Hotly arguing about ways to increase the yield of certain garden crops, many dackets miss the same way that all these questions have one root. And while you can not figure it out with him, I will not grow up anything worthwhile on the beds.

Do not push on pity

There is such a saying: "Stupid grows weeds, smart - vegetables, and wise - earth." In these words, the whole point of work in the garden is concluded! And you, dear readers, what do you think? Agree with this saying?

And what type of people do you consider yourself: to upernaya conservatives or curious innovators?

Although, I understand, I don't want to be stupid to be stupid, probably, everyone considers wisely. Is it so? As often, I read letters that are crowded with complaints on the soil: some are complained that they have the earth - the sand, others cry from clay, and the third at all make the "discoveries" like that they, for example, a loamy black soil. And what is it at all, does anyone know? And all such messages ends equally - nothing in the garden is not growing, and if it grows, then out of the hands is bad.

But, fortunately, there are other messages, where people tell how they have turned into fertile. And such luckyrs are becoming more and more, which is very pleased. Thank you! They are real workors. And since it was about the soil, then how not to remember about our second bread.

Potatoes - the best indicator of what is happening in the garden. He needs a good, loose land, without her normal harvests will not wait.

And of the one who managed to fulfill this is the main condition and make friends with potatoes, the rest of the garden crops can no longer be able to - who of them will be in a fertile land? For example, a varietal large-scale garlic is growing at me, as on the conveyor (photo 1). And for carrots and other roofing grounds, loose land is also benefit.

Again, the experience of working with potatoes teaches carefully and thoughtfully treating watering. With them our second bread gives a harvest twice as much. Who underestimates it, loses much. And any fertilizer and all kinds of growth stimulants are only the third condition of good harvest.

Why do the tubers need a loose land, I think it is not necessary to explain anyone. But maybe someone does not know? Then briefly: if the soil is light, then the growing tuber will spread it without effort, and his uniform growth does not interfere. So it turns out even, depending on the variety is circular or oblong, as its breeder and "ordered". And it is harder to push the heavy soil, so the potato is less and the size of less and the form is fancy.

Void and dimensions

After all, all these wisdom experienced. When I bought in the village small house With a plot of 20 acres, I immediately understood that the former hosts were not engaged in the garden, because there was not the earth, but a solid clay. In 2011, I planted 12 potato varieties. Survived and gave an excellent harvest only one - Vineta (from Germany). Apparently, there is some kind of indestructible inner force. I still do not part with him: he gives a harvest to any weather and on any earth, to the phytoofluoride is stable.

In that year, the tubers have also been huge, but not round, as they are supposed, and bug, like cobblestones. Here it is the result of non-cultural soil. I don't have pictures of this time, and today the tubers are Winps such as in the photo 2. I write so much about him because it is very grateful to him. If he did not give a harvest, I may generally refused to grow potatoes. Therefore, I advise: if you are a beginner in the cultivation of this culture, start with a screwing. Well, now I will tell you in detail how I improved my soil. By the way, the question is: Do you know the criteria for evaluating its quality? After all, the words "good" or "loose" by itself mean little.

So here loose soil is when the hand without effort can be shoved to her wrist (i.e. approximately at a depth of 15-20 cm). So that. So think what is your land.

And for a start, I stood the ridge with a width of meter, and my husband stalled them with boards. It is already easier: all work on improving fertility is now to be carried out only in stationary boxes. The aisles between them took 50 cm. Rating forward. I will say that later, I changed the sizes of the sizes: the ridge made a width of a little less than 1.5 m, and the passages are 70 cm.

Potatoes in the box landing in two rows. Believe me, the less often the wells are placed, the greater the plants have opportunities for normal growth. And only then will they please you at the beginning of strong powerful stems, and then large numerous tubers (if, of course, your variety has not yet degenerated).

