The trouble is that not every disease can be immediately identified by the appearance of beets when storing them - sometimes the core of root crops imperceptibly rots or internal voids are formed. You will find an unpleasant surprise after you cut the beets, and in the meantime, the infection has time to move to healthy roots.

The main diseases of beet, sugar and fodder

In order to harvest beets calmly or on the balcony until spring, it is necessary to select only high-quality, healthy roots, because beet diseases can quickly spread and leave you without vegetables for the winter.

That is why it is so important to pay attention to preventive measures and timely control of various diseases and pests of beets.

Video about sugar beet disease

Prevention measures for beet diseases:

• planting disease-tolerant varieties,
• fertilizing beets with fertilizers,
• correct agricultural technology,
• timely,
• careful examination of plants during the growing season and root crops before sending them for storage.

Weakened plants get sick much more often, therefore, it is imperative to periodically apply additional fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium, complex fertilizers with various microelements and add rotted organic matter to the beds.

Fomoz

The lack of boron in the soil contributes to the defeat of beets by fomoz (zonal spotting). A fungal disease manifests itself in the form of brownish or yellowish concentric spots on the surface of the lower leaves, later black dots also appear. With fomoz, the affected leaves and shoots of the testes die off, dry rot of the beet heart develops - after cutting the root crop, you will see dark brown tissues.

Phomosis develops most rapidly with frequent drizzling rains, fogs, high air humidity and abundant dew at moderate temperatures. Spores spread in rainy, windy weather. The causative agent of phomosis is preserved in the testes, on the seeds and on the affected plant debris.

The introduction of borax into the soil, as well as the processing of root crops before storage with solutions of Fundazol, Benazol, Rovral, TMTD, helps to protect beets from fomoz.

Cercospora

Up to 70% of the root crop can be lost due to a common disease such as beetroot cercosporosis or spotting. The defeat of the leaves by the causative agent of the disease leads to their death and to a deterioration in the keeping quality of root crops. The disease can be identified by the small light spots that appear on the leaves, bordered with a reddish stripe, and by a light gray bloom on the underside of the leaves.

Young leaves are not affected by the disease, but the old ones gradually turn black and begin to die off. Instead, beets grow new leaves, expending nutrients that should have gone into the formation of root crops.

The causative agent of the disease hibernates in plant debris and perennial weeds. Cercosporosis of beets develops at + 16 + 20 degrees and with excessive soil moisture.

Measures to combat cercosporosis: growing beets after predecessors resistant to this disease, choosing tolerant varieties of beets, controlling weeds and destroying plant residues, treating seeds with Agat-25 and spraying plantings with the fungicide Rovral.

Peronosporosis

Downy mildew, also known as downy mildew, is common in beets in cold, humid weather. With this disease, a grayish-purple bloom appears on the underside of the leaves, the leaf blades curl downward with the edges, turn pale, crumble and dry out in hot weather, or rot from dampness. Also, the affected shoots of the testes become covered with bloom, deformed and die off. The harvested root vegetables quickly begin to rot during storage.

To protect beets from peronosporosis, you need to pay attention to crop rotation, harvesting plant residues, dressing the seeds before sowing with Apron and spray the plants with fungicides during the growing season.

Corneed

By the name, you might think that we are talking about a pest, but the root-eater is infectioncausing damage to young seedlings of beets. At first, the stems at the seedlings turn black and become thin, and then die. Seedlings affected by the infection also die, not even reaching the soil surface.

Usually, the root eater spreads on heavy soils, in lowlands, in spots over the site. Lack of aeration, crust on the surface of the soil and increased acidity of the soil contributes to the spread of infection.

For prophylaxis in the fall, it is recommended to liming the soil, in the spring, before sowing, add a solution of borax to the soil, and mulch the sown seeds with peat or humus. And do not forget to loosen the aisles to prevent crust formation.

Rot

At the beginning of summer, there is a high risk of damage to beets. fusarium rot, especially if the plants were damaged during loosening or weakened by drought. With fusarium, the lower leaves of young beets wither, the petioles turn black at the very base, and side roots form at the root. If you dig up a root vegetable, you can see cracks on it filled with white bloom.

In the middle of summer, the tail of the beet root affects brown rot... It spreads with excessive moisture or with an excess of nitrogen in the soil. With severe damage, a brown felt bloom appears on the petioles of the beet and begins to creep along the soil surface.

To protect beets from fusarium and brown rot, you need to feed the plantings with organic and mineral fertilizers containing boron, lime acidic soils, deeply loosen the aisles on highly moist soils, alternate crops and fight pests. Affected plants must be immediately removed from the garden and burned.

Video about the problem of diseases on sugar beet

Common beet pests

Improper agricultural practices, especially untimely destruction of weeds in beet beds and non-observance of crop rotation leads to the defeat of beets by various pests. The most common are the following:

• beet fly - yellow larvae cause harm, eating up wide passages in beet leaves;
• miner fly - in the same way "perforates" the leaves, but its larvae are white;
• beet aphid - located on the lower part of the beet leaves and sucks the juice out of them, preventing the development of the entire plant;
• beet flea - its white half-centimeter larvae feed on beet roots;
• beetroot beet - a bug resembling a bug damages young shoots of beets and eats holes in the leaves of adult plants.

You can eliminate most of these pests from planting beets by regularly killing weeds and preventing them from growing nearby. From beet aphids, beets can be sprayed with onion peel infusion and spread on ladybird plantings, helps against aphids and spraying plants with Iskra Bio.

The common beet and miner flies can be dealt with by treating the beets with Iskra or Iskra Zolotaya, as well as karbofos. Against a flea, an effective remedy is considered to be the treatment of beet beds with an infusion of ash or dusting with tobacco dust. You can also deal with beet pests with the help of deep autumn digging of the beds.

Prevention of diseases in the beet bed

It is not worth sowing beetroot year after year, as this will lead to the accumulation of pathogens of clump rot, nematodes in the ground and will sharply reduce the overall crop yield.

The simplest and at the same time the main means of preventing many diseases and the appearance of pests is still crop rotation. By the way, winter wheat and corn for green fodder are considered the best predecessors. Return the root crop to its original area no earlier than after a couple of years.

Disease resistance also depends on plant nutrition. So, fully applied organic and mineral fertilizers reduce the risk of damage by cercosporosis, cornea, rot. If the soil is acidic, liming of the beds will save from the same misfortunes, and deep autumn plowing will lead to the death of pests.

In addition, regular loosening of the soil will help increase resistance to disease. But all these preventive measures will be ineffective if suddenly the lesions turn out to be too large. Then chemicals will come to the rescue. So let's see what diseases of beetroot affect it most often?

Diseases of beetroot and how to fight

Common scab

The disease can be detected when digging up roots or during storage. Shallow scab-like cracks or crusts form on the surface, which quickly become covered with cork tissue. The infected fruit becomes dense, loses its commercial qualities and is stored for much less time in winter. Scab usually appears in areas where fresh, straw manure was applied.

What do we have to do:

• remove plant residues;
• observe crop rotation;
• spray Cartocide, Abiga-peak, Copper oxychloride.

Root seedling (black leg)

The main signs of a fungal disease are darkening, thinning of seedlings, roots, which usually leads to the death of crops. Sometimes the seedlings can die before the seedlings appear on the surface of the earth. The rootworm is quite active on acidic, heavy soils in wet weather. With a weak infection, the plants can survive, but the yield will be smaller, of lower quality.

What to do:

• it is imperative to carry out preventive liming of the soil, if necessary, add a boron solution;
• use only treated seeds, for example, with a preparation TMTD;
• observe crop rotation;
• to thin out seedlings in a timely manner, remove weeds;
• regularly loosen the soil crust, providing air access to the roots.

The disease manifests itself on adult leaves, which are covered with dry brown spots with a reddish border. Subsequently, they turn black and die off, and instead of them the plant begins to intensively grow new ones, consuming the supply of nutrients intended for the formation of root crops. Yields are falling rapidly. The disease develops rapidly with alternating hot and too humid weather. The infection can persist on plant debris and weeds.

