• Preparatory work Before mounting the formwork
• Stages of structures formwork from wooden shields
• Additional generation I. important moments Mounting formwork
• Installation of non-removable formwork

The main purpose of the formwork belt Fundament - the formation of the size and configuration of the design laid down in the project when filling concrete mix. In addition, it must provide optimal temperature and humidity regime during the hardening of concrete and achieve the foundation of design strength.

Any formwork for a ribbon foundation should be easily dismantled after pouring concrete.

Types and conditions for applying formwork structures

The choice of varieties and parameters of the applied formwork for the ribbon foundation determine the type and size of the designed base, its configuration, height above the soil level, the length of the spans, the amount of financial costs, etc.

There are also differences in the degree of thermal conductivity. Used insulated, special and warm designs. The formwork frameworks for dismantling accessibility are divided into removable and non-removable. The use of a non-removable formwork reduces labor costs and increases speed.

In the construction market you can purchase modern prefabricated sets of formwork. Their device allows you to create the correct geometry of the foundation of the foundation.

For operational characteristics and type of formwork material are divided into:

• sliding;
• coarse;
• minor;
• horizontal-moved;
• lifting-stopped;
• volume-stop.

Bulled part ribbon base Sometimes it is characterized directly into the trench, covered with waterproofing film. But in this embodiment, the foundation is deprived of thermal insulation. Therefore, a non-removable formwork is used from the sheets of extruded polystyrene foam, bonded by facade dowels. The thickness of the sheets is 5-10 cm. To the soil of sheets are nailed with long nails (200) mm. Upon completion of the construction of EPS performs the function of the heat insulation of the basement.

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Used Material for Formwork and Work Tool

For the formwork structure, various materials are used:

• wood;
• steel (steel sheets with steel frame);
• aluminum (aluminum shields on steel or aluminum frames);
• plastic (plastic panels with steel ties);
• combinations different materials (for example, plastic sheets with carrier elements of metal).

The obligatory property of the material is its chemical neutrality to the concrete mix.

The formwork design should provide its easy disassembly after appropriate concrete.

In low-rise private construction there is no need to build a ribbon foundation with a height of more than 1 m. Therefore, metal industrial shields of reusable use are rarely applied. The height of the mounted formwork should exceed the calculated by 50-70 mm. If the project is provided by the base, the height of the above-ground part is added.

Small plastic shields (for example, 300 × 600 mm) are conveniently mounted using key-riglee keys. In individual house-building, a wooden or fine-door plastic formwork is more often used. The main elements of the wooden formwork for tape foundations include:

1. Deck - shield from boards or sheet of plywood.
2. Fasteners - wire, screws or nails.
3. Forests - racks and saws that ensure the stability of the formwork.
4. Waterproofing - polyethylene film, EDPM-web, PVC or other materials.

Wooden opalAs a device for filling a ribbon foundation, must have sufficient strength and rigidity. It uses boards and shields of deciduous and coniferous breeds, moisture-proof plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, etc. The removable formwork boards (50-60%) can be used in other structures (for example, as elements of the roof).

The applied board must have:

• humidity - no more than 22%;
• thickness - 25-50 mm;
• width - from 150 mm.

Beginner builders, deciding to build their first object, are thoroughly studying materials and technologies. But already at the stage of preparation for the fill of the foundation it turns out that the issue of assembling the formwork remainsless. Fill this gap and give detailed instructions On the installation of the formwork for the foundation with your own hands.

In our manual, only the installation of the formwork for the belt foundation of the removable design is affected. Failure forms of polystyrene foam blocks and slabs are going much easier, so there are usually problems with them. But the traditional installation of the panel formwork is a mass of nuances, which should be understood.

The installation of factory sets is different from the assembly from scratch. In the first case, you will have to spend money on the finished set of metal and plastic or plywood. Although you will save a little, if you buy a set of used or take it for rent. Pros of this decision:

• Reducing the time spent on the installation of formwork for the foundation.
• Proper geometry and accurate fit forms.
• Smooth inner surface under the fill - in the future, this will save time and means to decorate.