Although I do not strive for records, but the last season was generous to achieve. For example, one unicaled variety tuber has grown slightly more kilograms (photo 3). Someone by reading it, say: "And just!" I will not argue, the weight is not exemplary, but this is not 150-200 g. There are gardeners who do not like very large potatoes (however, I did not personally meet such personally, but I only saw their letters) from the fear that inside the "giants" Can be emptiness. Well, then they can save time and not to read about what I am writing here, it is not information for them. Although those large potato varieties that I currently grow, there are no voids. And the big potato I just glad the soul. Imagine, one bush of the same unique gives 4-5 kilo tubers, son - about the same way, but the galaxy is a bit generous: in the same past year, at all, six Kilo squeezed (photo 4)!

Yes, it is difficult for me to remove such a harvest: digging-digging and thinking when the end. And the number of varieties like a snowball, grows and grows, although I reject 10 each year. In the end, I don't even know exactly how much I have them in the go (last fall 21 grades were sent to me).

Experiments for improving the soil

Again distracted. Let's return to Earth. For the first two years I did this: I brought around the car peat, manure, sawdust and distributed all this in the ridges, stirring with clay. The result was ambiguous: the soil really became loose, but for the next season of the tracks of sawdust and peat was not noticeable. Martyshkin work is some kind! Although the land by that time could already be called not clay, but by Suglink, but I realized that this path deadlock. Yes, and the work was terribly heavy.

The next experiment was such. Kopala in the rivers of the pits with a 10-liter bucket, removed the land tolerated to another place (for example, on the ridges made for watermelons and pumpkins), laid on the bottom of the fertilizer, mixing them with the soil, over - on a tuber with long etiolated (germinated in Dark) sprouts (photo 5), and filled out the remaining space well decomposed black peat. Optionally, it can be replaced with a loose compartment or ground mixed with sawdust, or a finely chopped hay.

This work was also not difficult: for the season it was possible to prepare only 13-14 Grocenes. Potatoes in these pits grew wonderfully, the yield was at the height. But! When I knocked out the harvest, the peat was still mixed with a loamy, because if there is a loose soil, the tubers not only grow to the sides, but also break into the depth. And I was forced to improve the technique.

Everything is very simple, remember. So, first we carry the places the place where the garden should be, take out the turne and score a lot of small wooden chumbachkov in the bottom of the ridge. Next, fill the box with a loose substrate.

And all! In the spring, it remains only before planting to make a slightly treated sawdust and slightly fertilizers for potatoes.

I will add that I do not give landing, but only the mulch their layer of bevelled grass with a thickness of 3 cm (but only after the sprouts rose). For the summer, I add such a mulch for a couple of times, and when I dig a harvest, the earth under it remains loose. Actually, I don't even dig, but just pull the tuber with my hands. Shovel I take when the potato is deeply.

It is forced to admit that it is only in words everything looks easily and attractive - to make such ridges in reality is very difficult. After all, practically I replace the natural clay of another soil. Count the volume of work! But everything is done only once, and the result is for many or many years. If even one season to make such a goer at least five pieces, you will already achieve excellent results.

Chernozem, chernozem, fertility ... and dries in stone. One year after the mulching of the hay was very loose in the spring, but with mulch - tint.

What can be broken? Some advise add sand and peat. I do not know how sand, but peat ... soil and so sour, why voluntarily scat it additionally?

Read more tips:

High soil density can be caused by an increased sodium content. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to eliminate liquid humatic fertilizers, which contain sodium. Increase the soil loan will help add compost or manure, limestone flour or peat.

To make the ground loose, I would make the car of the sunflower husk, and if you want to have a depleted and acidic soil, then put sand and peat.

- "In the autumn there are rye, in the spring as it can be loosen as possible and that's it." Well, I relate to rye stalling, but generally the Siderats should help. Although - a big discussion of the Siderators and do they benefit

It helps it well (if if such an opportunity) DRAVE of the pair of cars humus, adding a buckwheat husk, adding sawdust and sand to the ground. One of my acquaintances does so - after weeding weeds, he buries them along the tracks, and the next year makes the beds on them.

