Onion greens are a very useful addition to any dish, because it is extremely rich in vitamins, macro- and microelements. The culture is unpretentious, so it is found everywhere in household plots. But you can provide yourself with greens not only during the gardening season, if you learn how to grow green onions in a greenhouse or on a windowsill.

The best varieties of onions for greens

For distillation on a feather, there are special varieties of onions. But even the usual onion is quite suitable.

Onion

It is necessary to choose multi-bearing varieties. If you cut such an onion, inside you will see not one, but 3-5 green embryos of future feathers.

A multi-bud onion is easy to identify if you cut the onion

Suitable options:

• Arzamas local. Variety from the category of mid-season with 3-4 rudiments. In addition to greenery, it also gives small, very dense bulbs. The pen is not damaged at low temperatures. Significant disadvantages are the tendency to be affected by downy mildew and special love from the onion fly.
• Bessonovsky local. Onions of early ripening, medium-sized (2-3 pieces). It has very good immunity, the only exception is peronosporosis. Requires minimal care.
• Rostov local improved. One of the most early-ripening varieties, each bulb has 3-4 primordia. The pen rarely suffers from diseases, it is cold-resistant.
• Spassky local improved. One of the best varieties of medium ripening for forcing on greens. Each bulb has 7-10 primordia. Resistant to cold, but can be severely affected by downy mildew and neck rot if conditions are right during the season for these diseases to develop.
• Chernihiv-4. Variety from the category of medium-late. Each bulb has 3-5 buds. It is often affected by peronosporosis, almost never by neck rot.
• Amber-29. In the bulb, 1-3 primordia. In terms of maturation, the variety is mid-season. Characterized by cold resistance and good immunity.

Onions are quite suitable for forcing on greens, but this is still not its main purpose.

Also found under the names "Tatar", "sandy", "winter". If you choose a perennial variety, feathers can be cut 2-3 times during the season, for an annual batun - only one. In this variety, it is imperative to cut off the emerging stems with seed boxes, they take away the necessary nutrition from the feathers, their taste deteriorates sharply.

If you plant onions on greens, choose perennial varieties

The best varieties:

Video: onion batun on greens

He is a chisel or a speedo. The leaf length rarely exceeds 50 cm. They are very narrow, similar to needles. Greens are extremely juicy, tender and fragrant. This variety does not form large bulbs, but it blooms very nicely, attracting pollinating insects to the site. Chives are well suited for growing at home.

Chives are planted not only for the sake of greenery and bulbs, but also to decorate the site.

Common varieties:

Also called pearl. In appearance, the feathers are almost indistinguishable from garlic feathers. The taste is very gentle, delicate. The average yield is 2-3 kg / m². Plants tend to be tall and powerful and are not very suitable for window sill cultivation.

The main part of the nutrients in leeks is concentrated at the base of the stem.

The best varieties:

Differs in general unpretentiousness. The quality of greens and productivity is noticeably superior to onions.

Shallots are loved by gardeners for their general unpretentiousness and high productivity.

Varieties popular with gardeners:

This variety can be identified by its wide, flat leaves that exude a noticeable garlic aroma. Valued for precocity, cold resistance, consistently high yields. In closed ground it grows all year round, in the garden the growing season ends only with the onset of frost.

The slime onion is distinguished by a long growing season, which ensures high yields.

Popular varieties:

He is Egyptian or Canadian. It got its first name due to the fact that it forms small air bulbs. Surpasses other varieties of culture in undemanding care and productivity. Most varieties are early ripe and multi-germ. The leaves are medium-sized (40-45 cm long), in the form of a pipe. Most often, such onions are planted in the fall.

A multi-tiered onion forms small bulbs in place of inflorescences

Popular varieties:

Planting bulbs in the ground

Onions are very undemanding in care. This also applies to growing conditions. But it should be remembered that the quality of planting material is the key to a future abundant harvest.

Optimal timing

On average, the greens of most varieties of onions ripen in 15–20 days. From this, and you need to proceed, determining the timing of his disembarkation.

At home, time does not really matter at all; new bulbs are planted year-round, as needed. In greenhouses, planting is practiced in the cold season (October-April), in winter the demand for fresh herbs is much higher.

In open ground, the specific period depends on the region of cultivation. The soil at a depth of 4-5 cm should warm up to at least 6-8ºС. In temperate climates, this is usually the first half of May. During the summer, the bulbs can be planted 2-3 more times, calculating the time so as to have time to cut the greens before the first frost.

If the crop is grown from seed, like a biennial plant, they are sown in a garden bed in the middle of summer. Fresh greens will appear literally from under the snow, it will be possible to cut it in April or early May.

Garden preparation

Choose a place well-lit by the sun and protected from the wind for the culture. In the shade, the feathers stretch out, become thinner, and become unaesthetically pale. The substrate must be loose, well permeable to air and water. Good predecessors for onions are any Pumpkin and Nightshade, all types of cabbage.

In the process of digging, the bed for onions is cleaned of weeds, all the necessary fertilizers are applied.

Since autumn, the soil is dug up, 3-4 liters of humus or rotted compost, 20-25 g of simple superphosphate or potassium sulfate and 10-15 g of any mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizer are added per 1 m².

Humus - a natural remedy for increasing soil fertility

2-3 days before disembarkation, it is loosened shallowly, leveled and gently tamped. The latter is necessary so that after planting the onion, the substrate does not sink excessively.

Planting material preparation

The best choice in this case is bulbs about 3–4 cm in diameter, weighing 10–15 g. They need to be cleaned of dried scales and sorted out, rejecting all specimens with the slightest suspicious traces resembling mold or rot, dents, cracks. Approximately the same size is especially important when onions are planted on greens on an industrial scale - this ensures further simultaneous cutting of the feather.

Bulbs for planting are selected very carefully - the future harvest depends on it

Mandatory stage - disinfection. For disinfection, the selected bulbs are immersed for several hours in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate. Another option is salt water (tablespoon per litre). A few drops of any biostimulator (Epin, Heteroauxin, Kornevin, Immunocytophyte) can be added to the solution.

Potassium permanganate solution is one of the most common disinfectants.

A common disease that can almost completely destroy the feather is peronosporosis. For prevention, planting material must be heated at a temperature of 40ºС for 7–8 hours.

To stimulate the bulbs to actively form greens, the upper quarter is cut off, providing oxygen to the leaf embryos in a larger volume. To enhance the effect, 2–3 longitudinal incisions are also made with a depth of up to 1.5–2 mm.

If you cut off the top of the bulb, you can get greens faster.

For the same purpose, onions are poured into a pile and watered with warm (30–35ºС) water. Then it is covered for 4-6 days with burlap or other material that allows air to pass through, but not light. The temperature in the room is maintained at a level not lower than 25ºС.

The described methods of preparation shift the timing of cutting greens back by 4–7 days and increase the yield of feathers by at least 60%.

Video: preparing bulbs and planting them in the ground

Different ways to get off

There are two ways to plant onions:

Onion seeds are planted on greens in furrows at intervals of 30–40 cm. They are sown very abundantly. Because of this, the seedlings are extremely dense. When the first leaves appear, they will need to be thinned out, creating intervals of 2-3 cm.

When growing a feather, planting seeds is practiced extremely rarely. Its only plus is the low cost of planting material. Harvest will have to wait a very long time.

Getting greens from onion seeds is a long enough procedure

Video: growing onions from seeds

The nuances of crop care during the season

To get a good harvest of greenery, the gardener is required to:

• Regular loosening of the beds. This ensures normal air exchange. It must be carried out 1-2 days after each watering.

  

  Loosening the bed breaks the hard crust on the soil surface

• Weeding. The root system of the onion is underdeveloped, the weeds simply “choke” it, taking away the necessary nutrition.

  

  If you do not weed the garden with onions, you can not expect a bountiful harvest.

• Watering. It is necessary when the soil at a depth of 3-4 cm dries up. On average, until the first ripening of the greenery, 4-6 waterings (twice a week) should be carried out. Excess moisture for the culture is harmful - the bulbs begin to rot. Water the bed along the furrows.