The disadvantage of the finished frame is some standard forms and sizes. Options for fitting under one or another project are possible, but not limitless.

The formwork with your own hands from zero will be more costly. But its value will be minimal, and the experience gained is invaluable. Basic design elements:

1. Deck - is assembled from flat panels that form enclosing form board. The main requirement for formwork materials is sufficient rigidity that does not allow sheets to be bent under loads. Such property has plywood and column panels from a cutting board 40-50 mm.

2. Forests - on their manufacture usually go pine bars and boards for formwork with a thickness of 25-50 mm, which are responsible for the stability of the walls. They also work as external stops that do not allow concrete to squeeze the shields. In fact, it is a frame that holds the deck in its place and preserving its shape.

3. Fasteners - hardware and wire, with which all elements are assembled into a single design. The finished sets produced by different manufacturers can additionally be equipped with special clamps and ties holding shields together.

For self installation, the wooden frame is most often chosen. It is made of boards and a bar or use plywood sheets as shields. Working with sawn timber is easier than with any other, and the ratio of weight and strength for manual installation can be called optimal.

Making deck on their own

Wooden sets of shields are knocked down from several rows of boards 15 cm wide. Earlier, nails were used, scoring them from the inside of the deck and bending the ends outside. Now the screws are used more often - if there is a screwdriver, the installation of the formwork with their help is carried out much faster. The main thing is that the fasteners are on the inside of the shields. It will simplify the subsequent dismantling and will provide a smoother surface of the foundation.

When assembling a deck, it is necessary to shoot down the boards to the coolest so that there are no cracks wider than 3 mm. Large clearances should be closed with a suitable rack size or corporate. Finished shields are installed so that they stood in a row absolutely smoothly, without breaking the shared line. For this, they fasten them with each other connecting spacers.

With the arrangement of a wooden frame for foundation, many seek to save on materials and use old and pitched boards. It is impossible to do this, since concrete when pouring can squeeze them and the solution simply spreads. It is better to immediately make a solid and reliable design, and after dismantling, the liberated lumber is used.

It is much easier and faster than the assembly of molds from plywood sheets. They themselves are full-fledged elements of small formwork. It remains only to fasten them to the frame. The plywood brand needs moisture-proof (FSF), and even better - laminated with a thickness of 18 or 21 mm.

Installation order

The framework of the framework of the carcass implies preliminary training of the site:

• place marking with stretched cords;
• drain of pit or trench if the project provides a ribbon foundation;
• alignment of earth walls;
• failure of the sandy pillow and its seal;
• waterproofing or concrete preparation.

The base should turn out to be smooth - this will allow you to correctly set the framework, observing the perfect verticality of the walls. When the preparation is completed, proceed to the study and consistent implementation of the assembly instruction:

1. Install vertical supports throughout the outline of the foundation and with the help of the homutics to attach guide boards to them. As a support, you can take timber, but trimming metal pipes or corners will be more reliable.

2. Prepare shields and place them with two rows of guides at a distance corresponding to the width of the foundation.

3. Fix the deck with the wire on the supports and rest in oblique bars from the outside. At the same time, the pitching step must be no more than 1 m.

4. To strengthen under a very powerful foundation, you can additionally fasten to shields short bars 50x50 mm. This will increase the stiffness of the walls and will not allow separate panels to shift relative to each other.

5. At the end of the installation, it is shown to form a formwork from the inside by rubroordoid or any other waterproofing material to prevent the premature loss of moisture from the solution. Hydrobarrier to lay mustache.

6. Isolation of brackets to attach to boards higher - where the concrete level will not get.

The ribbon foundation for the fence usually has a small power, so it, like other bases with a height of up to 20 cm, can be poured into formwork without a complex system of stops. With their role, they will fully cope in advance wooden peasants in the ground.

Formwork allows you to imagine the boundaries of the foundation. This must be used when installing fittings. Make sure that when installing its elements do not rest in the wall walls, and the gap is 5 cm everywhere. Then, when the concrete is infused, the metal frame will be reliably protected by a thick layer of corrosion. Hold up the upper gap will help pre-stretched beacons, which can be attached directly to supports.