Use peat, compost or overwhelmed manure, well add ash or lime. All this decless on the future bed and carefully leaving the shovel, and then once again protruding all the forks. And that's it. In the fall, after cleaning the super-harvest, you can add more peat and ash in the garden and again neatly overshadow the soil with a pitchflower, choosing every garbage. In the spring will only be able to peel in forcillary and can be planted again.

Humus, mulch, siturates, rap. Residues through the shredder. Earth as the fluff has become.

On the bed brought everything: sand. Manure, peat, ash, compost, foliage, chew pine, mowed grass. Watered by the biopreparation "Revival". As a result of many years of efforts, soil appeared on the beds instead of clay. IN last years Apply another method: the clay lumps simply get out of bed and throw out outside the plot in the dump.

Local hot heads brought to potato ridges on wood sawdust dump trucks. The ridge was drunk with sawdust. After that, the yield of potatoes 3 years was at all any.

The use of wood sawdust decided last spring. Made as special fertilizers at Wood sawdust introduced mineral fertilizers: many nitrogen and little phosphate and potash. The decrease in potato harvest on these 2 experimental beds was very tangible: about 2 times. This season began restoring the yield of these 2 beds.

[I sawdust soaked in urea solution and laid on the tracks. In the fall, everything was frozen, the beds were planned in a new way]

To increase fertility [on clay], would have made it (preparation of the beds) removed the top layer of fertile soil to clay, poured clay with an infusion of compost, manure, and added bakery yeast at the rate of 20g on the water bucket. + Third glasses of jam. It turned out the "lake", then I take a scrap and spend the deepening in the clay at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. And we get - yeast getting into the clay begins to loosen the clay highlighting carbon dioxide, and the formed cavities fills the nutrient medium of diluted organics. And so we get a more structured soil

With its soil [granite and granite dropping +8 kamaz chernozem] (on sandy technology) I make similar "lakes" only instead of yeast add a kernelter (I cook from flour)

And about the harvest of potatoes - he loves warm, long day day, loose soil rich in potassium. (in potato tops 30-40% of potassium)

If you invite earthworms as rhymers, they will work for free. Well, only food waste, herbs can be a little manure. I worked for me.

The book "Madness of Pahar" about the vulgarization of such a plot

Equal to nature

What to do? Of course, to raise, fuck, cherish the inhabitants of the soil, and loosen, only loose the soil so that they do not harm! Instead of shovel, you will use Fokina flat. He has a pointed end, so they will make a furrow at first along, then across, blowing it into the soil about 5 cm. Then the flat part of the flat cut is slightly rehaust this layer.

If you need, you will decline in rakes. By the way, the rake can also be used to burst the upper layer of the soil. It is best for such a superficial processing of the Earth, a manual cultivator is suitable, in which, in addition to the wheels, the wheels there is still a cut plate.

You can make this work sharpened with a chipper, a strife "Strizh" and other devices. They are now quite a lot appeared on sale. The only requirement for such tools - they must be very well sharpened. And do not believe in self-catching. The tool must be stuck before each use, then work will go easily. These tools should not be deeper than 5 cm in the soil, and they should not mix the layers. You can dig and the usual shovel, but only superficially.

Do not worry about the roots, they will find our way in deeper reservoirs, penetrating into microchannels left from the root system of previous tenants (if you did not destroy them with a resampling). So the roots do not need deep steaming.

Why do you need humus? Gumus is the most valuable component of any soil. Its creates rainworms and soil microorganisms. Therefore, quite a reliable indicator of soil fertility is the number of rainworms living in it. What they are more, the soil fertrige. The more humus, the darker the color of the soil.

Humus - complex organ-mineral education. Its main part is humic acids and fulvates.

Humic acids "glue" like the synthetic glue of the smallest lumps of the soil into the aggregates that are not glued together. Thus, the structure of the soil is created, in which water and air are easily penetrated into the thickness of the soil between these aggregates.

Fulvati carry on its surface negative electrostatic charge And positively charged ions of chemical elements in soil solution are attracted, in particular nitrogen. That is, they help the soil saturation with minerals.

