase to the switch (red);
then the phase (yellow, brown, pink) goes to three groups of chandelier lamps;
N - working zero (blue), goes immediately
on the chandelier and bred by the terminal block of the chandelier in groups;
PE - ground (yellow-green),
connected to the body of the chandelier

Thus, before connecting the triple switch, it is necessary to prepare all the wiring.

All work should be carried out with the power supply of the lighting network turned off by automatic machines. To search for zero and phase, the power is turned on, but after finding them with an indicator and marking, it turns off again.

1. Search for existing wiring: you need to find a junction box, lines that will participate in the wiring. It is necessary to mark the walls for processing. A place is planned for the hole where the three-gang switch will be installed, and for wiring to and from it.
2. Opening existing channels and punching new ones.
3. Laying and securing cables from the box to the installation site. Wires for phase, zero and ground (if any) should be marked. If possible, you need to adhere to the standard colors of the wires: blue for zero, yellow-green for grounding and other colors for the phase.
4. Installation and fixing of socket boxes. Wires are held inside them.

• Determine the wires in the junction box to which to wire. Phase and zero are indicator. They are marked (with electrical tape).

This work is carried out after the inspection made sure that the previous actions did not cause damage to the wiring. After that, the automatic lighting network is turned on and the phase of the wires of the junction box is determined, to which it is necessary to make a connection. The wires are marked, after which the power is turned off again.

• The wires of the new wiring are connected to the junction box, their ends are securely insulated with special caps.

To check the correct connection, turn on the machine again and, making sure that everything is fine, check the phase on all wires. It should be on only one phase wire going through the socket to the switch. The rest should be zero: on the neutral wires going to the lamps, on the ground wires and phase wires going from the switch to the lamps, since they are open.

1. Turning off the machine again, you can connect the switch by connecting the wires to the terminals according to the connection diagram. After that, the switch can be put in its place, fixed in the socket according to the design.
2. Wires are connected to lamp sockets or chandelier terminal blocks. Two wires must be suitable for each cartridge - zero and open phase.

Before connecting each wire to a chandelier or lamp, you need to know exactly which of them are zero (coming from the junction box, blue according to the norm) and which are phase. Color identification of each wire helps. But in order for them to connect correctly, it is necessary to turn on the machine to determine and check each of them in turn with an indicator, including the corresponding button of the three-button switch.

After installing and checking that all lamp units are connected, the work can be considered completed.

How to connect a three-gang switch with a socket

When the triple switch in the hallway becomes a kind of control panel, from where you can turn on the light in three rooms that are very important for life at once - the bathroom, the toilet and the hallway itself, the opportunity to modernize it immediately suggests itself. Usually, an outlet is installed in the corridor for various everyday needs - a vacuum cleaner, for example. This is, as a rule, the center of the apartment, and from here you can reach out with a vacuum cleaner on a long wire to all its remote corners.

In such a case, manufacturers have already come up with and are producing a triple switch with a socket. The addition does not complicate the circuit very much, but there is a nuance.

The socket is supplied with phase (red wire) and zero (blue) from the distribution box.

Now there are more wires in our loop, there are five of them. And if earlier, without a socket, only a phase without a neutral wire went into the switch, there was less chance of a short circuit. Having the case of a triple switch with a socket, it was now necessary to apply a neutral wire here as well. And this dramatically increased the risk of incorrect connection and short circuit, which is not good.

The switch is considered the main device that helps in controlling lighting. Today, the following types of it are common: single, double and triple. The last type is designed to connect several lamps, that is, for combined lighting.

Applications, benefits and uses

A three-gang switch with a socket, despite its ease of operation, is rarely mounted. The connection diagram of a three-key switch with a socket is more complicated than usual, because there are three contacts going to the lighting device at once. This block has many functions and takes up minimal space, since three devices are located in one case at once.

The socket is a separate device. Although it is located in the same building, it works independently. "Zero" from the junction box goes to it, and the "phase" is connected from the switch jumper.

Among the advantages of such a three-key switch are:

• saving electricity;
• compactness;
• the ability to control lighting in various rooms;
• easy regulation and switching of the light source (if dimmers are not used);
• the possibility of combining lighting.

The use of a three-gang switch is necessary for:

• changes in lighting intensity;
• control of several lamps at the same time.

If the device is equipped with a block with a socket, then it is considered the most functional.