The fill of concrete into the formwork of the removable design requires also taking care and that the solution does not stick to the walls of the shields. After installing the forms, the inner surfaces of the wooden deck are covered with waterproofing (most often in the rubberoid). Laminated Phaneur is simply wetted by any anti-adhesion composition, such as machine oil through. In addition to simplifying the dismantling, this will save the formwork material from turning when contacting the mixture and increase its service life.

If you are not sure about the resistance to the formwork assembled with your own hands, the concrete is better poured slowly, without much pressure. With a sufficiently rolling line, you can even fill in the form of layers. The phased fill technology is used in the event that the solution has to be prepared in small portions. Here you choose one of two schemes:

1. The layer behind the layer is filled with a mixture of the entire perimeter of the base. It is desirable to prepare such portions of concrete so that the layers turned out to be as small as possible, and they themselves were thorough.

2. With a high length of the foundation, the diagram of the fill of individual sections of the formwork is applied, but immediately for the entire height.

To the layer-by-layer filling, the solution should be resorted only as a last resort. To obtain the most durable and stable monolith, the ribbon foundation is better to pour into one occasion, ordering the delivery of finished concrete from the factory.

Formwork is a design of shields, struts and stops, which serves to give concrete and reinforced concrete products. If we talk about construction, this system is necessary when pouring the foundation of any type, but the largest designs are needed when the device L A is needed. Apply formwork and when creating reinforcing belts in the masonry of walls from building blocks. In the same buildings, often the reinforced belt is needed to create a solid base for fastening. roofing system. It is formed by the help of formwork. We need this design and when pouring concrete tracks or concreting, with some other types of work.

Removable and non-removable

According to the principle of use, the formwork can be removable (collapsible) and non-removable. As it is clear from the name, the removable understands the concrete gains strength above the critical (about 50%). Therefore, it can be used several times. Depending on the material, the same kit can withstand from 3 to 8 fills, industrial options can be used by several dozen, and some - hundreds of times.

Failure formwork becomes an inhabitual part of the foundation. Such systems began to use relatively recently. Make them mainly of extruded polystyrene foam. The blocks of different configurations are produced, which are connected with the help of locks and metal studs. From the blocks, as from the designer, the necessary form is recruited.

Failure formwork becomes part of the foundation - it is also a part-time insulator

The non-removable polystyrene formwork not only gives the form, but also at the same time is heat-hydro insulation, also has sound-insulating properties. It is worth it a lot, but immediately solves a lot of problems, and the time spent on the foundation device is significantly reduced.

There is another type of non-removable formwork - hollow concrete blocks. They also have different configurations - wall, angular, with radius, etc. Consist of two or three walls and several jumpers, holding the walls in a certain position. Compared with each other with locks, reinforced with rods.

Requirements for formwork

Since the whole system is created to give the shape of concrete and reinforced concrete products, it must be sufficiently durable and elastic to resist the pressure of the mass of liquid concrete. Because the materials for formwork are presented quite serious requirements for the part of the strength. In addition, the collected shields must have a smooth and smooth inner surface: it forms the walls of the foundation, and the hydro and / or thermal insulation materials are then fixed on them. Fix them easier to smooth (at least relatively) surfaces.

Materials for removable design

In construction organizations, there are metal structures collected on studs and bolts. In private construction, formwork shields make from boards, moisture resistant plywood and OSP. Wooden bars are used as stops and spacers. No one bothers to make a metal design, but it is very expensive and in one-time use is unprofitable.

During the construction of the cottage or country house, the boards made of boards are most often used. The breed can use any, and coniferous, and deciduous. It is better to take edged: a solution should not be covered through the formwork, and it is impossible to achieve this with an unedged board.

With a foundation height, up to 1.5 meters, the formwork board should have a thickness of at least 40 mm. Shields are fastened with a sections of 60 * 40 mm or 80 * 40 mm brucks. If the foundation height is big - it is not enough such bars in order to keep the mass of concrete. With a height of more than a meter, you need to use a bar 50 * 100 mm and more. For assembly, nails or self-tapping screws are used. Their length is 3/4 from the total thickness of the board and the bar (for the size above 60-70 mm).

