This service is in great demand in Moscow and the Moscow region. It is customary to order Ilosos if there is a need for such manipulations:

• pumping out septic tanks;

cleaning of sewer wells, cesspools at car washes;

pumping out used oils and petroleum products with their subsequent disposal;

pumping and removal of sludge, drill cuttings;

cleaning the sewage system and reservoirs.

As numerous practice shows, any independent pumping water from the surface, pumping water from the floor, pumping out dirty water leads only to complications of the situation and an increase in your expenses.

High quality and reliable services

You can always be confident in our professionalism and responsibility. We use advanced technologies and modern equipment that pump out water and various waste in a completely sealed environment.

This process guarantees complete preservation without leakage of liquid and dirt, without the release of unwanted and repulsive odors. The sewage pumps offered for rent are characterized by their excellent technical characteristics, maneuverability, reliability and extreme ease of use.

These special devices allow you to quickly remove sludge, pump out dirty water from the floor and other surface, pump out industrial waste and transport it to the disposal site.

Ilosos as a functional technique

It is customary to use a sewage suction machine for the extraction, transportation and shipment of liquid non-explosive ultra-raw materials. Also, as an additional function, such devices can flush tanks and pipelines, supplying water from a pump at high pressure.

Services for pumping water from basements

The reason for the appearance of water in the basement can most often be the nearby placement of groundwater to the surface of the earth. As a result, the soil is moistened, which, with additional precipitation, is not able to quickly absorb additional moisture.

The only alternative in such a case is to pump out dirty water from the basement using a sewage pump. This machine will easily pump out 10 cubic meters of water. The use of this technique is also appropriate for draining and pumping water from a large surface.

Cleaning and pumping out dirty water using a vacuum system

Vacuum cleaning is used when removing sludge from a well, storm and sewer systems, cleaning drains.

• We provide the following services:
• cleaning of collectors and sewerage systems;
• elimination of flooding;
• pumping out cesspools and septic tanks;
• maintenance of treatment structures.

We use a special gun that removes any blockage using a pressurized water supply. In their work, the specialists of our company use only high-quality vacuum equipment, the tightness of which does not allow leaks and unpleasant odors.

Pumping water from the floor using drainage pumps

Such pumps are designed to pump out water with debris of various sizes or sand. Such a device has not only the standard parameters for all pumps (flow and head), but also additional functions (for passing small debris). With a drainage submersible pump, you can drain the pool, pump out water from the floor or from the basement. They are mobile, lightweight and can operate in auto mode.

The Promplast company is a guarantee of the quality of the services provided

We are ready to pump any waste in large quantities. The company employs experienced professionals who provide services carefully, quickly and thoroughly. If you need to rent a sewage pump or call such a machine to the desired facility, call our consultants.

The advantage of our services:

• a wide range of quality equipment;
• prompt work;
• modern European technologies;
• personal approach to each client.
• We will make your life comfortable!

Feedback from our client

An unpleasant situation happened recently. I don’t understand anything in the sewers, so I called the company and asked for help. They said that they would need to clean up the storm water system, agreed on the time and price. I was afraid that something would go wrong, but the guys did the job, thanks.

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Cockroach control methods

• Mechanical destruction;

Mechanical destruction

• Bay leaf.
• Rye ears.
• Feverfew is fragrant.
• Elderberry inflorescences.

Using traps

Preventive measures

Qualitative observance of the above measures will guarantee that you will never encounter the problem of cockroaches in your room and whether cockroaches can live in the basement, such a question will not even arise. So watch the video and you can get to work. \u003d\u003e Cockroaches in the basement: reasons for their appearance and ways of getting rid \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e publish \u003d\u003e open \u003d\u003e closed \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e tarakany-v-podvale-327 \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e 2016-09-14 00:30:55 \u003d \u003e 2016-09-13 20:30:55 \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e 0 \u003d\u003e? P \u003d 4526 \u003d\u003e 0 \u003d\u003e post \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e 1 \u003d\u003e raw \u003d\u003e)) \u003d\u003e 1 \u003d\u003e -1 \u003d\u003e \u003d \u003e WP_Post Object (\u003d\u003e 4526 \u003d\u003e 2 \u003d\u003e 2016-09-17 15:17:44 \u003d\u003e 2016-09-17 11:17:44 \u003d\u003e How to get rid of cockroaches in the basement How to get rid of cockroaches in the basement today Consider in different versions. After all, in principle, everyone knows that there is no universal remedy in this matter. For some, one option is suitable, but it will not suit in another room. Therefore, to get rid of cockroaches, it is not uncommon to try several remedies. , you can do everything yourself, and the price of the work is not high, you just have to be patient.