Control measures:

1. be sure to observe crop rotation, carefully remove weeds, residues after growing crops;
2. process seeds Agatom-25;
3. spray with copper preparations every week. Can be applied HOM, Fundazole, Copper oxychloride, Carbendazim, Propiconazole.

Rope rot

Diseases develop during winter storage, they are caused by fungi and bacteria. Molds of different colors, wet or dry rot are observed on root crops. The manifestation of the disease depends on the type and nature of the microorganism, storage conditions. Affected fruits should not be used as food or fed to livestock.

Preventive action:

1. during the growing season to fight pests;
2. provide optimal soil moisture and balanced mineral fertilizing;
3. try to minimize injury to root crops during harvesting, bookmarks for storage.

Beet pests

Wireworm

Enemy number 1 of all root crops is the larva of the click beetle (aka wireworm). It feeds on seeds, seedlings, tubers, plant roots. The pest can be exterminated only by comprehensive measures, starting from strict adherence to crop rotation. Wheatgrass growing on the site is a favorite delicacy of the larvae, so you need to get rid of it first. During the spring digging, the wireworm is selected by hand, then destroyed. The baits spread out over the site, which are left for several days, help well in the fight. It can be potatoes, carrots, strung on a stick. Per sq. meter, 3 such traps are placed at a depth of 10 cm. The procedure is carried out 10 days before sowing.

Beet aphid

Aphids can be leaf and root, settle in places according to their name. Leaf view sucks the juices from the leaves, causing them to curl. As a result, the weight of root crops is noticeably reduced. Aphids are destroyed by folk and chemical means.

What to do:

• spray with a decoction of tobacco with soap (10 grams of soap per liter of water, 50 grams of tobacco), or just soapy water (30 grams of soap per liter);
• pollinate plants Feverfew, Hexachloran, DDT.

Colonies of root aphids live on the roots, sucking the juice from the fruit. The pest has no wings and hibernates right there, in the ground. From April to September gives at least 10 generations. The plant withers and may die.

How to fight:

• treat the beds with any insecticide;
• observe crop rotation.

Beet fleas

Jumping small bugs, black with a greenish tint, eat away the inner part of the leaves. Subsequently, through holes are formed at the sites of damage, which lead to the death of young plants. It is necessary to start the fight against the pest with weeding out the weeds, where it usually multiplies.

In addition, you need:

• sprinkle crops with tobacco dust, lime (slaked) or ash;
• pollinate the beds with powder DDT (5%) or Hexachloran (1%).

Miner fly

The ash-colored fly lays (mines) eggs on the lower leaf blade. The hatched larvae penetrate the leaf and eat it from the inside. The damaged areas die off, the yield and sugar content of the fruits decreases. During the summer, two to four generations of miner flies appear.

What to do:

• tear off the leaves with pests and destroy;
• remove weeds, especially quinoa;
• pollinate the beds DDT, Hexachloran... Consumption rate - 2 g per "square";
• practice autumn digging of soil.

grounde.ru

Diseases of beet, sugar and fodder beets, as well as common pests

The trouble is that not every disease can be immediately identified by the appearance of beets when storing them - sometimes the core of root crops imperceptibly rots or internal voids are formed. You will find an unpleasant surprise after you cut the beets, and in the meantime, the infection has time to move to healthy roots.

The main diseases of beet, sugar and fodder

In order for the beet crop to be safely stored in the cellar or on the balcony until spring, it is necessary to select only high-quality, healthy root crops, because beet diseases can quickly spread and leave you without vegetables for the winter.

That is why it is so important to pay attention to preventive measures and timely control of various diseases and pests of beets. Video about sugar beet disease

Prevention measures for beet diseases:

• planting disease-tolerant varieties,
• fertilizing beets with fertilizers,
• correct agricultural technology,
• timely harvesting,
• careful examination of plants during the growing season and root crops before sending them for storage.

Weakened plants get sick much more often, therefore, it is imperative to periodically apply additional fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium, complex fertilizers with various microelements and add rotted organic matter to the beds.

Fomoz

The lack of boron in the soil contributes to the defeat of beets by fomoz (zonal spotting). A fungal disease manifests itself in the form of brownish or yellowish concentric spots on the surface of the lower leaves, later black dots also appear. With fomoz, the affected leaves and shoots of the testes die off, dry rot of the beet heart develops - after cutting the root crop, you will see dark brown tissues.

Phomosis develops most rapidly with frequent drizzling rains, fogs, high air humidity and abundant dew at moderate temperatures. Spores spread in rainy, windy weather. The causative agent of phomosis is preserved in the testes, on the seeds and on the affected plant debris.

The introduction of borax into the soil, as well as the processing of root crops before storage with solutions of Fundazol, Benazol, Rovral, TMTD, helps to protect beets from fomoz.

Cercospora

Up to 70% of the root crop can be lost due to a common disease such as beetroot cercosporosis or spotting. The defeat of the leaves by the causative agent of the disease leads to their death and to a deterioration in the keeping quality of root crops. The disease can be identified by the small light spots that appear on the leaves, bordered with a reddish stripe, and by a light gray bloom on the underside of the leaves. Young leaves are not affected by the disease, but the old ones gradually turn black and begin to die off. Instead, beets grow new leaves, expending nutrients that should have gone into the formation of root crops.

The causative agent of the disease hibernates in plant debris and perennial weeds. Cercosporosis of beets develops at + 16 + 20 degrees and with excessive soil moisture.

Measures to combat cercosporosis: growing beets after predecessors resistant to this disease, choosing tolerant varieties of beets, controlling weeds and destroying plant residues, treating seeds with Agat-25 and spraying plantings with the fungicide Rovral.

Peronosporosis

Downy mildew, also known as downy mildew, is common in beets in cold, humid weather. With this disease, a grayish-purple bloom appears on the underside of the leaves, the leaf blades curl downward with the edges, turn pale, crumble and dry out in hot weather, or rot from dampness. Also, the affected shoots of the testes become covered with bloom, deformed and die off. The harvested root vegetables quickly begin to rot during storage.

To protect beets from peronosporosis, you need to pay attention to crop rotation, harvesting plant residues, dressing the seeds before sowing with Apron and spray the plants with fungicides during the growing season.

Corneed

By the name, you might think that we are talking about a pest, but the root-eater is an infectious disease that causes damage to young seedlings of beets. At first, the stems at the seedlings turn black and become thin, and then die. Seedlings affected by the infection also die, not even reaching the soil surface.

Usually, the root eater spreads on heavy soils, in lowlands, in spots over the site. Lack of aeration, crust on the surface of the soil and increased acidity of the soil contributes to the spread of infection.

For prophylaxis in the fall, it is recommended to liming the soil, in the spring, before sowing, add a solution of borax to the soil, and mulch the sown seeds with peat or humus. And do not forget to loosen the aisles to prevent crust formation.

Rot

In the photo, beets affected by rot

At the beginning of summer, there is a high risk of damage to beets. fusarium rot, especially if the plants were damaged during loosening or weakened by drought. With fusarium, the lower leaves of young beets wither, the petioles turn black at the very base, and side roots form at the root. If you dig up a root vegetable, you can see cracks on it filled with white bloom.

In the middle of summer, the tail of the beet root affects brown rot... It spreads with excessive moisture or with an excess of nitrogen in the soil. With severe damage, a brown felt bloom appears on the petioles of the beet and begins to creep along the soil surface.

To protect beets from fusarium and brown rot, you need to feed the plantings with organic and mineral fertilizers containing boron, lime acidic soils, deeply loosen the aisles on highly moist soils, alternate crops and fight pests. Affected plants must be immediately removed from the garden and burned. Video about the problem of diseases on sugar beet

Common beet pests

Improper agricultural practices, especially untimely destruction of weeds in beet beds and non-observance of crop rotation leads to the defeat of beets by various pests. The most common are the following:

• beet fly - yellow larvae cause harm, eating up wide passages in beet leaves;
• miner fly - in the same way "perforates" the leaves, but its larvae are white;
• beet aphid - located on the lower part of the beet leaves and sucks the juice out of them, preventing the development of the entire plant;
• beet flea - its white half-centimeter larvae feed on beet roots;
• beetroot beet - a bug resembling a bug damages young shoots of beets and eats holes in the leaves of adult plants.