  

  Onions are watered along the furrows between the rows

• Application of fertilizers. It is advisable to do with natural top dressing. Enough 3-4 times during the growing season. Most often they are combined with watering. You can use infusions of fresh cow dung, bird droppings, nettle leaves and dandelion, wood ash. All this provides plants with nitrogen, stimulating them to actively build up green mass. It is useful to fertilize after the first cut of the feather to give the plants strength.

  

  Nettle infusion - a natural source of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus

• Fight against diseases and pests. Here, too, it is desirable to do without chemicals. The best prevention is competent agricultural technology. To protect against fungal diseases, it is useful to spray plants every 7–10 days and spill the soil with solutions of soda ash, wood ash, dust with chalk or colloidal sulfur. Pests are effectively repelled by mustard powder, tobacco chips, and ground pepper scattered over the garden bed.

  

  Onion peronosporosis is one of the most dangerous diseases for culture.

• Frost protection. When planting before winter in autumn, the bed is covered with a layer of humus with a thickness of at least 5 cm. In the spring it is removed. When return frosts are expected, it is tightened with plastic wrap or any covering material. If seeds were planted, by autumn there are already quite long feathers. In this case, the onion is covered with straw or a mixture of peat chips with sawdust.

  

  Many varieties of onions are positioned as frost-resistant, but you still should not neglect mulching the beds for the winter.

Harvest and storage

Green onions are ready for cutting when the length of the feather reaches about 30 cm. Harvesting should not be delayed - the feathers greatly lose their presentability (wither, turn yellow), and the taste also suffers. As soon as they began to lean towards the ground - it's definitely time.

In order for the feathers to continue to grow, existing ones must be cut off above the growth point of the shoots. Use sharp scissors or a small pruner for this. Such tools cause minimal damage to the plant. At home, you can simply gently pinch off individual feathers as needed, gradually moving from the periphery to the center.

If you overexpose the harvest of green onions in the garden, its quality will deteriorate sharply.

• In glass jars. Small dry feathers are laid out in a jar, tightly closed with a lid. If they have not broken or bent in the process, the greens will remain fresh for about a month. The container must be removed in a dark, cool place. By flooding the onion with vegetable oil, you will extend the shelf life by another 4-6 weeks, but in this form it is not suitable for all dishes.
• In a plastic bag. Unwashed feathers are folded into a bag of a suitable size, tied, several holes are made with a knife or fork for ventilation. Keep the package in the cellar or basement.
• In thick paper or linen napkin. It is strictly forbidden to use newspapers - printing ink contains lead. The feather is washed, allowed to drain, wrapped in paper or cloth, lightly sprayed from the top with a spray bottle. The bundle is wrapped in cellophane and put away in the cellar or pantry.

In the refrigerator, onions are stored in a special compartment for vegetables and fruits.

Dried and frozen onions are stored the longest without loss of useful properties (two years and a year, respectively). You can dry it both naturally and in the oven, a special dryer. To freeze the feathers, you must first chop them finely. Onions are also salted and fermented.

Before freezing, green onions are cut - so it takes up less space

Methods for growing onions on a feather

Outdoor cultivation is not the only method of growing green onions. Professional farmers plant it in greenhouses. There is nothing difficult in getting fresh herbs at home.

in the greenhouse

The main criterion for choosing a variety in this case is the yield. To get a large mass of greenery in a greenhouse, fertile soil is needed. Its surface sprinkled with dolomite flour or slaked lime - this will prevent mold from developing.

In greenhouses without heating, the bulbs are planted in a bridge way at the very end of autumn, sprinkled with a mixture of humus and peat chips (a layer of at least 5-6 cm thick). Mulch is removed in the last decade of February. Onions are watered with warm water, the beds are covered with plastic wrap until sprouts appear.

In heated greenhouses, it is easier to maintain optimal conditions for feather forcing - onions need a temperature of 17-20ºС during the day and 13-15ºС at night with a 12-hour light day. When the first shoots appear, the daytime temperature is raised to 21–23ºС, but no more. The feather grows faster in heat, but it stretches a lot.

Growing green onions in a greenhouse is economically justified only on an industrial scale.

Airing is added to the usual crop care activities in the greenhouse. As top dressing, special mineral complexes for onions are used. Watering is completely stopped 4-5 days before the planned cutting of greens.

Video: green onions in a greenhouse

hydroponic

The method is very popular with those who grow herbs for sale, hydroponics allows you to get a feather all year round and save space. Plates are placed on racks in 3-4 tiers.

The bulbs are planted in special mineral wool slabs or mats, previously moistened and spilled with a fertilizer solution. The interval between them is about 2 cm, the row spacing is 3 cm. From above they are covered with a layer of perlite or vermiculite 2–3 cm thick.

When growing green onions in hydroponics, it is necessary to provide them with optimal or close to this conditions.

Over the next week, plantings need shade and coolness. As soon as developed roots appear, daylight hours are increased to 12-14 hours, the temperature is raised to 23-25ºС. Feathers reach a length of 25–30 cm in 12–15 days. Always make sure that the “substrate” remains slightly moist all the time, water it with a fertilizer solution.

Video: green onions in hydroponics

At home

The technology is more or less familiar to everyone. The bulb is placed with the bottom in a glass of water or planted in a container with a diameter of 7–10 cm. Any universal substrate for seedlings will do. You can also use a deep pan to increase the yield. Before germination, the bulbs are provided with heat (25–30ºС). As soon as the feathers grow to 1.5-2 cm in length, the temperature will need to be lowered to 20-23ºС.

It is more convenient to grow onions in one container than in several separate jars.

The water in the container is changed every 2-3 days, the substrate is watered twice a week. Feeding is not required. All the necessary pen will receive from the bulb itself, cutting off the greens, it is simply thrown away. It is not long to wait for the harvest - the first feathers appear in a week or even earlier, they reach the required length in 8–12 days. Containers should be kept away from radiators and other heating devices. Otherwise, the soil quickly overheats, the feathers grow poorly.

If onions are grown in water at home, make sure that the bottom does not touch its surface, otherwise rot develops quickly.

You can save space by growing green onions in cut-necked bottles. Several 5–8 holes are cut out in the walls of a 5-liter container, matching the diameter of the bulbs. They are inserted inside, soil is poured into the bottle, tamping well. Plantings are watered by lowering the container into the water.

Onions grow well at home and in sawdust, they retain moisture for a long time, allowing you to get by with 1-2 waterings. Just before planting, they must be doused with boiling water or soaked for several hours in a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. Sawdust is used only once: after harvesting, the substrate is completely changed.

Video: growing green onions on the windowsill

Growing problems

Onion is a non-capricious culture in care, however, it is not always possible to harvest a bountiful crop of greens. It happens that diseases and pests destroy it, but most often the problem lies in the wrong choice of a landing site or in illiterate care.

The culture categorically does not tolerate the increased acidity of the soil and the proximity to weeds. It is also desirable for her to have sulfur in the substrate. Otherwise, the pen is thin, deformed. When preparing the beds, dolomite flour, potassium sulfate, ammonium sulfate are added to the soil.

At an early stage, sufficient watering is very important. Sprinkling is categorically excluded - this often provokes the development of peronosporosis. And the general waterlogging of the soil contributes to the development of rot.

Yellowing onion feathers can indicate both a moisture deficiency and a lack of potassium.

The unnatural color of feathers indicates a deficiency of certain nutrients:

• Nitrogen. Pale green or salad shade, thin feathers.
• Phosphorus. Withering and drooping, gradually blackening tips of feathers.
• Potassium. The feathers are lime-colored or yellowish, as if ruffled.
• Magnesium. Feathers covered with whitish spots, very easily broken.
• Copper. Straw-yellow feathers lying on the bed.

There is nothing difficult in growing onion greens. Even a novice gardener can handle it. The main thing is to choose the right variety. The culture is characterized by non-capriciousness in care; preparation for landing will also not require anything supernatural. Green onions can be cultivated not only in the garden, but also at home. It is also successfully grown in greenhouses. Each method has some nuances that you need to familiarize yourself with in advance.

Planting onion sets in the spring - what is a set?