Cockroach control methods

Exist different methods extermination of harmful insects. The most popular and effective at the moment are:

• Mechanical destruction;
• Application of temperature exposure;
• Application of repellent, poisonous chemicals and baits.

Attention: Cockroaches are inherently very difficult to exterminate, they are quite tenacious. Therefore, when dealing with them, it is recommended to apply several methods of influence at once.

Mechanical destruction

Such a remedy for fleas (see) and cockroaches in the basement is considered the easiest, but its use is not effective enough as a result. Naturally, it is easy to kill insects using available tools such as a fly swatter or newspaper. But to achieve a long-term effect with their help will not work. After killing one individual, there will be no obvious result, respectively, if you use this method, combine it with other products.

Temperature effect on insects

Many existing insect species cannot tolerate prolonged exposure to low temperatures. If you shut off the heat source for a long time, they will leave the room or be destroyed. Of course, it's a pity, but this method will not bring results, and is not used in apartments and houses where there is central heating. But it will be useful to those who own a private house and those who own autonomous gas heating.

Use of chemicals

Chemicals are classified as repellent agents for the destruction of cockroaches. The first subspecies is a deterrent. It has been proven that cockroaches cannot tolerate certain types of odors. These properties were used in repellents. For the first time, try applying folk methods, invented by our ancestors.

Photo we poison cockroaches in the basement Domestic cockroaches will not be able to stay in rooms where:

• Bay leaf.
• Rye ears.
• Feverfew is fragrant.
• Elderberry inflorescences.

Despite their complete harmlessness to humans and the positive results that natural repellents can give, they often do not have positive effectiveness. Do not be surprised when you see a cockroach crawling through fresh bouquets of elderberries. These insects are great at adapting to changes in the environment that surrounds them. If you want cockroaches to be guaranteed to be driven out of your home, then it is worth using specially developed chemicals. They are produced in the form of a spray or dust. Substances are sprayed or laid out in the corners of the entire apartment, in all hard-to-reach places. You will notice positive result after a while: the number of cockroaches will decrease significantly.

Poisonous chemicals (insecticides)

Insecticides are designed specifically for the complete extermination of insects. Their biggest disadvantage is that you will often clean the premises of dead cockroaches.

Attention: Also, this type of drug can harm the health of you, your animals and people living with you. There are means, the use of which is completely prohibited when there are minor children and pets in the room.

• If the situation has reached a catastrophic level, take the children and pets and treat the area using double the dosage of the product. Close all windows and doorways tightly and leave the area for about six hours. After returning, you should ventilate the room as thoroughly as possible, sweep away dead cockroaches and carry out a major cleaning of all treated surfaces and objects.
• Poisonous substances designed to kill insects are sold in the form of spray, dust, crayon, gel and traps. They are produced under different brands, but have the same qualities. Under the influence of their constituent substance, insects quickly become paralyzed and die very quickly.
• Read the instructions for use carefully before use. Use insecticides as many times as necessary to make them disappear. In practice, re-use is done about a month after the first use. Do not stop using the product until you have completely eradicated all cockroaches.

Attention: Please note that sometimes even chemical agents cannot guarantee a complete solution to your question. If the cockroach drinks a little water, the chemical will not be able to act on it. Therefore, deciding to get rid of annoying insects, be patient and combine different methods.

• According to statistics, complete extermination of insects occurs in 2 months. Be aware that there are times when the use of toxic substances cannot guarantee the complete disappearance of the problem situation.
• If the insects have even the slightest access to a water source, the insecticide will not have any harmful effects on them. Therefore, having decided to get rid of malicious creatures, be patient and combine several methods of extermination. It has been practically proven that it takes up to two months for insects to completely leave the premises.

