The tree is beautiful construction material, from which many structural elements in residential construction are made.

It is wood floors that testify to the status of a house or apartment, they create warmth, comfort, fit well into the interior, but are susceptible to the adverse effects of high humidity, pest damage, resulting in their destruction.

What means is it possible to protect a wooden floor? Let's figure it out in the article.

Material processing methods made it possible to identify such groups wooden floors:

• wooden floor from solid board (flooring);
• piece parquet;
• parquet board;
• mosaic floor.

In wooden structural elements, a person is attracted by such qualities as strength, easy installation, environmental friendliness, durability, excellent appearance, adaptation to the interior.

Elements for arranging parquet, parquet boards, mosaic floors are pre-treated with antiseptic, moisture-proof and fire-prevention treatment. In contrast, boardwalk is sometimes subject to negative processes that subsequently destroy it.

How to keep moisture out of wood

It is ideal to solve this problem at the stage of material procurement. It will take at least 1 year to dry wood in natural conditions.

The moisture level of wood for use in construction is 15%. Exceeding the threshold threatens premature destruction of the floor.

What contributes to the defeat of the floor by mold, fungi, and then rot? Excessive moisture and violation of the temperature regime: sudden changes from cold to hot temperatures, improper ventilation. It is moisture that causes the further formation of wood rot.

Ways to protect against decay

Harbingers of the decay process are the formation of mold and mildew on the surface. Fungal organisms not only spoil the appearance of the tree, but are also harmful to health and can cause allergic reactions.

Protection of a wooden floor from decay begins in the first hours after harvesting wood - it is then that it is recommended to process the workpieces by soaking with the use of the "Wood Healer" product, which prevents the formation of blue and mold fungus.

To protect the wooden floor from adverse influences, constructive and chemical methods are used. Structural is the protection provided by the construction project:

1. Waterproofing and vapor barrier - for indoor floors. The construct is isolated from the influence of soil, metal, concrete, stone - on the one hand, and from the steam generated in the room - on the other.
2. Ventilation. It prevents the accumulation and stagnation of moist air, promotes its exchange and maintains the necessary humidity in the room.
3. Special design solutions: blind areas, drainage systems. In open spaces (verandas, terraces, balconies) canopies, awnings are used.

The chemical substances for wood protection on the market are aimed at combating fungi, rotting - varnishes, paints, antiseptics. This group is represented by water-soluble, organic-soluble, oily substances and antiseptic pastes.

There is a group of fire retardants based on liquid glass, which protects the tree from moisture and makes it fire resistant.

Chemicals for protection

To protect the wooden floor from decay, chemical methods are used: penetrating and film-forming solutions.

Among the penetrating substances, Aidol Langzeit Lasur stands out - a biocide-free glaze made on the basis of alkyd resins with a wide range of shades.

With its help, it is possible not only to make a finishing opening of the surface, but also to reliably regulate the moisture content of the wood - the solution has water-repellent properties, it is absorbed into the material.

Aidol Langzeit Lasur is used in residential premises, hypoallergenic.

Belinka Interier Sauna is an acrylic resin based film-forming agent. Recommended for use to protect floors in wet rooms (baths, saunas).

The peculiarity of the solution is that it forms a moisture-repellent film on the treated surface. Belinka Interier Sauna, when painted, does not change the pattern of the wood structure, in fact, it is a varnish.

It is important to protect not only the visible parts of the floorboards, but also hidden wooden elements - logs, beams. For this is used chemical composition PINOTEX IMPRA is a solution for protecting wood from penetrating moisture.

It contains biocides that prevent mold and blue staining. It is not recommended for use in residential premises, as well as for structures exposed to direct sunlight.

Pirilax-Lux has water-repellent, fire-fighting and insecticidal properties.

Bark beetle - the name of the insect speaks for itself: it feeds on the bark of a tree. If a material with the presence of bark (logs, support beams) is used during construction, pests can settle in it.

About the presence of carpenter beetle larvae in wooden floor evidence of the creak of the floorboards. The pest requires urgent action, since the larvae are able to turn any wood into dust in a short time.

The woodworm also brings great harm. Its feature is omnivorousness. Sometimes it is possible to get rid of it only if you burn the spoiled wood.

When purchasing building materials, you need to pay attention to the presence of passages formed by larvae.

Modern methods of drying workpieces in high-temperature ovens can ideally protect wood from pest damage.