One square meter of soil with a thickness of 25 cm (arable layer) weighs about 250 kg. If humus in the soil is about 4%, then in these 250 kg it is contained only 10 kg. For the season of the roots of plants, about 200 g of humus from each square meter of the arable layer are destroyed. To restore it, it will be necessary to make it annually on the bucket (5 kg) leveling on the meter of the soil surface. If you make a green mass of siturates, weeds, grass, leaves or other non-dried organics instead of humoring, then their quantity should be increased three times.

Sometimes ask the question: where better to bring the body - in the upper layer of the soil or in the lower? It is economically more expedient to bring it into the lower layer of the soil. That is, increasing the fertile soil layer from below. At the depth of the bayonet, the humus shovel is formed 6 times greater than in the upper layer with the same amount of the components of the organic. But the peroxide is permissible only in the layer of 5 cm. How to be?

If the soil you have very poor (Gray indicates that in the soil there is only 2% humus), the first peroxide should be made as follows. State the bed. In order not to stroke the soil, put a blackboard across the bed, moving it away from the edge to the width of the bayonet shovel. Standing on the board, remove the soil and fold it next to the face of the bed. Fucking the bottom layer. Fill out the dug trench with green weighing weeds or beveled grass and move the board on. Now the soil, removed from the next trench, without turning, fold on the green mass. Lock the bottom layer in the second trench, fold the green mass into it, move the board even further, and so continue until the end of the garden. When the last trench is filled with green mass, take the soil to it, which was taken out of the very first trench and folded near the finchord. The most important thing in such perplex is not to turn the soil. In all subsequent years, the green mass of weeds or sawdust, leaves and other organics you will be deposited on the surface of the bed. Then it will need to be slightly sprinkling the ground or step along with the upper layer of the soil to the depth of no more than 5 cm. This work is better to do at the end of summer or at the beginning of the autumn, so that most of the organic people have time to overcede.

And what if you have a solid clay or heavy loam on the plot? Especially do not dig. Often in books are recommended in clay soils add sand and organic. But the one who did it knows that sand across the season goes deeper, and the clay leaves again on the surface. You will need to annually contribute to the sand bucket and on the bucket of the organics for each square meter of the soil surface for 12-15 years, until finally, the land will not become more or less suitable for the garden. Calculations of scientists show: to measure only one square meter of clay soils, it will take about 150 kg of sand! And it is just one square meter! Why do you need such a cat cargo?

If you have a very dense earth, increase the fertile layer on top. That is, fold on the place of the future beds compost. So that it is not embarrassed by his non-primable look, take the beds with some racks, jerles and drink peas in front of them, nasturing or curved decorative beans, or sit around the perimeter of beans, sunflowers, corn, cosmeu. Leave only from the side that you do not see, pass to fill a bunch.

So, without humus in agriculture "and neither there, and neither here." It will have to systematically build up, as nature does, the introduction of the organications. And annually the plants themselves return the soil more than those of it.

The easiest way to grow humus is through a compost bunch. To accelerate the formation of the humus formation, live bacteria should be used, which are contained in the preparations "Revival" and "Baikal EM-1". It follows in the middle of summer.

Why comes the rational of land? This is often observable phenomenon. Soil ceases to "work." She "Bastuets", yields fall on it. And then we begin to increase the dose of mineral fertilizers, buy or reserve manure. But after a while everything "returns to the circles of its own." What's the matter?

Nature does not sort the Siderators, does not make a manure in such quantities as we do, and from year to year there are huge forests and meadows, and everything is in order. And the fact is that the plants increase the organic mass of much more than the one that is carried out, destroying humus, from the soil. That is, they are not depleted, but on the contrary, the fertility of the earth is increasing. How do they manage, and why not succeed to us?