Using traps

If, nevertheless, cockroaches are in no hurry to leave the room, try to use traps against them. Use a variety of foods to get their attention. Rest assured that no insect will miss any food that is within reach. So:

• Apply sunflower oil on the walls of the glass container. The cockroach will freely penetrate inside, attracted by the smell of food, but it will not get out in the opposite direction. Empty such baits 1 time in a few days. The trap with glue is quite popular. Apply it next to a delicious bait. It will stop insects going directly to food - they stick to the treated surface.
• To increase the effect, you can make the bait poisoned... Add a small amount to it boric acid or boil hard-boiled chicken eggs and mix the acid with the cooked eggs. Make round balls out of the mixture, and scatter them in the corners of the closet, in the kitchen and in other places where they can accumulate.
• The traps produced in our time are distinguished by originality.... Some affect insects by hitting them with a discharge of electricity, others affect the sex characteristics of an insect, leaving it sterile in the process.

Preventive measures

After the destruction of all harmful insects, do not forget to complete the work done with a control blow:

• Residents of apartment buildings often make a cruel mistake, starting to poison cockroaches alone. Leaving your habitat, they will not return to the basement or sewer system; they will make it much easier - they will move to neighbors. These “transfers” will continue indefinitely. Pests can easily make their way into your home through small cracks or a common hood.
• There remains only one ideal solution to the problem - joining forces to exterminate uninvited guests on several floors. Remember also about the favorite habitat of pests - garbage chutes. The most effective option is to brew it forever. If this is not possible, call the SES or a brigade of insect exterminators. They will do the required processing of the desired congestion area and kill the cockroaches.
• It may happen that disinfection will need to be done regularly, but the timely intervention of professionals can guarantee that insects will not enter the treated building for several more years. It is remarkable that the agents used scare away various insects. While they are in effect, you should not be afraid of the sudden detection of bugs of other "domestic" insects in your home.
• In addition, it will not be superfluous to organize a stable cleaning of entrances. Be aware that pests will not start in well-cleaned places where there is no moisture. When it is not easy to keep perfectly clean in public places, try to do it in your apartment. The most problematic places in the apartment are the kitchen and the bathroom. It is here that cockroaches and other reptiles constantly live and breed.

Attention: Do not forget to check all ventilation compartments, as they make it possible to enter the apartment from public areas. If necessary, use a fine mesh to block the entry holes.

In fact, cockroaches are quite dangerous pests. Their extermination in apartments is extremely important. Effective measures for "war" by pests should contain:

• Joint efforts of all residents of neighboring apartments or private sectors. Simultaneous use of various options for exterminating and repelling insects.
• Stable and high-quality preventive measures (in particular in places with the presence of a basement and a garbage chute).

Qualitative observance of the above measures will guarantee that you will never encounter the problem of cockroaches in your room and whether cockroaches can live in the basement, such a question will not even arise. So watch the video and you can get to work. \u003d\u003e Cockroaches in the basement: reasons for their appearance and ways of getting rid \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e publish \u003d\u003e open \u003d\u003e closed \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e tarakany-v-podvale-327 \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e 2016-09-14 00:30:55 \u003d \u003e 2016-09-13 20:30:55 \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e 0 \u003d\u003e? P \u003d 4526 \u003d\u003e 0 \u003d\u003e post \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e 1 \u003d\u003e raw \u003d\u003e) \u003d\u003e 0 \u003d\u003e -1 \u003d\u003e 331 \u003d \u003e 331 \u003d\u003e 0 \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e 1 \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e \u003d\u003e Array (\u003d\u003e query_vars_hash \u003d\u003e query_vars_changed) \u003d\u003e Array (\u003d\u003e init_query_flags \u003d\u003e parse_tax_query))

If the basement is periodically flooded, and it is not possible to solve the problem at the root, it is necessary at least to organize the pumping of water and its discharge. Therefore, we propose to get acquainted with the technique of draining basements and the equipment used for this.

