Viburnum pests, cause her a lot of trouble, eating leaves and flowers and significantly affecting the quantity and quality of the crop. Viburnum has a lot of pests.
The greatest harm to viburnum can be inflicted: viburnum leaf beetle black viburnum aphid, as well as viburnum leafworm and honeysuckle prickly sawfly, viburnum and honeysuckle gall midge, green lobed moth
Leaf beetles almost completely destroy plantings, and the fight against them is difficult. I myself had to experience this, until I found an effective and I must say an effective method of dealing with harmful beetles.
In the early spring, dirty gray larvae with a black head appear. They settle on the leaf from its lower side, holding tightly to it, so it is impossible to shake off like other insects.
Leaf beetle larvae eat a lot and within a few days are able to destroy many branches, leaving only veins from the leaves. Then the larvae go into the soil and beetles of yellow-brown color 6 mm long appear. They settle on the upper side of the leaves and continue to eat them vigorously.
By September, such a bush is almost entirely bare. He leaves before winter weakened and may die from frost.
Females lay their eggs in a chain, gnawing the bark to a depth of two millimeters, grabbing a little wood, and lay 15 to 25 small eggs of light yellow color in the nest.
After the eggs are laid viburnum pests nests are immediately sealed with secretions, masking the color of the bark. But the masonry is clearly visible due to the convex shape of the "roofs".
Some females make nests in the stalks of the largest racemes, which sharply decreases the yield. At the end of summer, the beetles go to winter under a viburnum bush (some of them harm in September).
When beetles appeared en masse, in June-July, I shook them off the leaves in the early morning (at this time they are the least active), onto plastic wrap, and then swept them into a bucket of water and destroyed. Carried out this operation before laying eggs.
In early spring, when the branches were still bare, she cut off the tops of the shoots where the clutches of eggs were visible. She burned the trimmings immediately. If you carefully remove all damaged parts of the plant, then all the clutches can be destroyed, and the next year there will be no new beetles.
The next year, the manipulation was repeated and thus all the beetles - viburnum pests - were destroyed. You don't have to be late with pruning. This should be done before the leaves bloom. This way of fighting is completely harmless to plants. It is simple, convenient, and every gardener can use it.
The traditional measures to combat the viburnum leaf beetle include spraying the viburnum bush before it blooms with 10% karbofos (100 g of substance per bucket of water). During the growing season, it is recommended to treat the plant with hot pepper infusion (1 kg of pods cut in half or 0.5 kg of dried chopped pods per bucket of water) or infusion of tomato tops (4 kg of green or 1 kg of dried tops per bucket of water or infusion of pharmacy chamomile (3 kg of green or 1 kg of dried pharmacy chamomile in a bucket of water).
Black viburnum aphid
Adults viburnum pests this variety is usually dark brown to crimson brown in color. His eggs spend the winter near the buds on the bark. The larvae, born in spring, settle on the leaves and successfully suck the juices from them.
Viburnum leaves, damaged by black aphids, curl, the top shoots are deformed. In June, pests with wings are born and populate with new plants. In late summer - early autumn, females of black aphids lay eggs that will hibernate.
The black viburnum aphid can migrate, but lives only on the viburnum. It damages young bushes with particular cruelty. During the growing season, aphids develop several generations of viburnum.
Control measures
In order to combat the black viburnum aphid, it is recommended to cut and destroy the root growth, in which viburnum pests lay eggs for wintering. To combat black aphids, beneficial insects are widely used that feed on aphids - hoverflies, larvae of goldsmiths, ladybirds.
Also, before buds bloom, shoots should be treated with 60% nitrophene paste (250g of substance per bucket of water).
A good result is obtained by treating viburnum shoots with preparations made from plants: infusion of potato tops (1.2 kg of green 0.7 kg of dried tops per bucket of water), infusion of pepper (1 kg of capsicum, cut in half or 500 g of dry crushed pods in a bucket of water, infusion celandine (3-4kg of fresh grass or 1kg of dried grass per bucket of water), finally with a solution of laundry soap (250g per bucket of water).
Viburnum leaf roll
Viburnum roll usually damages viburnum, as well as mountain pine. This pest of viburnum is a dark gray-blue or greenish-olive caterpillar, yellowish on the sides, all covered with light hairs with a light brown head. Caterpillars ( viburnum pests), which were born in spring, eat the buds when leaves appear, eat and damage them, having previously entangled them with cobwebs and knocked into a ball. The leafworm pupates by the middle of summer in the places where it feeds. With its mass reproduction, the viburnum leafworm is able to destroy a large number of leaves, and this leads to a strong decrease in yield.