Have you seen the nature of the sgrade and touched, and even burned the fallen foliage and dead plants? What are we doing? Not only we endure with the harvest of soil nutrients stored in the fruits. And do not return the loot. We still have fallen leaves and vegetable residues remove, preventing the normal process of restoring humus. Where does it come from if there is no source? In addition, endless mothers destroy the natural structure of the soil. And in such a soil there are practically no residents. Pay attention to the fruitless soil looks like a gray lifeless dust.

Usually to improve soil fertility We recommend sowing a field with Siderators or leave it to "take a walk", that is, nothing to sow nothing. It, of course, immediately touches weeds, which, like specially sown sittings, are recommended to overheat.

Beginners of gardeners will ask: what are Siderats? These are plants on the roots of which bacteria live, able to take nitrogen from the air and accumulate it in the soil. The green above-ground mass, being reopening along with the soil, will make the organic organics necessary for the life of microorganisms.

A pea, alfalfa, viku, clover, Lupine can be soiled as sitarats. Recommended also to enter bacterial drugs AMB, azotobacterin, phosphorodobacterin, nitrhogne. That is, we are invited to settle down by bacteria. The "walking" field does not keep under the ferry, that is, "naked". It is populated by plants, and, oddly enough, tired, exhausted soil is not fully tired, and is perfectly restored.

Why do we have it tires and deplets, and there is no nature? Yes, because it does not dig and does not carry anything from their fields. Everything returns back to the ground, and with great interest. So let's follow nature, take less, give more. How to do it?

Do not carry out from the beds, from under the bushes and trees crawled weeds, and leave them lying in a robbery and under the landings. Do not worry, after a couple of weeks they will disappear, because the worms will melt them in their moves in the ground. And before that, for some time, they will serve the mulching material, that is, they will cover outdoor places on the soil and will not give moisture to evaporate from the surface, and the soil structure is collapsed. Do not remove the roots and the above-ground part of the plants after harvesting. Leave everyone on the beds.

If you are afraid of pathogens of diseases on these plant residues, then process the garden directly on them with phytosporin. Live bacteria predator, which is in this drug, during the fall "Eat" pathogens of any mushroom and bacterial diseases. It, unlike bacteria, mentioned above, does not die at one degree frost, but with minus 20 degrees. If the winter is warm, it will safely fall in the soil and will continue to serve as a sanitation on your beds. And if winter still falls harsh, then the snow usually happens a lot, and under this fur coat it has a big chance to survive.

The pests, wintering under the vegetable residues, in this way, of course, do not destroy, but they can be found on them, if you can take care of your pets.

So, the reason for the omission of the soil lies in unreasonable land use. If all the time from the soil only to carry out the nutrients along with the harvest, then nothing will remain in it. It is necessary to return someday.

Kizima, Gardening

Happy owners of dacha hawk well know that it is impossible to get rich land on the plot without effort. To do this, you need to work hard. But, before proceeding, it is important to determine its initial state. It depends on what additives and in what quantity is applied. About how to make the soil of loose and fertile, will be discussed in our article.

How to make the soil of loose and fertile

Ideally, if natural land from the site can be attributed to the agrolaboratory, where they will make a complete analysis. Its results will definitely show how to optimize the soil at the cottage. Unfortunately, for most owners such testing is not available. No problem! Some characteristics can be defined independently, for example, mechanical composition. It is responsible for air and moisture content. It can be found it yourself, if a small amount of land is moistened with water and make a ball from it. As a result:

• the figure is scattered - it means the ground is sandy;
• the ball can be rolled out into the cord and form a ring - the soil is considered to be clay.

In the first case, additives are needed to hold moisture. It is possible to break the heavy soil using coarse sand or lower peat. For any type of land, nutritious feeders will need, the best are organic fertilizers.

Fertilizer manure

Vital activity of animals contain a complete complex of substances necessary for plants. That is why the introduction of organic fertilizers makes the soil fertile. Under the garden and garden crops contribute any kind of manure - cow, pork or horse. Attention! It is important to comply with such rules:

1. Fresh fertilizers can be made only in autumn to empty areas, where there is no landings, for example, in the garden. Manure in this form is an aggressive substance, dangerous for plants. Therefore, it needs to be added to the soil in advance, 5-6 months before landing. During this time, it is converted to a safe state, and nutrients will become available for plants. The supplement not only serves as feeding, but also acts as a baking powder for the soil of the garden.
2. Overventures can be applied in spring during the landing.