​Related Articles​ As soon as the soil begins to thaw, the entire layer of mulch or branches should be removed from the beds. Under them, the soil will warm up much longer! Instead, you can sketch out snow that has not yet melted - let the melt water water the earth properly. If you notice that in some places the onion greens did not appear, plant the bulbs previously soaked in water in the free holes - do not stand idle for nothing. Do not forget about the predecessors - tomatoes, cabbage, peas, green manure are considered good, all bulbs, cucumbers and carrots are considered bad.

Consisting of 1 kilogram of salt and 5 to 6 liters of water. Place your sevok in saline solution for 2-3 hours, then rinse it repeatedly. The procedure will help you get rid of any fungi, and also kill onion fly larvae. Without drying, put the sevok in bags before planting about 6-12 hours before planting. During this time, the beginnings of roots appear. Have a good harvest.

When to plant onions in spring - loose soil and warm sun!

Immediately before planting, the seedlings should be poured with boiling water for about two seconds. Pay attention to the change in temperature, if there is a significant drop in temperature after planting the seed, then dousing with boiling water will not affect the yield;​

put under the film.

Is it necessary to cook bulbs - what are gardeners afraid of?

Seeds are sown mainly

A very good soil for growing onions is loamy, but acidic soil is unsuitable for growing.

The site must first be fertilized with mineral organic matter or manure. Do not bury the bulbs deep in the soil, their neck should remain outside. Immediately after planting, water the onions with lukewarm water.

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Planting onions in the spring on the head of gardeners is frightening with the possible shoots of "arrows" - coarse stems with a flower ovary. Well, when there are only a few of these flowers in the whole garden, however, a large number of them can significantly reduce your crop, because the ovary will take all the strength, and the bulb will grow completely inconspicuous, but besides this, its core will be solid. Such an onion will not last until spring - the core, as a rule, dries up and begins to rot, and the bulb rots with it. Large onions grown from seeds are most prone to the appearance of arrows. Therefore, before planting, sort the future crop by size. Planting a sowing or planting on a head is the same process, characterized by planting small bulbs obtained by planting seeds a year earlier. Experienced gardeners can grow crops from seeds in one year, but this process takes a lot of time and effort, so the vast majority plant sevok. ​

Instruction

• By the way, caring for winter onions is much easier - shoots begin to appear literally from under the snow cover, and weeds simply cannot keep up with their active growth. When the weeds start chasing, it will be much easier to pull out this unnecessary greenery - the onion is already strong, well-rooted, and pulling it out together with weeds will not work even if desired.
• The earth should be loose, neutrally acidic - in heavy clay soils, onions do not grow well before winter. A place for winter planting should always be chosen in a well-lit, elevated place - this recommendation applies to any crop that is sent to the ground in late autumn. In the spring, the garden bed should be the first to free itself from snow and expose the black canvas of the earth to the sun's rays. If the landscape on your site is the same, then in the spring the bed can be covered with black agrofiber, which perfectly warms the soil under it. Another important nuance is that moisture should not stagnate in the garden, since excessive moisture has an extremely bad effect on the bulbs.
• Many summer residents who are accustomed to planting onions in the spring will be very puzzled by their winter planting - is it worth sending the onions to the ground in the fall? There is a point, especially if the previous harvests year after year did not please you, many bulbs shot arrows, pests annoyed, and so on and so forth. As you know, if you want to get a different result, you need to perform other actions! Of course, we recommend that you first practice in small beds, leaving room in the garden for the spring planting of this crop - there are many nuances in winter planting, you won’t take everything into account at once, so get ready to learn from mistakes.
• During germination, it consists in weeding it from weeds and timely watering, as well as loosening to a depth of no more than 3 centimeters. The crust of the soil, which turned out after rain or watering, must be carefully broken without damaging the onion, otherwise it can be harmful and slow down its growth.
• It is necessary to plant in moist soil warmed from 7 to 8 degrees Celsius.

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When and how to plant onion sets in spring

If you decide to plant in open ground, then it is better to choose a time around mid-May. It is better to carefully monitor the condition of the soil. The most favorable moment is when the earth is dry on top, but inside is still wet and when squeezed in the hand, a lump forms. This period just falls on the time of planting carrots. When planting by alternating onions with carrots, you will save onions from many pests, as carrots release phytoncides that repel harmful insects.

Stages when spring planting onions

1. wide band
2. Luke loves the light
3. Use top dressing in the form of ammonium nitrate (dilute 20 grams of nitrate per 8 liters of water), potassium chloride (15 grams per 7-8 liters of water), superphosphate (15 grams per 8 liters of water). The first top dressing is necessary already a week after planting the onion. The second - 8-10 days after the first feeding. The duration of growing green onions in the spring is about a month. After the onion feathers have reached a length of 30-40 centimeters, it is harvested by hand.

Preparing the land for sowing or planting onions

You can correct the situation even before planting - experienced gardeners recommend dipping large specimens for one minute in water heated to 50 ° C. Potatoes, peas and beans, cabbage are excellent predecessors for onion beds, but re-planting it on the same the same place is not even possible for two years. Otherwise, caring for onions planted in such an unusual way is no different. Watering onions in a dry season should be as soon as you notice that the greens are bent in places - this indicates the plants are wilting. However, in the second half of May - early June, watering is already completely stopped, since at this time the bulbs begin to ripen. On poor soils, top dressing, which is applied in the form of irrigation, will not be superfluous. For a nutritional composition, a glass of bird droppings or mullein is diluted with 10 liters of water, and a tablespoon of urea will not hurt either. Three liters of this liquid should be distributed per square meter of plantings.

So, as soon as the right weather forms, you will have everything ready for landing! By the way, this way you also win a lot of spring time, when you need to plant everything at once - after all, the onion is already in the ground. In no case should sevok be soaked before planting - plant it without any manipulation. Melt water, which in the spring will water the bed in excess, is an excellent growth stimulator and kills many pathogens. Nature has taken care of everything, hasn't it? The first advantage that you will notice when sowing in winter is savings on planting material. If larger, more impressive bulbs are planted in the spring, then in this case you will need the smallest set, whose average diameter is less than 1 centimeter. They try to get rid of it in the fall in the first place - by spring it simply will not survive, it will dry out, and therefore they are sold at the lowest prices. A liter jar holds so much of this planting material that you get tired of planting it. Harvest should be started at the end of summer or at the beginning of autumn, when green feathers gain growth and full strength. With a strong desire, feathers can be plucked earlier, then these will be very young small shoots.

Sowing onion seeds

To begin with, before planting a sevka, you need

Sevki are small onions. The distance between the centers of the strips should be 30 centimeters, while the seeds themselves are laid to a depth of about 2 to 3 centimeters into the ground. There is a little trick, if after two weeks you make the next sowing, then you will get a continuous crop of green juicy onions, so the place should be sufficiently lit. The interval for growing onions in one place should be no more than 3-4 years. Therefore, plan a landing site, coordinating in advance with other perennials. Onions grow well if vegetables such as legumes, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini and potatoes were grown in the ground before it.

Onion planting and care

In spring, onions left in storage begin to sprout. In order not to throw it away, you can grow green onions at home. Fill a box or pot (depending on the amount of planting material) with peat soil and plant the bulbs in it, close to each other. Water well and after 10 days put in a well-lit place (windowsill). It is necessary to water the onions 1-2 times a week. If the bulbs are not germinated, then they should be pre-soaked in warm water for a day, then cut off the neck and planted in the ground. Then they should be kept in a warm, damp cloth for a day, and another two days in water at room temperature. The rest of the planting material will not hurt to withstand three days at the radiator, because even small onions can shoot an arrow without warming up. You can also soak the sevka for 10 hours in a solution of complex fertilizers. If you want to decorate the table with homemade onion-feathers in the spring, then you can cut off the tops of large onions.