Control measures
The fight against the viburnum leafworm is reduced to the collection and burning of caterpillar nests. Before buds bloom, viburnum should be sprayed with 60% nitrophene paste at the rate of 250 g of substance per bucket of water, as well as from the beginning of budding until the buds of the plant appear, it is necessary to process 10% karbofos.
Honeysuckle prickly sawfly
The sawfly damages the decorative and edible honeysuckle and viburnum. The larva of the pest has an olive-colored body and two transverse rows of white thorns, with a dark red back or mesh pattern, light-gray sides and a yellow head. The larvae hibernate in the upper layer of the earth. Pupation occurs in the spring. Adult pests appear during leaf opening, on which females lay eggs. The hatched larvae eat the leaves. They can overeat until they are completely naked.
Control measures
To combat the sawfly, autumn digging of the earth is effective. Then you need to spray the bushes before flowering and after it with 10% karbofos (100 g per bucket of water), as well as treat the plant with wormwood broth (750 g of dried herb per bucket of water) or garlic, tobacco, onion (200 g of tobacco waste or dust, 200 g of ground onion or garlic and 200g of onion peel in a bucket of water).
Viburnum and honeysuckle gall midge
These viburnum pests infect plant flowers. The larvae of the viburnum gall midge are white, and the honeysuckle - red. They spend winter in the upper soil layer, wrapped in spider cocoons. Adult gall midges show themselves when the buds are exposed. Females of gall midges love to lay eggs inside the bud, and the larvae also develop here. Thanks to this, the buds become ugly, significantly increase in size, swell, turn red, its corolla thickens, and the pistil and stamens are far behind in development, the flowers cannot open. Viburnum pests give only one generation.
Control measures
To combat gall midges, it is necessary to loosen the soil in early spring and late autumn, and before and after the flowering of viburnum, 10% karbofos should be sprayed at the rate of 100 g of substance per bucket of water.
Green lobed moth
The greenish lobed moth can damage the viburnum, buckthorn, lilac and other shrubs. This pest is a yellow-green caterpillar with two pairs of abdominal legs and a red-brown line along the back of the same color with dots and spots. It does harm only to flowers by gnawing flower ovaries.
Unfortunately, viburnum bushes are often attacked by leaf-eating insects, which make them look unattractive for most of the season. For this reason, many gardeners refuse to grow them. However, pests are not difficult to get rid of. It is necessary to treat the bushes with chemicals in early spring, and during flowering and ripening of fruits - with vegetable infusions and decoctions.
Kalinovy leaf beetle on-carries the greatest harm to the cous-tu. In some years, it damages the leaves so badly that only the veins remain of them. In May - June, the black larva eats up the plant tissue, and then moves on to flowers. An adult beetle lays eggs under the bark, from which voracious larvae reappear. Means of struggle. In order to stop the active reproduction of leaf-gnawing caterpillars, to preserve the bush and give it the opportunity to form a crop, annually, before the buds bloom, Kalina requires an eradicating treatment with chemicals. For this, the bushes are sprayed with 0.3% carbo-phos, 0.15% rogor or 0.1% fufanon. During the period of mass development of the pest, treatment with Eleksar or Aktara (0.08% concentration) or two-fold, with an interval of 7-10 days, spraying with Intavir or FAS preparations (1 tablet per 10 liters of water) helps. You can also fight leafy food by pruning. In autumn, inspect the tops of all branches and cut off the eggs. In early spring, once again carefully inspect the tops and cut off those where there is egg-laying. As soon as the first leaves begin to appear, all the larvae will be on them. Pinch off these leaves and destroy. With an interval of 1-2 days, repeat the operation twice more.
Kalinovaya aphid in a damp summer, it also spoils the bushes of kalina. Damaged upper young leaves curl into a ball. Aphids suck sap from young tissue and inhibit the growth of the bush. Means of struggle. Early spring treatments with 0.2% actellik, 0.15% rogor or confidor are effective, the drug FAS helps (1 tablet per 10 l of water). Before blooming, 0.08% actara or 0.1% fufanon is used.
Kalinovaya leaf roll hurts in early summer - during flowering and ripening of fruits. During this period, you can see leaves on the viburnum, twisted into a neat tube. This is due to the caterpillar, which feeds on the vegetable juice of the bush. Means of struggle. In the period of mass appearance of the pest, 0.05% decis or inta-vir (1 tablet per 10 liters of water) is used. For the effectiveness of the effect, the treatment is repeated after 2 weeks.