Make formwork and plywood. There is even a special formwork, laminated paper with synthetic impregnations. The coating has increased resistance to the aggressive medium, which is liquid concrete. This material FSF is labeled (using formaldehyde glue).

Plywood thickness for formwork - 18-21 mm. Shields are collected on a metal or wooden frame. Wooden frame Make 40 * 40 mm from Brawn, the fasteners need to use a shorter - 50-55 mm. When using plywood, it will be easier to work with self-drawing: nails are clogged hard.

OSB is used for this purpose infrequently, but this option also takes place. The thickness is about the same: 18-21 mm. Structurally does not differ from plywood shields.

The dimensions of these sheet materials are selected based on the dimensions of the required formwork shields - so that the waste is as small as possible. Of particular surface surface is not required, therefore you can take low-grade materials, which are usually called "construction".

What makes the formwork for the foundation decide to decide: depends on the prices of these materials in your region. The usual approach is economic: what is cheaper, then use.

Formwork for a ribbon foundation with your own hands

The most voluminous - formwork for a belt foundation. She repeats the contours of the house and all carrier walls from two sides of the tape. When building a more or less large building with a large number of partitions, the consumption for materials for the formwork of the foundation will be very significant. Especially with the deep attachment of the funldament.

The design of the shields and their connection

When assembling the formwork, it is important to make shields durable: they will need to keep the mass of concrete until the cursing occurs.

The dimensions of the formwork shields are changing and depend on the geometry of the foundation. Height is slightly higher than the foundation height, the length of each shield is determined by themselves, but usually it is inconvenient from 1.2 to 3 m. With very long structures, it is inconvenient to work, so that the optimal length of about 2 m. The total length of the entire formwork should be such that They became accurate on the markup of the foundation (do not forget to take into account the thickness of the shield).

In the manufacture of formwork from boards, cut several pieces of the same length, fasten with bars and nails or screws. When using nails clog them from the inside of the shield, bend on Broke. With self-drawing, it is easier to work: they do not need to bend, since they provide dense adjacent elements due to threads. They are tightened from the inside of the shield (the one that will be addressed to the wall of the foundation).

The first and last bar are attached from the edge at a distance of 15-20 cm. Between them, at a distance of 80-100 cm, put additional. To install formwork shields, it was convenient, two or three bars (along the edges and in the middle) make a 20-30 cm longer. They are sharpened and when installing are scored in the ground.

Shields from plywood or OSB are collected on the frame from Bar. When assembly, it is important to strengthen the corners well. In this design, they are the weakest place. You can enhance them using metal corners.

Installing formwork with your own hands

If the shields made with several elongated bars, they need to be set on the tensioned marking cords. The complexity is that at the same time it is necessary to exhibit in the vertical plane. For fixing, you can use the scored by the mark and the verticals of the bars. When the shield plane is installed close to these bars. They will be support, and guides.

Since the bottom of the trench or the pit should be even (compact it and level it under the level), then put horizontally shields should be simply. Try not to score them hard: it will be easier then to align. Lower one of the corners to the level of the submetock. The slots should not be, the solution should not flow. Having achieved a dense fit, take the construction level, apply along the shield and hammer the second edge until the top edge is installed horizontally. The next shield is already set about the established: they must be at the same level in the same plane.

If the shields are made without long bars, on the bottom of the pit, along the line marking ribbon, the bar is fixed, which will be emphasis. Shields are attached close to it, then with the help of voids and struts are fixed.

Strengthening - Splits and Stop

In order to under the mass of the concrete, the formwork does not fall apart, it must be fixed outside and from the inside.

Outside set off. The backups must stand at least than through the meter. Special attention should be paid to the corners: there are stops in both directions. If the shield height is more than 2 meters, then one belt stops not enough. In this case, there are at least two tiers of struts: upper and lower.