• If fungal diseases are rampant in your area, be sure to spray the plants with antifungal when they reach a height of 15-18 cm. For spraying, you can use good old blue vitriol or more modern antiseptic preparations. Vitriol is diluted in the proportion of 1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water and a tablespoon of liquid soap is added so that the product adheres well to onion feathers.
• Of course, for a good harvest you need a good variety of onions. Any zoned one, preferably one you have tested in spring plantings, will do. Unless absolutely southern varieties that are afraid of frost do not fit. Today you can already find a special set for winter plantings, but so far this is a rarity. In central Russia, varieties such as

The second advantage that owners of small plots of land will especially like is a very early harvest. Already in July, your onion will fully ripen! After harvesting, the garden bed can be planted with early ripening crops, greens - they will have plenty of time to grow. Another plus of early ripening is the absence of an onion fly at the time of the appearance of the first shoots. The active breeding season of the onion fly falls in the second half of May, and by that time the winter onion will get stronger, the greenery will become denser and more resistant, the larvae will no longer be as scary as spring plantings. And one more nice bonus - in July, when the time comes to remove the onions from the garden, you will have plenty of time, because the bulk of the crops are still green with might and main.

Sevoc can be grown by yourself make grooves in the ground

• , which are obtained from the first harvest of seeds. To get a good onion crop and prevent pasture into the green arrow, you must adhere to the following requirements: Based on the opinion of professional summer gardeners, Before plowing the soil, on it
• Greens are very useful for our body, as it contains a huge amount of nutrients. Therefore, everyone tries to plant a different number of crops in their garden, such as dill, parsley, onions, cabbage and others. In addition to useful qualities, greens also add spice to dishes and refresh the table. Onions play a huge role in the treatment of various ailments and stimulate appetite during meals.
• ​Onion

Even in one season, pathogenic bacteria and microorganisms that harm this particular plant are concentrated in the ground under the onion. Pests also join the whole "bouquet" of diseases. Against this background, the impoverishment of the top layer of soil after the onion does not seem to be such a big problem. Therefore, plan your beds in such a way that the onions change their place of "residence" annually and land away from the previous place, at least through one bed. Undesirable predecessors for it will be garlic and carrots, you can’t plant them in the places where cucumber seeds grew, so it’s very important to carefully plan the garden. Harvest should be done after the formation of new feathers has stopped, the stems have fallen together, and the bulbs in soil acquired a characteristic color for the variety. This is best done in dry weather. Stems and roots should be immediately cut with a knife or scissors. Onions must be dried in a shaded, ventilated room, and only after this procedure be sent for storage in a dry corner of your cellar or attic. It is quite possible that this experiment will become your favorite way to plant onions. Danilovsky, Strigunovsky, Arzamas.

Winter planting will surely appeal to those who grow onions for sale - an early harvest allows you to earn much more money for it than at the time when this crop ripens in everyone's garden. And don't worry about storage - although most early vegetables are not suitable for long-term consumption, these onions, once dried, will feel great all winter.

or you can buy it on the market. When buying, try to choose the sets yourself, if the seller allows. If not, then be sure to sort at home, while removing the rotten, crooked and dry sivok, as well as the one that seemed suspicious.

and sprinkle them with ashes. Between sets, the distance should be approximately 8 centimeters. When planting seedlings, it is strictly forbidden to press in, as over time the soil will push it out. When planting, the bulbs should be the tip almost at the surface of the soil and, therefore, about 2 centimeters deep. Before planting, about two weeks before planting, the seedlings must be heated for 10 to 12 hours to a temperature of 45 degrees Celsius, using closed heating elements, such as for example, like a room battery or a stove. Then the sevok should be viewed and removed the sick and dry. This is necessary in order to

best time to land

scatter wood ash Land preparation for sowing or planting onions;

It is considered one of the few cultivated plants that is cold-resistant. It tolerates spring frosts quite easily. Green onions contain a large amount of vitamin C and minerals necessary for the health of every person. The use of greens during the period of spring beriberi helps to increase immunity and fight colds. And how nice it is to pinch off the young feathers of green onions grown in your own summer cottage.

​Of course, there cannot be the same landing conditions for each region, but you can navigate by weather signs. If frosts are no longer expected, the spring turned out to be early and warm, you can plant onions as soon as the soil warms up a little. With a later spring, planting occurs throughout April and even at the beginning of May, the same dates are also relevant for larger bulbs. In the spring I plant as early as possible and the heads are 2-3 cm in diameter. They usually make a good green mass. I plant smaller onions in parallel or a little later, but it also fits later and not so evenly. For a family, we have enough beds with a total area of ​​​​7-8 square meters. It is better to plant onions every 10-14 days throughout the spring, so you will have green onions longer. However, the market will probably offer you a mixture of various varieties - we need the smallest one, and it is often considered waste.

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Landing before winter - experimenting with onions

The essence of the experiment - what will we get?

The choice of the moment of winter onion planting is the most important nuance in this whole experiment. It is simply impossible to name the exact date! In the middle lane, frosts usually begin as early as mid-October. But from year to year, the weather can bring the most unexpected surprises, such as a prolonged thaw after snowfall or prickly frosts during a period when, according to all forecasts, it should still be warm. Therefore, be guided strictly by the current situation - the situation is considered optimal for planting onions when frosts make themselves felt every night, but there are still several weeks of relatively warm weather ahead.​

Make a purchase two to three weeks before planting. Purchased sevoc must be stored at room temperature and in the light, you can also keep in the sun. Experience shows that after such storage, it sprouts for a week and ripens ten days earlier.

If planted under a film, then the landing is made two weeks earlier. And the landing and care procedure is no different from the one described above.​

save healthy sevok

We choose a good time - plant or wait?

- this is the month of May, since the probability of frost is already minimal, severe flooding and flooding of the soil and other negative nuances are much less than in the rest of the spring months. It is necessary to decide on the landing method, namely:

With the expectation of 5 square meters, about one bucket. This leads to a decrease in all kinds of pests in the soil, and also fertilizes the soil. In this case, the greatest result will be if the ash is dry and fresh. Also, before planting on the ground, it is advisable to apply humus 2-3 years old, about 3-4 kilograms per square meter, then you will get juicy green onion feathers. sowing onion seeds; Forcing green onions does not require a lot of light, so it can be grown not only in open ground in summer, but also in autumn and winter in panics, greenhouses, and even indoors. To grow onions on a feather, choose one of the following varieties: Arzamas, Bessonovsky or Rostov. A large-sized set or onion samples are landing. The best harvest will be obtained when using a sample, the diameter of the bulb should be 3-4 centimeters.

The earliest possible beginning of April in the greenhouse. Take onions, both sprouted and unsprouted, whichever you have. Leave the germinated so, and cut off the unsprouted top with a knife. Then pour all this over night in a bucket with cold water. The next day, drain the water, and plant this onion in the greenhouse. Not too deep, the very top should not be underground. And in 2 weeks you will have an excellent green onion.

The nuances of a winter landing - do not lose sight of it!

It is important to sort out the onions before winter - calibrate the planting material, discard dried and diseased bulbs. First, you plant a large fraction, then a medium one, and separately - the smallest one, which usually goes to the greens. Calibration significantly improves the yield - the onion sprouts more amicably, grows everywhere at the same speed. It should be planted deeper than we do in the spring - in grooves 4-5 cm deep. A less deep planting is fraught with freezing of the set, because compared to the same garlic, the winter hardiness of onions is much lower. If you hurry up and send the seedlings to the ground ahead of time, it can not only take root, but also sprout. Greens, alas, will freeze out already at the first serious frosts. If you are late, then the bow will not have time to take root before the winter and will simply lie in the ground in a state of deep sleep until spring - in this case, almost all the advantages of such a planting are leveled. Before planting purchased sevok, carefully peel off everything that can peel off. If you are going to plant an onion on a feather, you need to cut off the entire neck before planting, but if on a turnip, then you can not cut anything.

Forcing onions into feathers in a greenhouse is not a profitable business for the lazy. A banal story - “I'm tired of working for my “uncle” and I want to work for myself, especially since I have my own free plot. Which either already has a greenhouse, or you can build it. Next is the matter of technology. Find the most suitable type of business on the Internet, read different business plans, and here it is - the solution, engage in forcing onion feathers. Indeed, according to advisers from the Internet, this is a miracle business where you can make good money in a short time with a small area. Profitability rolls over, which means it's time to get down to business.
Yes, you are right about the last one. Now is the most cherished time when it is really time to start driving the onion to the feather. The distillation of the onion feather is carried out in the cold season from the head of the onion, which is on time this summer, as well. The growing period for onion feathers depends on the region. On average, forcing an onion feather lasts for several months - September, October, November, December, January, February, March and even April.