Device types

The range of blocks is diverse, it is always possible to find a product that matches the interior of the room. Such devices may differ in functionality.

According to this criterion, they are divided into:

1. Ordinary. Some of them have an indication, it indicates the location or the included key, they work in the dark;
2. Checkpoints. They are installed in a long corridor, on stairs, etc. With their help, they control lamps located in various places.

Note! When choosing, it is necessary to visually inspect the product. It should not have burrs, wear and damage. Clicks should be heard when switching keys.

The device has self-clamping lemmas. They are necessary for fixing and connecting wires. When pulling out the cores (which is strictly prohibited), special latches-clamps fail.

Connection Features

There are many models of a three-gang switch with a socket, but its connection remains unchanged. The unit should be wired in exactly the same way as a single or double model. The power cable is connected to the input of the device itself, and the wires run from the contact of the block with the switch to the light bulbs. Their number must match the device keys.

Basically, the socket is equipped with a separate neutral wire and, according to the diagram, is not connected to the switch, but they have a common “phase”. All "zeros" from the lamps and the outlet itself are connected to the junction box. "Phase" is brought to the common contact included in the switch. Lighting wires are placed on separate blocks. It is from them that the voltage is transmitted to the light bulbs. At the ends of the cores, the insulation is removed, approximately 10 mm. Since the contacts are tightened with clamps, and the wire may break, such devices will prevent this from happening.

Basically, the switch box is mounted on the wall, in a special niche. For these purposes, calipers or spacer legs are used, and a decorated frame is already put on top.

Usually a switch with keys and a socket is installed near the door of the room. The unit helps to change the lighting and connect various household appliances used for the bathroom or toilet.

The junction box has 5 connections. The ground wire must always go to the outlet. If the lamp has metal parts, then it is necessary to protect against electric shock. There is a special screw connection for this.

Connection Methods

There are two main schemes for connecting a three-gang switch, one requiring a junction box (for twisting the wires), and the other - the connection is located in the block for switches. Let's consider each scheme separately.

With junction box

How to connect a three-gang switch with a socket in this case? The basic rules to follow are as follows:

• they dismantle the old block, after that 5 wires stick out of the wall;
• turn off the current;
• straighten all the wiring, supply power;
• using the indicator, they find the “phase” (L), which is located on only one core;
• look for "null" (N);
• both wires are connected to the outlet, with L - to the contact that goes to the switch jumper, and N - to the free one;
• the other 3 wires lead to the remaining contacts;
• When you switch the keys, the lights should light up.

On a note. Dismantling involves removing the old switch, cleaning the niche and wires, checking the wiring. Only after that they begin to install a new device.

Before starting work, it is first determined whether N or L breaks in the room with the help of a switch. Basically, it should be a “phase”. If this is not the case, then "L" passes from the junction box to the luminaire. That is why "zero" is supplied from the switches. In such an incorrect version, in a socket with a block of switches, N and L are interchanged.

Without junction box

Consider how to connect the unit with the outlet directly. When dismantling the old node from the wall, 8 wires will appear. If they are the same color, then proceed as follows:

• de-energize the line;
• carefully straighten the wires and make sure that the bare ends do not touch;
• they find a two-wire wire (power is supplied from it to the unit and to the lighting), for this, voltage is applied and the “phase” is determined by the indicator;
• de-energize the line and mark the found wire (you can use electrical tape);
• looking for "zero";
• 6 twin-core wires stick out of the wall, which are necessary for three lamps (kitchen, bathroom, toilet);
• each has its own "phase" and "zero";
• one core is taken from each of them and connected to N coming from the junction box;
• “zero” is applied to the socket contact from this connection (it is without a jumper);
• N is connected to the outlet and goes to all lamps;
• found L, coming from the shield, is connected to the outlet (second contact);
• other wires going to the lamps lead to 3 contacts (switch block).

Important! Such a scheme has a drawback: twisted "zero" conductors, which must be hidden in the switch block with a socket.

Mounting errors

Many are wondering how to connect a three-gang switch with a socket so that the work is done efficiently and everything functions correctly. Often, when connecting the socket block with the switch, something goes wrong, as a result, the chandelier does not light up.