It is necessary to stabilize the distance between two opposite shields. For this purpose, stiletts from reinforcement with a diameter of 8-12 mm, gaskets made of metal and nuts of the corresponding diameter. Studs are installed in two tiers: at the top and bottom, at a distance of 15-20 cm from the edge.

The length of the studs are larger than 10-15 tape width. There are two options:

• In both ends of the reinforcement, thread is cut. Then the two metal sealing plates and nuts will be required for each stud.
• On the one hand, the pin is bend and flattened, a thread is cut with the arc. In this case, the nut is needed one (the plates are still two).

The inner distance between the shields equal to the design width of the tape is fixed by segments plastic pipes. Their inner clearance should be a little more rapid thickness.

The assembly occurs as follows:

• In both shields, a long hole drill is drilled.
• Between them is set to cut pipe.
• Stiletto has been doing.
• Metal plates are installed (they will not allow the hairpin to break the shield material).
• Nuts are twisted and tightened.

You need to work together, and better - threesome. One inside between the shields installs the tubes, and for the person to install the spills and twisting of the nuts.

When removing the formwork, first spin nuts and remove the hairpins, then dismantle the slopes and stops. Freed shields are removed. They can be used further.

How to spend less

A lot of material is leaving for the manufacture of formwork for a tape base: shields form the entire tape on both sides. With great depth, the consumption is very large. Let's just say: it is possible to save. Make only part of the formwork and upload not all in one day, and parts. Despite the widespread opinion, it will almost not affect the strength of the foundation (if you know the secrets), and you can save it decently. You can share the foundation or horizontally, or vertically.

Fill layers

With a big depth, it is more profitable to make fill with parts horizontally (layers). For example, the required depth 1.4 m. You can smash the fill into two or three stages. At two stages, it will be necessary to make shields with a height of 0.8-0.85 m, at three - 50-55 cm.

The order of work is:

When installing the second (and third, if necessary) the tier shields are slightly found on the already flooded area, covering the tape from the sides. At the same time, the bottom row of studs usually serves as a stopper and emphasis. Therefore, when they are installed, put them all on the same level from the bottom edge of the shields.

Armature is already connected, the internal studs are cut. It remains only to put other tubes to return to the place of the hairpins and put out the external stops and disclosures. Time to install the next layer of formwork is not so much.

Why does such a way affect the strength of the foundation? Because when calculating the strength of concrete is not taken into account. She goes to "stock." In addition, the load in ribbon foundations is distributed along the long side. And in the length we have no breaks. So the foundation will stand for a long time.

Vertical division

The second way is the breakdown of the vertical plan. The foundation can be divided into two or three parts. Only you need to share not exactly "along the line", but disseminate the joints for a while.

In the building selected for the installation, you install the formwork with "plugs" in those places where the installed part ends. Inside the installed part knit armature carcass. At the same time, the rods of longitudinal reinforcement should go beyond the formwork at least 50 diameters of the reinforcement used. For example, a rod is used 12 mm. Then the minimum release beyond the formwork will be 12 mm * 50 \u003d 600 mm. The next rod is tied to this issue, and one after another they will enter these 60 cm.

One important detail: breaking the plan of the house in parts, make it so that the "pieces" fill up during this period at different levels (see in the picture).

The second way is to divide the plan for several sites (in the figure they are marked by different colors)

Pour the collected section of concrete. As in the previous method, after 7 * 8 hours it will be necessary to climb the solution, but already on vertical surfaces. Take a hammer and removing the sidewall-plug, get dry cement-sandy solution To the rubbent (near the formwork will most likely, a layer of a solution without aggregate). As a result, the surface will be shrumbat, which is good for clutch with the next portion of the solution.

These methods can safely be used in private construction: they are practiced in the construction of monolithic multi-storey houses, and there are workers on concrete walls and the foundation is incomparable.