If you decide to engage in forcing the onion feather, then read my note to the end. And maybe this idea will leave you. And maybe vice versa, it will stimulate you to action. I have been forcing the pen for more than five years, and everything I write and advise is backed up by personal experience.

In the video, the harvest of green onions, which is ready for harvest. These results are waiting for you.

Is onion forcing suitable for me?

I will immediately justify the nuances with the division of this paragraph into “worth” or “not worth it”.

• if you have your own land, which is owned
• Do you live in this area or is it as close as possible to you?
• the site is guarded and there are all necessary communications: electricity, water, gas (not a prerequisite)
• there is a greenhouse on the property
• if there is no greenhouse, but there is free finance for its construction
• there are free funds for the purchase of the first batch of planting material
• you have people who are ready to help at any moment
• you do not work for "uncle" or are ready to be fired
• do you have your own transport
• you are not a lazy person

Not worth:

• plot to be leased
• the site is more than 10 km away from you
• There is no electricity or water in the area.
• transport plan to hire
• you plan to borrow or borrow money for a greenhouse and purchase of planting material
• you work for your “uncle”, but it’s scary to take risks and quit
• you are ready to help only for "adequate" pay
• you are a lazy person

I think the idea is clear and many will agree with this. It turned out that most of the “not worth it” points coincide with the situation, it is better to abandon this undertaking. In addition to loss, debt and disappointment, it will bring nothing. If all is well and you decide that forcing onions on a feather suits you in all respects, read on.

In order to start growing green onions, your greenhouse must be properly equipped. Since the onion feather is driven out to a greater extent in winter, it should have as little heat loss as possible. The better the coating of the greenhouse for forcing onions, the lower the cost of its maintenance. There is no need to overpay for heating the air. Well, this is so logical, I will not focus on this.

For the control of growth in the process of forcing the onion feather, shelving is more responsible. They must be mandatory. What to construct them from depends on you and your financial situation. This nuance should be taken into account based on the understanding that, first of all, the air is heated in the greenhouse, and then the earth. The latter takes much longer to heat up. But if the forcing of the onion onto the feather takes place on the racks, then the bulb receives heat much faster and begins to germinate. Then you can always control the growth of green onions. If you need to speed up distillation, give more heat. If you slow down growth, lower the temperature. Of course, you can resort to such manipulations with a bow on a feather only after a while, having gained the necessary experience.

I personally recommend making feather shelving in two tiers. But if there is a real problem with the area in the greenhouse, it can be at three, and sometimes even at four. In this case, it is worth considering that the more tiers, the less clearance between them. Luke will miss the light and will be faded. What will affect the demand and price at. Artificial lighting of each tier is of course justified, but incurs additional costs for the installation of the lighting itself. Thereby increasing the cost of grown green onions. Make sure the shelves are not too wide. The wider the rack, the harder it will be to plant the onions. Speed ​​when planting seed and harvesting green onions plays an important role in the process of forcing onions onto a feather. The central rack, which can be approached from all sides, is made wider, and the side wall racks are narrower - at an outstretched arm.

Photo: Rack for forcing onion feathers

Heating for onion forcing

The main process of forcing onions on a feather takes place at a temperature of +11 to +25. The temperature depends on the capacity of the heating source. Definitely, the gas boiler in the greenhouse is the leader in these indicators. But, not everyone has the opportunity to bring the gas itself into the greenhouse. Personally, I have a buleryan in my greenhouse - an air heating stove. And with the right approach, it does a very good job.

The greenhouse must be able to ventilate. Humidity should not be too high. And coupled with stagnant air, this is a strong blow to the green onion crop. A bow on a feather categorically does not tolerate stagnant air. It must constantly circulate. An ordinary household fan, directed at an angle of 45 degrees relative to any wall, will help to cope with this task. It consumes little power, so it's not expensive. If there is no circulation in the greenhouse, at the onion feather forcing stage 2/3, with 100% certainty, green onion feathers will start and. This is especially noticeable at the corners.

Do you want to tickle your nerves? ..., do not open windows and doors, suddenly the heat will go away. At the same time, then tell me in the comments what came of it.
Fresh air should be supplied to the greenhouse twice a day, in the morning and in the evening. To do this, just open the door and window for five minutes. In frosts, only the door, with the fan turned on for 10 minutes. You don’t need to worry about heat, oxygen heats up very quickly. So forcing onions on a feather will proceed normally.

Photo: Greenhouse equipment for forcing onions on a feather

Water for watering onions on a feather

There are no such requirements here. should be, but how you implement it is up to you. However, I will give you some recommendations. If you watched my videos, you noticed that I have two water containers. Plastic "Eurocube", for 1 cube of water and a plastic barrel for 200 liters. In the first, I have ordinary water, which is filled immediately after watering. This allows the water to warm up before the next watering. In the second, I dilute potassium permanganate and phytosporin for preventive watering. Between themselves, they are connected by wiring plastic pipes, on which taps for adjustment are installed.

Multi-growth bow on a feather for planting

The key to the very profitability of a business is a variety of onions on a feather. There are some characteristics of onion cultivars that must meet the requirements of forcing onion feathers. Experienced onion growers tend to use a multi-growth and multi-cavity bow on a feather. To achieve the goal, some plow the expanses of our vast country in search of a supplier, others take risks and order suitable varieties remotely from other regions. I do not recommend you start with such risky actions.

To begin with, I advise you to buy a bow for a feather at the nearest wholesale markets or bases. You can also use popular message boards. There they often offer to buy a multi-pronged bow for a feather at a good price. There are some popular varieties, thanks to which, forcing onions into a feather becomes more profitable. This is achieved by increasing the percentage of pen output per square meter. Thus, a well-chosen feather bow will increase your profits. The top three that I recommend finding and buying onions for a feather include the varieties Karatalsky, Rostov local, Stuttgarter Riesen, Egyptian and Chalcedony. About these varieties, I wrote a separate note that I recommend reading -.

Photo: Multi-growth bow on a feather
There is also a variety of multi-growth onions on a feather - Rostov. But I don't know how much I'm telling the truth. I've only come across this variety once. According to the appearance and reviews of familiar colleagues of onion growers, whom I asked, it was he. The result is simply excellent. Unfortunately, I didn't get to see him again. But, if you suddenly run into this bow, take it without hesitation. Of course, do not forget to look at the quality of the bulbs. The onion turnip should be whole, with no signs of rot. When cut healthy, juicy and white. The presence of blackness, and softness of the root bottom, indicates the infection of the planting material. You can’t take such a bow even for a “cap of crackers”. Having infected a greenhouse with one batch of onions, sometimes you can forget what forcing onions on a feather for the whole season is.

The caliber of the bow per feather, in turn, affects the landing speed. If you take samples of onions with a caliber of 2-4 cm, the feather will be thin and plant it longer. And if you buy an onion turnip for a feather with a caliber of 5-10 cm, the feather will be thicker and plant it faster.

Preparing and soaking the onion

Before you start planting, the onion needs to be prepared. After all, you want the forcing of onions on a feather to be even, right? There is nothing difficult. The main thing is to cut off the neck of the onion and soak before planting. It is best to cut the neck of the onion turnip by 1/4 - 1/3 with a knife and without regret. Due to this, the onion feather will start to grow more evenly. Even if at this point you damage the already green buds of green onions, do not worry. A few weeks before harvest, you will forget that the tips of the onion feathers have been damaged. All wounds will heal and the appearance of the bow feather will be excellent.

Photo: Soaking onions After the entire onion turnip is cut off, just before planting,. It is advisable to do this in warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate. Water during soaking should not exceed +50 degrees. Warm water and potassium permanganate will additionally disinfect the planting material. And the warm water itself will contribute to the additional awakening of the onion turnip and will start the formation of the root system. You can soak the onion from an hour to a day. It all depends on the planned pen forcing speed. The faster the preparation and planting of the onion is carried out, the faster the forcing of the onion onto the feather will begin.