Prevention measures

Belinka Impregnant is also a versatile agent against fungal mildew and insect pests. It can be used for indoor work.

We have presented a brief overview of methods and means of protecting a wooden floor. It is not at all difficult to do this, and your grandchildren, who inherited it, will enjoy the result of the work. cozy home in perfect condition.

There are many alternatives to natural materials. Despite this, floors continue to be made of wood, and not only in wooden houses. There is an explanation for this: a wooden floor has a number of unique properties, such as low thermal conductivity, good sound insulation and aesthetic appeal. In addition, this material is environmentally friendly and harmless to humans. However, in order for such a floor to serve as long as possible, it is necessary to take a number of measures to protect it from the harmful effects of high humidity in the room. Waterproofing of the wooden floor is required. It doesn't matter what exactly it is made of: fiberboard, chipboard or OSB: any porous structure absorbs moisture, which subsequently leads to the formation of cracks, warpage and decay of wood. To prevent this, it is necessary to apply a continuous protective layer with an approach to a vertical surface - up to 30 cm. We will tell in more detail how and how this is done.

Waterproofing the floor in wooden house, as in the case built from any other material, can be performed different methods: there are lining, impregnating, painting and casting.

Okleechnaya involves the creation of a continuous multi-layer carpet from bituminous, bitumen-polymer or polymer materials. Before laying the first layer, the base ( concrete slab slabs or subfloors) must be cleaned, leveled and primed. In the case of plank or log floors - fire retardants and antiseptic agents... After that, sheets of waterproofing material are laid. If it is not possible to use a single piece, different parts are laid with an overlap of at least 100 mm. The joints must be glued. The next layer is placed on top of the mastic, which is used to process the previously laid material. The type of mastic is selected depending on the waterproofing agent used.

Waterproofing of the floor using a foil-coated material

After such preparation, you can mount a finishing wood floor, not forgetting that it is also necessary to treat its back side with protective agents. The last stage is application protective coating on the front surface of the floor.

It is easier to perform paint waterproofing: for this, it is necessary to apply polymer or bitumen varnish on the base in several layers. It will fill in all cracks and pores, preventing moisture from penetrating into the structure of the material. But this method has some disadvantages: when the floor of the lower level freezes, the protective layer is covered with a grid of cracks. The service life of the paint waterproofing is not long: even under normal operating conditions, it must be renewed every 5-7 years.

Painting waterproofing reliably clogs the pores of natural materials

Impregnation insulation consists in the treatment of a rough wood floor with water-repellent substances popular for many years - tar, drying oil or relatively new ones, created on the basis of acrylic, silicone or other synthetic binders. The substrate must be absolutely dry and clean before applying them.

Cast waterproofing is the most expensive and difficult to implement. But its effectiveness deserves to think about protecting a wooden floor in this way. The technology for its creation is as follows. To begin with, the base is cleaned and ground, after which the deposited or glued roll material is laid, which is suitable for hydroglass, roofing material, etc. Then prepares cement-sand mortar, to which liquid glass is added: a screed is made with this solution. The thickness of the screed is at least 5 cm, while a metal mesh is placed in it for strength. After drying, the resulting surface is covered with a waterproofing mixture made on the basis of waterproof cement. Additional strength to the base is given to such a base using a special substrate, on top of which a wooden floor is mounted.

Cast waterproofing is the maximum effective way wood floor protection

This is important for a wooden house

A house made of timber or logs can be built on any foundation, except for a columnar one. For the device of the floor, horizontal logs are first laid, which are made from a bar. After that, a rough floor is built, and then a finishing one. To prevent the boards from becoming unusable and to serve for a long time, the following must be provided:

1. Between a concrete (brick) foundation and a log (bar) lower crown horizontal waterproofing is required, which is performed using roll materials and bitumen mastic.
2. In places of support of the lag, waterproofing is also arranged.
3. To prevent condensation from accumulating in the underground room (for houses without a basement), it is necessary to provide ventilation holes in the opposite walls.

It is worth paying attention to the quality of the insulation of the walls of the house from the foundation: the capillary rise of liquid along the walls will inevitably cause the spread of dampness to a significant part of the structure of the house, including the floor. More on this in the next section.

For waterproofing, materials in rolls are used, which are fixed with cold and hot mastics

How to protect the foundation from moisture

A concrete or brick foundation from the outside is covered with film and liquid waterproofing materials. A waterproofing device is also provided on the inside. Thanks to this, the basement in the house will remain dry even during spring floods, which means that the source of moisture, which is a threat, will disappear. wooden floor.