There is another trick. Everyone says that boards or phaneur can then be used in auxiliary work. In practice, it turns out differently: it is impossible to cut into the cement in the cement of wood or Phaneru. In addition, it becomes dirty and rough, and it is also impossible to clean and polish it: no grain "does not take." So, so that wood (and plywood, if non-aluminated) remains suitable, the front of the shields are tightly tightened. It is fixed with a construction stapler and brackets. If it is damaged, the replacement takes quite a bit of time. The formwork enhanced in this way gives an almost perfectly smooth surface of the foundation, which facilitates the subsequent work on hydro and heat insulation.

It is a form in which concrete is flooded. This design In the process of the construction of the foundation, it assumes the totality of loads - static and dynamic - from the fill of the concrete mass.

In this regard, it is imposed on high demands on the rigidity and strength of the structure. A device for formworking a ribbon foundation () can be performed using different materials - metal, plywood, boards, or, in the case of a non-removable formwork device, expanded polystyrene ().

The most common type of formwork in private construction is a minor collapsible, made of bars and boards (). Methods for installing its elements depend on the type of soil.

Installing formwork on durable soils

Durable primer can play the role of formwork itself. In this case, the shields are installed only for the formation of the above-ground part of the foundation.

The walls of the trench in this case are thoroughly aligned and covered with waterproofing material. Wooden formwork panels are mounted along the edge of the trench (). They are fixed with ducks made of bars and scraping board.

To increase the strength of the discharge, you can navigate to the zeal, pre-jammed into the ground at a distance of one meter (at least!) From the edge of the trench. Sometimes they are used simply to stop. In this case, the formwork design does not have a hard compound with stubborn pegs.

The number of divers usually corresponds to the number of vertical formwork bars. To enhance the stability of the wooden shape, the opposite elements are fastened by bars - jumpers. They are installed in increments of 0.5-1.0 m.

In the process of mounting shields, it is necessary to monitor their position: deviations from vertical, wasting and deflection are not allowed. To control, you can use the rail, construction level or rule. The length of any of them should be 2 meters.

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Maximum allowable deviations:

• vertical - no more than 5 mm / m of the height of the formwork;
• from the plane (local deviations) - no more than 3 mm for the board and 2 mm - for plywood;
• displacement of the axis of the formwork relative to the project position of the foundation belt - not more than 10 mm.

The internal (facial) side of the formwork should be covered with waterproofing material with a bottom of the trench. This will help protect it from the break in the fill process.

The upper edge of the waterproofing is overflowing through the edge of the formwork to the outside and fastened with the help of a construction stapler. If this is not done, the material can slide inward under the influence of concrete mass.

Installation of formwork in weak soils

Unstable, loose soils formwork for a ribbon foundation () can not serve. In such cases, you have to install shields on the entire height of monolith.

The width of the trench should be sufficient so that its walls are not constrained by the builder in the process of work. Its walls are performed with a tilt from the bottom to the side opposite to the tape (the cross-section of the trench has a kind of trough).

Installing the formwork on weak soils differs from the first case by the presence of additional divosers installed in the lower part of the structure. Supporting pegs for upper sinks are clogged at a distance of at least 1 meter from the edge of the trench.

If the formwork shields are made of plywood on a frame of bars, it is desirable to pull the opposite shields with threaded studs. Holes for them are drilled in plywood, and not in bars. Segments are placed inside the formwork steel pipe Length equal to the width of the ribbon of monolith.

Studs are inserted into these bushings. When the time comes to disassemble the formwork, the studs are easily removed, and the bushings remain in the foundation forever. Holes should be sealed with cement mortar.

Combined opal

Installing the formwork for a ribbon foundation with your own hands can be combined with its insulation. On weak soils, the thermal insulation material is completely mounted inside.

Somewhat different work on durable soils:

• the trench is digging along the width of the tape plus two thickness of the insulation;
• facade dowels are installed on the insulation (they are needed for reliable mounting of the heat insulating layer to concrete);
• the insulation is attached directly to the walls of the trench with construction nails 150-200 mm;
• in the zone of the aboveground part of the foundation, the insulation is attached to the inside of the formwork.

For fastening heat insulation plates to shields used screws. Moreover, their working length should be so that the fastener's body does not move beyond the limits of the insulation.

Video formwork for a ribbon foundation with their own hands.