In the photo beet aphid

You can eliminate most of these pests from planting beets by regularly killing weeds and preventing them from growing nearby. From beet aphids, beets can be sprayed with onion peel infusion and spread on ladybird plantings; it helps against aphids and spraying plants with Iskra Bio. The common beet and miner flies can be dealt with by treating the beets with Iskra or Iskra Zolotaya, as well as karbofos. Against a flea, an effective remedy is considered to be the treatment of beet beds with an infusion of ash or dusting with tobacco dust. You can also deal with beet pests with the help of deep autumn digging of the beds.

orchardo.ru

Caring for garden crops includes pest control measures. In cramped conditions, even crop rotation does not save. So, pests of cruciferous plants simultaneously harm haze. Insects that have developed on fruit shrubs colonize beet leaves, if processing is not carried out in time. Knowing beet pests and measures to combat them is necessary for every gardener.

Preventive actions

Before sowing beets, soil preparation is carried out. If there are rodents or earthen moles and bears on the site, they are a threat to any greenery. Therefore, all measures of struggle are aimed at removing uninvited guests from the site. It is best if the expulsion occurs before the seeds are sown. For this, traps and the excavation of bear holes, poisoned baits, flooding of passages made by moles and bears are used.

If vole mice live on the site, then the question of who gnaws beets in the garden is unambiguously resolved. You need to get a kitty, and the mice will go away.

In addition, there are enough hunters to feast on young sweet tops and roots. But if in the fall the site has been cleared of plant debris, there are no reserves that mice could eat in winter, then there is more guarantee that the rodents have not settled in. Reducing the number of other pests in the ground can be:

• deep digging of the soil in autumn and spring;
• laid out traps and baits for bear and wireworm;
• sprinkling the holes and seedlings of beets with ash, tobacco dust, deterrent drugs;
• keeping the beet bed clean from weeds and in the moist state of the surface layer of the soil.

Digging the soil destroys the paths of pests. The wireworm is collected at the same time. It is especially good to carry out digging in the fall before freezing in order to destroy pests in the upper fertile layer.

Ash is a fertilizer for beets at all stages of their growth, but it will not allow beet fleas and slugs on the garden bed. Weeds are breeding grounds for the primary development of insects, which then move to cultivated plants.

Beet pests and control

In order to fight you need to know the enemy by sight. Of the many insects and diseases, the most harmful and common ones can be distinguished. Photos of the disease and pest of beets will help determine the disease.

Beetles

From the very beginning of the development of young plants, adult beetles cause harm, which eat up the leaves and the growth point. The beetle is dark green, with a pearlescent sheen. It is small, about two millimeters, and its larvae are just as small. You can fight it with ash powder and Inta-vira.

A dangerous pest is a bear or earth crayfish. This beetle is 50 mm long. He lives in the ground, hibernates in deep non-freezing layers. Medvedka arranges nests and lays eggs. The larvae do no less harm by gnawing the roots of plants. The fact that this pest appeared in the garden can be judged by the path of withered plants and burrows in the ground.

Nematode

Another secretive pest is the nematode, a worm that lives in the ground and does great harm by eating roots and laying cysts on roots. When the nematode settles, the plant lags behind in growth and dies. You can fight this pest with the help of autumn sowing of siderates - mustard, rapeseed. At the same time, the nematodes crawl to the plants, which are then mowed down and the ground plowed deeply. This is how most of the pest is destroyed.

One of the most common pests. If the beet leaves dry up, you need to carefully look at the inside, the larvae are transparent and similar to caterpillars. You can get rid of the pest by picking the leaves with pests, and treating the planting with an insecticide. The earth needs to be loosened and spilled with an ash solution. The fly lives on weeds and moves to cultivated plants.

The insect causes considerable harm to plants. A small bug, only 3-5 mm in size, eats five times its weight per day. It multiplies rapidly and the leaves infected with the bug acquire blistering. If you do not fight the pest, the plant will die. And again, the root cause of the spread of the insect is the weed on which it is bred.

A small brown butterfly fluttering among the plants does not cause fear among summer residents. But this is a malicious pest, a mining moth. She makes a clutch of eggs on cuttings of beet leaves, and young caterpillars penetrate deep into the fruit and gnaw holes in it. This pest damages all types of beets. She dies. If a mining moth appears, then after harvesting, you need to remove the tops and treat the land with an insecticide.

Phomosis and cercosporosis of root crops

Beet diseases are of infectious and physiological origin. Physiological changes include changes in the plant due to lack of nutrients or their imbalance. Phomosis of roots and leaves with a lack of boron in the soil can become such a disease. From this, hollowness of root crops is formed.

The first signs of phomosis will be a change in the leaf blade. It represents lightened spots with dark dots in the middle.

Cercosporosis of beet leaves begins to develop at high air humidity or prolonged rains.

In addition, beets are affected by various rot, powdery mildew and beet root. All of them arise from improper plant care.

Video about the beet pest - nematode

glav-dacha.ru

Beet diseases: visual photos, detailed description and situational treatment

Juicy and rich in microelements, beets are a favorite habitat for many pathogens. You need to know the diseases of beets: their photos, descriptions and treatment are something that every gardener will definitely come in handy. Because due to diseases, the yield of the root crop is significantly reduced. If you do not take any measures, then you can lose up to 70% of the crop.

To avoid losses, you need to know the first signs of illness. This will help to detect them in a timely manner and take appropriate measures. It is also necessary to have an understanding of the primary and secondary sources of infection.

Signs of downy mildew or beetroot downy mildew

That disease affects beets in every region of our country. On the root crop of the first year of growth, curling, thickening and discoloration of the leaves is noted. Why do the lower leaves of beets turn yellow? Because they were affected by fungal spores, which are clearly visible on the lower part of the leaf in wet weather. The first sign of imminent leaf wilting is a purple-gray bloom on the leaf plate. Affected leaves first turn pale gray, then turn yellow, dry out or begin to rot.

Later, the infection spreads to the central rosette, peripheral buds, flower-bearing shoots, perianths and seeds. Therefore, it is impossible to collect full-fledged seed material from such plants.

In one season, the mushroom can give several generations of spores. And the development of the disease is greatly facilitated by high humidity and cool temperatures. In order for the mushroom to germinate and begin to divide, it needs dripping moisture. Under suitable conditions, the ripening time for spores is reduced from 8 to 5 days.

Sources of infection are:

• Self-sowing plants overwintered after harvest;
• Diseased root crops of this year: removed from the garden, but left within the site;
• Sick root crops of the last year, which remained in the ground, and this year have formed their own rosette;
• Infected seed.

Signs of beet ascochitis

The lower, old leaves are first covered with blue-green spots, which later become necrotic brown sporulation foci. In the center of the brown spot there are many dark dots - this is the concentration of pathogens.

Following the leaves, the fungus infects peduncles, seed plants and even root crops. During one vegetative period of the beet, the mushroom can give several tens of generations. The damaged tops quickly die off, because of this, the development of the vegetable stops, and the yield of the plot falls by at least 15-17%.

And you can get rid of ascochitis and peronosporosis only with the help of fungicides. In addition, it is very important to maintain the correct fertilization system. It is necessary to form it taking into account the needs of the soil and the vegetable itself. Doses of top dressing should not only be balanced, but also justified by the urgent need for root crops.

Signs of cercosporosis: fungal pathogen and its treatment

Beet cercosporosis is a leaf spot caused by a pathogenic fungus. Every year, this disease deprives many summer residents of their legal harvest, because it develops very quickly and aggressively.

On the vegetable itself, this disease manifests itself under the guise of numerous round and oval spots that have a gray-brown tint. The spot has a characteristic brown necrotic border. The diameter of the fungal infection is up to 6 mm. Over time, the necrotic parts merge, and the entire leaf is affected. The dried tissue falls off.