Consider the errors that can occur when connecting devices:

1. The socket works, but the switch does not. If you mixed up the "phase" and "zero", then this will happen. That is, L instead of N is launched on the common line of the switch by a jumper. To correct the situation, it is necessary to check everything with an indicator and redo it;
2. When installing the block connections or replacing the old one, check the voltage in the wires. Often, electricians run separate wires on the device, and there are two power supplies at the same time. Therefore, by assembling the sample according to the scheme, a short circuit is often created;
3. Two keys do not work until the third one is pressed. This means that the “phase” was connected incorrectly. Instead of a general input, it is launched to the output of the third key. To correct the indicator, it is necessary to check the voltage of the contacts. If it lights up in all cases, it means that the switch breaks the "zero", that is, someone threw the wires in the shield. To fix, unscrew the bulbs and check the "phase" conductors. They find "zero" (common) and transfer it to the central contact of the three-gang switch;
4. Electricians do not recommend leaving the socket device in the block connected via one key, although this is convenient, since when pressed, the light disappears. This is due to the fact that various household appliances are often connected to the outlet, for example, a hair dryer from 1.5 to 2 kW. Extension cords or tees can also be connected here. The contacts of the device are not designed for this voltage. In the best case, the unit will turn off and stop working, in the worst case, a fire will occur.

Manufacturers

Basically, the consumer makes a choice in favor of an aesthetic model, it all depends on the interior design in the apartment. In the event that the design is "antique", then the choice should be stopped on Fede models.

The triple switch with Gira socket has a sophisticated design and is in great demand. Legrand models are perfect for any interior, as they have a horizontal and vertical design.

ABB supplies the market with a wide range of switch boxes with LED sockets. They give functionality to aesthetics.

The Russian manufacturer Kuntsevo-Electro produces combined models. You can find a single block made of plastic with a vertical installation. Models with triple switches and a socket are available: without a grounding contact, with a red backlight or with a Euro socket with protective shutters.

Important! All switches have a voltage of 220 V, and the rated load is from 10 to 16 A.

The switch of which manufacturer to choose, the buyer decides.

This is how they install a three-gang switch with a socket on their own. If there is no experience in this matter, it is better to contact a specialist. Not only will he do everything quickly, but he will also help you choose the best devices, advise where to mount them, and check all the electrics in the apartment.

Video

In order to save a little electricity, as well as control different levels of lighting from one place, three-key light switches were created. They are often used in houses and apartments, because. really comfortable and easy to use. Connecting a triple model is more difficult than a single one, so this article provides you with video and photo examples, as well as a connection diagram for a three-gang light switch.

Application feature

A person, without realizing it, uses much more light sources than he really needs. The level of illumination that he involuntarily uses may be half that. If a person stops consuming excess electricity and turning off unnecessary light bulbs, this will save up to 30% of the electricity used. It is for these cases that the triple switch is used, shown in the photo below. The connection of a three-key device is carried out, as a rule, to a chandelier to control any type of lighting: decorative, main and additional. Most often, the main lighting is used, and the remaining keys are applied as needed.

Also, often the connection of a three-key model is used to control the lighting of different rooms from one place. For example, a triple model can be installed in the corridor to turn on the light in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet, or instead of the kitchen in the corridor itself. It is very convenient and, moreover, this idea allows you to save on electrical installation (instead of installing three separate products, only one will be involved).

Installation instructions

So, the connection diagram of a three-gang light switch is as follows:

Six wires come from the bulbs to the junction box. Of these, three are interconnected and connected to the neutral conductor (this working zero comes from the shield,). Those three wires from the junction box, which remained unused, are connected to the outputs of the device. Then, from the junction box, you need to connect the phase, which will be the same for the three light sources. The connection is made to the switch. If grounding is provided, the yellow-green wires from the lamps must also be connected to each other. All connections are recommended to be made using.

This diagram clearly shows how a three-key type of switch can be connected and how a certain light bulb lights up when the contact is closed:

The three-gang switch on the inside looks like this: the case describes and shows in detail where each wire should be connected and where the phase should be taken. The scheme of the device on the back looks like this:

The video instructions clearly show how to connect a triple light switch to the network:

A triple device can work according to this principle: connecting one lamp to the first key allows you to turn on the first light source, the second key - these are two lamps, and the third one turns on additional lighting, in the form of a sconce. Such a connection makes it possible to combine up to seven types of lighting in a room and one three-key device can do this.

There is also a triple release, which is placed with a socket in one housing. Thanks to this design, you can save on the installation of electrical wiring, as the work is concentrated in one place. The connection diagram of a three-gang switch with a socket in one housing is shown below:

This scheme has a slight difference from the previous one. The difference is that in this case, a neutral wire is added, which goes from the junction box to the outlet. This version is used in places where the socket is used infrequently, such as in the bathroom.