Formwork for the foundation is pretty simple. Although there are its subtleties that must be taken into account. Before starting work, you need to get acquainted with the instructions for its installation. The instruction will allow you to work much faster and avoid typical errors.

Device

The formwork is a special set of details that are intended to produce monolithic blocks. With regard to the foundation we can say that in this case it makes it possible to create a part of it, which will be located above the Earth.

Formwork is two types:

• removable;
• non-removable.

The first variety is usually made of boards or metal. The second species is made of polystyrene foam.

Formwork is a standard design. In other words, all kinds of formwork are similar in general. SAMI simple design This type is created using boards, beams and nails.

Simple opal

Formwork for the foundation is usually made from the boards. This is an economy option that suits many builders.

1. In order to make such a design, only boards, bar and nails are needed. You can also think about the backups.
2. On the perimeter of the foundation it is necessary to drive the planks (pegs). From the inside on the plank, a board or plywood is stuffed.
3. Installing the formwork should be carried out so that the future outer walls of the foundation are not curves or decompositions. Otherwise, the walls will then work incorrect. It is better to work with the level.

Additionally installed backups, make the design smooth.

Between the walls of the formwork poured the mixture. Boards cannot be removed until the mixture is dry.

Ready solutions

Today there are already ready-made solutions. Such formwork has a number of advantages:

• the master does not have to spend time on making design;
• the formwork made in production conditions does not have errors;
• this design is much stronger;
• finished formwork can be wooden or metal;
• the master can book a design according to its own calculations.

Finished formwork, of course, will cost no cheap. But at the same time the wizard does not have to work and extin all components. Correction of shortcomings caused by the use of poor-quality planks may be more expensive.

Non-removable

Where there is a very high load on the foundation, a non-removable formwork is necessary.

This type of formwork is beneficial for a number of reasons. Failure design reduces heat loss. It also saves on materials. Using the formwork of a non-removable type, you can not worry about the ground floors.

Polyenopolster, laid next to the formwork, protects the walls. It does not produce soil, and it creates safe conditions for walls.

For belt foundation

Usually in this case, boards and backups are used. Boards must have a thickness of about 50 mm. The height of the formwork can reach 2 meters.

Installing the formwork for a ribbon foundation begins with guide boards.

If the design is very high (exceeds 2 meters), then instead of boards it is better to use shield materials. To ensure due strength, the shield width must be equal to height.

There should be no cracks in the formwork. Of course, they inevitably arise, but the master should close them. Before the fill of the mixture, small gaps are clogged with packles, and large masked with special rails.

Complexity of work

Installation of formwork is a time-consuming occupation. The master must necessarily understand all the subtleties of this process. Many newbies only after the construction of the design begin to be interested when removing formwork from the foundation. If the builder has no time for such subtleties, then it is better to immediately contact the specialists.

What specific details need to know before starting to work:

1. It is necessary to choose which type of formwork will be used in a particular case. For example, a removable formwork is most often installed when there is no need to warm the walls of the base. In the regions where they prevail very coldyThis kind of formwork is not a good choice.
2. The formwork design depends on what is the foundation under it. Depending on the type of foundation, materials for construction are selected.

Pouring subtlety - more Polbie. The master must clarify the composition of the mixture fill. To do this, you need to know which brand of concrete is used to make a design, and whether other materials should be added there.

Someone believes that the construction of formwork is just nails and a pair of boards of the desired size. This is partly so, because the formwork is just one of the transitional stages from the building of the foundation to the walls of the building.

However, today there are quite complex systems where a pair of boards cannot do. We are talking about wall formwork. Thanks to such a system, modern architects can create truly ambitious structures.

IN lately Popular film formwork has become popular. This species implies the wrapping of the design with film material. Thus, it is possible to achieve the desired savings during construction.

Formwork is done during a couple of days. It is so much time that the concrete is dry. During this period, you should not disturb the design so as not to disturb it symmetry. Boards with formwork should be removed carefully, after checking the condition of the walls. In some cases, it takes three days to dry out concrete.

Video

We offer for viewing video footage about the construction of formwork.