If urgent measures are not taken, then the pathogenic fungus will very quickly pass from the focal form of existence to the occupation of the entire plot. With such active reproduction, there is a high risk of death of all green tops.

Measures to combat beet cercosperosis are as follows:

• Preventive treatment of plots with beets with Rex Duo and Abacus preparations. The consumption rate for preventive measures is 0.7 liters per hectare.
• Urgent use of fungicides such as Abacus, Rex and Tango. Which are characterized by high antifungal effectiveness. And also have the longest period of protection, up to harvest. This method is most effective for early detection of infected plants;
• Collection and incineration of infected plants. All manipulations for the disposal of spore-bearing parts are best carried out outside of your site, which will help to avoid the spread of the fungus by air.

Redness of beet leaves and petioles: illness or nutritional deficiencies

Why do beets have red leaves? This situation is often observed both at the time of seedling growth and in open beds.

In the first case, a variety of factors can act as the root cause, for example, instead of river sand, sea sand was mixed into the soil mixture. In case of such poisoning, the plants must be urgently transplanted, and their roots must be thoroughly rinsed with water.

Also, the leaves of the seedlings may turn red if additional fertilizing has been added to the already fertilized factory soil mixture. With an overabundance of trace elements, the tops of the seedlings first turn red, and then dry out and die off completely.

What to do if red leaves of beets have already appeared in the open field? The reasons that could cause redness, in this case, can be much more:

• Insufficient amount of applied phosphorus fertilizers. The solution to the problem is very simple: it is enough to simply add the necessary preparations to the soil.
• Increased acidity of the soil. Alkalization or oxidation of the soil prevents the beets from assimilating the necessary fertilizing and minerals. Therefore, the growth of the root crop is minimal, and its tops acquire a crimson-red hue. Solution: water the area with milk of lime, and thus "acidify" the soil.
• Sodium deficiency. Solution to the problem: during the next watering, you need to add table salt to the water, in the ratio: one tablespoon of sodium per 10 liters of water. After the earthen coma dries, you can sprinkle the plot with wood ash, which will help the plants to stock up on the necessary minerals.

How to grow beautiful, tasty and healthy beets - video

glav-dacha.ru

Beets are one of the main vegetable crops, especially in winter. She is not picky about growing conditions, everyone can grow her. But, like every culture, it is affected by various diseases. Among them, three main ones can be distinguished: root eater, cercosporosis, phomosis.

Corneed Is a disease that affects seedlings and seedlings of a plant. Brown and rotten roots and root collar at seedlings can become signs of the disease. In the affected areas, the tissue begins to turn brown, the stem becomes thinner, and the lateral roots do not develop. The beet plant begins to wilt, turn yellow and eventually die.

The disease leads to sparse seedlings. Plants that have recovered may continue to grow, but the plants will stagnate. The yield of such plants drops significantly.

The greatest development of this beet disease is observed on moist clay and loamy soils. Low swimming spots are ideal conditions for microorganisms. Acidic soil can additionally affect disease resistance. Abundant precipitation and low air temperature during seed germination have a negative effect.

Contaminated soil or seeds can cause the disease. Root-eater mushrooms overwinter in the form of various structures. The disease can accumulate on plants such as quinoa, bird buckwheat, etc.

To prevent the development of the disease, preventive and agrotechnical measures should be applied. Of these, it is recommended:

- apply a full range of mineral and chemical fertilizers
- observe crop rotation
- select varieties resistant to fungal diseases
- treat plants with stimulating and immunity-enhancing agents

The destruction of the soil crust near the seedlings reduces the percentage of affected plants.

The next beet disease is cercosporosis... It mainly affects leaves, less often petioles and stems. The first signs of the disease appear on old leaves, usually in early June. On the affected leaves, necrotic brown spots with a red border are formed. Gradually, the spots increase, covering the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe leaf. In rainy weather, the disease can become widespread. A grayish sandy bloom forms on the affected area. On the affected stems and petioles, the spots are oval in shape.

Mass infection of plants is manifested in the complete drying of leaves, wilting and soon the death of the plant. In the first period, the plant tries to compensate for the loss of leaf mass by actively trying to form new leaves. For their formation, the plant uses additional nutrients, which depletes the soil. In the later stages of the lesion, the roots lose their elasticity, and the root crop becomes soft, keeping quality is significantly reduced.

The source of the disease is dead leaves and other debris in which cercosporosis fungi are located. The disease can also accumulate in weeds.

Of the protection measures, the following are distinguished:

- crop rotation
- tillage
- application of a complex of fertilizers
- spraying with fungicides

One of the main diseases of beets is phomosis... The disease affects seedlings, on a mature plant - root crops, leaves, petioles, stem. The disease manifests itself as brown or gray spots. The spots have a rounded color, on which concentric zones are located.

On root crops, the disease is visible on a cut - a tissue covered in black. Later, voids form in the roots, sometimes a whitish bloom is visible along the edges. Plant debris and seeds are the source of the disease.

Measures to combat phomosis can be as follows:

- crop rotation
- cleaning of plant residues
- fungicide treatment
- disinfection of seeds
- creation of optimal conditions for the growth and development of beets.

indasad.ru

Beet diseases and the fight against them: photos and descriptions

Beetroot is justifiably considered an unpretentious garden crop, which even a beginner can grow. But sometimes strong, healthy tops are covered with reddish and brown spots, the leaves curl and dry out, and the development of root crops is suspended. In this case, even experienced growers have questions. Why do the leaves turn yellow, and the beets grow poorly?

According to experts, by the tops one can judge the state of the whole plant. There can be several reasons for the deterioration of the health of garden beets. Among them are overly acidic or saturated with moisture soils, lack of mineral and nutrients and breaks in irrigation. Unfortunately, it is possible that the plants were attacked by fungi that cause diseases of the beet, the leaves of which were the first to react to the infection. At the same time, the appearance of root crops before they enter the storage may not suffer, but in winter you can lose all the harvest.

Descriptions and photos of beet diseases, as well as methods of combating them, will help you notice dangerous symptoms in time, start treating plants and master the simplest ways of prevention.

Phomosis: disease of the leaves of beets and their roots

Beet leaf disease, accompanied by the appearance of yellowish or brown rounded spots on the leaf plates, often having a concentric pattern, I call phoma, pith rot or zonal spotting. The disease spreads from the lower leaves, which die due to rapidly developing foci of infection. If the disease overtakes the beets in the second year of life, the peduncle dies off, and the root crop itself, if stored, very soon decays.

Why do beet leaves turn yellow, and what should be done to stop the process and not lose the crop?

Cool, rainy weather contributes to the development of the disease, as well as the fallout of abundant dew in the second half of summer, when night temperatures are already quite low. With gusts of rain and wind, spores of the harmful fungus spread throughout the plantation, and in winter the pathogen dangerous disease beet leaves wait out in dead foliage left in the garden, on affected root crops and even on seeds.

It is noticed that the lack of boron in the soil contributes to the appearance of the disease, and the timely introduction of this trace element, for example, in the form of borax, will serve as both a good preventive measure and a means of combating the disease.

Methods of control and prevention:

• The treatment of seeds and root crops with Fundazol helps to protect the beds from the pathogen of fomoza.
• In the last growing season, beet plants are fertilized with products containing potassium.
• We must not forget about observance of the rules of crop rotation, timely weeding of beet rows and thinning of seedlings.
• All fallen plant residues from the ridges are removed and burned.

If on the site the disease has already made itself felt, the plantings must be treated with Fundazol or other systemic fungicides. The beets sent to the storage are regularly sorted out, rejecting rotten and soft root crops, after which the containers for vegetables are disinfected and dried.

Beet cercosporosis: what to do if the leaves turn red?

Gardeners looking for an answer to the question: "Why do the leaves on beets turn red, and how to cope with this problem?", Most often face the manifestation of cercospora. The disease is caused by fungal pathogens and is detected by first reddish and then light spots in the center with a purple or burgundy border that appear on the foliage. If you look at the back of the affected leaf, you will notice a light gray bloom.

The lower, adult leaves on the rosette are attacked. Gradually the number of stains increases. The size of the foci of this disease of beet leaves grows, and the drying tissue in the center is destroyed.