Working with the basement floor

The constant presence of water in the basement is not only harmful supporting structure and interior fittings. First, you need to solve the problem of practicality: remove dirt and facilitate the rapid flow of water to a certain common point from which it will be removed. It is advisable to carry out all work during the period of the greatest drop in the level of groundwater: in a summer drought or in winter, if the basement is warm.

First, you need to deepen the basement floor. Ideally, in order to reduce the harmful effect of water on the walls, it is necessary to deepen below the level of their occurrence by 25-30 cm. The floor must be planned in a special way, creating the correct slope. Even small changes in level can trap water, causing dampness and a smell of musty water in the basement.

It is easier to place the bottom point for all slopes in the corner of the basement or closer to its center, if the floor area exceeds 20 m 2. It is advisable to adhere to the length along the fall of the inclined section of no more than 5-6 m. The convergence lines of the slopes are almost always located diagonally. They place steel pipesused in the manner of beacons as when pouring a screed.

1. Pit. 2. Clay lock over the entire floor surface with a slope towards the pit. 3. Gutters. 4. Foundation of the house

The planned floor should ultimately be a hydraulic lock made of soaked and carefully tamped clay. Even if sandy loam has already gone at the available depth, there should be a layer of clay 15-20 cm, otherwise the deposition of sedimentary particles along with water will be pronounced. When a castle is installed 30-40 cm from the walls, the floor rises sharply at an angle of 30-35 °, forming a kind of doorways, the height of which is 3-5 cm below the zero mark.

A particularly difficult case is basements with a monolithic concrete floor that has lost the integrity of the waterproofing. Slopes in this case are formed at the existing level using a preparatory screed. It is very important to ensure its high-quality adhesion to the main body, therefore, often the concrete floor has to be thoroughly cleaned and special modifiers used to improve adhesion.

In both cases, to make the floor suitable for walking, it is necessary to lay on it a hygroscopic bedding of 20-25 cm of fine gravel or knock down the gangways. To avoid subsidence of gravel through the clay floor, it must be covered with a layer of geotextile. It is important to additionally protect the walls from high humidity, for which you can use moisture-resistant plaster compounds or "liquid glass".

How to equip a catchment pit

At the point of descent of the slopes, a pit is arranged in which the flowing water will be collected. It has one more purpose: in deep basements, a wide, recessed "well" helps to eliminate excess groundwater pressure and the associated floor swelling.

The pit does not have to be arranged before pouring the substrate, it is enough to knock down the panel formwork in advance in a square with a side of about 80 cm. A small depression is dug in this shape. The total volume of the sump should be 0.5 m 3 or more if water is supplied actively.

The working part of the header is represented by the casing. Its diameter should allow the installation of a float drainage pump for pumping water, approximately 350-400 mm. The pipe can be either steel or asbestos-cement or polyethylene - there is no fundamental difference. In the walls in a checkerboard pattern, holes with a diameter of 12-14 mm must be drilled with a distance of about 25 cm between them. Before installation, it is recommended to wrap the pipe with several layers of plastic mesh with a mesh of up to 5 mm.

1. HDPE pipe. 2. Pit. 3. Drainage pump. 4. Drainage pipe. 5. Gravel bed

The bottom of the casing pipe is deaf, it can be either welded or concreted with a layer of about 7-8 cm. After installing the pipe, the formwork is removed, and the remaining space in the pit is filled with the same rubble that was used to fill the floor. Install the casing so that the upper edge comes out flush with the zero floor mark. For ease of passage, the water intake is covered with a removable welded mesh made of reinforcement.

IN concrete floor the pit must be equipped in such a way that the horizontal insulation of the floor is not disturbed. The easiest way to fill is to use a 20 kg bucket from building mixtures, which is temporarily filled with water and rubble from floating up. If there was no pit in the basement, part of the floor should be disassembled and a sump should be cast using modified concrete with low water absorption.

Choosing a pump for pumping

Most submersible slurry pumps are suitable for pumping water. Performance is of key importance: it must be large enough to cope with the volume of incoming water, at the same time, an unnecessarily powerful pump will operate in intermittent mode, which will affect the durability of the contact group and the motor.