Powdery mildew and spots on the leaves of viburnum are quite rare. These fungal diseases affect bushes only in very cool and humid summers, when favorable conditions are created for the spread of spores. Remedies. Early spring spraying with topaz, vectra or strobe (0.2% concentration), copper - soap liquid (100 g of copper sulfate and 40 g of soap per 10 liters of water). Also from powdery mildew use wood ash, cleaned of coal particles. The bushes are pollinated or sprayed with infusion. To prepare the infusion, 3 kg of ash is poured into 10 liters of hot water. Insist for 2 days, processing is carried out 2 times a month.
Viral diseases can cause yellowing and patchy leaves. In this case, the viburnum cannot be saved, the bushes must be completely uprooted and destroyed.
Pesticide-free garden
In the midst of ripening fruits, it is necessary to protect the viburnum with herbal decoctions and infusions. Herbs can be harvested for future use, it is better to do it during flowering, on sunny days. Su-shat them not in the sun, but in a shady, well-ventilated place. Before spraying the bushes, the prepared nastoi or decoctions are filtered, for better adhesion, adjusted laundry soap (40 g per 10 l of water) is added. Plants are processed in the evening hours. Bitter red pepper helps to get rid of aphids and leaf-gnawing caterpillars. The broth is prepared from 100 g of red fruits, previously crushed, and 1 liter of water. After 1 hour of boiling, they are allowed to melt for 2 days. Before use, 2 glasses of broth are diluted in 10 liters of water. Garlic solution scares off aphids and viburnum leaf beetle. It is prepared using 300 g of minced garlic per 10 liters of water, and the bushes are immediately sprayed. Citrus peels (orange, lemon, tangerine) will help get rid of aphids and viburnum leaf beetle. Nastoy is prepared from 1 kg of crusts. In a softened form, they are passed through a meat grinder and filled with 10 liters of warm water. Insist 3 days in a dark place. Plants are sprayed several times after 10 days. It is even better to alternate citrus spraying with treatment with preparations of pepper and garlic. Marigolds help to get rid of aphids. The infusion is prepared from 200 g of dried flowers and 10 liters of water, aged for 2 days. Spraying is carried out once a week until the complete disappearance of the pest. Calendula medicinal (marigold) protects against many leaf-gnawing pests. Collect 1 kg of fresh flowers or take 600 g dry, pour 10 liters of water and leave for 1-2 days. Bittersweet nightshade helps fight the viburnum leaf beetle and leafy twigs. To prepare the broth, take 5 kg of green mass and pour 10 liters of water for 3 hours, then boil for 2-3 hours over low heat. The broth is not subject to long-term storage. Before sprinkling, it is diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio. Wormwood is used against aphids, viburnum leaf beetle. A decoction is prepared from 1 kg of dried green mass and 5 liters of water. The mixture is boiled for 20 minutes, cooled, filtered and diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio. The effectiveness of this broth increases if you add liquid chicken droppings (1:10) to it and let it stand for 2 days. Op-yaw is carried out three times after 7 days. Tobacco (tobacco dust or makhorka) saves from aphids, leafworm caterpillars. The infusion is prepared from 400 g of dry crushed tobacco leaves, or 200 g of tobacco (tobacco dust), which are poured into 5 liters of water and kept for 2-3 days. After filtration, add water to 10 liters. For the broth, 400 g of dry tobacco and 10 liters of water are needed. Insist 1 day, then boil for 2 hours on low heat. Tomato shoots left after pinching can be used against aphids. To prepare us, take 500 g of crushed green mass and write down 3 liters of water. After 6 hours of infusion, filter and add up to 10 liters of water. The broth is prepared from 4 kg of raw tops and 5 liters of water. After hours of infusion, boil for 40 minutes and add water to 10 liters. Processing is carried out every 10 days. Potato tops collected in the summer are also a good remedy against aphids. To prepare the infusion, take 1.5-2 kg of green mass and pour 10 liters of water. Insist 10 hours. Op-yaw is carried out three times every 5 days. Sow thistle saves viburnum from powdery mildew. To prepare the infusion, 1 kg of green mass is poured into 3 liters of water and left for 8-10 hours, then filtered and immediately sprayed with the diseased bush. Onions help to cope with powdery mildew and spotting. An infusion of 200 g of husk and 10 liters of water is prepared. Insist for 5-10 hours. Apply three times every 5 days.
Collection and storage of fruits
Ripe viburnum fruits are best harvested after the first frost, then they will not be so bitter and tastier. When harvested before frost (in September - October), the fruits are cut in bunches, placed in the refrigerator and kept for 24 hours at temperatures below zero. Such freezing also has a positive effect on the palatability of the fruit, significantly reducing the bitter taste.