Substrate for forcing onion feathers

Onion forcing on a feather can be carried out on any available substrate. The substrate is a kind of soil in which the onion turnip will take root. The main and most popular include: of course, garden soil itself, loose compost or humus, as well as sawdust. Beginner onion growers, of course, should start to drive out green onions on ordinary soil or humus. Yes, it is dirty and you will have to try to work cleanly, but for sure. And when experience is accumulated, you can switch to sawdust. Then the forcing of the onion feather will proceed in a clean mode.

The substrate is poured onto the shelves of the racks. The thickness of the layer is usually 5 cm. That is, the sides on the shelves should not exceed more than 6 cm. 5 cm of the substrate and 1 cm as a support for the extreme onion turnip. So that, while the onion is without roots, it does not roll. Of course, you can make the layer thicker, but this does not justify the labor costs. The thicker the layer of substrate on the racks, the harder it will be after each watering. Onion roots 5 cm thick are more than enough for a normal feather forcing process. It is desirable to put a film under the substrate. But I don't kiss. In some places, it is desirable to pierce the film with a small nail or knitting needle, thereby forming very small holes. This will allow you to “leave”, and not stagnate with excess moisture when watering.

Planting an onion on a feather in a bridge way

Planting an onion on a feather in a bridge way is the most tedious and monotonous process. The bridge method of planting onions on a feather is the placement of the bulbs on the beds side by side. As close as possible, picking up the bulbs so that there is as little empty space between the bulbs as possible. At the first landings, it takes too much time. But this is first, when you get hung up on correctness. With experience, the selection of bulbs takes place automatically and the speed of planting onions increases significantly. This method of planting onion turnips for growing green onions can significantly save usable area in the greenhouse. Useful area - this is the allotted area on which it is planned to drive the onion to the feather. This concept does not include paths and other areas for servicing racks with onions.

Photo: Bridge method of planting onions on a feather

Calculation of onion feather yield from 1 square meter

When planting onions, you can calculate in advance the required amount of planting material. As experience shows, 1 bag of onions goes to 1 square meter. The big red bag is Chinese. Depending on the variety of onions, one bag contains from 25 to 30 kg of onions. With an onion caliber per feather of 5-8 cm and proper fit, about 400 bulbs fit per 1 square meter. Exactly like in a bag. I do not pretend to be the basis, but I get just such landing arithmetic. And usually true. Error + - 10% of the planned number of onions for planting. Which is negligible. Thus, using the bridge planting method and certain varieties, the green onion feather yield per 1 square meter varies from 25 to 60%. Where 25% is the yield from a single-arm onion, and 60% is the yield of an onion feather from a multi-arm (three primordia or more). Of course, 60% is not the last indicator, some onion growers also have a little more "ceiling". But this is already an exception to the rule.

Probably my words upset you in order that there is no 150 or 300% pen yield, as 99% of the articles of unfortunate authors of charlatans promise on different sites. Sorry, boiled up. I'm tired of watching how authors far from the onion business distort reality, risking your hard-earned, gullible novice onion growers. Moreover, my photos are stolen and inserted into articles. Okay, we can talk about this endlessly. Let's get back to the topic. For a more realistic figure, put in your business plan an average exit rate that is 45%. You can rely on this figure and predict black profit.

Output and Revenue Calculation Example

I hope it became clear to you how to calculate how much green onions you can get from 1 sq.m (1 sq.m of area \u003d? kg of onion turnip * 45% yield \u003d? kg of onion feather yield *? rub. =? black profit). Example: 1 sq. sq. = 30 kg * 45% = 13.5 kg. * 100 rub. = 1350 rubles. Where 1350 rubles, this is black earnings from 1 square meter. Black earnings are the amount from which the costs of purchasing planting material, fuel, greenhouse maintenance, utilities, etc. were not deducted.

There is nothing complicated in the process of forcing green onions. It remains to take care of the planting and wait for the green onion feather to grow. Care means timely watering of onions and spraying. Including with the addition of phytosporin. Inspection of racks and prompt cleaning of rotten or infected bulbs. Maintaining a stable temperature in the greenhouse. Ventilation and air circulation.

When the onion turnip has taken root and the feather has begun to grow, it is possible to regulate the forcing of the onion feather using temperature for a certain time. The green onion feather lends itself very well to “training”. If the onion on the feather needs to be kept growing, it is enough to lower the temperature in the greenhouse. But not below +8 degrees. This often happens when you need to get right on time for a holiday or wait for an increase in the price of onions. For the same reasons, onion feather growth can be accelerated. To do this, the temperature in the greenhouse rises and the onion grows faster. Forcing onions on a feather lasts up to a certain length of green onions. It should be 40-50 cm. This length is not taken into account from the top of the onion turnip, where the feather comes from, but from the level of the substrate.

Harvesting and packing green onion feathers

Definitely the most fun thing to do. And so, when the length of the bow satisfies us in full, the forcing of the bow on the feather has reached the final and it's time. If the onion is driven out short, you will always sell it very successfully. Freeloaders resellers love green onions of 25-30 cm. But in this case, you are the loser, and they are in “chocolate”. If the forcing of the feather is started beyond 50 cm, then the bow is no longer considered to be of presentation. It will be possible to sell it successfully only if you are a complete monopolist, or for various reasons there is a shortage of green onions. Which practically does not happen.

Photo: Green onion harvest
The process of harvesting green onions is as follows. Along the surface of the substrate, the onion is cut off with a knife under the root. Packed into boxes and placed on the sorting table. Next, the bulb is taken and a cut follows almost near the root bottom. Then one hand holds the feather of the onion, the other pulls the bulb itself. Here is the finished green onion. It remains only to remove the vile transparent and slippery film from the turgor. Turgor is the stem of a green onion, the same white part of the feather. If this film is not removed, after a few hours it will begin to dry out and a brown edge will appear. What spoils the presentation of green onions. All these procedures are carried out with each bulb.

After the onion is peeled, you need to pack it. The packaging is up to you and those who will receive it from you. You need to either agree on this in advance, or look at the wholesale market, how they pack onions. And pack the same. For example, I pack green onions in newspapers, 1 kg each. and put it vertically in a banana (banana box).

Well, I posted all my thoughts and I hope my note and my experience will be useful to you. If you have read to the end, you are stubborn and I am sure you will succeed in forcing onions onto a feather.

If I went somewhere around the answer to your questions, I will add in the comments. Ask questions.

By the way, I will be grateful to you if you liked the note, there are social network icons below, click and share with your friends.

Thank you all for your attention and successful business in the forcing of green onion feathers!

And as a bonus, a video of how I clean green onions after harvesting

Picking a bunch of green onions in early spring is not a pleasure. For the owner of a country house or cottage, getting a feather for greenery is easy. A polycarbonate greenhouse will speed up the process. find out in this article.

Types and varieties of onions that give thick greens

Cipuccio

Cipuccio is an early ripening, high-yielding shallot variety. Greens after planting can be cut in 2-3 weeks. The pen has an original spicy taste. Bulb weight up to 50 g. Vegetation period 70 days.

Aristocratic - shallots. From one sowing bulb in the nest, from 6 to 12 new pieces weighing from 50 to 100 g are formed. People call this species a family one.

The variety is early, full-fledged bulbs ripen in 70 days. Cut greens are ready in 4 weeks.

Variety Aristocratic is used to produce greenery on an industrial scale.

Old Russian

Old Russian (red, yellow) - a type of shallot. Gives a powerful, bright green feather with a waxy coating. The seed material is stored well and for a long time (2 years). The variety is resistant to many diseases of bulbous crops. Up to 10 pieces are formed in the nest.

Reproduction is only vegetative, as arrows do not form. Gardeners consider this species the most cost-effective for forcing greens. Cut shallots are ready 20-30 days after planting.

Lilac ringing

Chives Lilac ringing is 7 kg of greens per season from 1 sq.m. soil. The variety is early ripe, when grown in open ground, cutting is carried out after 20 days. During the summer, several cuts are made. The variety is frost-resistant.

studgarten riesen

Studgarten Riesen is a multi-bearing, high-yielding variety with good immunity to most diseases. The productivity of the variety is high.