Protection of the foundation from groundwater is an important condition for a good insulation of a wooden floor from the damaging effects of moisture. Protecting the base of a building from groundwater is called anti-filtration waterproofing. It is especially important in the case of a basement in the house, as well as in the case of building a house in an area with high humidity and high groundwater levels, which provide a significant retaining load. There is also such a term as anti-corrosion insulation: it is necessarily provided for buildings of any type. It can be used for filling, impregnating, gluing, mounted and plastering: it all depends on the type of material used. Each of these methods effectively protects the foundation from the inside.

Foundation protection roll materials – necessary condition to prevent moisture penetration into the wood floor structure

Protection of modern wood flooring

Parquet board and the laminate already have a protective layer on the face. The manufacturers also provide waterproofing on the underside, but the end sides of these materials are usually less protected (the only exceptions are materials whose locking devices have a silicone coating). Therefore, in order to protect flooring, between it and the base, a waterproofing material based on a polyethylene film must be laid. Such insulation must be monolithic. In the case of laying it in several strips, an overlap and additional sealing with adhesive tape are provided.

It is necessary to lay the film (at least 50 microns thick) so that its edges overlap the walls by at least 100 mm. Excess material is carefully trimmed after installation of the skirting board.

For waterproofing a wooden floor, ordinary roofing material or special glued moisture insulation is suitable

Floor waterproofing on logs

If the structure of the house does not allow waterproofing the horizontal surface, and the floor is mounted directly above the ground, special support posts are constructed for laying the logs. They can be brick, monolithic reinforced concrete or metal pipesfilled with concrete. In order for the dampness not to be transferred to the lags, pieces of roofing material, polyethylene or roofing felts are laid on top of these posts. Better - in several layers, while the area of \u200b\u200bsuch insulation should be larger than the contact area between the supports and the lags.

The end ends of the lag, hiding in the material of the walls, are wrapped in roofing material from all sides. Lags are arranged only from bars that are well dried and treated with antiseptic agents. Planking of wooden floors is carried out only in dry weather and freezing temperatures. Otherwise, the boards may swell, which will lead to warping and cracking.

A moisture barrier is installed between the logs and the wooden floor

Before laying the floor, the boards are treated with polymer or bitumen varnish. Previously, drying oil or used engine oil was used for this. However, modern means are more reliable: bituminous varnish, for example, completely covers the wood, and during seasonal changes in its volume it also expands or contracts. Such a product is applied very easily: for this, flute brushes, rollers and spray guns are used. The hydraulic protection arranged in this way also performs the heat-insulating function. In addition, this impregnation gives the material additional mechanical strength.

To make the wooden floor last as long as possible, take care of its protection from the harmful effects of moisture

A wooden floor is very beautiful and practical, but it needs reliable protection. In order for it to serve as long as possible and maintain an attractive appearance, you should seek the help of specialists: they will select the most acceptable method for processing the material, perform the work efficiently and quickly.

When it comes to building a private house, the second most important issue after the foundation is the need to isolate the floor of the first floor from moisture that can penetrate from the base of the floor. Especially when you consider that the most affordable and comfortable floor covering is wood - environmentally friendly, beautiful, warm, but highly susceptible to the destructive effects of moisture.

As a result, after a few years, the wooden floor of the first floor can begin to rot and decompose.

Therefore, the main conditions for its comfortable operation are as follows:

• mandatory processing of the wooden floor elements themselves with protective compounds;
• a high-quality waterproofing device designed to protect the floor from the effects of soil moisture.

Many people believe that it is enough to simply arrange a cement screed, on which the logs are then mounted. And this ensures that the floor is protected from moisture. Unfortunately, this is not the case. And and cement strainer perfectly conduct moisture with little or no harm to themselves. But the tree, not additionally protected, absorbs it like a sponge.

Without exception, all elements of a wooden floor must be pre-treated with moisture-proof compounds. They penetrate into the structure of the tree, making it impervious to water.

If you bought an untreated one, you will have to process it yourself with a special tool. Usually these are complex impregnations that protect the wood not only from moisture, but also from mold, mildew and insects.

They are divided into two types:

• film-forming - require periodic processing (once every 5 - 6 years);
• penetrating - form a reliable barrier to moisture.