Viburnum is a very popular garden culture in our area. This shrub has won the love of gardeners both for its beautiful decorative appearance and for its extremely useful and tasty fruits, which are rich in vitamins and other substances useful for health. At the same time, caring for the viburnum is quite simple. However, like other garden plants, it is susceptible to attacks from various pests, which must be dealt with in a timely manner.
How to process viburnum
Viburnum pests are quite common and one of the most common pests affecting viburnum bushes is the black viburnum aphid. It is a dark brown or brown insect. Aphids lay their larvae on viburnum leaves, as a result of which the leaves curl and dry out, since the larvae drink all the juice from them. You can fight this pest with the help of special preparations, as well as infusions of pepper, celandine or a solution of laundry soap. Ladybugs also help in the fight against aphids.
Viburnum berry in the photo
This article has helped many gardeners to stop working hard on their site and at the same time get a generous harvest.
I never would have thought that in order to get the best harvest on my personal plot in my entire "summer career", I just need to stop straining in the beds and trust nature. As far back as I can remember, I spent every summer at the dacha. First, on the parental, and then my husband and I bought ours. From early spring to late autumn, all my free time was spent on planting, weeding, garter, pruning, watering, harvesting and, finally, on conservation and trying to preserve the crop until next year. And so in a circle ...
Viburnum treatment from pests in spring
Another common pest of viburnum is a small beetle - viburnum leaf beetle. Their size is only 5-7 mm, but they multiply quickly enough and are able to eat all the leaves of the bush, leaving only large veins. These pests of viburnum are quite dangerous, since the plant damaged by them will not bloom next year. You can fight them by spraying with karbofos, if this is done before flowering, tincture of pepper or chamomile, if spraying is done at a later period.
Kalina diseases and pests
There are other pests of viburnum, which are not so common, but also occur quite often.
Useful properties of viburnum on video
I talked with the neighbors, they advised me to just cut it off and not bother - they say, it's just time to rejuvenate the bush. Okay, I cut it off, but for some reason I wasn't even very surprised when the problems didn't end there. The weakened bush was attacked by aphids, hordes of aphids! And, judging by the comments and other garden blogs, this disaster affected not only my garden, the spring heat was clearly to the taste of the aphids.
Here is such a sad picture ..
Aphid is a small translucent insect with short legs and has a pronounced character of a couch potato vampire. It happens green, black, brown, more often without wings, but it settles with the help of the winged stage of development. Or with the help of ants, who are so fond of the sweetish discharge secreted by aphids, the so-called "honeydew", that they are ready to graze precious "cows" on the best and most succulent plants in our garden .. And this moment is very important, because without scaring off ants from the garden site, the fight against aphids is quite useless.
How to get rid of ants in the area
What do we choose: kill or expel? Let's leave aside all the light and good in our souls for the time being and turn to the harsh truth of life: is there any benefit from ants in the garden? Ants are famous orderlies; they feed on all kinds of caterpillars, and besides, they make a lot of moves in the soil, loosening the earth. It is believed that the waste products of ants provide plants with phosphorus and potassium in a highly assimilable form. There is only one drawback of eternal workers: love for sweets! Love is understandable, but unpleasant for gardeners: in addition to settling aphids, ants gnaw flower petals (for example, my roses suffered a lot this spring), berries and sweet vegetables, such as carrots or pumpkins.
First of all, we removed the hemp from the old branches from the center of the viburnum bush, the oldest of them were clearly used by ants to reach the surface. Then I poured the entrances near the viburnum with boiling water with the addition of soda (4 tablespoons per 3 liters of water) and poured a packet of mustard powder on top - it helped, the ants moved the entrance to the anthill by twenty centimeters, but on the viburnum itself, their numbers dropped noticeably. A more effective way is to dig up the anthill and pour the boiling water inside, but I was afraid to burn the roots. They also advise to sprinkle the plants and the ground around them with ash - I tried this method on a rose, it helped, the ants stopped gnawing the buds. True, at about the same time, I fed the rose with infusion of weeds - they say that its smell also scares away pests. When sowing seeds in the ground in one place, I tried to sprinkle the earth with semolina - the flowers did not sprout, but the ants are still there.
What else to try with ant control: wrap with rags dipped in kerosene, lubricate the branches at the base of the bush with unrefined sunflower oil (with a smell).
For destruction: a mixture of borax with sugar, gel "Great Warrior", pollinate the eggs with Phenaxin or Ant, pour a bucket of water with a dissolved ampoule of Anteater or Maracid into the opened anthill.
How to deal with aphids on plants
So, the ants were driven away, let's start saving plants from aphids.