The height of the head should be appropriate for your site and the prepared water discharge field. Usually, a lifting height of 10-12 m is quite enough, but you always need to make a small reserve of power in case the drain pipe is not straight or has a long length.

The ingress of all kinds of debris into the pump cannot be ruled out, although when the right device casing, this will be minimal. The pump should be capable of pumping sand slurry with a fraction of up to 3-5 mm, the specific size depends on the mesh used for the casing filter.

How and which pipe to lay

For water drainage, it is desirable to use pipes with the lowest hydrodynamic resistance. For pumping contaminated water, HDPE pipes with smooth walls and the possibility of an extended laying without connections are optimal. The diameter must match the pump connection.

In the area closest to the pump, the pipe should be raised to approximately the discharge level, that is, the first pipe segment should be mounted as vertically as possible and without kinks. The output of the pipe from the basement must be done in the nearest wall by digging from the back side. The passage is carefully closed cement mortar, damaged waterproofing is being restored.

The HDPE pipe can be laid without a special prepared bed and even above the freezing depth, if a slope of at least 1000: 5 is provided. It is recommended, however, not to lay the pipe unprotected in rocky ground and open over the surface.

Where to dump water

The place for the discharge of the pumped-out water is selected based on the volume of pumped-out and the intensity of flooding. For short seasonal floods, the method of water discharge into / onto the soil with the device of the simplest filtration field is quite suitable. The trench in which the perforated section of the pipe is laid must be deepened and covered with coarse road rubble and sand, alternating layers with non-woven geotextiles. On average, for one cubic meter of discharged water, the length of the trench should be 6-8 m.

A more voluminous discharge requires the laying of its own channel to the nearest reclamation or drainage trench. A limited amount of water can also be received by a self-equipped filter well. Do not forget that with a year-round flow of water into the basement, its continuous pumping is not the best way deliverance. An intense flow of moisture in the soil leads to its erosion, which affects both the relief and the reliability of buildings on a shallow foundation.

• Creation of an external drainage system
• Internal drainage making
• Pit: what is it?
• Emergency work in case of emergency
• The fastest way to pump out water

Surely most of the happy owners of private houses faced the problem of how to pump water out of the basement and what is the best way to do it. This problem is one of the most pressing, especially in regions that are regularly heated by rainwater.

There are ways to drain water from the basement. The most popular is the creation of an internal and external drainage system.

There are several options for how and how to pump out water, but they are all based on the variations below.

And after that, you can organize a pit and work out the quality of its work.

Creation of an external drainage system

Materials and tools:

1. Drainage pipe.
2. Viewing well.
3. Bayonet shovel.
4. Wheelbarrow for soil.
5. Concrete rings and cover.
6. Concrete solution m 50.
7. Crushed stone.
8. Sand.
9. Geotextile.
10. Excavator.

A drainage system is a system for drawing and removing water from a house. It will take a lot of time and effort to organize it. the use of technology is kept to a minimum. It is the external drainage system that is the primary protector of the house from water.

The drainage depth is exactly 0.4 m below the foundation. The ditch around the house is dug with shovels, the width of the ditch is 1.2 m. The technique cannot be used for fear of damaging the base of the house.

After the main trench is ready, you can make straight bends of 5 m from 4 sides (permissible with the help of an excavator). The bends end with an even larger depression, which in diameter will coincide with the purchased concrete rings.

Geotextiles are covered at the bottom of the trench. Then a drainage pipe is laid. Every 7-10 m, the drainage pipe is interrupted to install a manhole. And from the corners, the drainage pipe is diverted into concrete collectors, where it is lowered by 30-40 cm.

The difference between a drainage pipe and any other is in its corrugated structure and perforated surface. The corrugation will provide some bending flexibility and increased strength characteristics, and the perforation is used for water intake.

Inspection wells are needed to monitor the progress of the drainage system. If the drain is clogged (which is almost impossible), then it should be opened and the sand is cleaned of plaque.