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Recently, in order to rationally use electricity, many plan to connect a three-gang switch. With it, you can easily control parts of the lighting. It is no longer necessary for all the lights to be on at the same time. If necessary, you can now turn on the lighting in the area where it will be needed. To implement this process, you will need a three-gang switch.

In this article, you will learn how to connect a three-gang switch. For you, we have placed about its device and connection diagram.

Three-gang switch in everyday life

Today, many people use a large number of light sources in their home. Their number can sometimes exceed twice the human need. After conducting research, it was possible to find out that if a person stops lighting extra lamps, then he can save electricity by 30%. On the other hand, a three-gang switch allows you to make the house much more comfortable.

The device of the three-gang switch is quite simple. But thanks to its simple design, it allows you to solve most problems. With it, you can divide your room into several illuminated zones. Thanks to him, you can turn on additional lighting only when necessary.

Scheme of a three-gang switch

The connection diagram of a three-gang switch is as follows:

As you can see, according to this scheme, six wires will be included in the junction box. Three of these wires must be interconnected. After this, you need to connect the wires to the neutral wire. The three wires that remain must be brought to the switch. has a similar layout.

Connecting a three-gang switch

If you turn the three-gang switch backwards, then you can see what is written there, where to connect the wires. When wiring, be sure to review the instructions for the switch. If you mix up the wires then the lighting may not work properly. Usually on a three-gang switch, on the one hand, the incoming phase will be located. On the other hand, there will be three outgoing ones that will go to lighting devices.

If you have three light sources, then with this switch you can organize 7 different lighting combinations.

Three-gang switch in one housing with a socket

When connecting it, it is necessary to dwell separately on the moment of how to connect a three-gang switch with a socket in one housing. Thanks to this type of connection, you can significantly save your time on this process.

This scheme is practically no different from the previous scheme. The difference in the circuit will be only in the presence of an additional neutral wire.

The use of a three-gang switch with a socket will be justified if your house has open electrical wiring. will help get rid of the use of this switch.

The choice of a three-gang switch will depend only on your wishes. But when choosing it, you need to pay attention to the following details:

1. There should be no burrs on the top side of the product. They may indicate a poor quality product.
2. The keys should work without jamming.
3. When you turn it on or off, you should clearly hear clicks.
4. On the reverse side of the product there should be a wiring diagram for the product.
5. All terminals should work properly.
6. The three-gang switch must have butt terminals. They greatly simplify the installation process.

In panel houses, three-gang switches with a socket are widely used. They stand in the corridor and control the light in three rooms - a kitchen, a bathroom and a bathroom. The socket here is provided for various household needs, for example, to turn on the vacuum cleaner, razor, hair dryer, etc. A lot of time has passed since they were installed and today they require replacement. It is not difficult to buy such three-gang switches with a socket, but not everyone can figure out how to connect it. In this article, I analyze in detail the connection diagram of a three-gang switch with a socket, with which you can do everything yourself.

Before starting all work, be sure to de-energize the apartment or this line. Safety is paramount.

During the dismantling of the old block, remember, or rather, sign all the wires that you will disconnect. This will allow you to quickly figure out which wire goes where. In a nutshell about wires - the meaning here is this:

• from the junction box to the switch block, one two-wire wire fits and is connected to the socket contacts;
• from this socket from the "phase" contact there is a jumper to the common contact of the switch block (this is the only black wire in the figure below);
• from the other contacts of the switch block, three phase conductors go to the lamps.

I think these explanations are not enough, so I sketched a connection diagram for a three-gang switch with a socket, where I painted everything in detail. Here you pay attention to the drawn lines and do not particularly pay attention to the bunch of wires in the block, since amateur performance is induced here and the owners of the apartment have powered another outlet. See below...

In the photo above, a plastic box from a new three-gang switch with a socket is already mounted in the wall. It exactly fits into the grooved recess from the old switch. It can be planted on plaster, or it can be attached with dowels. Here the choice is yours.

Below is a photo without my art. This unit is in the apartment of one family of pensioners. The wiring here is old and they did not want to change it in any case. Some of the wires were broken and they were extended through single terminal blocks. Next, we see the yellow-green wiring - this is the "zero" conductor that goes to the outlet mounted in the kitchen (this is already an amateur performance of some electrician).