• horse - 5-6 kg;
• cow - 4-5 kg.

The amount of reworked manure decreases twice. Pork manure is not recommended to contribute fresh form Even in the fall due to the high content of aggressive nitrogen in ammonia form. Fertilizer needs to withstand at least a year before full overload. It is better to mix with horse or cow or lay in compost.

Mulching beveled grass

You can apply from early spring to late autumn. This type of soil feeding is related to MDA - slowly acting fertilizers. Mulch application allows:

1. Make the ground loose and soft on the garden and in the garden.
2. Save moisture, reducing evaporation.
3. Provide a constant feeding, thanks to the gradual decomposition of mulch.

The beveled grass is an effective baking powder for heavy clay soils.

Planting plants with long roots

Supporters of organic farming recommend improving the quality of the soil using the Siderators. Plants are sown, in which the roots contain nodule bacteria, exciting and binding nitrogen from the air. Thus, the natural environmentally friendly fertilizer is obtained. Thanks to the powerful root system, the Siderats make the soil crumbly, aerated it. This is especially important for heavy or peat lands. For improving the structure and fertility, the soil most often use bean plants, such as lupine, peas, alfalfa, vica or beans. Even if on your site a fertile soil, it periodically needs to be improved. To make the chernozem loose, it is also seeded with Siderats. It is environmentally friendly than to make bulk additives and pull.

Green manure

Improvement of the soil is not a one-time action. It is necessary to maintain the optimal state regularly. For this, it is not necessary to acquire expensive feeding. You can use vegetable material that is on each site:

• beveled lawn grass;
• sid weeds;
• suspended shoots;
• faded flowers and others.

In fact, it is a garden trash, but it can make an effective fertilizer from it. Experienced gardeners offer useful advice on the preparation of green feeding. Here is one of them:

• the capacity of large volume, for example, barrel, filled with chopped vegetable residues for two thirds;
• filled with water to the top;
• insist a week and a half, stirring daily.

Before the feeding, the resulting concentrated solution is filled and bred in a ratio of 1:10.

other methods

To improve the structure of heavy soil, the easiest way to use coarse washed river sand. In order to make a light soil from the middle lining, you will need 21 kg / m 2. It is about one and a half bucket with a volume of 10 liters. Sands are evenly distributed over the surface and drip at a depth of 20-25 cm, on a full bayonet shovel. In the preparation of a vegetable mixture for seedlings of sand is almost always used. It is stirred with peat and compost to get a light nutrient substrate. Good baking powers are fertilizers that contain calcium:

• lime hawed;
• dolomitic flour;
• ash.

They are brought into acidic soils to neutralize the pH level. Sometimes the optimization of the soil on the plot is a long and cost-effective process. It is easier to take a fertile land from manufacturers who make all the necessary components in advance.

Improve primer on the site yourself or add ready mix, Everyone decides himself. It depends on your financial capabilities and the volume of work.

We had more than twenty years ago my block of land. Got his parents. It was a former collective farm field, many years praised along and across. The first summer he was a sad sight: the blocks of the earth, pulled by a plow and solid as a stone, thickets of Byrian.

How to approach this, what to do?
But as they say: "The eyes are afraid - the hands are doing."

I had to dwell the commander of the land with shovels, torturing Burian. The first year had to do only to planting potatoes. Neither water or proper care, well, and the harvest is appropriate. In the fall, the first seedlings were planted, a berry was laid. There was no experience, they also planted aby-like, subsequently had to remake a lot (Eh, the current experience and at that time, how much strength and labor could be saved!).