1. Large crushed stone. The layer ends 10 cm before the start of the foundation slab.
2. Sand. Directly to the foundation.
3. Large crushed stone. 15 cm to the ground surface.

Directly under the house, crushed stone is poured from above with a concrete blind area, and after it hardens, it digs into the width of a bayonet and is filled with any large stone aggregate that will be pleasing to the eye.

There remains a fairly long tunnel 15 cm deep, which is convenient to use for storm drain.

Back to the table of contents

Internal drainage making

Materials and tools:

1. Drainage pipe.
2. Concrete drill or hammer drill.
3. Concrete mortar.
4. Clay.
5. Sheet steel.
6. Steel grates.
7. Geotextile.

If concrete floors have already been made, they will have to be completely dismantled. This would have to be done in the case of making a pit, but for drainage the work will be more global, because the floors are removed completely. If a pit is made, then there is no need to do internal drainage.

It is convenient to make internal drainage if the external one runs much lower than the intended line, i.e. the work was carried out not in relation to the foundation, but in relation to the concrete base of the basement. Otherwise, there will be nowhere to dump water.

Once broken concrete base and the land is cleared of debris, you can start work. Initially, the floor is covered with geotextiles. Drainage pipes run in increments of 0.5 m from one wall to another. Near 2 opposite walls there are 2 drainage connecting pipes that connect everything together.

These pipes are led out through the concrete wall. To do this, you will need to drill the concrete slightly at an angle. Thus, the drainage will have 2 branches on opposite sides, which will perfectly cope with its work.

After the pipe, they are seized with clay from below. Clay locks should line up the pipe from the middle to the bottom so that the floor connection is 90 °. Now the pipes can be overlaid with thin sheets of cut sheet metal or sheet steel. This is necessary so that the concrete does not fall into the pipe and does not damage further work.

Now the concrete solution is pouring m100. The filling height should exceed the pipe by 1–2 mm. On the pipe itself, in turn, a thin steel grate on these same 1-2 mm and is slightly recessed in concrete.

After the concrete has set (15-18 days), the basement can be fully used without fear of flooding. If water gets into the room, it will itself be pumped out almost instantly through the drainage system.

Back to the table of contents

Pit: what is it?

Materials and tools:

1. Bayonet shovel.
2. The brick is solid.
3. Cement mortar.
4. Stainless steel bucket.
5. Roulette.
6. Reinforcing rod.
7. Welding machine.
8. Bulgarian.

Making a drainage system is a good undertaking, but very troublesome and expensive. If there is no desire to invest a lot of money, then you can replace the structure with a simpler, albeit less convenient, pit.

Exactly in the center of the basement, a cube-shaped hole is dug, which is 1 m³ in volume. If the basement has a large area, then you can deepen the pit a little, but the walls should be perfectly flat, and the bottom goes in the form of a funnel, increasing the depth towards the center.

In the center of the pit, at the very bottom, another recess is made, but already in such a way as to place 1 stainless steel bucket there. The bucket is carefully compacted with soil on the sides, and leveled from above.

The pit walls are laid out in half a brick (used solid brick), after which the entire pit is covered with cement 2 cm thick. There should not be a single gap left on the walls and bottom, and the connection to the floor should, if possible, look monolithic.

While the cement hardens, you need to lay a reinforcing grid from the thickest reinforcement that can be found. The step of the reinforcing rods will be 30 cm so that the pump can be easily immersed and removed into the resulting cell.

Any submersible pump is used that is not afraid of the ingress of air with water and small particles up to 15 mm (it is best to use models with a grinder). Another 1 requirement that must be met is the presence of a float that automatically turns the pump on and off.

In order to ensure the flow of water into the pit, it is necessary to arrange 3-5 mm grooves in the floor. It is most convenient to use floor tiles for this purpose, but if this is not possible, then the floor can be covered with a layer of cement of the required thickness. Before pouring the solution, a corresponding pattern of pipes or any large improvised means is laid on the floor. Then you get the perfect water intake grooves, which will provide water supply where required.

The creation of a pit that works without human intervention will take a total of 2-2.5 weeks, taking into account the solidification of the cement solution.