The switches themselves are already put in place below. In fact, they can not be removed, since there is still access to the contact bolts.

I removed them out of curiosity...

Now we put the body in place. It is attached with three bolts.

Setting up a side key...

Now another side key...

At the final stage, we put the middle key. That's all the three-gang switch with a socket is ready for operation. In order to disassemble it and get to the contacts, you need to follow the steps in the reverse order described here.

If these explanations are not enough for you, then read the new material supplementing this article: Supplement to the article "Wiring diagram of a three-gang switch with a socket". Here I consider two different schemes for connecting such a block and give detailed explanations.

Let's smile:

Physics teacher - Vovochka:
What happens if you insert a magnet into a coil and take it back out?
- An induction current occurs in the circuit.
- Right! What if it takes a long time?
- An electrician can be born.

At first glance, connecting a three-gang switch can cause difficulties and misunderstanding for a person who does not deal with electricity every day. In fact, there is nothing complicated in this. If you have ever installed a switch, you know that in a single one there is only one output terminal, and in a double one there are two. So, the three-key switch differs only in that it has as many as three output terminals.

This saves a lot of space on the wall, especially when such a switch is connected to a socket in the housing. Agree, it is very convenient to turn on / off the light from one place in different corners (in the toilet, corridor and bathroom) or adjust the brightness of the light of several bulbs, different lamps or lighting zones in one room / room. Which, by the way, will help save electricity by 20-30%.

How to connect a triple switch correctly

Before connecting a three-gang switch, be sure to turn off the power by turning off the machines near the meter. If there is a public access to the circuit breakers, hang a note on it about the installation work.

For work you will need:

• flat or curly screwdriver;
• pliers;
• knife or stripper (for greater convenience);
• insulating tape;
• indicator screwdriver;
• WAGO terminal blocks or others.

First you need to disassemble the three-pin switch to get to its terminals. This is done easily: pry the keys themselves with something thin, and then remove the frame. Now let's take a closer look at connecting a triple switch. There should be four wires going to it. It can be a four-core cable at once, one core of which will be a phase. Although more common is the exit from the wall of a single-core wire - a phase - and a three-core one nearby - for lighting devices. You can determine the phase using an indicator screwdriver.

Connection is done in just three steps:

1. We connect the neutral wires of all consumers (luminaires) with a zero supply. They are marked in blue in the figure. It is convenient and practical to use WAGO terminal blocks to connect wires, although you can get by with any other or simple twisting, only then do not forget to insulate the connection.
2. We connect the phase of the supply wire (brown) with the common wire of the light switch (white).
3. We connect together all the phase wires from the switch and fixtures. For a better understanding, we have compiled the entire scheme in accordance with the color coding (green with green, etc.).

Note! Only the phase wire should go to the input of the three-gang switch! If zero is interrupted, the bulbs will also work, but then the wiring will remain energized when the power is off. This means that even when replacing the lamp, there will always be a risk of electric shock.

The wires in the switch are fastened with clamping screws. No more than 5-10 mm of insulation is removed from the cable so that there are no bare wires. If the wire is stranded, use special NShVI lugs so that it does not break off when the screws are tightened.

That's all. As a result, our three-gang switch connection diagram is assembled. It remains to mount it in the socket, unfasten it with screws and install the lining with the keys in place.

By the way, the version of the multipole switch with a socket has almost the same circuit. The only difference is that a separate neutral wire is connected to the outlet, and the phase is common. It can be connected either by parallel cables (separately to the socket and separately to the switch), or by one cable (by a jumper from the socket outlet to the common contact of the switch). The figure below shows the diagram of the second connection.

Note! Overhead switches are produced for installation on fragile walls or wooden surfaces. They are also suitable for temporary use.

Some rules:

1. Carefully inspect the device in the store. All three keys should work smoothly, without jamming, with characteristic clicks.
2. There should be no scuffs, scratches or cracks on the outside.
3. It is preferable to take breakers with a block base made of ceramic or thick metal. They better withstand overheating and high stress, unlike plastic.
4. Pay attention to the degree of protection of the shell, if, of course, this matters to you. It is marked with the letters IP and two numbers. The first digit is protection against foreign objects: 0, 1 - not used in everyday life; 2 - protection against getting a finger; 3 - protection against ingress of wires and tools with a diameter of up to 2.5 mm; 4 - protection against small parts (wire, pins, etc.); 5, 6 - dustproof models. The second digit is moisture protection: 0 - absent; 1, 2 - protection against vertically falling drops of water; 3, 4 - for the street; 5, 6 - protection from strong jets (shower, ship, etc.); 7, 8 - withstand immersion in water, but such models are almost never found.
5. Do not forget that switches are made for three positions with illumination. They are very handy if you need to turn on or control the lights in the dark. This way you will see which key is enabled and which is not. Illuminated switches come in one and two positions.