Plants susceptible to cercosporosis weaken, since diseased leaves die off, and beets spend energy not on the formation of a root crop, but on the renewal of the aboveground green part.

Without effective measures to control beet disease, the propagation of a harmful fungus reduces the yield by almost half. Fodder and sugar beets are particularly affected. The causative agent of cercosporosis is most active in rainy weather at temperatures from +16 ° C, while spores of the fungus overwinter on the stems and root zone of perennial weeds, as well as on plant litter not harvested from the beds.

As measures to combat the development of the disease, carry out:

• preliminary dressing of seeds;
• selection of varieties and hybrids resistant to the disease of beet leaves;
• with a frequency of 7-10 days, spraying with products containing copper preparations;
• thinning of seedlings at the stage of 2-3 leaves;
• regular weeding of beds and removal of dead leaves;
• selection of a site for sowing, taking into account previous plantings;
• spraying existing plantings with a fungicide.

The spotting of beet leaves, which occurs when plants are sick with ramulariasis, resembles the one that develops with cercospora. However, there are still differences in this beet leaf disease. The foci of the disease in this case are lighter, at first even brown-green, and small, reaching a maximum of 1.5 cm in diameter. But even inside such small spots, the tissue of the leaf plate dries up, dies and collapses. The crimson or brown border is vague.

The disease with ramulariasis makes itself felt in the second half of the summer. The first spots can be seen on the lower leaves, and then the disease spreads to both young tops and petioles.

What to do if beet leaves turn red and spots signaling ramulariasis appear on their plates? Since the pathogen can overwinter even on roots and seeds, ramulariasis is observed on seedlings, as well as on peduncles. The fungus develops in a humid environment, at low positive temperatures, causing large losses in the yield of fodder beets, as well as other types of cultivated plants. The fight against beet disease includes both preventive measures and treatment with fungicidal preparations of systemic action, as in the case of cercosporosis.

Peronosporosis: what to do and why beet leaves turn yellow

Downy mildew or downy mildew affects beets also in wet weather and is accompanied by yellowing, and then twisting and death of the leaf blades. Why do beet leaves turn yellow, and what to do if this disease has affected the garden beds? The cause of foliage death is a harmful fungus, whose dispersal and reproduction can be seen on the tops, covered with brown drying or decaying spots. On the back, a gray or purple bloom is clearly visible. These are spores of a fungus ready for further resettlement.

You can save crops from downy mildew:

• dressing the seeds of this culture before planting in the soil;
• removing plant residues during the growing season and after harvest;
• spraying plants with fungicides.

An effective measure to combat beet leaf disease can be considered periodic processing of plantings with Bordeaux liquid.

Fusarium: a disease of beet leaves and root crops

If the gardener notices that the lower leaves of young plants for no apparent reason turn yellow, discolor and wither along with the petioles, this cannot but alert. Why are the leaves yellow and the beets grow poorly in this case? Perhaps the beets in the garden are infected with fusarium. The disease that begins with the leaves of beets affects not only the tops, but also the roots. In the process of the development of the disease, the foliage decays or dries up, the fungus also penetrates into the tissue of the rhizome, as evidenced by the mycelium visible on the cut of the root.

Why do the leaves turn yellow, and what to do with beets already affected by the disease? Unlike other beet diseases, Fusarium spreads from the root up the plant and can kill it.

The disease of beets, as in the photo, causes the greatest harm to plantings that lack watering, as well as to beets damaged during hilling or weeding.

Measures to protect beets from fusarium include:

• feeding with mineral and organic fertilizers, paying attention to products containing boron;
• liming of acidic soils;
• observance of the rules of alternation of garden crops during crop rotation;
• deep loosening of the soil in the aisles;
• regular and sufficient watering;
• weed and pest control.

Beet plants affected by rot are removed and destroyed so that the infection does not affect neighboring plants.

Measures for the prevention of beet diseases

The danger of beet diseases and the need for effective measures to combat them is due to the fact that the external manifestations of these diseases in the form of reddening or yellowing of leaves are not always equivalent to true damage. Cavities and rot inside root crops are only found during storage, when most of the beets are wastedly discarded.

Preventive measures are extremely important, which do not give the fungi-causative agents of diseases of beet leaves and root crops, not the slightest chance of consolidation and development.

To this end:

• select hybrids and varieties resistant to fungal diseases;
• observe agricultural techniques for growing beets, including weeding, thinning thickened seedlings and maintaining the cleanliness of the soil under plantings;
• carry out planned fertilizing of the garden culture;
• crops are regularly examined to detect diseases at an early stage;
• harvest root crops in a timely manner;
• they carefully examine the roots that are going to winter storage.

It is important to remember that diseases of the leaves of beets and their roots, as well as pests, most often affect weakened plants that are deficient in nutrients, moisture, light and oxygen.

How to grow large healthy beets - video

glav-dacha.ru

storage diseases: gray, white, black, bacterial rot, phomosis, alternaria - root crops: carrots, beets, radishes, radishes, turnips, parsley, celery

Description

For carrots, beets and other root crops during storage, rot caused by fungi and bacteria, as well as fungal diseases (phomosis, alternaria), are dangerous.

Gray rot. Appears on root crops in the form of a thick grayish bloom, later acquiring a brownish color with small black dots. Gray rot is especially dangerous when storing root crops next to cabbage.

White rot. A loose, white, cotton-like bloom appears on the surface of the roots, on which black hard nodules subsequently form. The affected tissue of root crops softens and turns into a weeping, shapeless mass. Weakened, withered and damaged roots are more often affected.

Bacterial rot. The root tip turns black and dies off. Gradually, the disease spreads throughout the root crop.

Fomoz. Root crops develop slightly depressed brown spots with small black dots. On the cut, the affected tissue is brownish-brown, loose, often with voids, inside of which a white bloom forms. On beets, the disease develops in the form of dry rot. The affected tissue is black, hard, sometimes with voids.

Alternaria (black rot). It affects carrots. Dry, dark, slightly depressed spots appear in various places of the roots. With high humidity, a grayish-greenish bloom forms on them. On the cut, the diseased tissue of a coal-black color.

Control measures

Pick up pesticides (carrots - rot)

It is necessary to harvest carrots and other root crops in a timely manner, since if damaged by frost, they lose their resistance to disease. The best time for cleaning - when the air temperature drops from 10 ° C to 0 ° in dry weather. After harvesting, the leaves are immediately cut off, leaving petioles about 1 cm long in the carrots. In the beets, they are cut off at the head level, without damaging the root crop. Then the vegetables are sorted, selecting for storage healthy, without mechanical damage. The most stable varieties of carrots during storage are Incomparable, Moscow winter, Chantenet 2461, Nantes 4, Guéranda, Vitaminnaya, Valeria; beets - Siberian flat, Podzimnyaya A-74, Bordeaux; radishes - Winter round black, Winter round white; turnips - Petrovskaya; radish - Dungan, Chinese; celery - Snow Globe, Prague.

You need to store root vegetables (carrots, turnips, radishes, radishes, parsley, celery) at a temperature of 0-1 ° C and a relative humidity of 90-95% in boxes, plastic bags, pouring layers of root crops with a mixture of slaked lime and sand (per 100 kg of root crops 50 kg of sand and 1 kg of hydrated lime). Beets and radishes can be stored in bins, like potatoes, with a floor height of no more than 1 m.

Good results are obtained when root crops are covered with a layer of clay, which, after drying, forms a cover that protects them from wilting and infection with diseases.

Radishes are best stored in plastic bags or boxes lined with foil; moreover, the fruits obtained from late sowing.

When sick root crops are found, they are removed, and healthy ones are dusted with chalk (150-200 g per 10 kg).

For any gardener, the sowing season begins in February-March, when vegetable seeds are sown for seedlings. It is then that the future harvest of such beloved peppers and eggplants, cabbage and tomatoes, cucumbers is formed. It seems that with many years of experience and quality seeds, all possible and impossible risks can be eliminated. Nevertheless, both in the presence of a successful sowing, and with good emerging seedlings, it is impossible to lose vigilance, since the seedlings can be struck by a black leg.