In the presence of 4-6 primordia in the seed from 1 square. m. receive up to 15 kg of greenery.

When is the best time to plant onions outdoors?

For home consumption, turnip greens can be planted in open ground as early as the end of April, provided that the earth has warmed up and its temperature at night and in the morning is not lower than 12 degrees.

For commercial purposes, turnips for greens are grown in a greenhouse. If there is heating, distillation can be done throughout the year.

On an industrial scale, onions for greens are grown in greenhouses

The main thing you need to get a pen:

• quality seed;
• fertile substrate;
• watering;
• top dressing;
• backlight.

A full crop of green feathers is obtained with 12 hours of daylight. For growing in greenhouses, select varieties with a short dormant period.

With a long daylight hours, the optimum air temperature is 18-22 degrees. Yield drops at lower temperatures. At higher air temperatures, product quality decreases.

There are proven methods for planting turnips on greens. Experienced gardeners successfully apply planting methods:

• pavement;
• tape.

In addition to the method of planting, it is important to choose the right place and prepare fertile soil (substrate) before sowing any variety.

Choosing a place to grow

When choosing a place for planting seedlings on greens, take into account the principles of crop rotation.

Plant after crops:

• cucumbers;
• zucchini;
• pumpkins;
• cabbage;
• tomato;
• potatoes.

In the shade, the onion grows poorly, the feather is pale and thin. Ridges are best placed in an open, sunny place. During rains, it should not be stagnant moisture.

Proper soil preparation for planting

We prepare a bed for planting in the fall before planting. Determine the acidity of the soil. With increased acidity, add dolomite flour. Consumption - 50 g-sq. m. Onions love loose soils with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5.

With increased acidity of the soil, add dolomite flour

In the fall, for digging, add:

• Humus ½ bucket;
• Superphosphate 2 tbsp. l;
• Potassium chloride 1 tbsp. l.

Consumption is per sq. m. Dig up the soil by 20 cm with a shovel or walk-behind tractor. Dig again in the spring and add 10 g of urea per square meter. m. 7 days before sowing, pour the ridge with a solution of copper sulfate. Pour 10 liters of water into a watering can and dissolve 20 g of the drug in it.

Planting onions for distillation on a feather

A good green growth will provide high-quality seed material.

Before planting, the bulbs should be stored in a warm room. Before planting seed sevka in the garden, they need to be sorted out. Reject damaged copies. Sort by size. Bulbs from 2 to 4 cm in diameter, weighing from 15 to 40 g give the greatest feather yield.

1. The selected material must be moistened and kept in a warm room at an air temperature of 25 degrees for 48 hours.
2. Trim the tops of the bulbs a quarter of the length.
3. Dissolve 30 g of ammonium nitrate in 10 liters of warm water (35 degrees), lower the bulbs into it for 16 hours.

The approximate consumption of seedlings with the bridge method is 13 kg per sq.m. The consumption is large, because the bulbs are stuck into the ground tightly to each other. Aisles are not made. The advantages of this method are obvious:

• the landing area is saved;
• all the forces of the plant go to the formation of the feather.

The bridge method is especially beneficial to use to grow onions in greenhouses.

The tape method involves the formation of furrows with an interval of 10 cm. The bulbs are placed in the furrows tightly to each other or with a small indent of 1-2 cm. The furrows are covered with a thin layer of earth (2 cm).

Care rules

The main care of a crop in open ground is proper watering. In its absence, the feather is bitter and thin. With an excess of bulbs rot, the crop suffers.

To maintain the required humidity, take into account the weather and check the soil moisture at a depth of 3 cm. It is tentatively recommended to water 2 times a week in the absence of rain.

Water only in the evening. This will eliminate unnecessary heating of the soil. Onions do not like high temperatures.

If the soil is prepared correctly and filled with organic matter and mineral fertilizers, top dressing can be omitted. With the tape method of planting, loosen the ground between rows, remove weeds.

The crop is harvested, focusing on the length of the pen. There will be seedlings of the same length on the entire ridge if the seeds were calibrated in size before planting and sets of the same variety were planted.

For all varieties, the requirements for the length of the feather are the same. A size from 24 to 42 cm is considered commercial. When this length is reached, the feathers are cut off for sale or own consumption.

It does not take much time and effort to get a feather green for home consumption. Before you engage in forcing turnips into greens on a large scale, it is worth evaluating your capabilities on a small scale. Choose the most productive variety, master the technology of preparing planting material and soil. With the right approach, success is guaranteed.

What meat broth without golden onions, what vinaigrette without squares of emerald green onions? Do you remember that the first meal of Pinocchio was a large sweet onion? Juicy, crunchy, tear-jerking, this best meat companion is always welcome on the kitchen table.

Let's find out how and when to plant seeds and sets in open ground in order to get a high-quality crop of not only greens, but also heads. And so that spring chores in the garden turn into a mountain of strong onions, a video describing the correct landing is attached to the article.

Onion is a plant "on its mind", so if it is not stored and grown at the temperature it wants, it can give too small bulbs or even bloom - "go to the arrow." The explanation for this must be sought in the origin of the plant.

This is a typical inhabitant of the Asian semi-deserts, storing water in the succulent leaves of the bulb in order to survive the driest season. Its life cycle is built in such a way that in the first year of life the plant makes the most voluminous reserves of sugars, and in the second year it blooms and forms a “nigella” - small wrinkled seeds.

But this is at home. In the conditions of the middle zone, with relatively poor sun, in the first year the plant manages to form only tiny bulbs - sets. The following summer, turnip onions are obtained from them, and seeds a year later.

planting material

The continental climate of Asia is quite severe in winter, so the onion is used to low temperatures during the dormant period. They contribute to the complete completion of the physiological maturation of flower buds. This means that if the bulbs were stored at 5-10 degrees, the culture will bloom in the spring.

For the formation of vegetative buds, and therefore powerful greenery, higher temperatures are needed - 18-20 degrees. This corresponds to the storage of sevka in heated rooms, but not near the batteries.

Site selection and soil preparation

Remembering Asia, we select a site for onions where we can create conditions close to optimal:

• in no case is it a lowland and not clay;
• sandy loam or, in extreme cases, peat;
• a lot of sun;
• good ventilation;
• no fresh manure, only rotted;
• as predecessors - potatoes, cucumbers, peas.

Attention! Make sure that other types of onions, garlic and carrots do not turn out to be the predecessor of onions.

Luke is hard to survive among the weeds, so in the fall it is necessary to carry out a merciless fight against them. Having dug up the site, we wait for weed shoots, treat them by leaves with the Tornado preparation (75 ml of the preparation diluted in 3 liters of water per 1 weave), remove half-dead plants, wait for the survivors to rise and dig again.

We introduce fertilizers carefully: phosphorus-potassium for autumn digging, and everything that contains nitrogen - for spring.

We divide the bulbs intended for planting into two fractions by size, simultaneously removing completely dried and diseased ones. Small ones will be planted earlier, around the end of April. Firstly, they need more time to turn into full-fledged heads, and secondly, due to physiological underdevelopment, they are unlikely to start flower-bearing shoots even at low temperatures.

We plant a large fraction later, in May, since they are more likely to bloom under the influence of frost.

With a high probability of being affected by fungal diseases (powdery mildew, peronosporosis), we treat the seedlings before planting with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Now let's decide what we want to get from our set: heads or feathers. In the first case, the bulbs are planted as they are, in the second, a few days before planting, the top must be cut off from them, this stimulates the growth of greenery.

As mentioned above, it depends on the air temperature during storage and in the initial period of growth whether the set will give a strong turnip or frail arrows. Therefore, we make sure that the temperature is:

• about 20 degrees during storage;
• about 40 degrees before planting - for this, the seeds are heated in the sun or even in hot water;
• the soil should warm up to 10-12 degrees at the time of planting.

Spring planting onions

The onion has a weak fibrous root system, so the soil under it must be ideally prepared: loosened, leveled and even rolled. On even beds, we draw furrows with a scoop handle in the west-east direction, leaving 20-25 cm between them.