Spraying them with Coca-Cola (or Pepsi-Cola) is very convenient to spray from a spray bottle, but it didn't work on my aphids at all, except that wasps began to fly more often to sweet caffeine. I tried it on viburnum, chamomile, currant, mock orange. By the way, the viburnum grows quite far from the rest of the garden, it didn't help.
Spraying with ash infusion (a glass of ash is poured with a liter of boiling water and infused for a day, then we add 40 g of grated laundry soap and dilute with water to 10 liters) - it helps !, but I couldn't filter the infusion so as not to clog the spray bottle, it was also inconvenient to work with a sponge , so you have to water from a cup, with the other hand trying to unfold each leaf - it's dreary, disgusting, it's inconvenient with tall branches - but the method is working. Another point - if you process the viburnum during flowering, then you can not wait for the berries. Either the aphid manages to suck the juices, or the ash "burns" the tender ovaries, but the ovaries become sharply smaller, then break off together with the remnants of flowers at the slightest touch. I haven't tried it on currants yet, but on currants, aphids have chosen foliage, and on perennial chamomile they came close to flowers - it's already scary, they wouldn't burn.
Kizima writes that aphids usually do not attack plants treated with the Healthy Garden (2, and in extreme cases 4 grains per liter of water) - they must be processed every two weeks and start, respectively, from early spring. I started in May, two treatments did not give any visible result, then it was no longer up to "homeopathy" ..
What else can you try to get rid of aphids: infusion of coniferous needles (2.5 kg per 10 liters of water, insist for a week, strain, add another 20 liters), infusion of garlic or celandine with the addition of soap, infusion of citrus peels (pour boiling water, insist 3-5 days in the dark, strain and add household soap); before the start of sap flow, a 0.7% solution (700 g per 10 l) of urea; sprinkle the bush with dry tobacco dust; biological preparations: fitoverm, agravertin.
Photo of the same bush two years ago, the very beginning of flowering - I really hope that someday our viburnum will regain its former splendor.
Viburnum pests
1. Viburnum leaf beetle ( Galerucella viburni Payk).
A light brown beetle up to 6 mm long in August lays eggs (up to 700 pieces!) In the grooves made on young shoots. Shoots dry up, but clutches successfully overwinter in them. In early May, larvae emerge from the eggs and immediately begin to intensively feed on young leaves and shoots. In early June, they go to the soil to pupate. In July, beetles appear, eating huge holes in the leaves. With a greater number of leaf beetles do not shun berries and shoots.
Measures to combat the viburnum leaf beetle
Autumn and spring pruning of dried and damaged shoots, removal of leaves with leaf beetle larvae.
Spring processing before leafing and in August during the release of leaf beetles with one of the preparations according to the instructions: " Fufanon", "Karbofos", "Actellic", "Aktara". Double processing" Intavir"with an interval of 7-10 days.
2. Viburnum aphid ( Aphis viburni Scop.)
The black viburnum leaf-rolling aphid is a small insect up to 7 mm long. Larvae appear from hibernating eggs when the leaves open. They reproduce actively by feeding on plant sap. Leaves curl, deform and dry out.
Control measures for viburnum aphids
The first treatment - before bud break - will help significantly reduce the number of overwintered eggs, so it is better not to postpone it. Alternate drugs: "Arrivo", "Fury", "Fufan" (aka "Fufanon") and "Karbaphos". You can also use biological preparations: "Fitoverm", "Akarin" ("Agravertin KE", "Aversectin"), Iskra "," Intavir. They quickly decompose and do not cause addiction in aphids.
3. Other pests of viburnum
Viburnum moth and comma-shaped scabbard are strongly affected. To combat them in May, the plant is treated with "Karbofos" (90 g / 10 l of water), and in August, sprayed " Fufanon " or " Spark ".
Viburnum diseases
In cold, rainy weather, young shoots are affected by various fungal diseases: gray rot, phyllostic spot, fruit rot, powdery mildew.
In wet weather, spots appear on the leaves, a plaque of fungal sporulation. Plant growth slows down, tissue transpiration deteriorates, young shoots dry up, severely damaged leaves fall off prematurely. The plant is poorly prepared for winter, has a "miserable" appearance, the yield decreases. The infection persists in plant debris.
How to deal with viburnum diseases
To prevent diseases such as spotting and powdery mildew, viburnum must be treated with tobacco, garlic or onion infusions throughout the season. Do not forget to remove plant debris, thin out bushes, and carry out sanitary pruning.
In case of severe damage by rot, before leafing out and after flowering, the bushes are treated with a Bordeaux mixture or preparations "Hom", "Abiga-Peak".