The very name of the disease can tell us that it is manifested by blackening and subsequent decay of the root collar: first, the hypocotal knee darkens, then the stem tissue softens in the area of \u200b\u200bthe root collar, the stem turns black, rots, in this place it becomes thin. Sometimes on seedlings yellowing of the lower leaves is noticeable. The plant breaks and soon dies.

Usually, when pulled out of the soil, the affected specimens easily break off at the root collar. If the disease develops slowly, then it lags behind in growth, its leaves become smaller, and there may be no stem decay.

Sometimes this disease is called root-eater, because the root also suffers. More often this name is used to define the black leg of sugar beet.

How not to miss the moment when the defeat of culture occurs? Basically, the disease affects the seedling from the very moment of seed germination until the formation of 2-3 true leaves. It is in the wrong agricultural technology that you need to look for the reasons for the formation of a black leg:

• contaminated soil;
• thickened sowing;
• excessive watering;
• lack of fresh air;
• excess moisture and heat;
• sudden changes in temperature.

Cultures drop out of the period of development by foci. The disease is most intensely detected with very dense crops, especially if the temperature and humidity are elevated. And the most dangerous thing is that the infection remains in the soil.

Disease-prone crops

Blackleg most often manifests itself in greenhouses in the process of forcing seedlings of cabbage, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, radishes, lettuce. Potatoes, sugar beets and carrots suffer from this disease. But flowers can also be amazed by this ailment, especially those that are planted in the ground with the help of seedlings, for example, petunia.

Causative agents of the disease

The causative agents of the black leg have the ability to penetrate into the most distant parts of the plant through the vessels, while outstripping the manifestation of the external symptoms of the disease.

The following pathogens are known to modern science:

• Phoma betae;
• Aphanomyces cochlioides;
• Pythium ultimum;
• Rhizoctonia solani;
• Pectobacterium;
• Fusarium.

In most cases, it is difficult to identify the pathogen based on symptoms alone, unless the infection is caused by Aphanomyces. Under their influence, the upper part of the hypocotyl becomes much smaller and blacker, while the base of the cotyledon is also affected by the disease.

Aphanomyces, Pythium and Rhizoctonia were not seen in the aerial portions of the beets, thus allowing them to thrive in the soil.

When summer temperatures are very high and there is little rainfall, the infection is latent, and the plants do not show any external signs of damage. Therefore, in the field, the tuberous form of the potato disease usually reveals itself in the second half of the growing season, it is called wet rot, and its causative agent is all species of the genus Pectobacterium.

Fusarium has also been identified, but as a secondary infection.

Fungicides and other biological treatment chemicals

What to do if black leg diseases still could not be avoided? Of course, you need to go to the store to buy the necessary drugs, such as:

• Fentiuram (65% wetting powder). They need to dress the seeds before sowing.
• "TMTD" (80% wetting powder). Use also for seed treatment, but additional moisture of seeds is required before use.
• "Colloidal sulfur". After disinfection of the soil, sulfur is used to spray it.
• Fitosporin. It can be in the form of powder, paste, or liquid. It is necessary to use the solution after removing all affected seedlings, spraying the remaining plantings and watering their root system.
• "Baktofit". This fungicide can also be used when watering soil that has been freed from infested plants.
• Fundazol is very effective for black leg disease. But it must be used very carefully, since the toxic substances that make up the composition can harm both plants and people.
• Fitolavin-300, Plaza. These biologicals can also be used to treat seeds and soil.

Traditional methods of treating the disease

There are also folk remedies to combat this disease. You can overcome the black leg using the following methods:

1. Dusting the soil with wood soot or ash. Moreover, the spray layer should be only a few millimeters. It is believed that on such cultivated soil, a black leg will not appear, and the seedlings grow excellently.
2. Watering the seedlings with a solution of ordinary baking soda. You only need to use 1 teaspoon of baking soda in 1 glass of cold water. This volume is quite enough to process 1 sq. meter of soil. Watering is done once a week.
3. Soaking seeds in Epin's solution. Dissolve one ampoule in 1 liter of water and soak the seeds in it overnight. Even if they were infected, the disease must subside.
4. Sprinkle eggshells on infected areas. It must be dried, thoroughly grinded in a mortar, and the resulting powder must be used to process contaminated soil.

Disease prevention

Blackleg is more difficult to cure than to prevent. Therefore, constant prophylaxis of the disease is necessary.

• It is necessary to replace the soil in the greenhouse annually, maintaining the frequency of planting seedlings at an optimal level. Provide an optimum temperature and humidity inside, constantly ventilating the greenhouse.
• Spill the mixture for planting with boiling water mixed with a manganese solution.
• After sowing the seeds, cover the box with foil or glass, keeping the room at a constant temperature of 18-20 ° C.
• After emergence, thin them out where they grow too densely. Under no circumstances should the soil be excessively wet and sprinkle with wood ash.
• It is also necessary to use the hilling method: after the first shoots appear, stop watering for 2-3 days, and after the soil dries out, gently huddle the tender shoots and only then water, and so that the stalks remain dry.

It is important to remember that you need to purchase only high-quality seeds of modern varieties from reliable manufacturing companies, giving preference to seeds of new varieties or those that are immune to black leg disease.

Should be observed and optimal time sowing the seeds indicated on the package, and also provide the plant with sufficient lighting so that there is no slowdown in the processes of photosynthesis, reduction in moisture evaporation, and a decrease in immunity in seedlings.

What will happen if you do not fight infection: possible consequences

The black leg can be overcome not only with the help of competent preventive measures that exclude its appearance, but also through various means of dealing with it. However, one should not think that this disease is not worth paying much attention to. The black leg is quite dangerous, and if you miss the moment of mass seedling disease, then it will be impossible to return the lost days, and all that remains is to throw them away.

Eating contaminated crops can cause human disease, such as fusariotoxicosis. The development of this disease is facilitated by the mitotoxins of the fungus of the genus Fusarium when they enter the human body.

Due to the fact that the fungus infects all plants planted in contaminated land, many crops that a person eats or that go to feed animals are at risk of fusarium disease. Therefore, it is necessary to be vigilant and attentive in the fight against this disease so that it does not negatively affect the health of consumers of contaminated crops.

The general name " blackleg"Refers to a group of diseases that have some similarity in symptoms. In fact, not one pest is acting here, but two groups of phytopathogenic organisms - the simplest fungi and bacteria. An erroneous diagnosis leads to incorrect control measures and the loss of even those plants that could well have been saved.

1. Fungal infection

The surface layers of the soil are inhabited by many species of lower mold fungi, which in normal conditions are saprophytic, i.e. feed on organic residues. These are representatives of the genus Phytium, Olpidium, Phoma, Rhizoctonia, Aphanomyces and others. In the soil of greenhouses and year-round greenhouses, saprophytic fungi multiply strongly, they no longer have enough familiar food, so they attack all organic matter that they are able to reach. And most often the roots of seedlings and young seedlings are their prey.

[!] Since there are many types of fungi and each of them is a polyphage (polyphagia - excessive food consumption), the seedlings of any plants, without exception, may be affected.

In case saprophytic attack mold fungi, the course of the disease will be sluggish, the lesion among the planted seedlings will be small. The stem of the plant does not necessarily turn black, it can be gray, dark green, whitish, etc. Freshly cut seedlings, which have unhealed damage to small roots, are especially often affected. Saprophyte begins to eat first dead and wounded roots, then healthy ones, and only then - the lower part of the stem. When such plants are pulled out of the soil, it is found that they have practically no roots. This type of disease has received another name - "Root-eater".

Picking seedlings into separate pots with fresh soil usually solves the problem completely. Saprophytic fungi do not attack older plants and sturdy cuttings. The introduction of wood ash and the improvement of the indoor climate will help to stop the growth of the hearth.

Fusarium can also exist as a saprophyte, but at the first opportunity it attacks a living plant. The roots are of little interest to him, the main purpose of the fungus is the juicy tissues at the top. Through the hypocotal knee, the fungi enter the plant's body and, at the point of penetration, the stem turns black and curls, because the fungus at the moment of attack releases a powerful dose of toxin.