Planting onions

Bulbs are planted at intervals of 8 to 12 cm (depending on the size of the fraction), we press them into the soil so that later there is at least 3 cm of soil above them. If they are higher, they can be pushed to the surface, which is fraught with death from lack of moisture.

A deeper embedment is less harmful, but, as a rule, affects the shape of future heads: they are formed elongated, which, however, many cooks like.

We compress the bulbs with earth, sprinkle, level the soil. In the future, we take care of it, like any other crop: we water it, protect it from pests, remove weeds, and feed it.

Advice. Try growing onions on combs. To do this, close them very finely, and then rake the soil from the row-spacing into rows.

And how to get the sevok itself

Funny tiny bulbs of sevka are obtained by sowing nigella. Coal-black, similar to crushed anthracite, onion seeds are soaked for 12 hours in a solution of potassium permanganate (remember powdery mildew) and in the first days of May they are sown on the same ridges as the sevok itself, only close up smaller, within 1 cm.

A popular method of obtaining sevka seedlings. Seeds are sown in convenient containers with soil and kept on a windowsill under a fluorescent lamp. After germination, the temperature is reduced as far as possible, for example, the seedlings are rearranged on a glazed loggia.

Waterlogging is dangerous for onion seedlings, so it is better to water it with a spray bottle. For open ground, it will be ready with a feather height of 12-15 cm. Planting time is the earliest, as soon as the ground thaws enough to form holes in it for a plant.

Cut a plot for onions in your garden, provide him with proper care - and this doctor will repay seven ailments with kindness: in broth, in salad, and in fragrant frying, he will contribute to the good health of your family.

Even before planting, it is important to know why the sevok goes into the peduncle and how to avoid it.

The reason for the fact that the bow shoots is the incorrect storage temperature of the planting material, the lack of adaptation before planting, and the violation of the rules of care.

Let us explain in more detail: onion sets must be stored at positive temperatures, because it is the cold that provokes the onion to create arrows. This is a signal to launch a self-preservation program and give offspring as soon as possible. Therefore, as soon as you plant such a set, it will begin to produce flower stalks in order to give seeds faster.

The key to a large and strong onion turnip is storage in comfortable conditions, without cold stress.

But what if you bought an onion set in a store, and you have no idea how it was stored? No problem. Purchased onions need to arrange an adaptation period.

If there is no time to warm up the battery or the heating has already been turned off, then you can do the following: give the bow a warm bath. In a bowl of warm water (40-45) degrees, spread the onion and leave for 8 hours, periodically adding warm water. Then we take out the heads, dry it thoroughly and store it at room temperature until planting.

For planting on a turnip, choose medium-sized heads, because large ones are more prone to shooting and are best planted on greens. Do not plant in cold soil. For the same reason, watering with cold water should be avoided.

Onions are almost indispensable for cooking many dishes. At the same time, it can act in them not only as an additional component, but also as the main ingredient. At the same time, turnip is significantly inferior in usefulness to green onions. Rich in vitamins, from the earliest spring, onion-feather helps the body recuperate after winter.

Planting onion sets in spring: cultivar requirements

Of course, much depends on a reasonable choice of variety. Yes, since the time of the Soviet Union, many have been growing greens on the windowsill, which is especially pleasing to the eye in a snowy winter. Therefore, the positive results and the regaling of such an ecological product cause a further desire to grow onion feathers in their own garden. And therefore, first of all, you need. At the same time, be sure to pay attention to the requirements of the crop to the soil, the planting pattern, taste characteristics and, of course, the yield.

The subtleties of growing a green feather

Almost all varieties of onions intended for feathers are distinguished by good resistance to frost. At the same time, all of them are quite unpretentious and, unlike getting a turnip, where it is necessary to constantly apply fertilizers, this is absolutely not necessary here. The only condition that must be met is to provide good lighting - natural in the case of an open garden and artificial if the onion grows in a greenhouse.

At the same time, be sure to take into account the fact that the length of daylight hours directly affects not only the intensity of the green color, but also the taste of the plant. In addition, low lighting can provoke excessive stretching of the leaves, which will spoil the aesthetic appearance of the beds and the greenery itself in general.

In addition, there is a special point regarding moisture, namely, the beds you have chosen should retain moisture well. At the same time, it is important to find a “golden mean” here, since excess moisture on the onion bed is unacceptable - the culture will suffer and show poor growth, especially during temperature fluctuations. Therefore, planting of onion sets in spring should not be carried out in places where groundwater can rise.

If we talk about special requirements for the soil, then in the case of an open garden bed, there are none. When growing a feather indoors (a room, a greenhouse) or in boxes, it is better to give preference to mixtures with “traditional” organic matter in the form of humus, peat or compost, layered with a layer of soil.

How to plant onion sets: the most rational ways

If we are talking about planting an onion not on a turnip, but on a feather, you can completely forget all the traditional schemes. The thing is that growing greens can significantly save space in the garden. And the secret lies in two simple ways:

- Bridge. The feasibility of its use is determined based on the amount of planting material. In this case, it should be quite a lot. The bottom line is the dense laying out of the bulbs next to each other with a slight onslaught of the root part into the ground. After that, the “bridges” are covered with approximately 2-3 cm layer of soil. On average, to implement this method, about 11 - 13 kilograms of onions are required per 1 square meter of land.

Tape. The essence of this method is laying out the onion in pre-prepared furrows. At the same time, a certain distance between the heads is maintained, but remains very small - from 1 to 4 centimeters. Each next row should be placed about 20 centimeters from the previous one. After planting, the beds should be well leveled and sprinkled with earth. After the emergence of seedlings, they can be thinned out if desired, leaving about 3.5 - 5 centimeters between plants.

Secrets of getting a good harvest

You have already figured out how to plant onions in the spring, now you need to understand what nuances you need to take into account in order for the result to pleasantly surprise you. Of course, the answer is obvious - constant care and supervision, that's what will help to achieve high yields. Planting according to certain schemes, adhering to other requirements of agricultural technology, namely loosening, watering and fertilizing, are the determining factors in the quality and quantity of greenery.

Loosening: is it necessary?

Whoever says anything, but this event is the fastest and most effective way to saturate the soil with oxygen, which is so necessary for the root system of any plant. That is why it is worth resorting to loosening so often. to prevent the formation of a dense crust on the ground.

Take note!
It is ideal to water the beds with onions on the second or third day after watering. By this time, the water is already well “absorbed” by the roots, and the dried beds allow you to work quite comfortably on them.

How often should watering be?
Since moisture is one of the components of the nutritional components for the culture, it is clear that you will often resort to this event - about 2 times a week. Water contributes to the entry into the root system of all useful substances in the soil, but its amount should not be overdone. It is best to take into account the weather conditions. For example, during a hot summer, the number of waterings may have to be increased up to 3 times a week, and during a rainy summer, it may be enough to carry out the procedure once, or even do without it. At the same time, remember that the older the onion, the less moisture it needs.

Do I need to feed green onions?

Definitely yes, but the question is different - how best to implement it? Given the specifics of planting crops, it is ideal to apply fertilizer with irrigation. To do this, you can prepare a solution of urea - 1 gram per 10 liters of water. It is better to start after you have started cutting the greens - in this case, the plant will receive the strength to restore and grow new feathers.

Of course, there are some subtleties in growing onions on a feather. But, they are definitely not so scary and impossible to have at least some chance to prevent you from successfully coping with your goal!

Along with this article, they usually read:

Due to the fact that the year does not fall on the year, the timing of planting onions can be adjusted in one direction or another. The main factor that you should definitely focus on is weather conditions. By following this simple recommendation, you can really achieve good yields.

How to grow large onions from sets: growing sets in open ground.
For most of Russia, growing onions from seeds is an almost impossible task, and therefore onion sets are more popular. Of course, this method also requires certain knowledge and proper cultivation techniques. But, in this case, you will have every chance to harvest a large crop.

Onion sets are one of the most popular planting materials. It is early maturing, usually always very tasty and more resistant to attack by pests and diseases. But, in order to personally experience all these advantages, you need to learn how to choose it correctly and prepare it for landing.