Better to use the second impregnation option. The composition is applied with a spray gun or simply with a brush. It penetrates well into the structure of the tree and dries completely within two to three hours. For reliability, it is better to carry out the processing several times.

Having protected the floor from direct exposure to moisture, it is equally important to ensure that its construction does not allow it, even hypothetically, to have a direct effect on the floor elements. To do this, use some constructive methods for preparing the subfloor.

Even if you are building a house on an absolutely dry area with deep groundwater, the foundation under the house must be prepared in good faith.

Preparation consists in the installation of a three-layer base:

• The first and lowest layer is compacted soil, which is tamped using hand tampers or using special equipment.
• The second layer is sand, laid with a layer of about 10 cm (if the soil on the site is dry, if it is heaving, then the sand cushion should have a thickness of 20 cm). It is itself a good waterproofing.
• The last layer of preparation is a cushion of crushed stone, covered with a layer of 10 cm and carefully compacted.

Performing this preparation creates an obstacle for moisture and does not allow it to rise to the higher layers of the future floor structure.

The ramming of the layers makes the subfloor more durable. If the groundwater is located at a depth of 2 m or more, then expanded clay can be used instead of crushed stone, which has good thermal insulation characteristics.

The further order of work depends on which floor structure you have chosen.

Most often, the floor of the first floor is performed in one of the following ways:

• floor on support posts;
• floor on a concrete base.

Measures for waterproofing the floor laid on support posts

For all-round protection of wooden logs and floors:

• Pits are dug inside the assembled basement of the future house at a distance of 0.8-1.5 m. This is the meta of the location of future pillars. At the bottom of each pit, a sand-crushed stone pillow is arranged. A plastic wrap is laid on top of it, which should go to the surface of the soil by 25 - 30 cm.
• Support posts are laid out from or cast from concrete. After the mortar has dried or the concrete has hardened, they are treated with a special waterproofing mastic.
• The entire surface of the underground is lined with roofing material so that it goes 20 cm onto the walls of the basement. Roofing material sheets are connected with mastic. It is better not to cut the material in the corners, but fold it neatly into folds. Thus, something like an airtight container is formed in the subfield.
• The upper sections of the columns are lubricated with bitumen and pieces of roofing material are glued to it, designed to protect the basement beams or logs from contact with brick or concrete.

• Floor beams are laid on the posts.
• Each beam is equipped with two cranial bars for the sub-floor.
• Mount the sub-floor. Usually these are boards of low quality or even a slab. But it is worth remembering that the wane must be cleaned, and the boards themselves must be treated with waterproofing impregnation.
• Often, the surface of the subfloor, especially if it is crevice, is coated with a clay solution. It is an additional waterproofing layer.
• Logs are mounted on the beams.
• Then the entire subfloor is covered with roofing material or foil so that the joints overlap by 10-15 cm. The joints are fixed with tape.
• If floor insulation is provided, then a heater is laid on the film, which is covered from above with a vapor barrier film fixed on the logs.
• On the lags, a floor is mounted from a prepared and processed floorboard.

Compliance with the given work technology allows you to obtain a triple protection of the floor from moisture: roofing material on the ground, clay on rough floor, foil and vapor barrier directly under the flooring.

If you decide to use a concrete screed as the base of the floor, then proceed as follows:

• A rolled waterproofing material (most often - roofing material) is laid on the prepared soil base so that it goes to the walls of the basement by 10 - 15 cm. If the base is wet, then the material can be laid in 2 layers - along and across the house.
• Roofing material sheets are connected together using heated bitumen mastic, achieving maximum tightness.
• Insulation is mounted on roofing material - extruded PPS or expanded clay.
• On top of the insulation, a layer of waterproofing is again laid - a polyethylene film. She is also brought to the walls.
• Next, a reinforcing mesh is mounted along it and beacons are installed.
• The lighthouses are poured and leveled with a layer concrete screed and wait for it to dry completely.

Sometimes, for reliability, two layers of screed are made, separated by a layer of waterproofing and. The surface of the screed is strengthened with reinforcing, impregnating and waterproofing compounds, which create a strong moisture-protective film on the surface. For this, asphalt concrete, bitumen, liquid rubber, bentonite are used. After that, you can proceed with the installation wooden structures floor.

Thus, the protection of a wooden floor from moisture is not only and not so much in the processing of the wood itself, but is a whole complex of measures, the implementation of which guarantees multilayer waterproofing of the future floor.