The whole process occurs very quickly - from several hours to several days, and the lesion expands explosively, in all directions. Young plants fall as if cut down, while the leaves do not wither - they simply do not have time. For such a rapid onslaught and 100% defeat, Fusarium is called a "mower".

[!] If all the seedlings are affected at once, it means that the harmful spores were on the seed coat. It is necessary to treat the remaining seed material with fungicides and warm up for 30 minutes at 50 ° C.

The seeds can then be sown in disinfected soil.
For an accurate diagnosis of fusarium, the affected plant should be pulled out of the soil. It will not stretch out easily because the roots are intact. The constriction in the area of \u200b\u200bthe root collar will not break, on the contrary, it is more rigid than the rest of the tissue. In the stem, at the cut site, a dark ring or several is visible - this is the Fusarium mycelium, which filled the vessels of the plant.

There are many types of Fusarium. Some of them are able to enter into symbiosis with the roots of agricultural cereals, forming mycorrhiza. This increases the vitality of wheat and rye, so there is still some benefit from Fusarium. But Fusarium, "useful" for wheat, can be fatal, for example, for pelargonium or asters.

[!] It is by no means recommended to take soil from agricultural land for greenhouses and home flowers! It contains a large number of fungal spores, as well as industrial herbicides.

Fusarium also affects adult plants. In this case, the disease flows secretly, the symptoms are unclear - the flower slows down development and looks depressed. The stems die off very slowly, one at a time. If you cut off a healthy-looking stem, dark dots - hyphae - will be found on the cut. Pelargonium, indoor roses, begonias and saintpaulias are most commonly affected by fusarium wilting.

Conifers (yew, cypress, thuja) and monocotyledonous (palm) plants can be damaged by the fungus Alternarium... It is very similar to Fusarium in terms of developmental features and control measures (see below) with both pathogens are practically the same.

2. Bacterial rot

Bacteria with nice name Ervinias cause an unpleasant disease in plants - bacterial rot. Erwinia ( Erwinia) live in the upper layers of the soil, rich in oxygen and organic matter. Basically, they, like mold fungi, feed on plant debris.

Unlike fungi, bacteria take some time to develop a large enough colony. Usually, infection occurs at the beginning of the growing season, and the disease is found on an adult plant. The first sign that not everything is all right with the flower may be the appearance of the lower leaves - they lag behind in growth, acquire a yellowish color. The sheet rolls up like a boat and becomes hard to the touch.

[!] All indoor flowers - begonias, and the like, with starchy tubers, are at risk and can become victims of bacteria.

Bacterial rot is a contagious disease. It is transmitted by touching neighboring bushes or while caring for plants. Thickened plantings are especially affected.

Soft rot affects the lower part of the stem, but can develop on any organs - leaves, buds - if there is no air circulation and sunlight. Bulbous plants and those with a succulent thick stem are susceptible to soft rot.

The base of the stem acquires an uncharacteristic shade - brown, dark green or black, softens and the plant lays down. When pulled out of the soil, the stem easily breaks off at the bottom and liquid flows out of it (not necessarily black, it can be light or dark green). The internal tissues are softened or completely absent - instead of them, mucus is found. Slime indicates the bacterial nature of the disease.

Root decay and lodging of plants can also be caused by fermentative bacteria - those that live in not rotted manure. In this case, the increased temperature of the soil acts destructively - the roots simply "burn" and the bacteria attack the weakened plants. In this case, they speak of a "bacterial burn".

[!] For fertilization, use only "cold" humus, aged for 2-4 years. The same goes for compost.

General prevention of black leg

The complex of preventive measures is aimed at both types of phytopathogens:

• disinfection of containers and substrate before sowing;
• seed dressing;
• elimination of excessive acidity by adding ash;
• thinning of seedlings;
• moderate watering with water at room temperature;
• the presence of drainage;
• timely airing;
• loosening the soil, preventing "acidification";
• compliance with the norms of fertilization, especially nitrogen;
• regular, every 2-3 years, replacement of the topsoil in greenhouses, greenhouses and greenhouses.

Blackleg affects mainly pale, elongated seedlings and those cuttings that are planted in cold soil. Therefore, you should not knock down the natural biorhythms of plants and do sowing and planting too early (in early February, for example). If there is such a need, then you should take care of heating the soil and supplementary illumination with ultraviolet and solar lamps ("warm light").

In early spring, the soil brought into the room is not immediately used for planting. At first, it is kept from 3 days to a week in order for the beneficial flora to come to life. In this case, the surface is sprayed with warm water. When the first shoots of self-seeding grasses appear, the soil is heated for about an hour at 70 ° C. The finished substrate can be placed in pots and containers.

As fortifying, drugs Epin, Krepysh, Immunocytofit, Previkur and analogues are useful.

Blackleg control measures

If the prevention of blackleg is general, then the control measures for fungal and bacterial lesions are different.

In the table, a plus indicates the effectiveness of measures, a minus means that the agent is useless.

[!] It should be borne in mind that sulfur and vitriol are poisonous to young plants, and potassium permanganate can cause burns.

It is useful to sprinkle the surface of the soil with clean river sand mixed with dolomite flour and ash. Sand will absorb excess moisture, ash will reduce acidity, and dolomite flour is needed to strengthen the immunity of seedlings.

A strong (20 grams per 1 liter) infusion of onion peels or marigolds will help in the initial stage, significantly strengthening the seedlings. Traditional methods have no harmful side effects.

Biological control measures for fusarium - Trichodermin and similar drugs... They contain spores of fungi - natural enemies of phytophthora. Trichodermin can be used both for prophylaxis and in order to eliminate the focus of infection.

Vegetable experts say that the tops can be an indicator of the health of the entire plant. Yellowing, staining, and other abnormalities may indicate a lack of nutrients. But often such symptoms also cause beet diseases. Fungal lesions are insidious in that sometimes the harvested crop seems quite normal, but during winter storage it completely disappears.

Another topic that is worth familiarizing with those who decided to start growing this root crop is beet pests and measures to combat them.

Beet diseases are quite numerous, but it is quite possible to protect the root crop from them. In general, this plant is unpretentious, and even novice gardeners can have full bins at the end of the season.

Fomoz: insidious rot

The disease instantly affects the appearance of the tops: the leaf plates are covered with yellowish or brown rounded spots, sometimes in the form of a cobweb mesh. The disease also bears two other names - heart rot and zonal spotting. Beet phoma progresses very quickly, starting its movement up the stem, starting with those leaves that are located near the ground. If the phomosis begins to multiply on a root crop growing for the second year, it eats the peduncle. And the underground fruit left for winter storage rots at a catastrophic rate.

When the leaves of beets turn yellow, you need to urgently take measures so as not to be left without a crop after all the work invested in it.

Wet weather and dewy mornings starting in mid-July, when the temperature drops significantly at night, help the rapid development of heart rot. Fungal spores are helped by wind and jets of rain spreading around the area. In the frosty season, the pathogens of phomoses sit out in fallen leaves, not removed from the garden, on beet seeds and on those root crops where the colonies managed to breed.

Experienced vegetable growers have long understood that the lack of boron in the ground creates favorable conditions for the development of rot. Regular fertilization of the soil with this microelement (for example, the introduction of borax) helps to fight the fungus, and serves as a kind of preventive measure.

Ways to neutralize and prevent phomosis:

1. Treatment of seeds and root crops with Fundazol has a protective effect.
2. When the leaves and root crops have already formed completely, shortly before harvesting the plant, the soil is fertilized with potassium-containing preparations.
3. Another simple preventive measure is to alternate plants in the garden, guided by the rules of crop rotation.
4. Growing beets should be weeded out, not allowing them to overgrow with weeds. Seedlings need to be thinned out in a timely manner.
5. After harvesting, all waste is removed from the ground and incinerated.