Note! To illuminate long corridors, stairs or houses with several floors, three-gang pass-through switches are produced. They allow you to turn on the light in one place, for example, on the first floor, and turn it off on the second. Agree - this is convenient, because you do not need to sneak in the dark and feel for the keys with your hand. True, they should connect a little differently, but this is a topic for a separate article.

These are not all models of triple switches that can be found in electrical stores. There are decorative (colored, cherry, wood, etc.), waterproof, child-resistant, USB output, LED backlit and many other options.

Household switches provided in today's switching equipment market differ from each other in both appearance and design, which may vary depending on the expected operating conditions.

Three-gang (triple) household switches are usually used in rooms with a non-standard configuration, in cases where it is necessary to control the lighting of several rooms from one node, or when there are several lighting levels in the room.

This type of switches, due to its design, provides certain advantages over conventional two-key and single-key switches:

• simplify wiring in structures (walls);
• reduce material consumption and improve the overall appearance of the premises.

Due to the more frequent use of this type of equipment, the average life of such devices is 8-10 years and, as a rule, fail due to mechanical (destruction of the housing, fasteners) and electrical (destruction of contacts) breakdowns.

It should be noted that any type of malfunction leads to the need to replace the entire apparatus, which, by the way, must be carried out by a qualified specialist in compliance with all electrical safety rules.

Fig 1. Visual and schematic diagram of connecting a three-gang light switch

Design features

There are a huge variety of manufacturers of triple switches, as is the case with other switches, the differences between them only exist in design and materials used.

There are usually no significant differences in design. Like all switches, the triple consists of protective elements (frame and keys) and an operating mechanism (key drive). The keys and the frame are made of special shock-resistant plastic, the keys are designed for direct switching on and off.

The frame is attached to the mechanism with the help of special latches, or with the help of screws, the switch itself is installed in the socket (if the device is of internal design) due to special spacers. The main components of the working mechanism is the key drive to which the plastic keys and contacts are connected.

The triple switch has 4 contacts, 3 of which go to the lamps and one to the mains supply wire (Figure 3). Contacts are usually made of copper, the thickness is selected according to the expected current strength in the wires.

It should be noted that the manufacturer usually gives the appropriate designations on the elements of the device, including the operating voltage and the permissible current. By the way, some manufacturers achieve even greater savings by combining a switch with a socket in one housing.

Figure 3. Construction of a triple switch

Switch connection

Recall that the use of a three-button switch makes sense in places with several zones and lighting levels. Despite slight differences in design between switches with one and several keys, the correct connection of the device still plays an important role.

In order to connect the described light switch, you will need a small set of tools and materials, including:

1. pliers;
2. Phillips or flat screwdrivers;
3. knife or other (stripper);
4. insulating tape;
5. WAGO, if you use instead of twisting, soldering.

Let's start with the fact that 4 wires should come directly into the switch itself: one supply (phase) wire of the network from the switchboard or box and three wires from the lighting lamps.

In the described device, as mentioned above, there are 4 contacts: one input, to which the supply phase of the network is connected, and 3 phase contacts of the connected lamps, to which the phase wires of the lamps are directly connected.

The neutral wire of the network is connected to the neutral wires of the lamps either in the switchboard or, again, in the junction box.

When connecting the wire to the input contact of the switch, it is important to create a break in the phase wire of the network and not confuse it with "zero". In fact, by connecting the neutral wire of the network to the input terminal of the switch, and thereby creating its break, the device will perform the work required of it.

But in this case, there is a danger of electric shock, since even with the switch turned off, all wiring will be energized. It should also be noted that when replacing failed lamps, there is a risk of being energized when the lighting fixture is not connected to the ground loop.

The figure below shows a schematic diagram of the connection of a triple switch to the network. The connection of this type of switching equipment is regulated in the main document of electricians - PUE.

Figure 4. Schematic diagram of connecting a light switch with three keys