Over time, the plot of our transformed, tried the first fruits of your work. The caring hands of the mother literally every grain of the earth missed themselves, there was not a single empty place, everything was planted around. Mine Kalina is growing, rabby blooming in the spring and rudely covered with cliffs of berries in autumn. Gradually, I had an interest in Earth, it was seen it was transmitted from Mom. I worked then in the north, at home only two weeks, but any free time tried to spend in the garden.

But moms did not. I had to gradually master the wisdom of growing seedlings, leaving plants. Put a bunch of cones, before something began to get.Gradually came the experience, but the sense of dissatisfaction did not leave me, too much effort was required to attach to get the result. There must be some way to not spend so many forces to produce a crop. And, it seemed to be found (as it turned out later, dead end).

I got into my hands brochure "Vegetable life on narrow beds, method D. Mitlider." After reading it, I said myself: "Here it is what you need." Just a half hundred and a half of the land, of which only the third part is processed to provide a family of four vegetables. I was looking forward to the spring, broke a bed (45 cm wide, meter track), mineral fertilizers were made, as it was indicated, landed seedlings, sowed seeds. Every week brought a portion of fertilizers according to calculations. The crop turned out good. Next year again well. "Here it is as you need!" - I thought. But for the third year I feel: something is wrong.

The land became Claude, turned into dust, the slightest lack of moisture - and she became like a stone, had to constantly water, but the Earth refused to take water. From the permanent mapping of "mineral water" the soil became acidic, had to make a large amount of lime. Rain worms began to leave the beds. I stubbornly continued to work according to Mitlider. Earth died ...

But as they say: "There would be no happiness, but misfortune helped." Spring 2003, infarction, about work on earth can not be and speech - doctors banned. But how can you excite from your favorite garden. I decided: "I will not bother!". Yes, it was not there, I picked up a shovel, proofled with meter and that's it. I had to plant and sow into non-added beds, it was only supersed with a humus.

In this hard time and fell into my hands the book Nikolai Kurdyumov "Smart Garden and Sly Garden". I read and thought: "What the hell does not joke, I have nothing to lose, suddenly it will succeed." And I took the case.

Well, of course, in the first year, everything was not working as it should, but "Likha trouble began." I stopped to dig (I still could not die), only loosened, as far as possible mulched the soil, it began to apply EM-preparations, first Baikal, and then radiance.

On the tracks, which I have screamed before the brilliance, allowed the grass to grow. As it grows, it turned it up and used as a mulch. "Weeds" went into the move, and they from enemies turned into assistants. The roots penetrate them into such a depth, reach from there and leave after the mass of nutrients, which would be stupid not to take advantage of this for the benefit.

As soon as the possibility of sowed seeds appearedwhose roots were replaced by a shovel, and the green mass after cutting served as shelter from the scorching sun, and as they decompose, and food for the next generation of plants.

The beds never remained empty, except for early spring. The abundance of the organic attracted the mass of rainworms, and now the main work on improving the soil lies on them.

Appeared on my site and wild herbs: Yarrow, Cellular, Dormon, Speert. Somehow prepared infusion from nettle, used it, and the remnants scattered over the site. Now I have my nettle grows in several places, cut off in one place for infusion, next time in another, look, and she has already acted again.

There was even a place for wormwood, the twigs in the cabbage, nor a cruciferous fleeper, and I don't like the Belyanka, and the infusion helps from many pests. Yes, and pest problems were solved.

Healthy, severe plants can and stand up for themselves. By the way, began to notice that many insects, which we consider pests prefer to settle on weeds if they are.

In the greenhouse, for example, if the odds are growing (such a spiny plant), then the till does not touch my cucumbers. In the thick grass there is where to hide my helpers - predatory insects. I settled my lizards and frogs. Well, don't you need twigsmicks after that?

Gradually the earth began to come to life And it became clear that it can be working on Earth without unnecessary effort. Six years my land does not know what a shovel is, and every year it becomes better and better. Plants almost do not get sick, "pests and weeds" are less and less, and the work in the garden delivers only pleasure.

Ildus Hannanov, Ufa