If suddenly the disease has already been noticed in the country or in the field, new plantings simply need to be sprayed with systemic fungicides (the same Fundazol or any other). The beet crop laid in the basement or in the warehouse is regularly examined, throwing out specimens spoiled and softened by the disease. After each sorting, the vegetable container is disinfected and thoroughly dried.

Beet cercosporosis: a fungus that causes leaves to blush

Fungal pathogens cause the leaves to acquire a reddish tint. When the process has passed the initial stage, the spots will lighten in the center, and the edges will turn purple-burgundy. If you turn over the leaf where the mycelium has settled, a grayish bloom will be visible there.

Cercosporosis begins its work with adult leaves on a rosette. Fungal colonies grow, and with them the number of spots, and now the leaves begin to dry out.

When this disease affects the beets, it stops growing normally, because it has to constantly grow new leaves to replace the dying ones. As a result, the underground part of the plant remains underdeveloped.

If you do not start to fight the disease in time, the yield will be half what is expected under normal conditions. The causative agent of cercosporosis especially prefers sugar beet and its fodder counterpart. Mushroom spores are most active in the interval between heat and cold, when the temperature is kept at +16 ° C. The plant litter, which they were too lazy to remove from the garden, as well as the stems and root zone of perennial weeds, become the winter spores.

To prevent the development of the disease, you need:

• dressing seeds before sowing;
• give preference to disease-resistant varieties;
• spray the tops with a frequency of about once a week with means containing copper;
• thin out seedlings when they release 2-3 leaves;
• clean the beds from weeds, remove dead leaves;
• do not plant beets and related plants on the same ridge for several years in a row.

Beet ramularia

This disease also affects the leaves and spots appear on them. However, they are lighter than with cercospora. At first, these are small lesions of a brown-green hue, no more than 1.5 cm. Moreover, inside these mini-spots, leaf cells dry out and crumble. The purple-brown border of these spots is indistinct.

Ramulariosis begins to become active in the second half of summer. The scheme of defeat is standard for fungi: from the ground they get to the lower leaves, arrange their colonies there. The leaves die, and the fungus creeps higher and higher, capturing young tops and petioles.

What to do if beet leaves turn red and spots signaling ramulariasis appear on their plates? Since the pathogen can overwinter even on roots and seeds, ramulariasis is observed on seedlings, as well as on peduncles. The fungus develops in a humid environment, at low positive temperatures, causing large losses in the yield of fodder beets, as well as other types of cultivated plants. The fight against beet disease includes both preventive measures and treatment with fungicidal preparations of systemic action, as in the case of cercosporosis.

Peronosporosis of beets: signs and methods of control

Downy mildew is the second name for this disease. The pathogen begins to actively develop when the weather is cool and humid. At the same time, the beet leaves turn yellow, then they cluster, and, finally, die off. What to do if the first signs of peronosporosis were noticed on the tops?

The tops are dying for a reason. It is destroyed by the fungus, which is especially clearly visible on the back of the leaf plate. There are spores that look like a grayish or purple bloom. Outside, the tops are covered with brown drying or decaying spots.

So that root crops are not afraid of downy mildew, vegetable growers adhere to several rules:

• use pickled seeds for planting;
• get rid of the tops - both beetroot and everything else;
• treat plants and soil with fungicides.

Beet leaves respond well to treatment with Bordeaux liquid, as a measure to combat the disease.

Fusarium - the scourge of root crops and tops

The disease enters the root crop from the soil, and at the beginning of the development of the disease, it turns yellow and takes out the foliage along with the cuttings. Then the disease manifests itself on the root crop itself. This is a fungal disease and can no doubt be diagnosed on the affected root crop by the mycelium on the cut.

Plants that lack moisture, as well as those that were damaged by loosening and removing weeds, are especially strongly affected.

Fusarium must be fought with the following methods:

• feed with boron-containing fertilizers;
• lime acidic soils;
• to withstand the requirements of crop rotation;
• deep loosening of row spacings;
• water abundantly.

Diseased plants must be destroyed.

Measures for the prevention of beet diseases

Many beet diseases have only minor external manifestations. The gardener may not attach importance to the slight yellowing or lethargy of the tops. And the true scale of the damage will be revealed after harvesting - the roots will be irreversibly spoiled and the affected fruits cannot be used for food.

Therefore, preventive measures are important to prevent the development of beet diseases.

For prevention:

• varieties and hybrids with increased disease resistance are planted;
• fulfill agrotechnical requirements for standing density, loosening, watering and removing weeds;
• make the necessary subcortexes;
• examine and identify ailments at the initial stage;
• carry out cleaning at the correct agro-dates;
• carefully monitor the quality of root crops going for winter storage.

Those plants that have been weakened for some reason are especially susceptible to diseases. Weakening can be caused by:

• lack of illumination;
• lack of moisture;
• waterlogging;
• poor soil and lack of feeding;
• thickening of plants.

It should be noted that the diseases of sugar beet are the same as in the canteen, therefore, it is unacceptable that they coexist in the crop rotation.

Pests

Beet pests are mainly insects, although mice with mole rats do not disdain it either.

The main damage is caused by beet weevils and fleas. Also, all summer long beet tops are attacked by:

• caterpillar scoops;
• beet fly (larva);
• beet miner moth;
• beet shieldfoot.

And root crops are affected by root aphids and larvae of weevils.

Beet fly

A common beet pest. If the tops begin to dry out, and translucent larvae are found on the underside of the leaf, this is it.

The body of the beet fly is 6-8 mm and is colored gray. Wherever beets are grown in large quantities, beet fly can also be found. It affects crops very strongly, especially in waterlogged areas.

One summer can change from two to four generations. The eggs are placed by the females on the underside of the leaves. The volume of one masonry is 40-100 pieces.

The larvae infect leaves and their veins, make holes and cavities in them. Then there are swellings on the leaves signaling the place of their residence. Affected leaves gradually wither and die. If young plants with less than 3 pairs of true leaves were affected, they inevitably die. Surviving plants will produce small, poor quality roots.

Consider how to deal with it. You can cope with a beet fly by:

• weed removal;
• removing diseased leaves;
• autumn digging of the earth.

Beet root aphid

This type of aphid can be very harmful to beet beds. The length of its yellow-white body is 2.3-2.5 mm. It is found wherever this root crop is grown. Attacks beets throughout the entire growth period before harvesting. At the same time, about a dozen generations of aphids have time to change.

Beet root aphids attack the small feeding roots of the beet, which leads to malnutrition. Plants that have been attacked grow more slowly, and then completely wither. In addition, inflated crops are susceptible to various diseases... Beet root aphids can completely infect the entire beet mass.

You can get rid of aphids:

• early detection of foci;
• spatial isolation of new crops from loaded crops;
• removal of haze weeds (shiritsa);
• implementation of recommendations on crop rotation;
• treatment of affected plantings with insecticidal preparations.

Beetles

The smooth dead eater is the main pest of the order of beetles or beetles that spoil beet crops.

It is especially dangerous for newly emerged plants. Its body is black with red stripes and is 9 to 12 mm long. This pest hibernates on wild plants and passes from them to a root crop. Eggs are laid by females in an amount of about 100 pieces in the upper layers of the soil. After a week and a half, black larvae 16 mm in size hatch from the eggs. Whether these pests have gnawed the beets can be seen from the holes in the leaves. Their diet includes foliage for one and a half to two weeks, and then they turn into a pupa, and then become new beetles.

They fight it, first of all, by loosening between rows and removing weeds.

Nematode

The beet nematode belongs to the roundworms and is the main factor contaminating the soil after sowing beets. Sometimes their presence passes without a trace, and the deterioration of the state of the crops is attributed to other factors. If the worm has developed strongly on the crops, then their oppression and developmental lag occurs. This leads to a decrease in yield by 2-3 times. Also, sugar content and other quality indicators are reduced.

The beet cyst nematode causes a disease called heteroderosis. It is especially dangerous during dry periods. The larvae destroy plants by introducing enzymes to digest food. Infected plantings of beets are prone to attack by various fungi and bacteria. The damage from a nematode depends on its concentration in the ground. Plant protection products are required if there are more than 200 nematodes per 100 cubic centimeters of soil.